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FYI Electronic Throttle Actuator (ETA) Rebuild

gerryvz

Site Honcho
Staff member
If you need to get your ETA rebuilt (and if you have not previously done so, or have not installed a newer replacement ETA, you DO need to get it rebuilt), an excellent resource to do this is Don Roden, owner of RFC Electronics in Hillsboro, Alabama. Don is hyper-knowledgable about ETAs, is a former Mercedes-Benz technician, and has very quick turnaround times on ETA rebuilds.

He goes through and tests all components and functions of the ETA, and test-drives every ETA that he repairs with the ETA on a car. His turnaround time is just 2-3 days after he receives an ETA (mine from shipping to him to receipt back in my hands was exactly one week, including two days for a weekend). Price is reasonable considering you get a fully cleaned and ready-to-install ETA with intake manifold gasket installed.

Don is happy to discuss what he found and repaired with your ETA. You could not talk to a nicer, more gracious man.

I wholeheartedly recommend him for all ETA-related repairs and questions.

Don Roden
RFC Electronics
(256) 974-9387
(844) 227-8879 FAX
6755 County Road 217
Hillsboro, AL 35643

droden@hiwaay.net

53949065-6613-4DB0-9AE4-0959C05E7301.jpeg 917EF374-D531-41A9-A01B-054EC8CE2F6F.jpeg
 
If you need to get your ETA rebuilt (and if you have not previously done so, or have not installed a newer replacement ETA, you DO need to get it rebuilt), an excellent resource to do this is Don Roden, owner of RFC Electronics in Hillsboro, Alabama. Don is hyper-knowledgable about ETAs, is a former Mercedes-Benz technician, and has very quick turnaround times on ETA rebuilds.

He goes through and tests all components and functions of the ETA, and test-drives every ETA that he repairs with the ETA on a car. His turnaround time is just 2-3 days after he receives an ETA (mine from shipping to him to receipt back in my hands was exactly one week, including two days for a weekend). Price is reasonable considering you get a fully cleaned and ready-to-install ETA with intake manifold gasket installed.

Don is happy to discuss what he found and repaired with your ETA. You could not talk to a nicer, more gracious man.

I wholeheartedly recommend him for all ETA-related repairs and questions.

Don Roden
RFC Electronics
(256) 974-9387
(844) 227-8879 FAX
6755 County Road 217
Hillsboro, AL 35643

droden@hiwaay.net

View attachment 101353 View attachment 101352
Gerry, do you know what he charges for the rebuild in US$?
 
Another in support for Don Roden here on ETA rebuilds. He is just up the road from me here in Birmingham and has a strong reputation of doing solid work. Doesn't hurt that his turn around times are quick and his prices very reasonable also. Will be building my ETA on the E 420 soon.
 
I'm about to do this job - pull the ETA and send it to Don. Does anyone have a list of parts with part numbers which should be replaced? Emerydc8's howto post refers to hoses (plural)? What about the rubber collar on top? Any thing else?

TIA!
 
@Allgonquin This is what I replaced while removing my ETA:

  • 119-141-12-80 gasket under eta
  • 119-141-01-67 rubber collar
  • 119-094-71-82 hose #137
  • 119-094-55-82 hose #140
  • 119-094-44-82 hose #143
  • 102-094-02-12 connector 2psc #116
I would also replace everything else from this diagram if nothing was replaced before, you can skip hose clamps if they are in good condition.

Zrzut ekranu 2023-01-17 163457.png
 
Last edited:
Full list of part numbers for the PCV tubes, if needed, are at the thread linked below:

 
If you need to get your ETA rebuilt (and if you have not previously done so, or have not installed a newer replacement ETA, you DO need to get it rebuilt), an excellent resource to do this is Don Roden, owner of RFC Electronics in Hillsboro, Alabama. Don is hyper-knowledgable about ETAs, is a former Mercedes-Benz technician, and has very quick turnaround times on ETA rebuilds.

He goes through and tests all components and functions of the ETA, and test-drives every ETA that he repairs with the ETA on a car. His turnaround time is just 2-3 days after he receives an ETA (mine from shipping to him to receipt back in my hands was exactly one week, including two days for a weekend). Price is reasonable considering you get a fully cleaned and ready-to-install ETA with intake manifold gasket installed.

Don is happy to discuss what he found and repaired with your ETA. You could not talk to a nicer, more gracious man.

I wholeheartedly recommend him for all ETA-related repairs and questions.

Don Roden
RFC Electronics
(256) 974-9387
(844) 227-8879 FAX
6755 County Road 217
Hillsboro, AL 35643

droden@hiwaay.net

View attachment 101353 View attachment 101352

Thanks! I meant to send my ETA to Don Roden 2 years ago but the pandemic hit and then everything went haywire! I just connected with Don again over the phone, and shipped out a w140 ETA with a 2008 label (that I got from a junkyard) for rebuilding by him, and to shorten the connector to be optimal with a 500E.

