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HOW-TO: Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

DerFuror

500E Terminus Illuminatus
Member
The power front-seat headrests are often found inoperable in W124 cars because of repetitive manual adjustment of the headrest height. Let’s face the facts… most people don’t read owner’s manuals, are completely unaware that power headrests even exist, or don’t listen when you provide operational instruction. Manually adjusting the headrest height will eventually discombobulate the headrest’s internal mechanical components, leaving them piled in a heap at the base of the seatback.

There are usually three reasons for inoperable headrests:

1. Components have fallen apart
2. Components have broken
3. Electrical failure


My passenger seat headrest became inoperable. I held off from blaming my nephew until I could investigate. I had demonstrated how to adjust the headrest before leaving on a roadtrip. He only adjusted it once during the trip. A few days later, my sister was unable to adjust the headrest on the way home. A critical internal polymer component of the Adjusting Rail had broken. I think age & use was the actual culprit. A new Adjusting Rail unit can be had from parts.com for @ $20. I am fortunate to have a “Pickapart” yard a few minutes away. I liberated two units from a willing donor Benz.

This “HOW-TO” will show you how to inspect/repair an inoperable power headrest.

Reference Info:

  • EPC Grp 91 Front Seats, SubGrp 060 Front Seat & Headrest
  • FSM 91-190 Removal & Installation of tensioning member on driver’s or front passenger backrest
  • FSM 91-060 Removal & Installation of adjusting rail for head restraint

Tools:
Philips head screwdriver
Body trim removal set
Straight Pick
Pliers
Gleitpaste

Here’s what to do if your headrests won’t work properly.


1. First verify that the headrest motor still works by listening to the lower seatback while pressing the door-mounted headrest switch up & down. Proceed with the FSM instructions if you can hear the motor running.

There is an electrical delivery issue to investigate if you do not hear the motor running.

2. Although stated in the FSM, it is not necessary to remove the head restraint in order to inspect/repair the control mechanisms. But if you want to remove the head rest…:

a. Using the control switch, tilt the seatback forward

b. Using the control switch, move the seatbottom forward so you have room to work from the rear seat

c. Open the sliding roof (for air, light & extra room to operate)

d. Ensure the head rest is seated in the fully “UP” position.

e. Press in the head restraint removal button located on the seatback. This will disengage the headrest from its slide rail connection. Look toward the upper left center of the seatback; you will see its circular outline on the seatback material.

f. Lift the head restraint straight up & out of the seatback.

3. The FSM 91-190 procedure is pretty straight-forward. As instructed, remove the seatback cover & inspect what parts have accumulated at the bottom of the seatback. If you are lucky, the items only need to be reassembled. The Adjusting Rail has two knobs that fit into corresponding holes in the vertical metal guide rail of seat back structure. The knobs are held in place by a sliding lock plate.

Make the effort to re-lube the Adjusting Rail’s Pinion Gear Housing internals with Gleitpaste or equivalent. The Gear Housing is a two-piece assembly made of a white polymer material pinned together with two pins of the same material. To properly lube the gear, or if the Housing has separated from the rail, separate the housing by removing the pins. The pins can be pushed out using a straight pick or equivalent. Place the rail back within the housing & pin the housing back together.

Within the housing is a metallic gear. A spring shaft fits into the gear on one end & the electric motor on the other end. The midsection of the shaft fits thru a loop attached to the opposite vertical metal guide rail structure of the seatback. Make sure the shaft is fit thru this loop. The loop holds the rotating shaft in position while operating the headrest.

4. Reassemble the components as specified in FSM 91-160. Make sure the sliding lock plate is firmly seated in the “Lock” position.

5. Upon successful testing of your work, reassemble the Seat Back (aka “Clamping Member”) back into position as specified in FSM 91-190. Laterally pull around, then press the Backrest Covering into its “J” channel with the palms of your hands. Screw the two screws back into the bottom of the Seat Back.

Now enjoy an operational headrest again. :grin:
 

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Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Great write-up! The very late 124's (mid-1994 model year & up) use a slightly different rail, although the two may be interchangeable. Pics below:

EDIT 1: The early style (#01) is NLA by 2022. Link.
EDIT 2: The late style (#02) is NLA by 2025.
Link.

