OWNER Type5314

[Type5314]

As recommended, I am starting a thread for my recently-acquired 500E (Admin edit - click here to view the for-sale listing). I have yet to even see the car; it's being shipped up to Oregon via enclosed transport in a week or two.



It least from this pic, it seems to idle correctly and has oil pressure.



Not my first 1992 Smoke Silver rodeo. Oddly, the wagon has about the same mileage on it as the 500:



Earlier, I was into the 123 series. Built like Panzer-wagens, but even boosted, mighty slow:

 

[gsxr]

Very nice cars! It's particularly hard to find a low-mile wagon these days. I owned a few W123's and hope I never own another. The 124 is an order of magnitude more advanced in nearly every possible way. You'll love the 500E, especially if you've never owned one before...

 

[Type5314]

Engine compartment. I am liking the non-yellowed condition of the plastic reservoirs.



Representative example of the stock wheels. This is the only one with a Green N2 dustcap. The other 3 have the proper metal ones with the knurled surface and internal sealing ring. Date code is late 2016. I'm sure they're fine, but there coming off. Anybody know if these 16-inch wheels will fit on a 1992 300 TE?



New "EVO's" from Tom at MBCC. Made in Italy. PN B6-637-00-61.



I made a big bet that this offset (+34 mm) will fit without rubbing, and clear the calipers. Let's hope so. Captruff provided a very nice set of capped wheel "bolts". My friend has a commercial grade polisher: they cleaned up just like new.

On to the infamous Upper Wiring Harness. Correct PN is 124-543-95-26. Manufactured in Poland for Delphi. My Mom is first generation Polish, so I am supremely confident this is a good part.



Date code is February 2012. This is what MBCC will send you as of June 2021.



I intend to replace the Lower Wiring Harness, PN 124-540-27-30, at the same time.



Made in Germany by Auto Kabel. Date code of February 2018. For sure, that's good.



I should get a good look at the motor mounts when this goes in. If they are collapsed, I plan to fix that.

What is the best way to address the ETA? New OEM? Rebuild by a specialist? It's thoughts like this that keep me up at night ;-)

 

[Kyiv]

I've always wondered what that white "marking" on the speedometer is. My car has, and I've seen it on others, though don't remember if on all of them.. @gsxr, would you happen to know?

 

[Kyiv]

What is the best way to address the ETA? New OEM? Rebuild by a specialist?

Don Roden at RFC Electronics in Alabama is the approved and certified "go to" rebuilder of ETAs for this forum. @gerryvz or someone else will let you know how to contact him

 

[Type5314]

Kiev, Wow, sharp eyes! The partially visible markings appear to be silk screened just like the face of the gauge. My guess is an auxiliary part number or calibration coefficient. Or, maybe related to the market the car was sold in: in this case, Option Code 461 "Instruments with Miles Indicated and English Legend"? And, thank you for the RFC link!

 

[Jlaa]

I've always wondered what that white "marking" on the speedometer is. My car has, and I've seen it on others, though don't remember if on all of them.. @gsxr, would you happen to know?

View attachment 133899

Kiev, Wow, sharp eyes! The partially visible markings appear to be silk screened just like the face of the gauge. My guess is an auxiliary part number or calibration coefficient. Or, maybe related to the market the car was sold in: in this case, Option Code 461 "Instruments with Miles Indicated and English Legend"? And, thank you for the RFC link!

Mine shows this number.

 

[Kyiv]

Mine shows this number.

Mystery solved!!

 

[gsxr]

Representative example of the stock wheels. This is the only one with a Green N2 dustcap. The other 3 have the proper metal ones with the knurled surface and internal sealing ring. Date code is late 2016. I'm sure they're fine, but there coming off. Anybody know if these 16-inch wheels will fit on a 1992 300 TE?

The 16x8 ET34 wheels are a fairly aggressive fitment on a 300TE, at 1.5" wider than stock. If the wagon is NOT lowered, you should be ok with careful tire size selection. This has been discussed in the past, search the forum. Worst case you may need to add fender spacers and/or roll the fender lips. If the 300TE is lowered, that's a different story.

New "EVO's" from Tom at MBCC. Made in Italy. PN B6-637-00-61. I made a big bet that this offset (+34 mm) will fit without rubbing, and clear the calipers. Let's hope so. Captruff provided a very nice set of capped wheel "bolts". My friend has a commercial grade polisher: they cleaned up just like new.

The Evo's are nearly the same width/offset as stock, and will have absolutely zero rubbing on a 500E. Correct tire size is 245/45/17 for the 500E, btw... larger diameter than your 300TE tires. The Evos will also clear all factory brake calipers up to the 334mm Brembo "Silver Arrow" setup, in case you want to upgrade in the future.