When I do the top-end rebuild, I will take off my original ETA and ship that to Don as well.
 
I spent days to figure out what cause to ASR failure

I changed the ETA unit with rebuilt one that wirks in a diffrent car, changed the ASR unit and nothing

The code on pin6 is 30…. Any idea..?

When I connect diffrent good ASR it doesnt move when I press the throttle…

Please give some clues….
 
I spent days to figure out what cause to ASR failure

I changed the ETA unit with rebuilt one that wirks in a diffrent car, changed the ASR unit and nothing

The code on pin6 is 30…. Any idea..?

When I connect diffrent good ASR it doesnt move when I press the throttle…

Please give some clues….
Changed the brake switch and transmission switch… nothing
 
When I do the top-end rebuild, I will take off my original ETA and ship that to Don as well.
Have you started the top end rebuild yet? There is so much hidden headlight bucket foam just waiting to be replaced…..dirt and schmutz around the coils to be cleaned…..sand and grime in the Vee below the intake manifold to be vacuumed out…..
 
Have you started the top end rebuild yet? There is so much hidden headlight bucket foam just waiting to be replaced…..dirt and schmutz around the coils to be cleaned…..sand and grime in the Vee below the intake manifold to be vacuumed out…..
Lol. Not yet, cuz life gets in the way ---- but appreciate you sending over all those paper documents! I am sure I will have read through those 6-8x before mustering the resolve to tackle the job!
 
AFAIK, Don Roden does not rebuild the E-GAS modules. But, he may know of a source, drop him a line and ask. I believe Beckmann may be able to rebuild them, worth asking them as well, but I think the price may be in the $1500 ballpark.

1) Are you certain your E-GAS module is defective or in need of repair? They are not common failures.

2) These are NLA from Mercedes, but the 400E/E420 modules are compatible, and used ones are available on eBay for a few hundred bucks. Or, I have a NOS unit available if you prefer NOS instead of used.

:apl:
 
Dave,
Thanks for the reply. Yes one of the two E-GAS modules I have doesn't function correctly. I have swapped the defective unit back and forth between my two E-500's and the same malfunction occurs.

Some years I purchased a used W140 module from Gerry and it works except for the cruise control.

I've been told that the E-GAS module for the 1994 E500 (part number above) is specific to only the '94 E500's. Agreed?
I'll contact Don Roden as you suggest

Is the NOS unit you have the same part number I noted above? Would you prefer to discuss price over the phone?

Thanks.
TPK
925-766-9504
Alamo, CA
 
Thanks for the reply. Yes one of the two E-GAS modules I have doesn't function correctly. I have swapped the defective unit back and forth between my two E-500's and the same malfunction occurs. Some years I purchased a used W140 module from Gerry and it works except for the cruise control.
AH, got it... good job troubleshooting! (y)



I've been told that the E-GAS module for the 1994 E500 (part number above) is specific to only the '94 E500's. Agreed?
The part number above (124-545-45-32) is specific to the 1993 500E and 1994 E500, USA only. However, the earlier USA-spec modules (for 1991-1992 500E) and also the 400E/E420 are functionally equivalent. Different part numbers, but they work normally in the E500, and cruise control functions also.



I'll contact Don Roden as you suggest
I am curious what Don recommends for E-GAS repair!



Is the NOS unit you have the same part number I noted above? Would you prefer to discuss price over the phone?
No, the NOS unit I have is for an E420, part number 124-545-40-32 with a 2007 manufacture date. I've been using this exact part number in my 1994 E500 with zero issues. Cruise control works normally, etc. You can contact me via private message (click "Start Conversation" from my profile) if you'd like more info.


:cheers2:
 
If you need to get your ETA rebuilt (and if you have not previously done so, or have not installed a newer replacement ETA, you DO need to get it rebuilt), an excellent resource to do this is Don Roden, owner of RFC Electronics in Hillsboro, Alabama. Don is hyper-knowledgable about ETAs, is a former Mercedes-Benz technician, and has very quick turnaround times on ETA rebuilds.

He goes through and tests all components and functions of the ETA, and test-drives every ETA that he repairs with the ETA on a car. His turnaround time is just 2-3 days after he receives an ETA (mine from shipping to him to receipt back in my hands was exactly one week, including two days for a weekend). Price is reasonable considering you get a fully cleaned and ready-to-install ETA with intake manifold gasket installed.

Don is happy to discuss what he found and repaired with your ETA. You could not talk to a nicer, more gracious man.

