• Hi Guest !

    Welcome to the new 500Eboard forum, post-migration to XenForo. Please feel free to do the following:

    1) Explore, click, tweak your settings, enjoy

    2) Check out the new "skins" link at the bottom left of the main page, to change the look and feel (color scheme/graphics) of the forum to your preference

    3) Let me know of any errors you find. I am hard at work in the coming days and weeks to get things tweaked correctly, and I know there are plenty of small tweaks. Feel free to post in the "XenForo Migration" thread anything you find, or have questions about.

HOW TO: Remove/Replace Left Rear Door Cladding & Trim

DerFuror

500E Terminus Illuminatus
I decided to replace a dented piece of metal Garnish Moulding on the rear left door. The WIS Factory Service Manual provides several W124 procedures regarding sedans & coupes, yet nothing truly specific for the 500E. In fact, damage may occur to components if one were to wholeheartedly follow the WIS procedures on the 500E. This thread will provide the process of successfully removing/replacing the 500E rear door cladding & garnish moulding. You can do this job. Familiarize yourself with the pictures & locations of the key components first.

Required Parts:
Left Rear Door Garnish Moulding (EPC Grp 69, SubGrp 060, Item 110 p/n 124 698 15 80)

Reference:
• EPC Group 69 Paneling & Lining, SubGrp 060 Outside Attachment Parts
• WIS/FSM Group 88-800/802 Body Panels & Bumpers

Required Tools:
• Philips head screwdriver
• Body trim removal set
• Snap ring pliers

The dented Garnish Moulding is pictured on top; its new replacement below.

The rear door cladding is held in place by 2 metal screws & 8 white nylon clip assemblies.

1. Open door. Remove metal Screw (Item 128 p/n A 201 990 20 36) located on lower inside handle-end of door. Its mating piece attached to the cladding is Screw Lock (Item 125 p/n A 002 994 65 45).

2. Remove metal Screw (Item 128 p/n A 201 990 20 36) located on mid-level inside hinge-end of door (just below door check-strap). Its mating piece attached to the cladding is Screw Lock (Item 116 p/n A 002 994 75 45).

Observe the underside edge of the door. The cladding extends below the bottom-edge of the door it is attached to. Note the locations of the 4 white nylon lower cladding retaining clips. Knowing the location of these clips will aid in the ease of the cladding removal process.

It is always best to use the proper tools. A set of non-marring (glass-filled nylon) trim removal tools proves invaluable in this type of job.

The lower cladding clips consist of a 2 piece male/female assembly. The male portion is attached to the door (hinge-side Fastener Button Item 134 p/n A 001 988 46 81 & Fastener Buttons Items 131 p/n A 001 988 49 81). The female portion is attached to the cladding. I started the removal process from the door-handle end, working toward the hinge-end.

3. Closely position a trim removal tool on each side of the first lower retaining clip. Apply steady, even pressure to firmly leverage the cladding straight out towards you until you separate the mating portions of the clip. You will have an uneasy feeling that something will break, especially after hearing the noise made as the clip separates (I imagine a clip may break if already damaged or if old & brittle). None of the clips on my ’93 broke during this process. I was pleased to see what good condition they were in. Should replacement parts be required, refer to EPC Sect 69 Paneling & Lining, Subgrp 060 Outside Attachment Parts.

4. Continue this same process to separate the remaining lower cladding clips (Fastener Buttons). This backside cladding view displays the locations of the 4 Fastener Buttons (Item 122 p/n A 001 988 51 81) and the lower & upper Screw Locks.

There are 4 strange-looking upper cladding Holddown Clip assemblies (Item 119 p/n A 124 988 94 78) that are attached to the door-side. The assembly consists of 2 pieces. The white nylon portion mates to corresponding detents in a molded channel on the cladding backside. A metal portion fits vertically through the white nylon portion. The top of this metal portion fits through holes molded within the upper cladding & pivot-locks into the back of the cladding’s metal garnish moulding. Think of this metal trim at the cladding top as a hinge which runs the length of the upper cladding. This thought will aid in its final removal & reinstallation.

5. Using a similar process as with the lower cladding, apply steady, even pressure to firmly leverage the cladding straight out & slightly upwards until you separate the mating portions of the white nylon clip (the sound of this separation is not as loud or unnerving as the lower cladding clips).

6. Continue this same process to separate the remaining upper white nylon clips from the cladding.

At this point the cladding is held only by the metal retaining clips which are fit within holes molded into the cladding directly behind the metal trim. Once again, thinking of the metal trim as a lengthwise hinge, pivot the bottom of the cladding up. As the cladding moves toward a 90 degree position to the door, you will be able to lift & separate the cladding from the metal retaining clips.

