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722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

Duh_Vinci

Active member
Cheer all!


1995 SL500 project car... 120K miles


Drove perfect for 2 weeks, all new fluids, filters, seals, etc. One day, started to flare up 3-4 , but only when hot. Parked for a week, started driving - cold, beautiful.

When warms up, flares, does not want to upshift. Gradually, flares got to all the gears on the warm car. Basically non-derivable now.


Changed fluid to Type F helped for a few days, but now back to the same flaring again... Cold car shifts fine, once warms up, useless, flare through all the gears, does not want to upshift. Bowden cable adjustment made no difference at all. Im assuming this is not electronically controlled transmission (other than the kick down solenoid)?


Any suggestions as to where to look/try next are greatly appreciated. If I can't get the transmission issue resolved without removing the actual transmission, reluctantly, I will have to part the car out (or sell it as is), which is a shame, quiet engine, AC works, pulls like a freight train!


Regards,
D


P.S. Cold - shifts absolutely fine, first 10 min or so.. Gear changing time to P from any position is about 1 second, to D is instant. No indication that she is tired at all, but only when cold!
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
Cheer all!


1995 SL500 project car... 120K miles


Drove perfect for 2 weeks, all new fluids, filters, seals, etc. One day, started to flare up 3-4 , but only when hot. Parked for a week, started driving - cold, beautiful.

When warms up, flares, does not want to upshift. Gradually, flares got to all the gears on the warm car. Basically non-derivable now.


Changed fluid to Type F helped for a few days, but now back to the same flaring again... Cold car shifts fine, once warms up, useless, flare through all the gears, does not want to upshift. Bowden cable adjustment made no difference at all. Im assuming this is not electronically controlled transmission (other than the kick down solenoid)?


Any suggestions as to where to look/try next are greatly appreciated. If I can't get the transmission issue resolved without removing the actual transmission, reluctantly, I will have to part the car out (or sell it as is), which is a shame, quiet engine, AC works, pulls like a freight train!


Regards,
D


P.S. Cold - shifts absolutely fine, first 10 min or so.. Gear changing time to P from any position is about 1 second, to D is instant. No indication that she is tired at all, but only when cold!
I see no mention of modulator adjustments or a fresh modulator valve. I'd be inclined to start there.

....if you had transmission pressure gauges I'd prolly toss them on JIC pressure is going away utterly Everywhere.

Jono

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Duh_Vinci

Active member
Jono,

I have turned the modulator plastic knob clock wise few times, but that also made no difference. I don't know if I'm doing it this right... This car' modulator unit, looks like this, just all black housing...



Could anyone offer a link or PDF file for adjustment, testing and replacement for this piece please? I don't want to give up on the car, it's a blast to drive, and I had plans for it...

Additionally, when these flares started to happen, I noticed occasional "drop" of something on hot exhaust, almost looked like the kick down solenoid (or something in that area) is leaking. I cleaned everything up, will go back under the car to see where is the leak coming from....

Would blown seals (any of 4) in the kickdown solenoid assembly potentially cause these symptoms as well (by the way of loosing internal pressure)?

Thank you for your time!!!

Regards,
D
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
Jono,

I have turned the modulator plastic knob clock wise few times, but that also made no difference. I don't know if I'm doing it this right... This car' modulator unit, looks like this, just all black housing... Could anyone offer a link or PDF file for adjustment, testing and replacement for this piece please? I don't want to give up on the car, it's a blast to drive, and I had plans for it...

Additionally, when these flares started to happen, I noticed occasional "drop" of something on hot exhaust, almost looked like the kick down solenoid (or something in that area) is leaking. I cleaned everything up, will go back under the car to see where is the leak coming from....

Would blown seals (any of 4) in the kickdown solenoid assembly potentially cause these symptoms as well (by the way of loosing internal pressure)?

Thank you for your time!!!

Regards,
D
That cap shouldn't turn a few times with out modifications...now the T bar underneath will...that said if you were successful in turning clockwise 3 times (9lbs) and no change.....get a new mod valve & cross your fingers.


