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OWNER Opkoua0786
- Thread starter Opkoua0786
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Hi guys, my name is Orest, originally from Ukraine but now living in Chicago. I wanted to share my story.
I bought this 1994 E420 from a dealer in Florida last year. I sent a friend to check it out, and he said the engine was leaking from the top covers, with oil everywhere—even underneath. But the body was in perfect condition, with only one rusty spot.
My plan was to change the top end like TerryA did (thank you for that info). But when the car arrived in my yard and I started working on it, I realized that absolutely everything was covered in oil. Step by step, I disassembled everything from the front part of the engine, and now I guess I have to take the engine out.
The car was running, but when I pressed the gas pedal to the floor, the engine stopped running. When I wanted to drive, the car was running, but it accelerated slowly.
Ive already put in a lot of work, and I think the best option now is to pull the engine. What do you think?
I bought this 1994 E420 from a dealer in Florida last year. I sent a friend to check it out, and he said the engine was leaking from the top covers, with oil everywhere—even underneath. But the body was in perfect condition, with only one rusty spot.
My plan was to change the top end like TerryA did (thank you for that info). But when the car arrived in my yard and I started working on it, I realized that absolutely everything was covered in oil. Step by step, I disassembled everything from the front part of the engine, and now I guess I have to take the engine out.
The car was running, but when I pressed the gas pedal to the floor, the engine stopped running. When I wanted to drive, the car was running, but it accelerated slowly.
Ive already put in a lot of work, and I think the best option now is to pull the engine. What do you think?
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This is what I found in the oil pan
These pieces are from the top rail
These pieces are from the top rail
Welcome to the forum, Orest!
What diagnostics / troubleshooting have you performed to figure out the engine running problem? Have you checked fault codes on all modules? Details here, see the "How-To" sticky thread.
I'd post a new thread in the Troubleshooting and Diagnostics subforum (click here). Include details about if the car was running normally before you bought it, or not... if the car has ASR or not... what codes are present... etc etc.
@Opkoua0786,
Welcome Orest! You should find this forum very helpful with most of your issues. Hope to hear more from you.
Take Care
Welcome Orest! You should find this forum very helpful with most of your issues. Hope to hear more from you.
Take Care
I checked the timing and was surprised again.
I pinned the driver-side cams, and they are showing 43-44 on the crank, which is still good for 147,xxx miles (not original since the odometer isn't working).
When I checked the passenger side, I found that someone had messed with the timing because I noticed red marks on the intake cam, and it looks like it jumped a tooth.
Overall, I decided to do a full restoration and will have to take the engine out, but Im not sure how to do it since there are no proper hookup points. The only ones I see are on the water pump and two on top of the intake.
Any advice?
I pinned the driver-side cams, and they are showing 43-44 on the crank, which is still good for 147,xxx miles (not original since the odometer isn't working).
When I checked the passenger side, I found that someone had messed with the timing because I noticed red marks on the intake cam, and it looks like it jumped a tooth.
Overall, I decided to do a full restoration and will have to take the engine out, but Im not sure how to do it since there are no proper hookup points. The only ones I see are on the water pump and two on top of the intake.
Any advice?
What did the passenger side cams measure when you pinned them (individually / 1 at a time)? Old red marks don't mean anything, you need to read the degrees on the balancer with each cam pinned.
Don't pull the engine unless you have to, or unless you plan to do a lot of other work / restoration.
Those are the factory hookup points. Use those 3. The engine only weighs about 500-600 lbs (225-275 kg).
Id say the intake cam chain just jumped one tooth.
Today, I removed the mono wiper because it was broken.
I also took out the old wiring harness and disconnected all the A/C and power steering pump hoses.
The next step will be disconnecting the driveshaft from the transmission and the exhaust from the manifold, which I need to double-check.
Thanks to everyone who has helped me in advance im doing this for the first time.
I have a lot of experience with old USSR motorcycle engines, but Ive never worked on a car before.
The wiring harness was made in 2005, so its a time to replace it.
I don’t know what to do about the oil that’s everywhere.I agree. However you don't need to pull the engine to correct this.
