The whole 130 watt 60/55 watt thing was not something I was endorsing, I agree, the laws of physics can't be bypassed. That said, I was the one comparing the bulbs to the PIAAs, which I could do for about a dozen or so bulbs also as I have tried most everything on the market. At first glance the Mtec appears to be just like all the other blue tinted crap bulbs on the market, but these have been given high praise from many on different forums, hence why I was intrieged and bought a pair.gsxr said:Any bulb manufacturer who claims to defy the laws of physics, stating their bulbs put out lumens equal to 130/100 watts while only drawing 60/55 watts rank pretty high on my BS-O-Meter. Even if they do work well, I refuse to support products like that by buying them. The Osram Hypers work as claimed without blatant lies on the packaging... so I give them my business, even if they cost more. The fact they compare themselves to PIAA (the equivalent of Kraco in stereo biz, IMO) also reduces their credibility, at least from my POV.
I also dislike blue tint bulbs, but that's more of a personal preference thing...
Are you referring to these?gsxr said:Rik, the Osram Hypers also blow the Silverstars out of the water. Could be the Mtec might be comparable to them - although I still dislike shady marketing. Maybe one of these days you can try the Hypers, or I can try the Mtec, for some comparison of the two.
Yes - and you are correct, the 85/80 versions need relays. However there is a 70/65 watt version of the Osram Hyper bulbs which work fine with the stock wiring... I have a set in the Euro lights on my '93 300D, with no relays. I don't know what the color rating is, but the globe is clear, not tinted:2phast said:Are you referring to these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OSRAM-H4 ... 06.c0.m245
These would melt my sockets and/or wiring harness without adding additional SPDT relays. They also don't seem to list a Kelvin rating, just a lumens. Do you know what the color rating is?
I've posted this link many times over the years as an example of how to properly convert to HID. Unfortunately, polishing the glass lense is not a simple procedure. The owner did not do this himself, he told me that Bosch did it for him (maybe Hella, don't remember) to the tune of $400.chappardababbar said:
Not possible as the projectors are long, then you have to include space for the burner and igniter. Even mounting them as far inward as possible, to keep the rear waterproof cover in place, you need to modify it to allow space for the igniter.124036-009 said:I think that HID conversion looks ugly... I'd like the projector lens to be back where the original bulbs are, but this will take a lot of space in the engine compartment and get the whole square of the glass lens made clear.
BTW I have a E500 Limited with std euro headlights and I suppose I need a pair of H4, H3 and H1. I'd like yellow light in them, which bulbs make the best yellow light?
Not following this post at all Gerry..what aftermarket HID is a ok compromise??? A burner by itself in a halogen reflector with the halogen flutted lenses is definately not a ok compromise, its a diaster!gerryvz said:I don't believe that from a performance nor aesthetics standpoint, that taking a normal housing and converting it to HID is the way to go. Props to people who do this, but fundamentally it's an unnatural act.
I guess the eBay aftermarket HID replacement units are an OK compromise, but anything HID just plain looks WRONG on the car to me. Sort of like one of those "videogame" headunits. Out of place on the car.
If someone REALLY wants to get hardcore, why don't they modify or score the guts of a BMW HID unit with the ring around the edge of it (parking/city light) and adapt that to our cars?!?