Why would you not want to deal with hydraulics? It's easy. I just checked the website for EZ Carlift and they cost $2000.
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- Thread starter darek_u
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Consider FB marketplace for used quality lifts: If this was closer, I'd be all over it: 登录或注册即可查看
Having watched the above videos I think the Mid-Rise scissor lift is far superior. I don't see too much that is Easy about the EZ lift when compared to the QJ and how do you get a ramp long enough for a W124? In the video he had a Golf which is a pretty short wheelbase car.
I use the QJ with the extender add ons for the W124, it works just fine for the E500/E420. It is not long enough for the w126. You would need to get the longer truck version for the 126. I had no problem with it up in the air, I used my creeper and had plenty of clearance and I am not a small-framed person. I felt safe under there, and it is higher than ramps and I trust it more than jackstands alone - but nobody who takes breath rely on one system - always have some sort of backup.
Just be sure to measure the W126 jack points length and get the longest version offered. I only measured the 124 not the 126, that was my youthful exuberance and while the extender for the version I have gave me 3" more heighth for the 124, it didnt quite make the 126. Take measurements is my point, double check it all. Nice to keep the car ready to lift if it is "shop" bound for a while doing many things. Rotation of tires is a snap with car in the air, replacing SLS components, engine mounts, PS hose work you name it the QJ is great system in my view. Measure twice, purchase what you need in length the first time.
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Thank you all for sharing your experiences with QJ, appreciated. My conclusion on this product is this:
Supplemental equipment, that is useful if you have extra time, money, and no option to fit a 2-poster in the garage and willing to spend 30+min to set it up every time - worth the sale price. I can certainly see one using this QJ outside, on the flat leveled driveway out in the open and enjoy the breeze if the weather is good.
I've seriously considered these QJ but in reality, I think I will get a proper 2 post over time (even if it's lower riser)
Regards,
D
Supplemental equipment, that is useful if you have extra time, money, and no option to fit a 2-poster in the garage and willing to spend 30+min to set it up every time - worth the sale price. I can certainly see one using this QJ outside, on the flat leveled driveway out in the open and enjoy the breeze if the weather is good.
I've seriously considered these QJ but in reality, I think I will get a proper 2 post over time (even if it's lower riser)
Regards,
D
^^^^^
Since I moved and have two garage, one for the car I drive during the cycle and one I have in the "shop", I will be getting a maxjax at a minimum in the "shop". I have two windows, the 16' garage door and a side door so as previously mentioned my budget for the project no longer needs to include AC for the Texas heat so I am good. Some will need to be spent to add a section tracks to the overhead garage door. I can raise it another 26" which should allow me to keep the door up with a two poster, and certainly a maxjax.
Since I moved and have two garage, one for the car I drive during the cycle and one I have in the "shop", I will be getting a maxjax at a minimum in the "shop". I have two windows, the 16' garage door and a side door so as previously mentioned my budget for the project no longer needs to include AC for the Texas heat so I am good. Some will need to be spent to add a section tracks to the overhead garage door. I can raise it another 26" which should allow me to keep the door up with a two poster, and certainly a maxjax.
The hydraulics are a drawback to me for the following reasons:
1) I don't want to deal with leaking, couplers failing, fluid, etc.
2) The hydraulic power-pack cart thing that comes with hydraulic lifts, as small as it is, consumes precious precious floor space in the garage.
I like the midrise lifts as well, though the additional height is wasted on me (garage has 8 foot ceilings). I think the biggest issue with a midrise scissor lift is the issue of permanence. Floor space here is precious --- I can't just pack up that mid-rise scissor lift and store it on the wall right? I mean, those things are like 800 lbs right? I want the ability to reclaim all my garage floor space for other activities, like hosting Korean BBQ party. Yes people do that in garages here because you don't want all the smoke in the house.
I think compared to the QJ, the EZCL
- Is easier than QJ because it goes straight up and down without having the worry about a swinging arc.