On to the infamous Upper Wiring Harness. Correct PN is 124-543-95-26. Manufactured in Poland for Delphi. My Mom is first generation Polish, so I am supremely confident this is a good part. Date code is February 2012. This is what MBCC will send you as of June 2021. I intend to replace the Lower Wiring Harness, PN 124-540-27-30, at the same time. Made in Germany by Auto Kabel. Date code of February 2018. For sure, that's good.

Nice that you scored both harnesses. The lower harness recently went NLA (again) and you never know if it might be permanent this time. Upper is easy to replace, lower is not as fun, but following tips that @nocfn posted in a thread a few years ago, it's DIY'able.

I should get a good look at the motor mounts when this goes in. If they are collapsed, I plan to fix that.

Click here to see how to measure engine mount collapse. If worn, buy new OE/Genuine only ($200/ea, but worth it). Replace these at the same time you replace the lower wire harness. I'd also replace the 2 power steering rubber hoses on the driver side, as it's 100x easier with the driver side engine mount removed (and exhaust crossover pipe removed). Incremental labor while you're in there, cost of parts is peanuts.

What is the best way to address the ETA? New OEM? Rebuild by a specialist? It's thoughts like this that keep me up at night ;-)

+1 on Don Roden at RFC. If you contact him, let us know what current pricing is. Looks like the cost has increased substantially in the past year or two.

Kiev, Wow, sharp eyes! The partially visible markings appear to be silk screened just like the face of the gauge. My guess is an auxiliary part number or calibration coefficient. Or, maybe related to the market the car was sold in: in this case, Option Code 461 "Instruments with Miles Indicated and English Legend"? And, thank you for the RFC link!

I believe that is the VDO part number for the faceplate? Not sure though. It's not a calibration number, that is the "K" number printed on a decal on the back of the speedometer, and also on a label on top of the cluster housing. For a USA-spec 500E, should be K=9086.

 

[gerryvz]

Don Roden at RFC Electronics in Alabama is the approved and certified "go to" rebuilder of ETAs for this forum. @gerryvz or someone else will let you know how to contact him

FYI - Electronic Throttle Actuator (ETA) Rebuild | M119 Engine

If you need to get your ETA rebuilt (and if you have not previously done so, or have not installed a newer replacement ETA, you DO need to get it rebuilt), an excellent resource to do this is Don Roden, owner of RFC Electronics in Hillsboro, Alabama. Don is hyper-knowledgable about ETAs, is a...

www.500eboard.co

You can see his work here: RESTO PROJECT: M119 / W124 / E500 Engine Top-End Refresh | Member Roadtrips and Project Journals

 

[Type5314]

Well, the car showed up this morning via Reliable Carriers. The driver was a bit early, and he had it unloaded before I showed up. Upon viewing it for the first time, I am pleased to say it is even better that I hoped. Clearly it's been garaged all its life. The paint is essentially unblemished, with no paint swirl marks, and the anodized trim is perfect. There's minimal scuffing at the both corners of the front air dam, but that's about it. There's light wear on the driver's seat, the other three seats look unused. The factory's protective stick-on plastic wrap is still attached to the door sills. The radio has been replaced, but the old one was supplied.





I reviewed the dealer's service book, and pile of maintenance receipts that came with the car. Main takeaways: oil was changed religiously. Power steering pump, cooling system, window regulators, brake fluid flush, differential seals have seen work. The owner was meticulous about chasing down any leaks, from valve cover gasket to rear main seal. Something north of $30,000 in maintenance expended, most of that in the last 10 years.



I was delighted to find the original sales document from Keenan Motors in Doylestown, PA. Out the door price of $93,483, base of $84,150, with $5,415 in luxury tax, and $3,849 in sales tax. The purchaser, clearly a man of means and taste, received a $20,000 trade-in credit on his 1985 380 SE. The only options were "mats" and "stripes". The car has red over grey pin stripes, a common dealer add-on in its day. No paperwork on the Lorinser spoiler, which the Seller's son said also came from the dealer way back when.



First order of business was to check the upper harness. It was hard to read the label, even with a mirror, but I'mm 99% certain its original, and therefore, in need of immediate replacement.


Even with its (good?) maintenance history and careful ownership, I've budgeted $8-10K to sort it out. $3K of that has already been spent on the EVO's and the wiring harnesses.

To ameliorate the pain, I took her for a spin. Even without license plates, 100 mph is readily available. Drives solid and planted. "No unusual noises". A/C blows nice and cold. Seats are fantastic. I did not turn on the radio...

