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500E Kickdown stopped working
- Thread starter little_e
- Start date
The transmission has no computer controls for shifting, so there will not be any fault codes from any module.
Check kickdown switch, wire to solenoid, and kickdown solendoid.
If your valve body is stock, here's an easy test: While stopped, put the shift lever in "B" and leave it there. Accelerate slowly to 3000rpm. If the trans stays in 1st gear and does not upfhift until you move the shifter out of "B", the wiring and solenoid are ok.
Check kickdown switch, wire to solenoid, and kickdown solendoid.
If your valve body is stock, here's an easy test: While stopped, put the shift lever in "B" and leave it there. Accelerate slowly to 3000rpm. If the trans stays in 1st gear and does not upfhift until you move the shifter out of "B", the wiring and solenoid are ok.
If the "B" switch works normally, the issue is probably not with the transmission, it's more likely something with the wiring in the chassis/interior/etc.
Can you describe in more detail what is not working, i.e. what you expect to happen and what actually happens?
Can you describe in more detail what is not working, i.e. what you expect to happen and what actually happens?
Well - if I press the accellerator (shifter in D, transmission in fourth), and it downshifts to third, maybe I'm driving at 40-45 mph, and I depress the accellerator fully (I hear a click), I would like it to downshift to second gear for faster accelleration - but no... Not a chance. Won't happen. That's an example of what's happening.
Hmmm. I'd have to test in my car but I'm not sure what you expect will happen. The trans will only downshift if it's below a certain speed in each gear. How about if you are at 30mph in 4th gear and floor it (engaging kickdown switch)? This should drop to 2nd gear, around 3500rpm, and pull to redline where it will upshift to 3rd at ~70mph.
At 45mph, I don't know if it will drop to 2nd...
At 45mph, I don't know if it will drop to 2nd...
When I experienced a similar problem a few months ago the cause was bad fuel pumps and cats.
Hmmm. I'd have to test in my car but I'm not sure what you expect will happen. The trans will only downshift if it's below a certain speed in each gear. How about if you are at 30mph in 4th gear and floor it (engaging kickdown switch)? This should drop to 2nd gear, around 3500rpm, and pull to redline where it will upshift to 3rd at ~70mph.
At 45mph, I don't know if it will drop to 2nd...
To pick up this thread again.
This is how a 500 should behave:
500E kickdown from 4th gear
My friend's E36 is the same and the E320 I used to have was the same.
I have investigated further, and this is what's happening (and what's not happening).
In first gear my car will pull to the redline before shifting into second. In second and third it will shift just before 5000 rpms even though my foot is planted on the kickdown switch.
I have a new kickdown solenoid, the switch under the accelerator is new, the wire to the solenoid is good and there is +12V to the solenoid when the engine is running and the kickdown switch is pressed.
So - since the transmission is shifting too early, can this be due to either something inside the transmission or that I need to readjust the bowden cable - even though the pointers are lining up?
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You might try fiddling w/ the bowden cable --- try to take out any slack. My bowden cable had a bit of slack in it when both pointers were lined up. I took out the slack (so that the pointers no longer line up) and the trans got more responsive wrt downshifts.
I just tried this. Nothing happens. But I know that the solenoid is good and working (new and tested), there is +12V to the connector for the solenoid (at least on idle), and the kickdown switch is new...
I mean.. Really? A malfunction inside the transmission?
Hmmm. I'd have to test in my car but I'm not sure what you expect will happen. The trans will only downshift if it's below a certain speed in each gear. How about if you are at 30mph in 4th gear and floor it (engaging kickdown switch)? This should drop to 2nd gear, around 3500rpm, and pull to redline where it will upshift to 3rd at ~70mph.
At 45mph, I don't know if it will drop to 2nd...
Btw, I just remembered that the wire to the transmission overload switch probably broke at some point and non-original wires have been put in place of the OEM ones. Can this affect kickdown - since it's in the same wiring loom?
I'm like two seconds away from calling the transmission shop
So - an update here. I went to town on this today. Kickdown now works! 
It seems that due to play in the linkage, the transmission didn't kick down from third to second.
The car even feels much more responsive.
The problem now is that when the transmission shifts from second to third (full throttle) I get a flare, and the engine reaches the rev limiter for a split second.
I guess it's time for a shift kit?
It seems that due to play in the linkage, the transmission didn't kick down from third to second.
The car even feels much more responsive.
The problem now is that when the transmission shifts from second to third (full throttle) I get a flare, and the engine reaches the rev limiter for a split second.
I guess it's time for a shift kit?
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Great news!So - an update here. I went to town on this today. Kickdown now works!
It seems that due to play in the linkage, the transmission didn't kick down from third to second. The car even feels much more responsive.
At full throttle, if the 1-2 shift feels ok, and 2-3 flares... first try turning up the vacuum modulator pressure. Turn the metal T-bar clockwise in 1-turn increments and test drive after each adjustment. If this cures the 2-3 flare without making other shifts unacceptably firm, you're done.
If not, the next step is to get the K1 spring kit, which may help. It's also possible your existing K1 spring train is damaged/broken. The kit is cheap and is easy to replace after draining & removing the pan. You may need to tweak the vacuum modulator again afterwards. If the upgraded K1 helps but doesn't totally cure it, last option is the Superior kit, which has even stiffer spring options, but every step along this path is trial & error.... install, test drive, adjust vac modulator, lather/rinse/repeat.
