1994 E420 M119 engine missing after no driving for a day or longer

[pbalraj]

It has 209,000 miles. Runs well with a lack of power according to my assessment. Had some work done on it. If I use the call every day I have no issue. However, if it stays parked for only a full day it will start as normal but will start missing as soon as it reaches operating temperature. It stutters and will not accelerate. I park at the office and an hour later it starts and run normal for the rest of the day and everyday until is parked for a day or longer.
I changed the spark plugs. The engine powers better but the problem is still there. Using a blink code reader, I got the following blinks.
Pin No.14 - 22 blinks
Pin No.16 - 30 Blinks
Pin No.17 - 7 blinks and 14 blinks
Pin No.14 - no blink. Light stays on solid
Pin No.16 - 1 Blink
Pin No.17 - 1 Blink
Pin No. 19 - 4 Blinks, 6 blinks, 10 blinks, 17 blinks, 18 blinks, 19 blinks.
I cleared all the codes except for the 4 blinks from Pin No. 19.
I drove for about 100 miles and rechecked the codes. Reading as follows:
Pin No. 19 - 4 blinks
No other pin shows more than 1 blink.
The behavior is still there if I parked her for a day or longer.
Do not know it this matters. In park, as soon as it reaches 4,000 it starts missing going up and down if I keep the gas pedal down to 4,000 rpm.
Do not know if this is another unrelated issue. Also, last February to April, when the mornings were cooler, I found that that it goes to limp mode until engine warms up. I then shut off the engine and restarts, all lights go off and runs well for remainder of the day. Next morning it repeated until the days got warmer. I will only know if this problem still exists until fall when it gets cold in the mornings.
Really like to solve the problem of missing. From home it takes 2 minutes to the highway, drives for 4 minutes on highway and exists. When I stop at the ramp waiting for the light to change it will start to miss gradually and gets scary for the acceleration is not there. I feels as it it is running on 4 to 6 cylinders only. It is not safe for me. In 5 minutes I am at the office still on low power. Later in the day, it runs as if nothing happened.
Thanks for your help.

 

[nocfn]

Well documented here. Caps rotors insulators and cam seals. Replace all of them and your issues will go away.

 

[gsxr]

This sounds a lot like the known issue with the caps/rotors/insulators, as nocfn mentioned above. How old are these components, in years and miles?

 

[pbalraj]

Don't know exactly. Passenger side new rotor and caps less than 1000 miles and 6 months old. Not sure about insulator and cam seal. Driver's side 3 years approximately 4500 miles new rotor and distributors cap only changed.
Is change of cam seal and insulator replacement major projects? Is it a DIY project?
Any recommendations for brand of caps seals rotors and insulator. I am in Ontario Canada. Car was purchased in North Carolina, USA.
Thanks.

 

[gsxr]

This is all DIY if you have hand tools and a spare weekend. The caps/rotors have low miles and should be serviceable. As explained in the other threads (search the forum), inspect the insulators and replace if there's liquid on the back side. You may also want to add ventilation slots on the cap as well. Bosch is the only brand available for insulators.

I like Beru caps and only OE rotors, but again, you shouldn't need to change them again unless they look unusually bad.

 

[JC220]

Thread 'Essential M119 Ignition "Tune Up" mods' FYI - Essential M119 Ignition "Tune Up" mods | M119 Engine

 

[nocfn]

Car from NC, is this a @Trae mobile? If so he kept good records.

 

[Trae]

Not one of mine, but I have had new, out of the box, caps fail on more than one occasion.

You could start over with new caps, rotors, and insulators. Tha way you know those components are fresh.

Do one side at a time to see if there's a change. If no change, assume that the components you removed are good and keep them as spares.

Then, move on to other ignition items if it doesn't fix the problem.

 

[pbalraj]

Thanks for all the inputs. I really having difficulty finding insulators. Never changed them. I would really like to have them available before I open the distributors to check current conditions. Any advise in procuring aftermarket insulators in the Toronto area in Canada?
Also, can the cam seal be changed via the distributors or does it involve getting to it via the camshaft covers?

 

[gsxr]

I don't know about availability in Canada, eh, but in USA the insulators are commonly available for ~$50 USD each from all the usual aftermarket vendors (RM Euro, AHAZ, FCP Euro, Pelican, etc etc). Or the dealer of course, at much higher price.

The seals can be replaced without removing the aluminum cover from the head, per the FSM procedure. Check the cam solenoids/magnets for oil leaks, which are very common, and gravity pulls oil down from that area to the lower edge of the distributor...