10.jpg
 
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Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Thank you. The rail on the MY93 is gray in color. The contemporary C280 is was expecting to ravage was no longer in the Pickapart yard after only one month (although it still appeared on their website). :x

The rails I liberated were actually from a MY89 W126 Land-Barge & white in color. Dimensionally the same, but slightly different in the spring-tensioned slider area. The entire MY89 Adjusting Rail will still work as a complete replacement, but I only used the Gear Housing (which is an exact duplicate of the MY93 Gear Housing).

Essentially, my car's Adjusting Rail still looks & works exactly like a MY93 500E's.:p
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

a MY89 W126 Land-Barge
Hey, watch what you're calling a land barge there. I happen to have a 1989 126 chassis. If you put it up to a 140, a 220 or a 221 it's most definitely NOT a land barge. Particularly compared to the 140.
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Hey, watch what you're calling a land barge there...
Duly noted, but all scuttled on dry-dock as it was...sadly, a Land Barge (still with a lot of salvageable goodies available before the final float to the scrapper).

But at one time it most definitely was a beautiful top-notch Land Yacht.:woohoo:
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

I see .. I thought you were commenting on the mass of the car, as opposed to it's perma-docked status.
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

excellent! Have the same issue on my c36amg... the motor works, but the headrest is only."rattling". Will checking it out according to this guide soon. Should be similar in design on the W202
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Where do you start if this is the case?

Bing, not to ever discourage the asking of questions, but you realize by asking this question, you are shooting that E500E Guru title all to hell?

If the motor isn't functioning, trace its circuit from the easy to the difficult, ensuring that electricity is reaching each component (Fuses, relays, motor, switches). This investigation is a process of elimination.

Consider starting with fuses, but disregard this step if the other seat adjustments are working (particularly backrest movement). Also, if fuses #2 & #3 are faulty, you'll have many more very obvious inoperable features throughout the car besides headrest.

- Fuse#2 (seat adjustment)
- Fuse#3 (front seat adjustment & memory)
- Fuse E (front seat adjustment for backrest, headrest & memory)

Check if electrical connection for motor is disconnected. Check if electricity reaches this connection.

Try to directly energize motor from alternate power source. If it doesn't work, the motor is no good. Replace.

If motor is good, check front seat headrest adjustment relay under front seat. Exchange relay with a known working relay or use diagnostic tool.

If relay is good, check headrest control switch on door. Exchange with a known working switch or use diagnostic tool.

If the components all test ok, the wiring between components is suspect (possibly pinched or cut). Check the wire run between the inoperable component & the last operating component along the circuit.

A diagnostic tool like this helps tremendously...PowerProbe.jpg
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Derf - you forgot one thing (...unbelievably...:-))

The switches for the headrest often get contact problems over time, simply due to rarely operation. They need some massage from time to time to be OK (...just as the rheostat switch for the instrument light dimming located in the cluster)

Cheers
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Derf - you forgot one thing...

Arnt, the control switch is mentioned @ paragraph 7. I agree it would be surprising to forget that very important part of the headrest circuit.

"If relay is good, check headrest control switch on door. Exchange with a known working switch or use diagnostic tool."
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Bing, not to ever discourage the asking of questions, but you realize by asking this question, you are shooting that E500E Guru title all to hell?

I knew I'd get dissed by the derf:lolzz:.
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Arnt, the control switch is mentioned @ paragraph 7. I agree it would be surprising to forget that very important part of the headrest circuit.

"If relay is good, check headrest control switch on door. Exchange with a known working switch or use diagnostic tool."
You did?!? Oh no - you got me!
I'm a bit fast sometimes - but it brings me forward anyway.. :-D

Thanks for a good write up anyway. :-)
 
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Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

What about inoperable rear headrests on a 93 500E
FYI... the rear headrests only power down (not up), the engine must be running, and the rear window sun shade must be fully retracted.

:detective:
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

... and sometimes you have to hold the button down for a bit.... ;)
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Yes, make sure the rear sun shade is pushed down into its slot. Then 99% of the time the rear headrests will retract.