I'd turn the new mod valve T bar 2X around before you put it in. And if you modify the white cap by grinding off the tabs you can spin in around w/o having to wiggle it off each time which is a pita..




Jono

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maw1124

E500E Enthusiast
Somewhere in here I believe I posted the part number for the AMG mod valves, which have higher pressure. Since you’re getting a new one... at least that’s why I went with the HWA unit. Let me see if I can dig it up.

maw
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
Somewhere in here I believe I posted the part number for the AMG mod valves, which have higher pressure. Since you’re getting a new one... at least that’s why I went with the HWA unit. Let me see if I can dig it up.

maw
Perhaps out the box, but you can turn a stock valve up to the point of it being Really uncomfortable even for track use;)


Do you remember what colour cap/surround it had?

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Duh_Vinci

Active member
That cap shouldn't turn a few times with out modifications...
And indeed are are right! I couldn't find any online step by step directions, so I turned the modulator clockwise until it stopped (now I know this is enough for "fine" adjustment but not enough to make a big difference...) From bit's and pieces I can gather in different posts on line, the actual adjustment is a "Full 360" turn clockwise of the T under the removable cap.

And so I will go back to the car tomorrow, and will try again, and hope I can figure out where the the leak at the tail end of the transmission is coming from. I should have 4 new seals for kickdown solenoid ready for pickup on Tue...

Regards,
D
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
And indeed are are right! I couldn't find any online step by step directions, so I turned the modulator clockwise until it stopped (now I know this is enough for "fine" adjustment but not enough to make a big difference...) From bit's and pieces I can gather in different posts on line, the actual adjustment is a "Full 360" turn clockwise of the T under the removable cap.

And so I will go back to the car tomorrow, and will try again, and hope I can figure out where the the leak at the tail end of the transmission is coming from. I should have 4 new seals for kickdown solenoid ready for pickup on Tue...

Regards,
D
Did you get a new solenoid? I've replaced over 10 in the last 12 months. They are cracking/leaking/failing as they age/live in that rather Warm environment

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Duh_Vinci

Active member
I did Jono, 000 304 27 90, I didn't realize that no seals are included, so I had to order those separately. I can only hope that that is what's leaking at the tail, not the seal of the main shaft. B1 and B2 seals I've already replaced. Sincerely hope that between the Modulator and the kickdown solenoid this "red devil" would be road worthy...

Regards,
D
 

maw1124

E500E Enthusiast
Perhaps out the box, but you can turn a stock valve up to the point of it being Really uncomfortable even for track use;)

Do you remember what colour cap/surround it had?
True. The HWA one is complete overkill in retrospect, but hey, why not? I don't recall what color it was. I seem to remember all white. I don't even recall the orangey part that shows in the pics, but I wasn't there when it was installed. I do recall it had a 140 part number, but I need to dig up the invoice for the complete number. And of course, I'm away from my records. It may take a few days.

:facepalm:

maw
 

Duh_Vinci

Active member
...that said if you were successful in turning clockwise 3 times (9lbs) and no change.....get a new mod valve & cross your fingers...
That sounds like the next step... I did 3 complete turns, 1 at a time, test driving it each time to see if there would be any difference - there was, after 3 full turns, I have 1-3 gears back, with occasional flaring, 4th gear is still doing it's own thing. Replaced the vacuum line and rubber connectors to the modulator and at the manifold while there...

I guess I will order the modulator and will indeed cross my fingers.

Regards,
D
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
That sounds like the next step... I did 3 complete turns, 1 at a time, test driving it each time to see if there would be any difference - there was, after 3 full turns, I have 1-3 gears back, with occasional flaring, 4th gear is still doing it's own thing. Replaced the vacuum line and rubber connectors to the modulator and at the manifold while there...

I guess I will order the modulator and will indeed cross my fingers.

Regards,
D
Well, if it's responding to adjustments I'd say it's still doing Something/working.


Go ahead and dial in 2 more full turns.


