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OWNER - johan h
- Thread starter johan h
- Start date
Thanks to both of you! It is so nice to work on a car with all inspiring project, knowledge and nice people that this forum is providing!
Welcome in da club!
What can i say...more pics!!!
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?5711-Looking-for-pics-of-this-500E&p=67940#post67940
What spacers? 20 mm?
What can i say...more pics!!!
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?5711-Looking-for-pics-of-this-500E&p=67940#post67940
What spacers? 20 mm?
Great work, Johan! 
The swaybar is supported with rubber bushings, and not kept in a fixed position like a bolted connection. So the swaybar is floating and living its "own life" during driving, hence the transverse position may vary some millimeters. The blade type bracket are also constantly flexing a bit back and forth and endure dynamic forces, so they are exposed to fatigue. However, they rarely fail, so the breakage may relate to the car crash, causing overstress and creating micro cracks. I happen to snap the upper bolt on one of those brackets, so I had to bore out and tap for a larger bolt size. (an image of the swaybar parts enclosed)
I noticed two different German reg.plates on your car, K HD1994 and BA BY111. Are they fake or real?
The swaybar is supported with rubber bushings, and not kept in a fixed position like a bolted connection. So the swaybar is floating and living its "own life" during driving, hence the transverse position may vary some millimeters. The blade type bracket are also constantly flexing a bit back and forth and endure dynamic forces, so they are exposed to fatigue. However, they rarely fail, so the breakage may relate to the car crash, causing overstress and creating micro cracks. I happen to snap the upper bolt on one of those brackets, so I had to bore out and tap for a larger bolt size. (an image of the swaybar parts enclosed)
I noticed two different German reg.plates on your car, K HD1994 and BA BY111. Are they fake or real?
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Great work, Johan!
The swaybar is supported with rubber bushings, and not kept in a fixed position like a bolted connection. So the swaybar is floating and living its "own life" during driving, hence the transverse position may vary some millimeters. The blade type bracket are also constantly flexing a bit back and forth and endure dynamic forces, so they are exposed to fatigue. However, they rarely fail, so the breakage may relate to the car crash, causing overstress and creating micro cracks. I happen to snap the upper bolt on one of those brackets, so I had to bore out and tap for a larger bolt size. (an image of the swaybar parts enclosed)
I noticed two different German reg.plates on your car, K HD1994 and BA BY111. Are they fake or real?
I think it must have with the crash to do too. The swaybar has moved aprox 1.5 cm from the passenger side to the driver side and the bracket to the passengerside has snapped of. I need to get some heat on the bolt to get it loose. I think i will change bushings at the same time.
That is correct Arnt. They are fake but i love those plates
Impressive amount of work you did on your beauty to bring it back to nice shape.
I am glad you put back wipers . I think you should adjust them little bit especially the driver side. I was not able to find out what is the period right position for them but the best way/look for wipers is to be parallel to bumper, ground.
I am glad you put back wipers . I think you should adjust them little bit especially the driver side. I was not able to find out what is the period right position for them but the best way/look for wipers is to be parallel to bumper, ground.
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Hmmmmm. Car porn. Looks very nice! Had a chuckle because of the Taxi sign
I had to order that sign when i saw it. I can no proudly say that the sign is TÜV approved for 210 km/h
Thank you! The car had some luck to get previous owner to fully restore it after the crash and me to get it back to it´s original look. Now it looks exactly like my vision when i started working on it.
I will look into it Roma. I was not quite sure when i mounted them wich was the correct angle of them. I need to look at some original photos to get them as original as possible.
V8 Taxi on Rials- dreams comes true
Just great.
Thanks! I will foliate it to Taxigelb soon... ... no just kidding but it is a tempting thought. Maybe i will try..
Thanks Sherward and Karl! I am glad to take care of it and to save it for the coming generations
I spam you with more pictures later today. Stay tuned..