- Is more fussy than the QJ because both sides must be connect by two cross bars (this links the two halves' screw drive mechanism) - these cross bars get removed / installed for max "collapse and store it on the wall" but the good news is that it is only 2 bolts per cross bar.
- No hydraulics to deal with / no power pack to store.
This fact actually, for me, makes EZCL more convenient than the QJ because the QJ BL-5000SLX requires no ramp-extenders for the 993, but then requires that I add ramp extenders for the w124.
I think if the EZCL can bring down the setup time from getting the car up in the air from 30 min for the QJ down to 15-20 min for the EZCL by eliminating the raising arc and subsequent repositioning, I would be pretty satisfied.
I found this to be a great rundown with LOTS of photographs - Experience with the EZ Car Lift.
This one with a Datsun 240Z was great too: Carl's Garage
This was a good video of assembly using an S2000 with great footage under the car on what it is like to work with the lift.
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For all of the reasons above for not using these expensive toys like no room in my 2 car garage. Wife’s “STUFF” takes more than 50% of the floor space. I need a can opener just to get my 500E door open 
Anyway, I will stick w/ my brand new
$110.00 Harbor Freight Jack and jack stands and work in the driveway. I’ve done this all my life no reason to change at this point
Anyway, I will stick w/ my brand new
$110.00 Harbor Freight Jack and jack stands and work in the driveway. I’ve done this all my life no reason to change at this point
HAHAHAHAHA @TerryA I have this same problem! The garage seems to be the automatic default for my wife to deposit unwanted bulky stuff (like huge and heavy ceramic planters), and I have to constantly be on the lookout that this condition does not fill up the garage with non-auto-non-tool-non-bicycle stuff!For all of the reasons above for not using these expensive toys like no room in my 2 car garage. Wife’s “STUFF” takes more than 50% of the floor space. I need a can opener just to get my 500E door open
Nice! I can't even work on my driveway. It is not level, and literally it is only 5 feet long.Anyway, I will stick w/ my brand new
$110.00 Harbor Freight Jack and jack stands and work in the driveway. I’ve done this all my life no reason to change at this point
I had to raise my garage door rails to accommodate a 4 post lift. Be aware that the spring system can be adjusted some, however not enough to prevent me from struggling with the weight of the door. I must prop it up with a pole and I'm not able to lift it completely due to the inadequate spring length.
You may be able to add additional springs although the physics at play are a little more complex. It did allow me to stack the cars, just barely.
Jlaa, I have lots of driveway. Just to 1-up you. I once backed out and heard a resounding “CRUNCH”. Got out to see what damage I had done to my car only to find a small wooden box under my left rear tire.HAHAHAHAHA @TerryA I have this same problem! The garage seems to be the automatic default for my wife to deposit unwanted bulky stuff (like huge and heavy ceramic planters), and I have to constantly be on the lookout that this condition does not fill up the garage with non-auto-non-tool-non-bicycle stuff!
Nice! I can't even work on my driveway. It is not level, and literally it is only 5 feet long.
No damage to the car but Wife was pissed about the antique box. At least that has never happened again
Well I priced a few places today for the type of lift below:
(Mine is Red with Black but otherwise identical to above with same cabinet etc)
Several local places are the same prices for the pro level this lift is at. £2400gbp. (There were a few interim options which didn't inspire confidence at all like below!)
So I got a deal on the Pro Level one after work this evening and should have it home by the weekend all being well.
I measured it in person this evening and it will take a long wheel base w220 which is about the longest car I'd have on it personally. It is super, super sturdy and gives great clearance below.
I imagine it would be ideal for dropping subframes etc, and if I wanted / had to remove the S600s engine this could be done with this lift. By supporting the front subframe and lift the shell up off the engine sitting there. It lifts the car 1100mm from floor level so this would have a car pretty much at my ceiling limit. Doesn't need air to power the locks and again those are very secure.
