• Hi Guest !

    Welcome to the new 500Eboard forum, post-migration to XenForo. Please feel free to do the following:

    1) Explore, click, tweak your settings, enjoy

    2) Check out the new "skins" link at the bottom left of the main page, to change the look and feel (color scheme/graphics) of the forum to your preference

    3) Let me know of any errors you find. I am hard at work in the coming days and weeks to get things tweaked correctly, and I know there are plenty of small tweaks. Feel free to post in the "XenForo Migration" thread anything you find, or have questions about.

HOW-TO: Removing and re-sealing ZF tandem pump (SLS and power steering)

MikeinTampa

Member
Re: Transmission problem -- VERY reluctant to upshift

+1 on this advice. I did remove and reseal the cam advance solenoid as well as the cam lip seal behind the distributor.
I used the MB black sealant instead of the MB (Loctite 574) orange sealant on the solenoid. so far so good.
Doug, did you replace the camshaft seal on the driver's side? I'm in the process of changing the ignition components and I noticed an oil leak at the cam seal which I think may have been causing my rough idle/slight misfire issue. I'm picking up new seals from MB today. Hoping his won't be one of those persistent cam seal leaks due to camshaft surface or something else. Also, did you seal or replace both of the cam solenoids? The passenger side solenoid has oil residue all over the connector and surrounding areas. Thanks.

IMG_1092.JPGIMG_1085.JPG
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
Re: Transmission problem -- VERY reluctant to upshift

Doug, did you replace the camshaft seal on the driver's side? I'm in the process of changing the ignition components and I noticed an oil leak at the cam seal which I think may have been causing my rough idle/slight misfire issue. I'm picking up new seals from MB today. Hoping his won't be one of those persistent cam seal leaks due to camshaft surface or something else. Also, did you seal or replace both of the cam solenoids? The passenger side solenoid has oil residue all over the connector and surrounding areas. Thanks.
The solenoid can leak from the connector area... you can try to add external sealant where the square plastic pops out of the metal housing, otherwise you'd have to either replace them, or do a rebuild as seen in this thread.

:rugby:
 

MikeinTampa

Member
Re: Transmission problem -- VERY reluctant to upshift

The solenoid can leak from the connector area... you can try to add external sealant where the square plastic pops out of the metal housing, otherwise you'd have to either replace them, or do a rebuild as seen in this thread.

:rugby:
I did see that thread Dave. Thanks. I will probably buy a new one soon.
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
Re: Transmission problem -- VERY reluctant to upshift

I did see that thread Dave. Thanks. I will probably buy a new one soon.
If you buy new... make sure to get the right ones. There are 2 different types. The 500E uses the early / expensive solenoids. You can use the late/cheaper ones if you also replace the armature (round thingy that bolts to the center cam adjuster).

:spend:
 

MikeinTampa

Member
Re: Transmission problem -- VERY reluctant to upshift

If you buy new... make sure to get the right ones. There are 2 different types. The 500E uses the early / expensive solenoids. You can use the late/cheaper ones if you also replace the armature (round thingy that bolts to the center cam adjuster).

:spend:
If the original ones are better than I'll probably just buy an original. What is the correct PN? Price? Thanks
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
Re: Transmission problem -- VERY reluctant to upshift

If the original ones are better than I'll probably just buy an original. What is the correct PN? Price? Thanks
The original is PN 104-050-01-77, however it appears this is NLA and has been replaced / superceded to the new style (119-051-01-77), $107 list / $80 Naperville. The old/early version isn't necessarily better.

If you buy the new style (119-051-01-77) you also must replace the armature (111-051-00-43) at the same time, also replacing the stretch bolt (104-990-10-04).

More details in the FSM here:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/119/05-2175.pdf
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
I have a ZF pump and need to replace it. Can I use a LuK pump or does it have to ZF ?
They are interchangeable, but you will need a slightly longer hose between the reservoir and pump for the LuK/Vickers pump.

:pc1:
 

Gmach

E500E Newbie
Thanks. This ZF pump is not a tandem pump. I think I will re-seal it myself but the procedure, so expertly outlined here, is for the tandem pump. Is there a "how to" for the regular non-tandem ZF pump? I can't locate anything on it.
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
The standard (non-tandem) pump procedure is just the rear part of the tandem pump, so it's pretty similar. The FSM procedure covers this very well. Usually the failure is the front shaft seal, which causes a leak, but you have to take apart most of the pump to change it. On the bright side, for the non-tandem pump, you can leave the pump on the car and just remove the front portion & replace the main seal... leaving the rear section bolted to the bracket. Saves a lot of time.