Yesterday i was driving home from a W124 GTG in Stochkholm with some friends. On the motorway i raced with a car. And with three peoples in the car, suitcases and a loaded toolbox i manage to win over him pretty easy. We waved him goodbye as we passed him and his red face. Short after we hit 240 km/h something went terrible wrong. I heard a loud bang and the car did pulled sideways and was hard to manoeuvre. The first thing i thought of was of course flat tire. Short after, another loud bang occured and i saw some parts flying of the car and up into the air through the rear-view mirror. The car i raced against overtook me and waved back (total shame). I pulled of the motorway and saw that the whole undercarrige had come loose with the result of a enormous amount of air sucked in under it and pulled the inner, plastic fenders against the wheels. They sucked in between the wheels and fenders and was totaly powdered. I am glad we did not crash!!
There were no damages on the car (other than the plastic fenders). Fortunately i bought new ones from Doolar last week. He had cut the one the passenger side but i did quick repair on it and it is now on the car.
The damage:
Quickfix:
Some coolant in the overflowtank. I wil drain it when i replace the hose later:
There were no damages on the car (other than the plastic fenders). Fortunately i bought new ones from Doolar last week. He had cut the one the passenger side but i did quick repair on it and it is now on the car.
The damage:
Quickfix:
Some coolant in the overflowtank. I wil drain it when i replace the hose later:
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Yikes! Does your car have the main engine splash shield installed? If not, that may be partly why the fender liners pushed back at high speed. The liners bolt to the engine splash shield (and the bumper itself) to lock everything together. Make sure to have everything bolted up like it came from the factory!
See photos attached of my USA-spec car... your Euro-spec car will have an engine oil cooler up front in that space ahead of the plastic panel.
See photos attached of my USA-spec car... your Euro-spec car will have an engine oil cooler up front in that space ahead of the plastic panel.
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Wow, that doesn't look good. Reminds of one time I was cruising to the coast in my C6 and a travel trailer tongue jack flew off a vehicle coming at me in the opposite lane. I could see this jack doing endo's coming straight at me at 65 mph. Luckily it came to a stop in the road before it flew through my windshield. But, my front driver's tire ran over it and it found its way into the fender well and tore it to sheds.
On another note, my current car did not have the rear slash shields. I installed a new set and they felt like they were locked in and secure, but the first time I took the car on the freeway they flew right off. Next set will need to be secured with double stick tape or something.
On another note, my current car did not have the rear slash shields. I installed a new set and they felt like they were locked in and secure, but the first time I took the car on the freeway they flew right off. Next set will need to be secured with double stick tape or something.
The rear plastic pieces which snap into the bumper, must physically click into place - you should be able to feel it. Check the bumper "socket" to make sure the retention notches are still intact. If they are not FULLY inserted, they will pop out. After insertion, try to wiggle them out... they should be really solid in there. They are normally a PITA to remove! Extra tape or some other fastening method wouldn't hurt though.
It is best to take a high pressure hose and clean out the slots where the splash shields click into -- that way you are guaranteed of a proper fit. If they do NOT click (you will feel and hear it) they they are not installed correctly. Remove and retry.
If a shield hasn't been in a slot for a while, guaranteed it is going to be full of crud and detritus, so you really MUST clean it out well before re-installing a new splash shield.
If a shield hasn't been in a slot for a while, guaranteed it is going to be full of crud and detritus, so you really MUST clean it out well before re-installing a new splash shield.
Duly noted. Thanks.
Yikes! Does your car have the main engine splash shield installed? If not, that may be partly why the fender liners pushed back at high speed. The liners bolt to the engine splash shield (and the bumper itself) to lock everything together. Make sure to have everything bolted up like it came from the factory!
See photos attached of my USA-spec car... your Euro-spec car will have an engine oil cooler up front in that space ahead of the plastic panel.
Yes Dave the car has the main engine splash shield installed. But the problem was that the small clips/brackets that are pressed into the substructure that within the splashshield is held with screws did collaps because of the air drag on the motorway.
I wan´t to warn you all that this is a thing to check or be very observant to this risk!!