I wholeheartedly recommend him for all ETA-related repairs and questions.

Don Roden
RFC Electronics
(256) 974-9387
(844) 227-8879 FAX
6755 County Road 217
Hillsboro, AL 35643

droden@hiwaay.net

View attachment 101353 View attachment 101352
Hi Gerry,

After 18 months off the road getting a lot of work done (which I will get around to detail on my owner page soon), I collected my vehicle only to find I too now have the same high idling problem as others.

Per the advice on this thread, today I called Don Roden to see about getting a rebuilt ETA from him. Sadly, Don told me that earlier this year he developed a medical condition that has stopped him working, and that he does not expect to resume his business :-(

I wished him well, and asked him if he had any advice on what to do/anyone else doing ETA rebuilds. He asked me whether my car has ASR (it does), and whether the ASR light was on. I told him it isn't (although it has come on intermittently in the past, which I have attribute to a faulty neutral safety switch on the transmission which is about to be replaced). He told me that, if my idling problem is ETA-related the ASR warning light would be on, and suggested that the idling problem could be due to a faulty e-GAS module. He gave me a part number off the top of his head - 124.565.65.32

I three questions:

1. Is there anyone else doing high quality ETA rebuilds? I think mine is original and want to replace it.
2. What do folks think of Don's advice to check the e-GAS module?
3. If I need a new e-GAS module, does anyone have one for sale, or advice on where to get one?

Cheers,
Russell
 
Oh .... !! That is HORRIBLE news about Don. Losing him as a resource for ETA rebuilds is a big loss for all of us -- whether one has had an ETA rebuilt in the past, or will need one done in the future.

Don's advice to check the E-GAS module is a good one, as it directly controls the ETA. However, we have not had major and common issues with E-GAS modules failing. Although it has and can happen due to age, use, temperature fluctuations, and so forth.

eBay or this forum is probably your best bet to find a used E-GAS module. This site's Wiki has a chart that cross-references E-GAS modules from other models/chassis that will work. It is very common to find W140 E-GAS modules used (due to the number of W140s produced with LH M119 engines), and they will work 100% fine, with the exception of losing the cruise control functionality.

The W124-specific chassis (E500E and 400E420 cars) E-GAS modules are much harder to find, but they are out there.

There are folks here selling E-GAS modules, so you can either put a post in the WANTED sub-forum, or contact certain folks. The @gsxr may have a NOS (new old stock, never used) E-GAS module....by my own faulty memory. I also have several W140 E-GAS modules available for a cheap price, but as said they won't provide the cruise control function, but otherwise are 100% OK to use and work well.

I will write Don a note and put it in the mail to him. This is really sad for all of us.
 
Oh .... !! That is HORRIBLE news about Don. Losing him as a resource for ETA rebuilds is a big loss for all of us -- whether one has had an ETA rebuilt in the past, or will need one done in the future.

Don's advice to check the E-GAS module is a good one, as it directly controls the ETA. However, we have not had major and common issues with E-GAS modules failing. Although it has and can happen due to age, use, temperature fluctuations, and so forth.

eBay or this forum is probably your best bet to find a used E-GAS module. This site's Wiki has a chart that cross-references E-GAS modules from other models/chassis that will work. It is very common to find W140 E-GAS modules used (due to the number of W140s produced with LH M119 engines), and they will work 100% fine, with the exception of losing the cruise control functionality.

The W124-specific chassis (E500E and 400E420 cars) E-GAS modules are much harder to find, but they are out there.

There are folks here selling E-GAS modules, so you can either put a post in the WANTED sub-forum, or contact certain folks. The @gsxr may have a NOS (new old stock, never used) E-GAS module....by my own faulty memory. I also have several W140 E-GAS modules available for a cheap price, but as said they won't provide the cruise control function, but otherwise are 100% OK to use and work well.

I will write Don a note and put it in the mail to him. This is really sad for all of us.
Thanks Gerry. If I need a new E-GAS module I think I'd want to retain cruise control.
 
Thanks Gerry. If I need a new E-GAS module I think I'd want to retain cruise control.
I am happy to send you a W140 E-GAS unit for testing purposes, at my own expense, if it will help you diagnose the situation.

Please send me a private message with your mailing address and I'll go down to the basement parts shelving to confirm that I do in fact have one I can send you.
 
I am happy to send you a W140 E-GAS unit for testing purposes, at my own expense, if it will help you diagnose the situation.

Please send me a private message with your mailing address and I'll go down to the basement parts shelving to confirm that I do in fact have one I can send you.
I am really sorry to report that I don't have any W140 E-GAS units left. Evidently I sold them last year. I thought I remembered having at least two or three. I do have five LH injection computers (3 of them being WOT), two Base Modules, three ASR computers and one, single, solitary W124-specific E-GAS unit. These are basically my spares.