I had a similar issue in a 420 some 3 years ago. It took a while for the glaze to work off the clutches from Slipping so much but that trans now lives behind a 5L in said 420 and gets treated very, Very badly...;). Still banging off crisp shifts though!


Glad it's coming together.


Jono

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Duh_Vinci

Active member
Well, if it's responding to adjustments I'd say it's still doing Something/working.


Go ahead and dial in 2 more full turns.


I had a similar issue in a 420 some 3 years ago. It took a while for the glaze to work off the clutches from Slipping so much but that trans now lives behind a 5L in said 420 and gets treated very, Very badly...;). Still banging off crisp shifts though!


Glad it's coming together.


Jono

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Stopped by the dealership after work, ordered the new modulator. Should be here by Fri, just in time for the weekend, I will have some free time to work on it.

BTW, Jono, did you go to UMW in Fredericksburg VA?

Regards,
D
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
they could have it tomorrow, but they put you on a Stock order. Hopefully they aren't charging you more then List!

Sure did...but back when it was still MWC...which I like the ring of far better...UMW just doesn't roll quite the same.
You know fredvegas?

:)

jono
 

Duh_Vinci

Active member
Small world, Fredvegas is a "home" on and off for the past 28 years since we moved to US, certainly remember MWC, had many parties back in the days. Noble Mercedes is no more, now Huber, everything moved around here...

I used to know parts folks back when it was on Rt1 and Rt17 intersection, used to get good discount, everyone is new now, so near retail prices on everything (as long as I need it right away), otherwise I order elsewhere online indeed.

Regards,
D
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
Small world, Fredvegas is a "home" on and off for the past 28 years since we moved to US, certainly remember MWC, had many parties back in the days. Noble Mercedes is no more, now Huber, everything moved around here...

I used to know parts folks back when it was on Rt1 and Rt17 intersection, used to get good discount, everyone is new now, so near retail prices on everything (as long as I need it right away), otherwise I order elsewhere online indeed.

Regards,
D
Had a few there myself....;)

Haven't been back through in a While. I heard Noble had changed hands...although back when I was there driving a 116 280se the dealership was the Last place I'd go for anything..! Did stop in once and new more about the cars on the floor then the salesman...:jono:

What part of town are you located?

Jono

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Duh_Vinci

Active member
The new parts department at times is no better. When I came in to order the modulator, very polite guy takes down the VIN, brings back a print out of parts, and asks if I needed the front modulator (points the diagram) or the rear modulator (points to the same diagram)...

I wasn't aware there were two, so I look at his print out, and I see on the same page the old version of the modulator and the new version ("front" vs. "rear") So I suggest that which one I need, he disappears for a little bit, comes back with the price for correct modulator :doh:

I'm actually now in Locust Grove, "Lake of the Woods", Rt3 west, just few miles before the old Germanna college. If you were in the area now, you would never recognize this place!

Regards,
D
 

Duh_Vinci

Active member
So... Installed new modulator, "kept my fingers crossed", drove great for 20 min, but slowly started to flare up again, eventually started to slip, worse and worse, barely made it home. :doh:


As much as I wanted to save this car, financially it does not make sense for me to spend $3K in transmission while the car still need full respray at $3k and $1K for new soft top and hydraulics rebuild...

Little disappointed, since while learning about this M119, I was able to dial it perfectly, ran great, drove great...I'm going to miss it. Regretfully I will be parting it out, and sure will miss the neverending seamless power of this V8.

I appreciate very much all the tips and pointers, learned much from you 500 folks here!!!

I will consider looking for a later R129 with M119 fitted with 722.6 and sport package to replace this one. For now, shower and off to make a list of parts that I will let go.

Kind regards,
D
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
So... Installed new modulator, "kept my fingers crossed", drove great for 20 min, but slowly started to flare up again, eventually started to slip, worse and worse, barely made it home. :doh:


As much as I wanted to save this car, financially it does not make sense for me to spend $3K in transmission while the car still need full respray at $3k and $1K for new soft top and hydraulics rebuild...