If I understand correctly it was the clips fixed in the crossmember and frame under the engine? However, those clip-nut (#14) will fail after some time use, not so uncommon. They crack or wear out, then the screw comes loose and fall out. Check them regularly, the screw shall be tighten quite well up and stay fixed.
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That is correct Arnt. #14 did collapse and the screw and the whole undercarrige did collapse just becaus of this little detail so make sure you check/replace them in time!
Yes that is quote fast hehe
. The camera is mounted upside down on the windscreen so i don't have to hold it at all. The thing in my ignition is the IR-key.Skickas från min iPhone via Tapatalk
The thing in my ignition is the IR-key
An option that US cars didn't get .
Thanks for the information bing. I did not know that IR-key don´t exists on US cars.
Quite! But they do get a Rear roller Blind, ACC (which most are not a fan of ) and a third brake light as standard.
Rest are US DOT compliant such as those lovely headlamps, knee bolster, side marker lights and the infamous CEL .
I love thos headlamps. Thinking of converting from Euro to US. spec..
So to the misery on the drivers side. The positive thing was that it was not so much parts to unscrew as on the passengerside since most of the part still lies on the freeway 
As Gerryvz mentioned in another thread i also highly recomend that you clean this area from dirt when the inner fenders is of. There was a LOT of dirt there. I will do a more serious clean when the drivingseason is over.
As Gerryvz mentioned in another thread i also highly recomend that you clean this area from dirt when the inner fenders is of. There was a LOT of dirt there. I will do a more serious clean when the drivingseason is over.
And now to the oildrip from my gearbox.. I noticed a oildrip with some smoke when i drive the car harder and when it is warm outside (not so often in Sweden). Gearbox oil
dripping on the exhaust pipe under the car that creates smoke. I tried to change oil, filter, gasket and oilpan to se if it was the oilpan that was leaking and to get right amount
of oil in the gearbox. The dripping still continues and it looks like it comes from the "grille" area. And after a talk with Dave he said it can come either from the from the front seal for the torque converter, or the primary pump O-ring.
So i contacted a guy who builds transmissions for street/racecars and he said he has a lot of parts from Mercedes glory days back then and that he could give me a good price on a rebuild/reseal the gearbox.
The price is 9 900SEK (1095EUR or 1495USD). And for that he will: Take the transmission out of the car, change brakebands, lamella (not quite sure if that is the correct name in english), reseal the box, mount it in the car, new oil, filter and tune it in. I imagine that this is not a complete overhaul but the three things i hope for is: 1. Stop leaking, 2. Start shifting ok and not complain when i want 2-3 gear sometimes and to check the condition of the box by a proffessionall and maybe change other parts that is wornout.
dripping on the exhaust pipe under the car that creates smoke. I tried to change oil, filter, gasket and oilpan to se if it was the oilpan that was leaking and to get right amount
of oil in the gearbox. The dripping still continues and it looks like it comes from the "grille" area. And after a talk with Dave he said it can come either from the from the front seal for the torque converter, or the primary pump O-ring.
So i contacted a guy who builds transmissions for street/racecars and he said he has a lot of parts from Mercedes glory days back then and that he could give me a good price on a rebuild/reseal the gearbox.
The price is 9 900SEK (1095EUR or 1495USD). And for that he will: Take the transmission out of the car, change brakebands, lamella (not quite sure if that is the correct name in english), reseal the box, mount it in the car, new oil, filter and tune it in. I imagine that this is not a complete overhaul but the three things i hope for is: 1. Stop leaking, 2. Start shifting ok and not complain when i want 2-3 gear sometimes and to check the condition of the box by a proffessionall and maybe change other parts that is wornout.
Johan these transmission are very robust and very few things go wrong. We just rebuilt the Red Brabus 6.5 transmission (lasted 105TKM and 15 years under 670NM of torque).
You can source the parts yourself as well follows:
- Clutches. (Large,Medium,Small) ~13
- Reseal kit.