That’s it for cladding removal! Move the cladding onto a non-marring working surface (such as a table covered with a mover’s blanket) How does the uncovered portion of the door look?? This is a good time to conscript someone into washing & waxing the newly uncovered portion of the door.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

DerFuror

500E Terminus Illuminatus
Procedure continues...

The Metal Trim Moulding:
The metal trim moulding is attached to the cladding with 5 white nylon retainers called Ornamental Molding Clips (Item 113 p/n 006 988 74 78) which can be unlocked & removed by turning them 90 degrees. Snap ring pliers work ideally for this process.

7. Reverse these processes for re-installation. Marking the mounting clip locations with low-adhesion tape will aid in the reinstallation process (you will know where to align the cladding panel & place your hands when applying pressure to reconnect the mounting clips).

8. Check fit & finish. Remove the tape & go for a ride!
 

Attachments

Last edited:

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
Quick tip: You only need to pop off the lower edge. The upper row of clips can remain attached to the trim panel, and they will slide sideways approx 1 inch and the moulding will come right off the door along with the clips. It is common to have one or more of the (lower) plastic clips break, so don't be surprised if this happens, particularly on the fender pieces which pop off top & bottom (only the door trim slides out on the top edge). Less common is where the back side of the moulding breaks, where the clips are supposed to snap in to... this will require using epoxy to attach the clip to the moulding. BT, DT.

Great pics & writeup, btw! I need to do this same job on the driver's door of two of my cars... same dented trim piece!


:banana1:
 

500AMM

E500E explorer
gsxr said:
Quick tip: You only need to pop off the lower edge. The upper row of clips can remain attached to the trim panel, and they will slide sideways approx 1 inch and the moulding will come right off the door along with the clips.....
Dave,

Just have to add that the front door cladding slides to the rear, but the rear door cladding slides forward. And it is best to keep the specific door closed when doing it - but keep the other door open.

DerFuror/Klaus - great presentation! :bowdown:

-arnt-
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
Arnt, thanks for the extra info! I remembered that the front trim slides back, but I haven't pulled a rear door trim in a while... wasn't sure which direction it went. Now we know!

:banana1:
 

500AMM

E500E explorer
gsxr said:
Arnt, thanks for the extra info! I remembered that the front trim slides back, but I haven't pulled a rear door trim in a while... wasn't sure which direction it went. Now we know!
:banana1:
Yes, a good thing to know. :banghead:

Another thing; the backside on the crome moulding have a thin plastic weather stripping. This can be a bit sticky and when you bend the cladding outwards to get a good grip for the sliding, it get pressed even more against the door. I simply apply some water/soap which penetrates during movement and the cladding easily slides off. This is even more important to do if the doors are just painted and the crome moulding probably are replaced with a new one. ;)

-arnt-
 

S500E

E500E Newbie
Thanks for the detailed write-up. I am looking into doing the same for the front L (driver's) moulding. Just signed up for EPC and found part #: A1246982180 for the one in red circle below. List price is $58! Did I get the correct part number for E500 and does this price seem right? I thought chrome moulding pieces were not that expensive in general. special E500E fender curve = more $$? Thanks.
 

Attachments

DerFuror

500E Terminus Illuminatus
S500E said:
part #: A1246982180 ... List price is $58! ... does this price seem right?
List price is correct, but who wants to pay list price?

$39.68 parts.com

parts.com & trademotion.com (2 of the most important pieces of info I've obtained from this forum (thx 2 GVZ & GSXR))

:banana1:
 

500AMM

E500E explorer
S500E said:
Thanks for the detailed write-up. I am looking into doing the same for the front L (driver's) moulding. Just signed up for EPC and found part #: A1246982180 for the one in red circle below. List price is $58! Did I get the correct part number for E500 and does this price seem right? I thought chrome moulding pieces were not that expensive in general. special E500E fender curve = more $$? Thanks.
Hi.

In case you don't know, these panels don't slide sideways to get them off. You can probably use the tools shown in top of this thread. But if you don't have them, you have to loosen the inner plastic fender to get access to the clips on the backside of the fender.

-arnt-
 

S500E

E500E Newbie
Hi.

In case you don't know it, on this panels it's not any sliding sideways to get them off. You can probably use the tools shown in top of this thread. But if you don't have them, you have to loosen the inner plastic fender to get access to the clips on the backside of the fender.

-arnt-
Thanks arnt for directions. You are talking about these tools? So this F fender chrome moulding can be just "pulled" off using these trim removal tools without having to remove the fender cladding? Thanks.
 