Little disappointed, since while learning about this M119, I was able to dial it perfectly, ran great, drove great...I'm going to miss it. Regretfully I will be parting it out, and sure will miss the neverending seamless power of this V8.

I appreciate very much all the tips and pointers, learned much from you 500 folks here!!!

I will consider looking for a later R129 with M119 fitted with 722.6 and sport package to replace this one. For now, shower and off to make a list of parts that I will let go.

Kind regards,
D
How many turns did you put in the new modulator before you installed it?

I'd be inclined to swap a valve body in if you could find one at the pull a part.

Parting early 129's isn't the most rewarding:-/

But if you do, I'm interested in the over head control panel/ocp is it's in nice shape;)


Jono

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gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
I agree $3k is a lot for a budget car, but how about swapping in a good used box? Or, doing a partial DIY rebuild? Both would be inexpensive options, and the car looks nice enough to give it a try. I wouldn't part that out over a transmission. If you ran into a telephone pole at speed, yeah, but not for a slippy tranny.

EDIT: Or, sell the whole car to Jono! ;)

:runexe:
 

Duh_Vinci

Active member
Jono,

I did turn it up 2 full turns, and when first drove the car off, shifting was very firm. I was really hoping that I'm out of the woods. But now, not only she flares, but slipping very bad. Really non driveable in any gear anymore, not even 1st gear.

Dave,

While I really have to solid skills or a lift to swap the tranny comfortably, I did check all local pick-a-parts and car-pat.com, there is nothing in Virginia from what I can tell.

It is a tough decision to part it, its parked in front of the house, looking at the window, red looks really nice. But, the car is in definite neeeeeed of a full respray, all the clear coat is peeled off, typical flawed red paint of the 90's MB, soft top is ripped, hydraulic cylinders all need rebuild. Will see... I will stop by a friends shop to see what I can get out of him for labor on the swap (if I did find a used piece).

Regards,
D

P.S. Jono, if I decide to let the console go, I'll let you know, but I also have a very nice SL320 with the same interior as the project car, most likely will keep quite few pieces as spare
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
Jono,

I did turn it up 2 full turns, and when first drove the car off, shifting was very firm. I was really hoping that I'm out of the woods. But now, not only she flares, but slipping very bad. Really non driveable in any gear anymore, not even 1st gear.

Dave,

While I really have to solid skills or a lift to swap the tranny comfortably, I did check all local pick-a-parts and car-pat.com, there is nothing in Virginia from what I can tell.

It is a tough decision to part it, its parked in front of the house, looking at the window, red looks really nice. But, the car is in definite neeeeeed of a full respray, all the clear coat is peeled off, typical flawed red paint of the 90's MB, soft top is ripped, hydraulic cylinders all need rebuild. Will see... I will stop by a friends shop to see what I can get out of him for labor on the swap (if I did find a used piece).

Regards,
D

P.S. Jono, if I decide to let the console go, I'll let you know, but I also have a very nice SL320 with the same interior as the project car, most likely will keep quite few pieces as spare
Oh ..lame....well....meh. drop the pan, curious if it's full of clutch material.



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gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
I did, grey looking slurry at the bottom, very very fine slurry... What does the clutch material looks like?
Was it a very thin layer or fine gray powder / swarf, or was it actually enough to create slurry? Different stuff. The fine gray powder on the bottom of the pan (at fluid change time, ~30kmi) is normal. You can also cut open the filter and check for other debris.


EDIT: What model years and bodies 722.3 transmission would fit this R129?
Direct fit is 1993-1995 129.067 only (500SL/SL500). I think you could use any 1992-1995 W124/W140 M119 transmission (400E, 500SEL, etc) if you swap the rear tail housing, which I *think* is the only difference between the R129 and 124/140 trans. I don't know what's involved with swapping the tail housing.

:apl:
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
Was it a very thin layer or fine gray powder / swarf, or was it actually enough to create slurry? Different stuff. The fine gray powder on the bottom of the pan (at fluid change time, ~30kmi) is normal. You can also cut open the filter and check for other debris.



