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OWNER nocfn

nocfn

E500E Guru
A very humble thank you, especially considering the awesome company we have in this forum. Soon we can get hood and boot badge back and I can drive it with my sunglasses off!

Kind words, thank you for them indeed.
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
I actually made maybe 1 post on the BW 124 or two and one was a for sale thread. The w126 is more of a glance daily, but not much there anymore as my attentions are elsewhere these days- follow the money, as it were....
 

gerryvz

Site Honcho
Staff member
I guess nocfn's never gotten his ballz busted on the Banzworld 126 forum by the likes of McClare, wilson1010, Doctor Grills or Boondavi over there.
 

7delta

Senior Member
I will say that he gave me a " heads up" in regards to BW forum. I can assume full body protection is needed over there.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
well I will say, I am an animal lover. But for me, and I speak only for myself as an owner of both species, a dog is a toddler for 15 years as far as upkeep and a cat is an independent adult. A dog needs more physical attention and deserves it. For our lifestyle, it is unfair to the animal if we cannot be there. I often take care of neighbors dogs, and enjoy that bond. But I often go away for several days at a time and a dog deserves much more than that.

So, lets get back to car stuff:

I ordered the chromed grille strips this morning from Lionel.
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
Sure am, PO debadged it when he tried to make it look like a sport line. New fenders required, cladding, bumpers, rockers and paint. I have to color correct so I will re spray whole car when we cut into the hood and trunk to restore gunsight upfront and the star in back.
For now, I will drive as is and in the fall, have the work done when cooler and less humid in south Texas.
 
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nocfn

E500E Guru
I received a driver door mirror cover in black that was un-broken for free, was able to remove the Parchment leather off my broken, and recover the new one I received. So now I have the factory piece with 3 tabs and a pin, it sits tightly now. Mine was no pin and no top tab. SO just a pet peeve, but now its correct. (NLA for the piece on the 94 color change)
 
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Roma_500E

Russian_Rocket
Finally you made it ! Car looks mint ! However, you still need a hood star !

Is it just me or you color (fender vs door) a little bit different ?
 

Attachments

nocfn

E500E Guru
No, previous post 117 talk of color correction/matching for fenders, gunsight for the hood and star for trunk. That will happen in the fall, along with the roof going back to 249. Feels like 115F with 90% humidity it's really 97F
 

gerryvz

Site Honcho
Staff member
How much would roughly you say you have into the car now, including purchase price and corrections?

My reason for asking is comparison vs. buying an equivalent car up front with no mods needed?
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
Off top of my head, about 14,500 all in, 11 was purchase. I am not including things that are filters and oil, basic things any car needs. I will tally all receipts at some point and get it all out there.
 

gerryvz

Site Honcho
Staff member
You got all of those parts, fenders and bumper, cladding and paint work for $3,500? Wow that is impressive.
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
You got all of those parts, fenders and bumper, cladding and paint work for $3,500? Wow that is impressive.

OK as promised:

Corrections summary for the 1994 E500 (no labor costs)

1 Head Lamp RS
2 Fenders
2 Fender Cladding
1 Front Bumper
2 Rocker panels
2 Fog Lights
2 Chrome Bumper Inserts
1 Bumper Strip
2 Fender Liners
1 Trunk Star
1 Hood Star
7 Grille Strips
Various assorted trim clips
Paint with corrections

Net Total $3,520.84 (I sold bumper that came from car, and other pieces like cladding and rockers, fender liners etc for ~$425)

Paint was $550 (bumper(s) / bumper strips / front plate delete / fender(s) and correction to follow)

So my Butt Dyno was pretty close!
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
Read some threads tonight on the issues from a loose battery cable, specifically the additional wire on the + cable, since I have an Alpine amp, I have two wires. Anyway the nut was loose on additional wires. Potential issues averted.
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
When I got the car, the light switch did not feel anything like my C126, clicking into each section. I noticed it was more like stubbornly smooth and I had to have precision. Swapped it out this morning at 118k and that was 0630 so it didn't feel like 118F in my garage. There is quite a bit going on with that switch.

Since I had to remove Neg battery cable, I removed both connections and with intent, wire brush treatment to the hardware and terminals, removed battery and tidy up the area. Light dielectric grease and replace.
 

Klink

postwhore posterchild
Staff member
When I got the car, the light switch did not feel anything like my C126, clicking into each section. I noticed it was more like stubbornly smooth and I had to have precision. Swapped it out this morning at 118k and that was 0630 so it didn't feel like 118F in my garage. There is quite a bit going on with that switch.

Since I had to remove Neg battery cable, I removed both connections and with intent, wire brush treatment to the hardware and terminals, removed battery and tidy up the area. Light dielectric grease and replace.
Good move, Louie. A MB headlight switch that does not have hard, defined "click" detents is falling apart inside, and will eventually fail completely. Usually several hours into an eight hour night trip through the middle of nowhere. Pay the same attention to the combination switches noting the feel and availability of the high/low beam functions. If you're high versus low beam switch off starts to become a little intermittent, and/or the switch starts to feel funny, replace it before you lose your headlamps altogether right when you need them the most. This is less common than rotary headlamp switch failure, but I have been finding a little bit more of it over the last several years...
:klink:
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
Combo switch is new in the C126, The .036 clicks as advertised, so she stays. I did pop the end off and give it a good cleaning when I got the car, funny how much gunk gets inside the sealed plastic. In the C126, the insulation began to flake away and fell to the floor, that was reason enough for that change. I used new MB for that.
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
Good move, Louie. A MB headlight switch that does not have hard, defined "click" detents is falling apart inside, and will eventually fail completely. Usually several hours into an eight hour night trip through the middle of nowhere. Pay the same attention to the combination switches noting the feel and availability of the high/low beam functions. If you're high versus low beam switch off starts to become a little intermittent, and/or the switch starts to feel funny, replace it before you lose your headlamps altogether right when you need them the most. This is less common than rotary headlamp switch failure, but I have been finding a little bit more of it over the last several years...
:klink:
Our two most recent 124 purchases both have this symptom, and it's on the list for replacement. Given Klink's very practical warning, I really should make it a higher priority...