 

[TimL]

Well, the car showed up this morning via Reliable Carriers. The driver was a bit early, and he had it unloaded before I showed up. Upon viewing it for the first time, I am pleased to say it is even better that I hoped. Clearly it's been garaged all its life. The paint is essentially unblemished, with no paint swirl marks, and the anodized trim is perfect. There's minimal scuffing at the both corners of the front air dam, but that's about it. There's light wear on the driver's seat, the other three seats look unused. The factory's protective stick-on plastic wrap is still attached to the door sills. The radio has been replaced, but the old one was supplied.

View attachment 134213

View attachment 134214

I reviewed the dealer's service book, and pile of maintenance receipts that came with the car. Main takeaways: oil was changed religiously. Power steering pump, cooling system, window regulators, brake fluid flush, differential seals have seen work. The owner was meticulous about chasing down any leaks, from valve cover gasket to rear main seal. Something north of $30,000 in maintenance expended, most of that in the last 10 years.

View attachment 134212

I was delighted to find the original sales document from Keenan Motors in Doylestown, PA. Out the door price of $93,483, base of $84,150, with $5,415 in luxury tax, and $3,849 in sales tax. The purchaser, clearly a man of means and taste, received a $20,000 trade-in credit on his 1985 380 SE. The only options were "mats" and "stripes". The car has red over grey pin stripes, a common dealer add-on in its day. No paperwork on the Lorinser spoiler, which the Seller's son said also came from the dealer way back when.

View attachment 134215

First order of business was to check the upper harness. It was hard to read the label, even with a mirror, but I'mm 99% certain its original, and therefore, in need of immediate replacement.
View attachment 134216

Even with its (good?) maintenance history and careful ownership, I've budgeted $8-10K to sort it out. $3K of that has already been spent on the EVO's and the wiring harnesses.

To ameliorate the pain, I took her for a spin. Even without license plates, 100 mph is readily available. Drives solid and planted. "No unusual noises". A/C blows nice and cold. Seats are fantastic. I did not turn on the radio...

Very nice and somewhat rare to have such a solid maintenance record from a first hand car!

Make sure you have a close look at engine mounts as well as all the suspension parts (shocks, spheres, LCAs, steering damper, drag links, springs, etc.). Found these items to be the most transformative maintenance items, as replacing them really improved the ride quite nicely. My shocks were shot though, so it was needed….

 

[Type5314]

Thanks, Tim, will do. My 300 TE, with about the same mileage, needed front struts, tie-rods, drag link, steering damper and lower ball joints. Shortly thereafter, came new rear springs, SLS air reservoirs, and the a new high pressure line ($$). Stating the obvious: Mercedes put a lot of effort into the suspension design and dynamics; renewal allows one to experience the car as the engineers intended.

 

[gsxr]

FYI... if the ball joints or LCA bushings needs replacement, consider upgrading to the late-style with integrated (non-replacable) ball joint, which will allow for brake upgrades in the future if desired. Otherwise, you can replace the ball joint and bushings separately if you keep the stock/small brakes.

 

[Type5314]

gsxr: Good to know! Grateful to be the beneficiary of all the hard-earned knowledge of this group!

 

[Jlaa]

Are the late style control arms back in production now?

 

[gsxr]

Are the late style control arms back in production now?

Nope. But, the Sportline version is still available, AFAIK.

 

[Type5314]

Had the "twins" out in the sun briefly. Last week, I was able to to duplicate the ASR / Limp mode failure, and immediately clear it by re-starting the car. This only happened once, but records show the PO was reporting it as early as 2014, at which time he replaced the "electronic accelerator control module", whatever that is?

I am uncomfortable with this intermittent issue, imagining it out on Highway 93 in Nevada. While both harnesses are being replaced, the ETA has been dispatched to Don at RFC. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[gsxr]

VERY likely the ETA is the culprit, if original. Let us know Don's post-mortem report!

The E-GAS module (aka "electronic accelerator control module") was probably replaced unnecessarily. Those are relatively rare failures.

 

[Type5314]

Will do.

 

[gerryvz]

The neutral safety switch has been replaced and is in good condition?

 

[Type5314]

Hey, Gerry. No, no record of that particular part being replaced. Any idea what the part number is? I want to eliminate as many of the likely ASR-Limp culprits as possible during this initial "deferred maintenance" go round.