:sawzall:
 

Gmach

E500E Newbie
I can't see where the leak is. Replaced the rubber hose from the reservoir but the bottom of the pump is VERY wet and dripping onto the top of the A/C compressor. I did remove the front pulley but can't see anything really wet there.
What other location could be leaking?
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
I can't see where the leak is. Replaced the rubber hose from the reservoir but the bottom of the pump is VERY wet and dripping onto the top of the A/C compressor. I did remove the front pulley but can't see anything really wet there.
What other location could be leaking?
If it's the front seal, it will be very obvious with the pulley removed (and, the back side of the pulley will be full of PS fluid & dirt). If everything is dry at the front shaft seal, you need to keep looking. Are you certain it is a PS fluid leak, i.e. is the PS fluid level dropping in the reservoir? An engine oil leak from the cam solenoid area (or, valve cover corner) would also drop on the A/C compressor. It would be unusual to have a ZF standard pump leaking from anywhere besides the front seal.

:scratchchin:
 

samiam44

Active member
If it's the front seal, they tend to sling the oil. So the engine facing side of the harmonic balancer will be oily.


M
 

Gmach

E500E Newbie
It's definitely PS fluid. I'll look a little closer. Is there a DIY link to re-seal these.
I was looking at a great one for a tandem pump but can't find it. Is it embedded in this thread?
 

Gmach

E500E Newbie
Re: HOW TO: Removing and re-sealing ZF tandem pump (SLS and power steering)

Be careful with extra-length hoses, there is precious little room for extra hose length. The EPC specifies the correct lengths needed, which are different for ZF and Vickers/LuK pumps.

:mushroom:
Do you have the torque spec. for the nipple pipe that the hose attaches to. The one that screws through the bottom of the reservoir housing and uses an aluminum crush washer?
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member

Gmach

E500E Newbie
Great document...thanks...and yes, that does seem low.
I just replaced the hose with new clamps and reservoir gasket and it is still leaking under there. Hard to tell exactly where with a flashlight and mirror, but it looks like that pipe is leaking. I'll take it all apart again and look for damage to the threads or casting.
Do you know the correct length for the rubber pipe? ZF pump.
I'll cut a new one.... gawd knows I have enough pipe!! :?
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
If you put in the MB pn you will find that the Febi is almost spot on. If you don't have access to MB, then order it online@ mboempats.com or from autohausaz. Don't just use transmission fluid, it isn't the same.
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
Thanks, but wasn't transmission fluid spec. for the early 90's cars?
Dexron II/III ATF was allowed, but not recommended. The OE fluid is preferred and at under $10 per bottle, it's not worth dinking with ATF. Also, the OE fluid is gold-colored, which makes it easier to tell which fluid is leaking if you have a leak down under. With ATF in the PS system, sometimes you can't tell the difference between a PS leak and a leak from one of the trans cooler hoses.

:hornets:
 

Attachments

gerryvz

Site Honcho
Staff member
Definitely best to get the MB fluid. The FEBI fluid is also just fine, it's made by a respected OEM for MB and works perfectly. One of the only FEBI products I'd put in/on my car....

Cheers,
Gerry
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
I ordered 2 bottles of PS and Hyd Fluid since all 3 of my cars use it to replenish shelf stocks. Naperville inadvertently sent me two cans of Pentosin synthetic Hyd. fluid by mistake (gratis). Too bad made it wasn't the coveted Pentosin Blue Brake fluid...
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
anyone only rebuilt the front of the pump without removing it?
thanks
On the .034 (without SLS), yes, a couple of times.

Pretty sure you could do the same with the tandem pump, but if you need to replace any of the hoses, it would make more sense to remove the pump and fix everything right the first time.

:seesaw:
 

RicardoD

Active member
After reading through this thread to identify parts I need for a tandem pump reseal I am not convinced I need the rebuild. My leak is in power steering fluid. And I am taking special note of this comment from Gerry.

Note -- a month or two after you install the short hose, make sure that you re-tighten it as the clamps compress the hose a bit. After a while the compression can cause it to leak/weep a bit, so snugging it down after a period is a good prudent thing to do.
I need to do a careful diagnosis. I may need to simply address reservoir hose only again. Or try and clean up the area and note where the leak is. I am pretty sure I am NOT losing SLS fluid.
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
Ricardo, if you confirm are losing PS fluid and not SLS fluid... the pump may be fine.

Best starting point is cleaning up the pump and surrounding area so it's all dry, and pinpointing the leak source. Anywhere behind and out of the way of the pulley, you can stuff paper towels to help locate the leak.

:detective:
 

RicardoD

Active member
Since I've done this reservoir fix before, and wrote up a How-To on it, I am going to repeat the procedure, clean everything up, and then see what happens.
 
Top