Direct fit is 1993-1995 129.067 only (500SL/SL500). I think you could use any 1992-1995 W124/W140 M119 transmission (400E, 500SEL, etc) if you swap the rear tail housing, which I *think* is the only difference between the R129 and 124/140 trans. I don't know what's involved with swapping the tail housing.

:apl:
Didn't dude service the box just yesterday?

I'm assuming this is New material since the service, no?

I'm sure that 140 box would work, tail housing swap aside.


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gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
Didn't dude service the box just yesterday?

I'm assuming this is New material since the service, no?
That's what I was wondering too! If it's a bunch of gray stuff in a few days... no bueno. Need a timeframe!

:tumble:
 

Duh_Vinci

Active member
Cheers!

Yes, all this material is new... I changed fluid few times since I bought the car, had to replace B1 seal, then B2 seal. The car was neglected last few years, fluid was very low when I towed it home.

This time, this fine slurry is in under 50 miles of driving. And I just changed the filter and gasket too... It's ok, I've accepted the fact that the tranny is done. Now even cold, she can barely move. Going to back her in in Reverse to the side of the house.

I looking at the window, I really like the car



I have to clear out garage, will sell "few" spares I've accumulated over the years, going to try to find a used transmission locally. Don't want to let it die yet.

Regards,
D
 

Duh_Vinci

Active member
Ok, so there are no good used transmissions locally, called everyone, looked everywhere. Verdict: I'm going to try to rebuild this old tire unit myself...

Going Reverse drive the beast into garage and drop the sucka out, will take it apart and then will order the master kit along with all new frictions, metals and new brake bands. I have the time, will give it a try... :jono:

Regards,
D
 

atg

Active member
Ok, so there are no good used transmissions locally, called everyone, looked everywhere. Verdict: I'm going to try to rebuild this old tire unit myself...

Going Reverse drive the beast into garage and drop the sucka out, will take it apart and then will order the master kit along with all new frictions, metals and new brake bands. I have the time, will give it a try... :jono:

Regards,
D
Now that's the spirit! Post some pics for us mere mortals :)

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Klink

postwhore posterchild
Staff member
Ok, so there are no good used transmissions locally, called everyone, looked everywhere. Verdict: I'm going to try to rebuild this old tire unit myself...

Going Reverse drive the beast into garage and drop the sucka out, will take it apart and then will order the master kit along with all new frictions, metals and new brake bands. I have the time, will give it a try... :jono:

Regards,
D
Now that's the spirit!
:jono: :fun: :respekt:
 

Duh_Vinci

Active member
A fellow MB owner offered a very extensive PDF library access to "all things 722.3", along with me watching about 20 hours of various 722.3/4/5 videos of disassembly and reassembly of these units...

So if it goes well, I could proudly wear this:


Actually look forward to doing this :gsxrock:

Regards,
D
 

JC220

Active member
Ok, so there are no good used transmissions locally, called everyone, looked everywhere. Verdict: I'm going to try to rebuild this old tire unit myself...

Going Reverse drive the beast into garage and drop the sucka out, will take it apart and then will order the master kit along with all new frictions, metals and new brake bands. I have the time, will give it a try... :jono:

Regards,
D
Good on you and get after it! :) You will possibly do a better job on your own transmission than a pro shop! Since you will take more care of YOUR rebuild and all of the information is out there in this day and age.


For example when my W140 722.6 transmission barfed oil out like there was no tomorrow I rebuilt it myself here. And I KNOW I have a much better result now than I would have had by farming it out to a specialist whom more than likely would have stripped, swapped the oil pump and put new seals in it only (Which is really as it needed but when apart I went the full haul so as it should last the life of the car!)


Point is – take your time, read the manuals etc several times over before starting and all will be fine – it’s not rocket science either! See if ATSG have a 722.3 manual on the interwebs their stuff is superb. Also - do search Mava's threads on 722.3 rebuilding he is a specialist at that sort of thing and I'm sure he has info out there for 722.3 also.