Attachments

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
The thin chrome (stainless steel?) trim DOES NOT PRY OFF. You have to remove the whole moulding piece, then disengage the little plastic clips from the back side, to remove the thin trim strip from the moulding. Detailed photos are above - I recommend reading all of DerFuror's excellent writeup before you touch the car. It will all become clear.

What Arnt meant is that the front fender moulding piece does not slide off sideways at the top, like the door mouldings do... it pops off at both top & bottom. It's not uncommon to break either some of the clips, or worse yet, part of the moulding itself on the back side where the clips attach. BT, DT. I like Arnt's idea about accessing the back side to press the clips out that way; there should be less possibility of damage that way.


:wormhole:
 

S500E

E500E Newbie
gsxr said:
The thin chrome (stainless steel?) trim DOES NOT PRY OFF. You have to remove the whole moulding piece, then disengage the little plastic clips from the back side, to remove the thin trim strip from the moulding. Detailed photos are above - I recommend reading all of DerFuror's excellent writeup before you touch the car. It will all become clear.

What Arnt meant is that the front fender moulding piece does not slide off sideways at the top, like the door mouldings do... it pops off at both top & bottom. It's not uncommon to break either some of the clips, or worse yet, part of the moulding itself on the back side where the clips attach. BT, DT. I like Arnt's idea about accessing the back side to press the clips out that way; there should be less possibility of damage that way.


:wormhole:
Thanks for the clarification. Didn’t think it would just pry off. Will review all steps above.
 

S500E

E500E Newbie
I just received A1246982180 garnish moulding from parts.com. I found this part number from EPC with E500 vin in place, but this part (A1246982180) must be the one for non-E500E W124? This one does not have the curved contour to fit our E500E fender.

Does anyone know the correct part number for E500 Front Left garnish moulding (in red circle below)? Thanks.
 

Attachments

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
You have the correct part... it may need some *slight* tweaking to fit, but that is the proper left front piece... only fits the 124.036 chassis.

:detective:
 

S500E

E500E Newbie
gsxr said:
You have the correct part... it may need some *slight* tweaking to fit, but that is the proper left front piece... only fits the 124.036 chassis.

:detective:
Thanks. Its curvature just looked so different when I put it next to the one on the panel. Will carefully try tweaking to fit.
 

bing

Active member
The thin chrome/garnish moulding on lower cladding fender has come off from one of the retaining clips( can't understand how, but only just noticed it). Unlike Derfuror's and S500E's mine is actually not damaged at all, just needs to be clipped back on, but it can't seem to snap back in place. Can't make out whether the retaining clip is broken since i don't want to pull the strip too much for fear of bending it. With the retaining clips in place, does it just click in or slide in and out?? Sorry to ask but I can't see in Defuror's write up how he actually put the chrome strip back on, though he described how to remove the clips. Does this sound like I may have to remove the cladding also as from the above posts??

Thanks
Bing..
 

DerFuror

500E Terminus Illuminatus
bing said:
Does this sound like I may have to remove the cladding also as from the above posts??
If you haven't resolved your problem yet, post a pic so we can see what the situation looks like. You may have a few options available depending on which molding strip & clip is suspect, but most likely one of the Ornamental Molding Clips (Item 113 p/n 006 988 74 78) has fractured.

This clip can be seen by going back up to the HOW TO Procedure section that begins with "Procedure continues". Cladding removal may be the most precise option since this clip locks the molding strip in place when it is turned 90 degrees. If the clip is broken, you must remove the cladding anyway to replace it. If the clip isn't broken, fight the urge to ham-fist the molding strip back into place. Bad things may happen.
 

bing

Active member
thanks defur, the clip is broken so i'll have to find time to remove the cladding and install a new one. PITA,,since only one is broken, and for a part that only cost 50pence it could be 1hr labor...such as life! :banghead:
 

DerFuror

500E Terminus Illuminatus
Alright...I knew I would be revisiting this HOW-TO because one of the Ornamental Molding Clips (EPC Item 113 p/n 006 988 74 78) was savagely mauled (it could still do its job, but needed replacement). It was probably deformed by someone trying to pry the trim strip off using the WIS procedure verbatim. :oops:

So this time around (as gsxr & 500AMM mentioned) after separating the bottom clips, I opened the driver's door & slid the rear door's cladding panel to the left for a quick dismount. Doing so cuts labor time significantly. I made sure all the upper clips were properly seated, replaced the battered trim clip with new, wiped down the door & replaced the cladding panel within 5 minutes. Easy!

HOW TO:
1. After separating the 4 bottom clips, open the driver's door & then slide the rear door cladding as far as it will go to the left toward the driver's door. Then remove by pulling the cladding straight out away from the rear door & toward you.