Sorry about the false alarm.
:runexe:
 
On my M104 this squeal appears to come from the ETA itself.... whenever I give throttle it stops, and whenever I let off it squeals again. My ETA has an '04 date code on it. The squeals gets better but only after maybe half hour of driving. My idle is lopey even after brand new plug wires, coils, and plugs. The ETA boot and all vacuum elbows that I know of are new. Doesn't sound like a vacuum leak "hiss". And it isn't one of the pulleys as the sound is no where near it. I put a large PVC pipe to my ear and listened to the area and think perhaps ETA.

Listen here:


Any ideas?
 
Don is done. I am not 100% convinced that Victor replaces all of the needed internal components, nor tests the rebuilds on a real car driving it, like Don did. And Don was a former MB tech, so he was well trained.
That is a bummer. I hope Don, health wise, is still okay. I had two ETAs that I wanted rebuilt. I sent Don one, he rebuilt it and sent it back, and then I was going to send him the second one ….. but ….. too late!
 
Hi everyone - thought I'd reactivate this thread. I still haven't solved my idling problem - still trying to track the problem down with the workshop that looks after my car. Thinking at this stage is that, at heart, it is most likely a need to rebuild the ETA, but current focus is on sorting out vacuum leaks.

However, last week I suddenly lost function of all instruments and the ASR and ABS warning lights came on. Today, the guys at the workshop pulled the e-GAS module and opened it up. The found that there is some corrosion on at least one of the boards - see photos below. After a little cleaning it was reinstalled. My instruments are functioning again, and the ABS and ASR warning lights are not on. Idling problem remains.

The part number they gave me is 124-545-26-32. I'm not sure I wrote that down correctly - will check this tomorrow.

I have three questions:
  1. Has anyone seen this type of corrosion before, and have experience of how to clean the affected boards?
  2. Can anyone please give me details of people that could fix the e-Gas module?
  3. Other than posting a WTB on this site, where else could I go try and find a replacement e-Gas module.


e-Gas 3.jpge-Gas 2.jpge-Gas 1.jpge-Gas 4.jpg
 
Hi everyone - thought I'd reactivate this thread. I still haven't solved my idling problem - still trying to track the problem down with the workshop that looks after my car. Thinking at this stage is that, at heart, it is most likely a need to rebuild the ETA, but current focus is on sorting out vacuum leaks.
If the ETA has not yet been rebuilt, that is most likely the root cause of the idling issues. Do you know the age of the ETA (date code), and if it's original?



However, last week I suddenly lost function of all instruments and the ASR and ABS warning lights came on. Today, the guys at the workshop pulled the e-GAS module and opened it up. The found that there is some corrosion on at least one of the boards - see photos below. After a little cleaning it was reinstalled. My instruments are functioning again, and the ABS and ASR warning lights are not on. Idling problem remains.
The instrument cluster is discrete and completely separated from all engine management systems. If you lost all instruments, that indicates a power supply issue - need to inspect/clean all fuse ends/sockets, check battery terminals, maybe the ignition switch, check fuses in the BM/GM, etc. Check the FSM schematics for the instruments if needed. Loss of instruments will not be related to ETA/E-GAS, but the ABS/ASR lights would come on if the module lost power.



The part number they gave me is 124-545-26-32. I'm not sure I wrote that down correctly - will check this tomorrow.
124-545-26-32 is correct for an early 500E outside of USA. An alternate number would be 124-545-44-32, this is for later 036 but is interchangeable. I don't know why the North American cars have different E-GAS numbers, how they are different, or if these are interchangeable with ROW modules.


I have three questions:
  1. Has anyone seen this type of corrosion before, and have experience of how to clean the affected boards?
  2. Can anyone please give me details of people that could fix the e-Gas module?
  3. Other than posting a WTB on this site, where else could I go try and find a replacement e-Gas module.
1. I haven't seen that before. Not sure how to clean it. Also don't know if it's affecting the E-GAS functionality or if it's strictly cosmetic.
2. VERY few places repair, or claim to repair, E-GAS modules. Beckmann in USA said they could do it, but cost was over $1k last I checked.
3. eBay would be the primary alternate source, just make sure the seller accepts returns, or better yet has tested the unit and guarantees it's functioning correctly. Some eBay sellers claim a module is good/tested when they've done absolutely nothing to check it.

Before shelling out $$$$ for E-GAS repair/replacement, try sourcing one from a 140 chassis as mentioned previously and see if that magically cures all your woes. Once you confirm the E-GAS is actually faulty, then worry about repair/replacement. I have a NOS unit available but it's for North American cars, I'm not certain what the difference is with ROW.

:gsxrepc:
 
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