Im keeping this car for myself, and I want to make sure the engine is perfect and always starts when I need it. Id prefer to keep the engine in the car, but again that damn oil.
The second thing pushing me to take the engine out is the rails and debris in the oil pan. To replace the bottom rails, Id need to remove the front cover. In that case, Id have to take the heads off too, which means a full rebuild I think.
Maybe Im wrong, I don’t know.
@Opkoua0786,
Wiring harness is dated 2005 has already been changed. No need to replace unless you see damage on it.
Edit: It’s usually just the top chain rails that are damaged. The rest are probably OK.
Wiring harness is dated 2005 has already been changed. No need to replace unless you see damage on it.
Edit: It’s usually just the top chain rails that are damaged. The rest are probably OK.
Degrease the engine and identify the source of the oil leak.
The broken chain rails are almost always the rails accessible from above, without removing the front cover. You can inspect all the upper rails by removing both valve covers.
A full rebuild (rings, bearings for crank & rods, etc) is both cost prohibitive and totally unnecessary. Right now all you have are some oil leaks, chain rail debris, and one camshaft out of synch. All fixable without pulling the engine, or removing the heads, or front cover.
That said, it would be much easier to replace all the chain rails and re-seal the entire engine if you have the engine on a stand, instead of in the car. But it will add 20-40 hours additional labor to R&R the engine and transmission. Reseal the entire transmission if you remove it, absolutely every external seal, including the front pump... and new reverse clutch discs as well. If the transmission is bone dry and shifts great, that's incentive to not pull the engine... but if the trans is leaking and/or is slow to engage reverse, that's incentive to pull both and reseal both.
Ill check it out tomorrow for any damage wires
I can’t t even tell where the oil is leaking from.I’ll make a video tomorrow
But when I drove the car before, the transmission wasn’t t bad at all, it shifted gears smoothly with no kicks. The only issue was with reverse it wouldn’t engage right away, and I had to wait for it to shift into reverse.
Ohhhh. If the delay is more than about 2 seconds... you need reverse clutches soon. If the delay is 3-4 seconds or longer, it needs them ASAP.
I already received this uro camshaft oilers, should I return these and order original from a forum member?
And i got this flywheel locker from amazon hope it will work
From here and to the back of transI lifted the car and took a closer look underneath.
All the wiring insulation is cracked and in pretty bad shape.
I’ve decided to take the engine and transmission out of the car.
It’s s a lot of work, but I ll handle it.
I hope I can find all the parts I need for this project.
All the wiring insulation is cracked and in pretty bad shape.
I’ve decided to take the engine and transmission out of the car.
It’s s a lot of work, but I ll handle it.
I hope I can find all the parts I need for this project.
YES! Return them! Do not use any URO parts. If you have plastic cam oil tubes, replace them with metal ones. @Beater400E has a set for sale in the classifieds.
That flywheel lock will not fit the M119 engine. Search the forum for more information. You only need a flywheel lock tool if you are replacing the front crankshaft seal... and you will also need a torque wrench rated for 400Nm.
@Opkoua0786 I tried to message you directly, but the forum apparently won't allow it. Not sure if you're too new? @gsxr Dave, any idea why I'm unable to message Opkoua?
I was looking for that option but couldn’t find I thought im stupid 
It's because he's brand new to the forum. There are new rules in place for new members to reduce fraudulent transactions. I'm not sure what the new requirements are (number of posts, minimum time, etc) before he can send PM's. Might need to post contact info temporarily and then edit/delete the post after connecting?
This is my personal email: serafymorest@gmail.comIt's because he's brand new to the forum. There are new rules in place for new members to reduce fraudulent transactions. I'm not sure what the new requirements are (number of posts, minimum time, etc) before he can send PM's. Might need to post contact info temporarily and then edit/delete the post after connecting?
Or
Serafym Orest on facebook or instagram
That's what I figured. Thanks for the confirmation Dave.It's because he's brand new to the forum. There are new rules in place for new members to reduce fraudulent transactions. I'm not sure what the new requirements are (number of posts, minimum time, etc) before he can send PM's. Might need to post contact info temporarily and then edit/delete the post after connecting?