- Filter.
- Oil.
- B1 & B2 Band.
- Valve Modulator & K1 kit (as a bonus)
- Clean the valve body well ! We replaced it with a new unit on the Brabus.
With this you will get a perfect transmission.
You can source the parts yourself as well follows:
- Clutches. (Large,Medium,Small) ~13
- Reseal kit.
- Filter.
- Oil.
- B1 & B2 Band.
- Valve Modulator & K1 kit (as a bonus)
- Clean the valve body well ! We replaced it with a new unit on the Brabus.
With this you will get a perfect transmission.
Thank you for the information Ahmad! It looks very similair to what is included in my transmissionrebuild. I will book it at the shop as soon as possible and next year i WILL PARTICIPATE in the international E500E meeting with no excuses whatsoever!!
And so is the partition panel on the drivers side installed. I hope it will hold together in 200+..
I changed my insurance to a enthusiast insurance today and they valued the car to 19 000EUR/ 25636USD. The most important for me is that they will see the true value of these cars.
I changed my insurance to a enthusiast insurance today and they valued the car to 19 000EUR/ 25636USD. The most important for me is that they will see the true value of these cars.
So to the misery on the drivers side. The positive thing was that it was not so much parts to unscrew as on the passengerside since most of the part still lies on the freeway
As Gerryvz mentioned in another thread i also highly recomend that you clean this area from dirt when the inner fenders is of. There was a LOT of dirt there. I will do a more serious clean when the drivingseason is over.
Johan,
It looks good, I guess you've replaced the plastic nuts with new ones too, they wear out after been taken on & off some times.
Check the ASR accumulator bracket, it often rusted apart due to the prone location, A124 430 01 10
-a-
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Tack för informationen Arnt! The nuts is the same old ones. You are right they will be sloppy and i plan to change them together with the hose to the overflowtank this winter. Maybe it is time to change the
ASR-ackumulator bracket and get some new rustprotection on under. I cannot remember if i need to detach lines to and from the ackumulator to change the brackets? I am not sure what medium is running
trough the ackumulator?
Johan, that same thing happened to me driving VERY fast in my C43 Wheelhouse lining to the wheel. I did go that time without
the undershield, that I will not do again. Did you have your "bellypan mounted? Good luck with the transm. sealing/leak. Roger
the undershield, that I will not do again. Did you have your "bellypan mounted? Good luck with the transm. sealing/leak. Roger
It seems like a strange and common problem that it will collapse in high speeds. The strangest thing was that i had the "bellypan" on it at the time but the brackets that supports the screws just collapsed. I can´t really understand where the air could come in and make it collapse? It should be sealed!
I got a offer from a very skillfull transmissionexpert on taking the transmission out of the car, reseal it, change wearing parts and get a overal status of the transmssion. A complete just leave the key repair for less than 10 000SEK (1105 EUR or 1500 USD). I will do it but i will also test the Omega 917 in it.
Happened to me too ! Left undertray out while testing and looking out for leaks , was on a high speed run about 250 and one fender wall caved in so bad that I had order a new one ! Lesson learned though [emoji13]
So to the bitter end of this summer... It´s time for that expensive garagewinter...
I know the car is stored during the Winter but to be sure i put some asphalt based corrosion coting on. Looks nicer to.
What is better than two Mercedes? Three of course. This lady is insanley slow and i love it. It has now 580 000 km/360 400miles on it and runs greate!
I also bought a MIG-welder with Mison shielding gas. Swedish quality
I have also collected a brand new upper wiringharness from Mercedes-Benz Germany. Stay tuned..
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Thank you Karl!
Finaly i got my upper wiring harness from Germany! Let´s get the beast running again
Some updates: The wiring harness is in the car and it finaly runs again. I hope this solved the problem with bad exhaustemissions and rough idle when warm.Me and a friend also bought a pretty smashed up C43T AMG a couple of Days ago. It has runned 410 000km (254 800miles) and it runs great. We will part this car out