I really am keen to see pics of your rebuild if you could share them on the board! May tackle a 722.3 myself at some stage but only when one of them gives trouble which hopefully will be quite some time yet
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
I think the fellow MB owner's "all things 722.x" included the ATSG manual. Most of the same stuff is in the transmission directory on W124performance.com as well.

Gerry, when is your uncle Kent going to sell a DIY 722.3 rebuild kit with how-to manual and video series?

:stickpoke:
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
I think the fellow MB owner's "all things 722.x" included the ATSG manual. Most of the same stuff is in the transmission directory on W124performance.com as well.

Gerry, when is your uncle Kent going to sell a DIY 722.3 rebuild kit with how-to manual and video series?
If anyone ever endeavors down this path and wants to pick up a set of our HD Kevlar bands (exchange) lemme know...I just did a bunch and have sets on the shelf currently:)


Jono

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gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
If anyone ever endeavors down this path and wants to pick up a set of our HD Kevlar bands (exchange) lemme know...I just did a bunch and have sets on the shelf currently:)
Oooo! Tell us more... which band(s)? Any Kevlar clutches available too?

:apl:
 

Duh_Vinci

Active member
Joe,

Great job! I know its a lot of work, and seem rather overwhelming, but with time and patience, I think it is a doable project. And Martin (MAVA) indeed had serious encouragement that played a big role in me taking up this project! So between his links to the literature and videos, and as Dave pointed out W124performance.com I should be able to make it happen. This is not a daily driver, and I have time to work on it with out being pressed for deadline, otherwise I may have chosen the alternate route.

For now, organizing the garage, making shelves for storage so I can have all the space I need and clean organized environment. Going to buy the parts washer cart from our friends at Chinafreight, dolly and the work cart too... Fun!

Jono,

Once I take that thing apart, and feel comfortable with what I'm doing, I may have to reach out to you for those HDs

Regards,
D
 

jhodg5ck

"Nit-Picky and, Bitter Mechanic"
Oooo! Tell us more... which band(s)? Any Kevlar clutches available too?

:apl:
Clutches no...I did them for a while but the material is thicker then stock and it made getting my clearances Really difficult....

Both brake bands, I know they're good up to 300+ degrees!

Jono

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Duh_Vinci

Active member
Well, the dead weight is out of the car:



Gerry's thread https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5675 is extremely helpful on removing this 722.364 out, about 90% so huge thanks for visual documentation. I did have to remove the driver's side downpipe/crossover unit since in this car it's before the front flex disc.

It took entire afternoon, if I was to do it again, I'd spread work over few days, but I need a day off tomorrow...Tomorrow going to organize garage, clear out the countertop for rebuild and start making list of things that I need.

Regards,
D
 
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Trazique

E500E Newbie
Hello Duh_Vinci...

Sorry to hear about your 722.3 experience.. i don't remember the technical terms for the parts.

Your issue is one of the drums in your box where the shaft goes through it has two teflon's rings.

They are supposed to form a seal between the shaft and the drum. To allow for maximum pressure.

While the fluid is cold shifting is no problem, when temp rises it flares or slips... Ask me how I know?

Your thread gave me nightmarish flashbacks.
If you care to, you can disassemble the box, depending on the gear remove that drum, stick your finger in the hole and feel for grooves where the Teflon seals created.

I just signed up on this forum today and saw your post.. wish I had done so sooner. Good luck man.
 

Duh_Vinci

Active member
Cheers Trazique!

Thanks for chiming in, appreciate the feedback indeed! You must be referring to x2 teflon rings fitted on to the stator (diagram https://www.wittrans.com/img/diagrams/54/54.jpg ) These do look worn, luckily, K1 drum has no damage, not on the outside nor on the inside, so I'm quite happy. Full tear down in process, about half way through...