:duck:
 

500Eboard

500E Newbie
Good move, Louie. A MB headlight switch that does not have hard, defined "click" detents is falling apart inside, and will eventually fail completely. Usually several hours into an eight hour night trip through the middle of nowhere. Pay the same attention to the combination switches noting the feel and availability of the high/low beam functions. If you're high versus low beam switch off starts to become a little intermittent, and/or the switch starts to feel funny, replace it before you lose your headlamps altogether right when you need them the most. This is less common than rotary headlamp switch failure, but I have been finding a little bit more of it over the last several years...
:klink:
Yes, I used to own a 1995 white E320 wagon that I had to replace the combination switch, which failed. Does happen.
 

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin
Staff member
Yes, I used to own a 1995 white E320 wagon that I had to replace the combination switch, which failed. Does happen.
I think Louis and Klink are referring to the rotary headlight switch, not the combo stalk (wiper/turn signals). The wagon needs the headlight switch replaced. The combo stalk is OK.

:124:
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
Yes I replaced both on the C126, but rotary headlight switch today. Combo switch is good on e500
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
installed NEW Catalytic Converter Rubber Hangers sine one was AWOL and the other looked like petrified sausage. 118,144
 
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nocfn

E500E Guru
Thought car was running a touch warm. Read a few threads, so I decided to have a look and voila! 118,225


Ordered a fresh one



Rebuilt the wires per the How To thread, and also removed the horn and carsophigus per Klink's guidance along with some perforations in the headlamp area to encourage airflow.

the newly installed unit.

Here is what I chose to put in storage


And here is the stop and go traffic proof in the pudding that the resistor belonged in king tuts tomb!

 
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Trae

Active member
Louis,

What were your symptoms before you replaced the resistor?

Temp. around 100 when at stop lights?
 

gerryvz

Site Honcho
Staff member
My car has a small, rubber air tube that is pointing through the black plastic headlight surround that is aimed at the bottom connection of the resistor.

Do all cars not have this tube?
 

Klink

postwhore posterchild
Staff member
My car has a small, rubber air tube that is pointing through the black plastic headlight surround that is aimed at the bottom connection of the resistor.

Do all cars not have this tube?
That tube is on euro cars, and USA facelift cars with Eurostyle headlights. It is connected to the headlight housing. Its function is to supply an atmospheric vent to the inside of the headlight housing. It is routed to the outside of the air scoop assembly so that the headlamp housing is never subject to ram air pressure when the vehicle is moving, or engine intake ststem/ crankcase vapor emissions when the hot engine is switched off. Either one can cause condensation and/or contamination to enter the headlight housings, thereby fouling the lenses and reflectors. All cars that have euro style headlight housings residing in the ram air path must have those ventilation tubes. It is simply coincidence that the tube happens to line up with the resistor. It is the pre-existing cutaway, and/or hole for the vent tube that I am suggesting opening up and extending to allow some ram air to ventilate the resistor. I put that and some photos in a previous post dealing with the resistors. I'll find it later and point it out. Anyway, all cars with Eurostyle lights either came with those tubes installed, or needed to have them installed upon conversion to euro lights.
:klink:
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
Mine was missing but I added one, and also perforated the corner about the size of a quarter for a bit more
 

gerryvz

Site Honcho
Staff member
That tube is on euro cars, and USA facelift cars with Eurostyle headlights. It is connected to the headlight housing. Its function is to supply an atmospheric vent to the inside of the headlight housing. It is routed to the outside of the air scoop assembly so that the headlamp housing is never subject to ram air pressure when the vehicle is moving, or engine intake ststem/ crankcase vapor emissions when the hot engine is switched off. Either one can cause condensation and/or contamination to enter the headlight housings, thereby fouling the lenses and reflectors. All cars that have euro style headlight housings residing in the ram air path must have those ventilation tubes. It is simply coincidence that the tube happens to line up with the resistor. It is the pre-existing cutaway, and/or hole for the vent tube that I am suggesting opening up and extending to allow some ram air to ventilate the resistor. I put that and some photos in a previous post dealing with the resistors. I'll find it later and point it out. Anyway, all cars with Eurostyle lights either came with those tubes installed, or needed to have them installed upon conversion to euro lights.
:klink:
Thanks for this. My car received a set of "gen-u-whine" Euro lights that I received for free about 10 years ago from my friend in Belgium. Explains the presence of the tube.
 

Klink

postwhore posterchild
Staff member
Thanks for this. My car received a set of "gen-u-whine" Euro lights that I received for free about 10 years ago from my friend in Belgium. Explains the presence of the tube.
True, but also note that if you have a "facelift"/ E500 USA car, it would have already had the tubes.
 

nocfn

E500E Guru
Removed the rear windscreen in my C126 as it was badly delam, and I noticed a rust bubble. I anticipated the worst upon removal, but alas the Fatherland has smiled on me. Two rust areas, mostly surface and a very small amount is going to be cut out. I shall treat and reseat my new back glass that has been tinted and is delam free. Yes I have a genuine MB gasket. Pics look worse than it is!

 

nocfn

E500E Guru
I fault the PO getting a respray. The vertical edge had paint on it, and an obvious tape line. Once I cleaned all the mastic and brushed the area with stiff wire brush, it is really going to be simple to repair. the paint was over the old mastic, so the painters just sprayed over it, then reinstalled it. DOH!
 
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