Pictured is the battered but still functioning trim clip in need of replacement.

Installing the new trim clip is as simple as inserting into hole & twisting 90 degrees. Done.

IMPORTANT: Make sure the upper cladding clips are securely seated in their proper positions prior to remounting the cladding.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

philnor

E500E Newbie
Thanks to all you guys for the posts. I currently have left front trim on the fender off, addressing rust issues. Rear arch next to door, again removing rust and replacing with metal. The clips are look the same and the part nos will help when ordering from the MB Dealer. The harbour freight tools look good value, but what is harbour freight?

Any one thinking they have a 20 year old Rust Free car might get a shock on looking behind trim panels, also peeling back that strong structural sealer that Porsche or MB applied liberally underneath and around wheel wells. Paint and sealer last on the outside.Not so the sheet metal it is attached to.
 

DerFuror

500E Terminus Illuminatus
The harbour freight tools look good value, but what is harbour freight?
It's a Company located in California that sells inexpensive, mostly crappy, Chinese-made tools...but if you look carefully, you can find some decently-made items...the very same items that other autopart companies sell for many-times the price.

During a Harbor Freight sales promotion (overstocked inventory flush), the trim removal tools can be had for as little as $4-$5. The same items are sold by other on-line sellers for up to $30.:spend:

My trim removal tools have held up very well to the use I regularly put them thru.

As a tool source, HF is an economic alternative for many. I consider most Harbor Freight tools as disposable items, ok for a job you will most likely only do once or twice, but not at all for jobs involving hazard or risk. For demanding jobs, rent the proper factory tool or quality equivalent.
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
Harbor Fright (sic) sells all sorts of craptastic Chinese/Taiwan junk tools. However, many of them are quite good for the money. You need to be careful and figure out what is a good deal and what isn't. But for things like the trim tools, you can't go wrong, especially for five bucks. Derf summed it up very well in the last paragraph of the previous post.

http://www.harborfreight.com/

If you sign up for their email list, you'll get coupons & sale notifications. Their 6-inch digital caliper that frequently goes on sale for $10-$15 is a great deal, btw.

:spend:
 

mistermiata

Member
Hey guys.....broke one of the clips securing the bottom portion of the door lower cladding.....it is the female portion attached to the cladding....trying to find the part # to order a new one from parts.com, but its a little confusing!

Hoping from some help from the experts!
 

Attachments

sheward

Active member
gsxr said:
Their 6-inch digital caliper that frequently goes on sale for $10-$15 is a great deal, btw.
I just purchased one of these last week for $11.95. It even comes with an extra battery.

drew
 

samiam44

Active member
I'm doing the fender trim on my 420 e right now - some additional new comments.

First 3 of the 5 types of clips are available...from Autohausaz. You can save yourself some serious $$. The upper females are $0.49, another was $0.54, and the lower moulding females are $1.14. Too bad they don't have the moulding 006 988 74 78.
Note on the metal trim on the fender(and maybe the same on other pieces). The fwd most retainer has glue applied to it in the metal slot to keep it from moving in the trim. If you are replacing it- this is the one you will most likely break/damage. But if you are centered in the slot and it's rotated 90 degrees already- you can pull the moulding out gently and not damage the trim or the retainer. Did it on my second try correctly.

Pick N Pull really helped me learn these parts- I was always a little afraid of damaging them. They are pretty rugged. Door trim are common with 300/400e's , so you can grab a trim piece if you want at a pick n pull. They charge $0.61/ft.

Michael

Michael
 

AMG5PT4

Member
I just replaced the exact same stainless trim piece on the DS rear door cladding as Der Furor's original post, above, for the exact same reason - door ding in my stainless strip. However, my replacement piece from the Classic Center had a dull stainless appearance vs the polished stainless of the original. Luckily, I had the appropriate materials to complete the job. I used red rouge (4 bar rouge set from Sears) to polish the strip using my Dremel and a small buffing wheel and then used some metal final polish I bought from a Caffeine & Octane GTG also applied with the Dremel.

Results were excellent and the replacement strip looks like the others. When popping loose the lower cladding clips, I used the exact same body panel tools pictured above and used two of the tools flanking each of the lower clips to pry them free of the male piece.

The collective posts noted above are excellent resources to remove the cladding and stainless strip without damaging the cladding/clips/stainless strip. Thanks much.

Al
 

QuintBenz

E500E Newbie
Anyone R&R Rear Fender Trim Pieces

124 690 19 40 / 124 690 87 40
124 690 20 40 / 124 690 88 40

-without- separating the small slots for the trim clips ?
 
Top