If that doesn't do the trick, you'll need to check the vacuum circuit with a MityVac. There is a small round vacuum element for each headrest, which contains a rubber diaphragm. These can go bad with age, but they are pretty well protected so I haven't seen this as a problem up until now. Like has been said, 99% of the time, it's the rear sun shade not being quite totally retracted so that the button in its slot is pushed down.

Cheers,
Gerry
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Any tips on how to remove the seat back? I removed the 2 screws and then loosened the seat back all along the J-channel...but it just won't pop out. Does the headrest HAVE to be removed first? Thx
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

With the two bottom screws removed, and the leather carefully removed from the side channels COMPLETELY, the back/pocket should slide down & out. Might need to use some muscle, but nothing else holds it in place. No need to remove the headrest first.

:watchdrama:
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Dave, thx. Won't budge! Guess I'm off to an upholstery shop...spend, spend, spend.
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Greg, once the 2 screws and side leather is removed from the channel, there is nothing else holding the back in place. Try prying out gently at the bottom. The worst part is getting the leather out of the side channels, without damaging it.

:sawzall:
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Perfect timing on this thread resurrection. My '95 diesel driver's side headrest just quit and I can hear grinding of crispy plastic bits going on when the switch is activated. Gotta plug that part number into parts.com and see what the damage will be. $22.20, not too awful bad.
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Perfect timing on this thread resurrection. My '95 diesel driver's side headrest just quit and I can hear grinding of crispy plastic bits going on when the switch is activated. Gotta plug that part number into parts.com and see what the damage will be. $22.20, not too awful bad.

Hi Allgonquin...been a while! I have the parts you need...turns out that I bought rails and the slide mechanism for both front seats yet it turns out that my passenger front seat headrest works as designed. I think it was just kinda stuck in the lowest position. Anyhoo...I will send you a pm of what I have and perhaps save you some dosh.

BTW, never got the seat back cover off of my driver's seat...curious to hear how you approach it.
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Just wanted to say thanks to Derf and to Greg. I just completed this repair on my driver's side headrest. The "car" which rides on the track which Derf more properly calls the slide mechanism gear housing was cracked on mine, although it had not fallen completely off. It would have taken me MUCH longer to do this repair if I was flying blind. I'll raise a pint to you folks next time I'm at the bar, which could be tonight!

FYI my car, a '95 diesel C072474 with build date 11/93 had the gray track, the top one in Dave's photo. Although the black and gray will both fit, I think if you replace the gray with the black you will have too little travel on the headrest.

Rgds,
Chris
 
Re: HOW-TO Repair Inoperable Power Headrests

Looking at Dave's pictures the grey track has more travel than the black one... so if the rests have less travel- you can use the later in the early cars, but not the other way around.. general MB design.

Michael
 
Is there any trick or technique to reinstalling the headrests? I took mine out to remove the sheepskin seat covers that have been on the car for about 20 years. Someone told me a little while ago that you have to be very careful in reinstalling the headrests or you could break the interior mechanism. He didn't give me any more detail than that and I can't find any instructions on how to put them back in. My guess is that it's so easy that people don't bother describing how to do it, but I'd rather ask a stupid question now and have functional headrests than have a broken headrest and my stupidity kept secret.
 
Is there any trick or technique to reinstalling the headrests? I took mine out to remove the sheepskin seat covers that have been on the car for about 20 years. Someone told me a little while ago that you have to be very careful in reinstalling the headrests or you could break the interior mechanism. He didn't give me any more detail than that and I can't find any instructions on how to put them back in. My guess is that it's so easy that people don't bother describing how to do it, but I'd rather ask a stupid question now and have functional headrests than have a broken headrest and my stupidity kept secret.