B3 steels acually look very clean, no marks, no burns




Frictions on B3 however are done indeed, chunks missing





B1 band is done, all cracks





And while K1 drum itself has not damage, inside, need all new guts indeed, steels have burn marks and scrapes





So, this is kinda enjoyable, since I'm in no rush, doing everything one piece at a time, studying as much as I can about these 722.3/4/5 units

Master kit is on it's way (less steels, I will pre-measure for clearances before ordering those), clutch press, Lipwizard and Dr. Tranny Assemblee Goo are on the way too. Next order would be the steels and bands, and all the little things, such as new torque converter and tranny plugs with crush washer, transmission mount, flex disc and would probably go ahead and purchase Chinaharbour finest Parts Washer https://www.harborfreight.com/20-gal-parts-washer-with-pump-60769.html since there is much parts to be washed, with $74 with the coupon is not bad. I'm sure I would use it...

Tomorrow hoping to empty the case completely! :gor-gor:

Regards,
D
 
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Duh_Vinci

Active member
And so the case is gutted, most things are disassembled, folks, that is a lot of parts!!!



K2 clutch pack is the worse from all, looks like all need to be replaced, all worn out so bad, the clearance from the top plate to the snap ring 5.5mm :doh:





B2 band is done, black, cracked:




Now, here is the proof that something has gotten VERY HOT inside, B2 band guide:






I'm done for the night, enjoyed taking it apart (indeed very hopeful that I can put it all back together)


Regards,
D
 

Duh_Vinci

Active member
I have pre-measured all the drum assemblies of the clutch pieces for estimated clearances, almost everything else is here, last order placed for the steels:



I'm sure I will need few small extra things here and there, but majority of "needs for rebuild" would be satisfied with this last order.

Regards,
D
 

Duh_Vinci

Active member
A working progress, yesterday was the first time I had a chance to get back to the tranny (not the best way of doing it, amazing how much can one non-experienced person forget in a week's time)

This 722.364, being different slightly at the tail end, had the hardest time figuring out the clearances, and making sure the all the the K2 clutches are engaged and seated well into shaft assembly. And so the shaft was removed and re-installed 4 times until I got it right. I should have taken more pictures for myself while taking it all apart, but I must admit, I was overwhelmed with all the pieces and assumed that I could just watch the videos again a read the manual and be perfectly clear on it - not really... It's a learning curve for sure

Amazing the amount of seals and bits inside of these units:

WP_20181020_22_32_03_Pro by Duh_Vinci, on Flickr

If you guys have any tips, as to the "easy way" sliding the gear assembly into the housing with K2 pre-installed, and getting all the clutches line up, I'm happy to hear!

I ended up removing K2 drum at the end, removing the tension from B2 piston, installed K2 drum onto the shaft with gears (the only way I could make sure that all K2 clutches are seated well) and then, slid the assembly into the housing.

I did replace needle bearings (probably overkill, but looked like these were pinched by the gears when I removed assembly)

WP_20181020_12_21_28_Pro by Duh_Vinci, on Flickr

WP_20181020_12_22_30_Pro by Duh_Vinci, on Flickr

What's amazing to me, these bearings cost less than the some Teflon or rubber seals at the dealer. But had to be ordered from Germany...

Changed the seal in the tail section

WP_20181020_12_33_37_Pro by Duh_Vinci, on Flickr

Half way assembled, turns and spins super smooth

WP_20181020_22_29_25_Pro by Duh_Vinci, on Flickr

Today, I should have most of tranny back together (less the hydro module), still need to clean that one, just a little overwhelming (based on the sheer number of parts in the diagram)

Regards,
D
 
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Duh_Vinci

Active member
Long day, but very productive day for me!


Added little MB magnet to the pan, as added safety


WP_20181103_10_33_43_Pro by Duh_Vinci, on Flickr


Assembled the valve body, mounted to transmission, checked all the fittings, torqued everything down... You know what this means:


WP_20181103_11_06_59_Pro by Duh_Vinci, on Flickr


Baaaam!!!


WP_20181103_19_32_13_Pro by Duh_Vinci, on Flickr




There is still work to be done: I have to attach the feeding lines, driver side downpipe, new flex disc, transmission mount and torque everything to specs, but it is in the car, bolted down!


Never thought I would work on the tranny, what I thought once impossible task - possible!!! Crossing fingers and hoping that the tranny will behave!!!


Regards,
D
 
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