 

[gsxr]

Details here:

HOW-TO: Replacing Neutral Safety Switch (NSS, S16/3) | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

GSXR edit: The neutral safety switch (NSS) is also referred to as the starter lock-out/backup lamp switch, and is switch S16/3 (or S16/1) in MB documentation. All, Today I had to replace the neutral safety switch (aka starter lockout switch) on my wife's 1995 E320 wagon, which uses the 722.3X...

www.500eboard.co

 

[Type5314]

Thanks, Gerry! Thanks Dave! The car showed up with a couple removed parts in the trunk. After examining the link above, I know one of them is the NSS. I just texted the PO and he confirmed the NSS was, in fact, recently replaced, even though the records aren't crystal clear on that point. His mechanic thought it was worth a try to resolve the ASR issue, given it's a $60 part....



Here's the other part that came with the car: the brake light stop switch. I think I read somewhere on the forum this is also a ASR-Limp candidate (?)

 

[gsxr]

Save that old NSS... they are allegedly nearing NLA and getting harder to locate.

The brake light switch can also cause ASR issues but it appears that was changed as well.

You really need fault codes from the E-GAS module (pin #7) to help pinpoint the root cause, if the rebuilt ETA doesn't cure it.

 

[Type5314]

Both the wiring harnesses have been replaced. Like others before me, I am astounded that the car "ran great" given the degradation under the outer sheath:



The lower one was not quite as bad, but still damaged. Probably carries more current...



Meanwhile the ETA is off to Don at RFC. Preliminary report is that it's condition reflects it's low mileage (a plus), but also its age (a negative). It might only need its clutch (?) re-lubed. Don is putting test miles on it as we speak.



We remembered to secure the return spring to avoid heartache:



Generally, and as expected, the car is in good condition, the beneficiary of single careful ownership. We did find a loose distributor cap on the right bank. The ignition wires had been replaced in the past, but not the coil wires. Replacing all with BERU wires. And replacement OEM sparking plugs, and distributor caps. Also, the oil pressure sensor (small leak) and O2 sensor (recommended at 60K miles). Once it's back together again, we'll reset the codes and see how the engine runs. Then will service the transmission, braking system, suspension components, and whatever else is found.

Someone went on a break the last time the plugs were changed ;-)



The original owner tossed some of the paperwork on the car when he moved from PA to Las Vegas. But I had more than enough documentation to allow Chris at Stuttgart Studio to create a reproduction window sticker. He's done some other cars for me. It's really excellent work.

 

[Jlaa]

Thanks, Gerry! Thanks Dave! The car showed up with a couple removed parts in the trunk. After examining the link above, I know one of them is the NSS. I just texted the PO and he confirmed the NSS was, in fact, recently replaced, even though the records aren't crystal clear on that point. His mechanic thought it was worth a try to resolve the ASR issue, given it's a $60 part....

View attachment 135017View attachment 135019

Here's the other part that came with the car: the brake light stop switch. I think I read somewhere on the forum this is also a ASR-Limp candidate (?)

View attachment 135020

Save that old NSS... they are allegedly nearing NLA and getting harder to locate.

The brake light switch can also cause ASR issues but it appears that was changed as well.

You really need fault codes from the E-GAS module (pin #7) to help pinpoint the root cause, if the rebuilt ETA doesn't cure it.

@Type5314 --- if you want to have a spare new NSS, you can still get them on ebay -- albeit they are no longer $60 parts. They are $100 parts - O.E.M. Neutral Safety Switch 0005456206 / 04 8543 60 | eBay

Also for something half fun half functional - you may wish to replace the oil cap with one that doesn't require Hercules finger strength to remove. Use 000 010 13 85 for a list price of $13.50 if your surname is Warbucks. Use 000 010 16 85 for a list price of $2.50 for the same exact shape if your surnam is Scrooge and you can live with the text "Use Mercedes Benz Oil" printed on the cap.

 

[Type5314]

In the quest to remedy the intermittent ASR Limp Mode fault, I dispatched the ETA to Don at RFC. After an inspection and road test, the problem kept popping up. He suspects either the circuit board or the Wheatstone Bridge. In the end, he sent me a different unit which he knew was fully functional, but a slightly newer version. I did not know there were multiple variants. Don assured me the ETA would not affect the power output: I have the earlier car with the 322 Hp rating...



So to summarize, I replaced the upper and lower harnesses, plugs, ignition wires, caps, rotors and sparking plugs. Serviced the transmission, flushed the coolant, replaced the brake fluid, a worn shift bushing, the leaking oil pressure sensor, the O2 sensor, several cracked rubber hoses and plastic vacuum lines, the engine air filter and the fuel filter (also checked the integrity of the fuel lines near the tank, OK). The engine and transmission mounts were good, brake pad remaining is 70% front, 50% rear.

