• Hi Guest !

    Welcome to the 500Eboard forum.

    Since its founding in late 2008, 500Eboard has become the leading resource on the Internet for all things related to the Mercedes-Benz 500E and E500. In recent years, we have also expanded to include the 400E and E420 models, which are directly related to the 500E/E500.

    We invite you to browse and take advantage of the information and resources here on the site. If you find helpful information, please register for full membership, and you'll find even more resources available. Feel free to ask questions, and make liberal use of the "Search" function to find answers.

    We hope you will become an active contributor to the community!

    Sincerely,
    500Eboard Management

Various Hylomar Formulas - Useage chart

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin, @DITOG
Staff member
I've never really understood all the variations of Hylomar, and their website is largely useless IMO. I started down this rabbit hole looking for a suitable dressing for O-ring seals, which I know normally need no dressing... but in some odd cases I'd like a little bonus protection. Seems there are very few products on the market for O-ring dressing, meant for automotive lubricant / fuel applications. (Nylog works for refrigerant O-rings but that's a different scenario.)

Best I can tell, the AF (Advanced Formula) is good for both O-rings, and also as a rubber hose fitting dressing - something I had never thought about previously. I'm sure y'all have encountered rubber hoses that "glue" themselves to aluminum fittings. I wonder if a thin coat of AF would keep the hose from sticking to the fitting. Might have to try this on the 90° thermostat hose for the M119.

I also didn't realize there was a specific type (Hylotyte Red) meant for sealing coolant components. This might be helpful around the M119 head gasket coolant ports which always weep coolant at the outside of the block/head joint surface. I still don't get what the difference is between the Blue (Methylene Chloride) and M (Acetone) solvent types.

Anyway: The chart at the link below is the first I've seen that explains the applications / usage for the various types.


1714148195368.png
 
When I did some work on a Porsche Panamera a while back Porsche has a special O-ring dressing specifically designed for installing the thermostat into the pump housing. I will look it up. I have seen some techs use RTV around O-ring seals. While I never saw a comeback I would hate to be the next guy. O-rings are designed to move with the assembly and not be trapped with an adhesive. There is not much you can do to improve sealing of the O-ring other than switching to a fluoroelastomer over Butyl or Buna-n.
Personally when it comes to sealing metal to metal surfaces there are manufacturers that have better bonding and sealing than what was offered in the 80’s and 90’s. Fords RTV, Yamabond, Toyota FIPG are some that I can think of off the top of my head. Ultra grey and ultra black also work really well. Motor seal is 3 bond which is used on flexible assemblies like case halves and works really well where don’t want a hard set.
 
When I did some work on a Porsche Panamera a while back Porsche has a special O-ring dressing specifically designed for installing the thermostat into the pump housing. I will look it up. I have seen some techs use RTV around O-ring seals. While I never saw a comeback I would hate to be the next guy. O-rings are designed to move with the assembly and not be trapped with an adhesive. There is not much you can do to improve sealing of the O-ring other than switching to a fluoroelastomer over Butyl or Buna-n.
OH yeah - RTV of any kind, or adhesive, is a major no-no. That's the beauty of Hylomar non-setting formulas, which improve sealing and also actually aid disassembly.


Personally when it comes to sealing metal to metal surfaces there are manufacturers that have better bonding and sealing than what was offered in the 80’s and 90’s. Fords RTV, Yamabond, Toyota FIPG are some that I can think of off the top of my head. Ultra grey and ultra black also work really well.
We still need to use anaerobic for some items which are otherwise very difficult to separate when "glued" together with any adhesive-type sealant - the M119 front head covers & cam solenoids, for example. I once had to remove those where the previous guy use RTV. It was miserable. But yeah, the MB Black super sealant (supposedly repackaged Loctite 5900) works great when fresh. I've been using Right Stuff for some things like differential covers.


Motor seal is 3 bond which is used on flexible assemblies like case halves and works really well where don’t want a hard set.
I had not heard of Three Bond before. Which number series are you referring to?


:apl:
 
Dave I ran into this product when I was rebuilding Subaru engines. The FSM recommended 3 bond and when I did a search dealers and builders were using Permatex Motoseal. It remains flexible and works great for case halves. I have done several engine case assemblies and never had issue. This would also be a good substitute for the cam magnet sealing where anaerobic was recommended. Anaerobic sealers were a thing in the 90’s but I don’t run across them very often anymore. Like I said sealing technology has come a long way. Too bad BMW hasn’t discovered it yet😆

 
Dave I ran into this product when I was rebuilding Subaru engines. The FSM recommended 3 bond and when I did a search dealers and builders were using Permatex Motoseal. It remains flexible and works great for case halves.
Looks like neat stuff! How tightly does it "glue" case halves together? That is the main issue with the cam magnets & head cover.

:nos:
 
It cleans up pretty easily with good old brake cleaner. They also make a RTV cleaning product that I would like to try for those jobs where someone thought if a little is good a lot will be better.
 

Who has viewed this thread (Total: 1) View details

Who has watched this thread (Total: 1) View details

Back
Top