Run the headrest tracks all the way up by holding the switch in the up position until you hear the motor stop running. If it never stops running, your mechanism is broken. Once the track is all the way up, simply insert the headrest legs into the bores while visualzing them straight relative to the backrest rear cover. You may have to lower the seat and/or recline the backrest to do it smoothly. Once you feel some resistance, apply a light downward force to it until you feel it "click" into the retainer on the track. That will only be few millimeters of additional downward travel. If there is no sensation of a detent click, you either allowed the legs to go too far forward and missed the track and/or the track is broken. Broken tracks are common, and they are easy and cheap to replace, so don't freak out, go postal, or otherwise wig if that's the case...
:klink:
 
Broken tracks are common, and they are easy and cheap to replace, so don't freak out, go postal, or otherwise wig if that's the case...
:klink:

Thank you sir! And as you know, I'm prone to wigging out when things go wrong, but I promise it will only last a few minutes. Serenity now, serenity now...
 
Hmm. Everything seemed to go according to plan but the headrests didn't go down when I pressed the button. The motor stopped going eventually when I pressed it up, and it clicked nicely when I inserted the headrest legs. I'm planning on taking the car to an upholsterer soon to fix the B-pillars so I'll see if they can do it. If I figure out that I was doing something wrong, I'll update here so others with 0.5 on a 1-10 DIY ability scale might be able to do it properly later.
 
Hmm. Everything seemed to go according to plan but the headrests didn't go down when I pressed the button. The motor stopped going eventually when I pressed it up, and it clicked nicely when I inserted the headrest legs. I'm planning on taking the car to an upholsterer soon to fix the B-pillars so I'll see if they can do it. If I figure out that I was doing something wrong, I'll update here so others with 0.5 on a 1-10 DIY ability scale might be able to do it properly later.

To close the loop on this, I took my car to an upholsterer to get the b-pillars fixed and asked about my headrests. He just gave them a little bit more of a push to pop them in place. I was just being a little too gentle. I guess when I heard the click, that was the start of getting the legs in place but I didn't follow through enough.
 
Now, that the major stuff is out of the way on the E320, it is the minor stuff that is bugging me and I am starting to tackle it. Passenger side headrest is one of them and opened up the seatback today.

I don't see Gleitpaste being recommended in the FSM. Is that a nice to have to keep the sliding mechanism going?

If needed, what is a good alternative that is readily available? Or, someone willing to ship few teaspoons to Seattle area and I will cover the cost.
Thx!
 
I think the headrest mechanism generally does not need any lube along the length of the rail. It might attract dust/debris which could hurt more than help. I personally do not lube these.

:klink:
 
Run the headrest tracks all the way up by holding the switch in the up position until you hear the motor stop running. If it never stops running, your mechanism is broken. Once the track is all the way up, simply insert the headrest legs into the bores while visualzing them straight relative to the backrest rear cover. You may have to lower the seat and/or recline the backrest to do it smoothly. Once you feel some resistance, apply a light downward force to it until you feel it "click" into the retainer on the track. That will only be few millimeters of additional downward travel. If there is no sensation of a detent click, you either allowed the legs to go too far forward and missed the track and/or the track is broken. Broken tracks are common, and they are easy and cheap to replace, so don't freak out, go postal, or otherwise wig if that's the case...

I tried putting in a new mechanism and broke it and hence, taking another read at this thread.
If everything is disconnected and headrest button is pressed upward, should motor keep running or should it stop and reverse?
The flexible shaft that connects the motor to the lifting mechanism has two ends to fit the hex heads but they are not equal lengths (one end is much longer than the other). Is the longer end supposed to go into the motor or the other way around?
Thx
 
I tried putting in a new mechanism and broke it and hence, taking another read at this thread.
If everything is disconnected and headrest button is pressed upward, should motor keep running or should it stop and reverse?
The flexible shaft that connects the motor to the lifting mechanism has two ends to fit the hex heads but they are not equal lengths (one end is much longer than the other). Is the longer end supposed to go into the motor or the other way around?
Thx

Looking at the photos up close, the longer end fits into the motor.
Regarding my other question, anyone knows if the motor is supposed to have set range for rotation and stop automatically?
 
Here's a video of me following the great steps that these guys wrote up above, so you can see it as it unfolds.

Shows how to get the back of the seat off, and look at the inside of the seat and the part that is usually the culprit.

Such a great video. It helped me open up the back of my car's seats, and I discovered the culprits.
On the driver's side, the plastic mechanism and one of the headrest guide rails are broken.
Does anyone know what size, and type of rivet would be required to fix this?
 

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