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Another Convert to Good Vacuum

luckymike

E500E Guru
Member
Our new to us 1995 E420 was shifting increasingly later out of first, and then jumping right to third. Every once in a while it would almost work right.

I started reading about how to bypass the upshift delay. I read about the importance of fresh fluid and filter and scheduled the car for that service, even though it had been done less than 2,000 miles ago.

I was under the hood the other day, just getting to know the engine bay. I checked some of the elbow vacuum connectors and discovered that some of them had a pretty loose fit. Not terrible, just not new and snug. I decided to order a bunch.

Following the EPC count, I ordered 7 of 1170780281, which is a 90 degree elbow with one long side that you cut to the particular length required, and 6 of 1170780581, which is about a 60 degree elbow. I also ordered one 2018050222, the one into three connector tucked up under the cowl on the drivers side.

While waiting for our son at an event last night, I popped the hood and changed just about all of the elbows. There's one still to do down at the trans and a couple long elbows I haven't found yet.

I got the ones at the front and rear of the intake manifold, the four hiding at the fender behind the washer reservoir, and the ones up under the cowl.

It's a miracle! The trans shifts PERFECTLY. What a relief and what a pleasure. And what a cheap and easy fix. There's a good reason they say to check the basics first.
 
Indeed, it's good to change all fuses to the copper/brass fuses (ditch the aluminum ones) and to change all vacuum lines (brittle) and connectors (leaky).

I also mention vacuum connector changing in this thread, when I did the W124 dashboard vacuum pod change-out.

Cheers,
Gerry
 
Indeed, it's good to change all fuses to the copper/brass fuses (ditch the aluminum ones) and to change all vacuum lines (brittle) and connectors (leaky).

I also mention vacuum connector changing in this thread, when I did the W124 dashboard vacuum pod change-out.

Cheers,
Gerry

While at the junkyard I usually pull off the vacuum connectors, not so much for their use but for their part numbers. Easier to order and have around than to wait for one to come in.
Same with the plastic electrical connectors.

Ron
 
Dang, Ron, you must have good eyes to read the tiny tiny part numbers moulded onto the outside of those vacuum connectors......
 
Update: Shifting still not right after a couple weeks. Having better luck with adjusting throttle cable.

On that topic, manual instructs to align two pointers on the bell crank. When I turn the adjuster to tighten the throttle cable to bring the pointers into alignment, my idle increases. Can anyone direct me to the part of the manual that tells how to accurately adjust the cable and rods involved?
 
Refer to "Accelerator Control" (#30) in Factory Service Manual (not the clearest guidelines, though)

Based on the FSM instructions for M119 119.97x w/ ASR engine (mine is 119.985 w/ASR but the configuration is similar to the 119.971), the following worked for me (idles and shifts smoothly). The FSM method for M119 is more involved, and I will retrace those steps again in the future, just to be sure:

Basically 2 steps

1) adjust closed/WOT position of throttle plate: use knurled nut to adjust so there is no play at cable end (washer vs spring) AND no tension on spring either.

2) then, adjust rod length so pointers align. The two halves of the rod screw apart or together to change the overall length and therefore aligns the two pointers.

Hope this helps.
 
Refer to "Accelerator Control" (#30) in Factory Service Manual (not the clearest guidelines, though)

Based on the FSM instructions for M119 119.97x w/ ASR engine (mine is 119.985 w/ASR but the configuration is similar to the 119.971), the following worked for me (idles and shifts smoothly). The FSM method for M119 is more involved, and I will retrace those steps again in the future, just to be sure:

Basically 2 steps

1) adjust closed/WOT position of throttle plate: use knurled nut to adjust so there is no play at cable end (washer vs spring) AND no tension on spring either.

2) then, adjust rod length so pointers align. The two halves of the rod screw apart or together to change the overall length and therefore aligns the two pointers.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, black-55. I will meditate on this as I stare at the engine!

Yes, I found the manual to be somewhat unhelpful though I did just come across 30-1010EB which looks like it might match the linkage on my car.

Thank you.
 
Thanks, black-55. I will meditate on this as I stare at the engine!

Yes, I found the manual to be somewhat unhelpful though I did just come across 30-1010EB which looks like it might match the linkage on my car.

Thank you.

Okay, it was point 2) of black-55s post that seems to have solved the delayed shifting, not my replacement of vacuum elbows. After studying the linkage intently, it finally became clear that I had to loosen the 7mm bolt on the adjustable link to make the pointers line up. I had been using the knurled nut to line up the pointers and my idle would increase and the shifting didn't improve. Now, after a very short test run, it seems to shift perfectly.

One of these days I'll pull the whole linkage and clean and lube it. Appears it may have been a while since this was done.
 

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