The car now starts easily, and runs perfectly. No more ASR lamp!

Therefore, I decided to bite the bullet on tyres for the EVO wheel set. I chose Continental Contact DWS06+, 245/45 R17.

Replacing the tires allowed me to get a better look at the car's condition and wash off some road grime.

Front wheel wells:





Rear wheel wells:





Wheel bolts from Captruff. freshly polished:



New shoes ;-)



Next step, alignment.

 

[gsxr]

Looks great!

FYI... the dust boot for the strut should be attached to the strut mount up top. It does *not* attach to the plastic strap around the strut body. It can be tricky to get it connected up top. Also, prior to alignment, check all 4 tie rod ends and 2 drag link ends (squeeze with large Channel-Lock pliers), and the idler arm bushings as described in the HOW-TO section. There should be zero play at all the joints. If any tie rod end has play, replace both tie rod assemblies prior to alignment.

And finally, only get alignments at the MB dealer... if this isn't possible you'll need to talk to the alignment shop and verify they have the spreader bar required for Mercedes alignments. If they don't know what you are talking about, I'd go elsewhere, or end up with incorrect toe setting.

 

[Type5314]

Thanks, gsxr, I guessed wrongly in the strut boots. Appreciate the info and will correct it.

Will do on suspension components. The shop and tech I use have a good rapport with the local Mercedes dealership, and have borrowed special tools from them in the past. But I will confirm they can procure the spreader bar before I go that way, thanks!

 

[Type5314]

I scheduled the alignment work at my favorite werk-shoppe. As fate would have it, I lowered the front passenger side window down on the way over there, only to find it would shudder and stall on the way back up. Gotta love old cars...

Here's the printout for the alignment.



I had both the scissor lift and the motor replaced on the right front window. It now works flawlessly. Looking back at the records that came with the car, both the right rear and left front regulators had also been replaced in July 2012, and 2013 respectively. So one more to go....I maybe I won't roll that window down.

When the door panel came off, these little plastic pieces fell out. Anybody know what they are? I note the car had had it's door speakers replaced, as they are date coded 2002.



They are a Mercedes part...



Finally I got a call back from Don at RFC. He was back from vacation and had successfully repaired the original-to-the-car ETA. Something about replacing the induction coil and re-soldering the potentiometer leads... I have a (correct) replacement ETA he sent me in the car now, an outright purchase. He asked if I wanted the original back. Not to be a hoarder, but I said yes. So now I have the repaired original unit on the shelf. Who knows? Someday it might be of value to the next owner.

Here's the repaired unit. Don kept all the stickers and stamps intact. I like that!







Around here, lately, Smoke Silver has taken on a whole new meaning. Apocalyptic fires everywhere...



It wasn't as bad this morning...



Underhood, I enjoy the cosmoline and factory paint marks. It is a nice clean car ;-)

 

[gsxr]

Car looks great! The mystery clips are for the door panel pocket. The black pieces broke off. Very common, replacement pockets are NLA, but you could epoxy things back together if desired. Most 124's are running around with these items broken.

Just curious, do you know if the sliding jaw for the front window regulator was also replaced, or at least verified to be intact? This is another really common failure on the front windows. I just replaced one a few weeks ago, p/n 126-720-00-42, looks like the photo below. Must use OE, the aftermarket ones are 1/4 the price but don't fit properly and break during installation. Don't ask how I know. Front regulators are not a common failure, front motor failures are rare. Rear regulators break more often than they should (design flaw, IMO).

 

[Type5314]

Thanks, I’ll keep the bits and glue them back next time the panel is off.

Yes, all the sliding plastic bits were replaced and verified good.

I also installed the Lamin-X as you recommended on the high beam and fog lamp lenses. The kit I ordered must have been for a European headlamp setup. I ended up trimming it back quite a bit, as it wouldn’t fit the (glass) outboard low beam lenses. Still, glad to have the others protected. Also gave me a chance to get the little wipers lined up correctly, i.e. the same on both sides!

 

[Type5314]

My 1992 300 TE will be selling on BaT tomorrow. Slightly bittersweet, as it was a good one, and I enjoyed every mile I put on it.

1992 Mercedes-Benz 300TE

Bid for the chance to own a 1992 Mercedes-Benz 300TE at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #60,566.

bringatrailer.com

For therapy, I washed "The Five Hundred". I think I'm gonna be OK...

 

[Type5314]

Here are some better photos of the undercarriage of NB690832 after dry ice treatment. Part of the process was removing the exhaust system, heat shields, splash pan and fender liners. In for a dime, in for a Dollar. Enjoy!