For me this is how to do it. Keep that one garage bay for the lift and it doesn't matter if it is permanently bolted to the floor. This will make brakes jobs and bodywork / welding etc MUCH easier. Not as good as a 2 post lift but it's what my garage will take until I get the extension which realistically will be 2023 at the earliest. And this lift will stay in the bay I am fitting it for good.
(Mine is Red with Black but otherwise identical to above with same cabinet etc)
Several local places are the same prices for the pro level this lift is at. £2400gbp. (There were a few interim options which didn't inspire confidence at all like below!)
So I got a deal on the Pro Level one after work this evening and should have it home by the weekend all being well.
I measured it in person this evening and it will take a long wheel base w220 which is about the longest car I'd have on it personally. It is super, super sturdy and gives great clearance below.
I imagine it would be ideal for dropping subframes etc, and if I wanted / had to remove the S600s engine this could be done with this lift. By supporting the front subframe and lift the shell up off the engine sitting there. It lifts the car 1100mm from floor level so this would have a car pretty much at my ceiling limit. Doesn't need air to power the locks and again those are very secure.
For me this is how to do it. Keep that one garage bay for the lift and it doesn't matter if it is permanently bolted to the floor. This will make brakes jobs and bodywork / welding etc MUCH easier. Not as good as a 2 post lift but it's what my garage will take until I get the extension which realistically will be 2023 at the earliest. And this lift will stay in the bay I am fitting it for good.
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Hahah ok, The first EZ lift 17 minute YouTube video you posted on Sunday was super painful to watch. Proper editing could have chopped off 14 minutes.
As for the advantage of hydraulics the car will lift and lower on a QJ at the speed of the S2000 in the EZ Lift video except in real time so it is seconds not minutes. Having said that lining up the jack points on an EZLift is easier.
Like others have mentioned the necessity of having ample space beside the car in order to slide the EZ lift under is a deal breaker for me. I do not have that kind of room in a single garage.
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Lol. These days I watch everything on Youtube with my finger hovering over the "right arrow" key to speed things through.
For a single car garage (which I must admit I have a dual-width garage, however narrow) they have a "Limited Space Kit." It allows you to drive over the the 1.25" cross spacers.
EZ CAR LIFT - FREE-STANDING USE-ANYWHERE CAR LIFT! FAST. SAFE. STRONG.EASY.
EZ Car Lift - Free-standing, Take Anywhere Car Lift. Safely lift 4,400 lbs up to 26 inches in under 140 seconds.
www.ezcarlift.com
I have no financial interest in this company, I'm just impressed that this guy (yeah, its a single guy that has been selling his invention for like 16 years) has, over the years, introduced more and more features/add-ons to accommodate any possible use case. I feel like this is the small-biz American entrepreneur's dream and I applaud it ---
I thought it was cool how the video shows what happens if you use the LSK rubber pads INCORRECTLY and the undesirable side effects that can happen. I thought to myself, "this guy is a true engineer ---- he's not a slick marketing dept..." A corporate marketing dept would never release of video of someone using their products *incorrectly*
FWIW I thought it was extra cool that the guy uses a Chevrolet Corvair to demonstrate this kit!
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I have used hydraulic front ramps before which are bolted to the garage floor. Then raise the car up and use tall and stable 6 tonne Jack stands to support it. That gets pretty high this was my S430 back during the weldathon;
It is that same garage spot which will have the scissor lift next which will lift the car literally to the ceiling joist level.
I have decent garage space and yard space etc but it's all taken up with cars and spare parts! As a result garage storage space is very tight and every shelf spot taken until I extend to take 4x more cars inside all being well
It is that same garage spot which will have the scissor lift next which will lift the car literally to the ceiling joist level.
I have decent garage space and yard space etc but it's all taken up with cars and spare parts! As a result garage storage space is very tight and every shelf spot taken until I extend to take 4x more cars inside all being well
I went and collected my scissor lift today and got it unloaded off the trailer with my engine hoist no issues.
It is on dollies now and in carport so I can wheel it around and into my back garage within the next 48 hrs all being well and get the S430 up on it and kick-start the completion of that project also.
This lift is less than 6 months old and had very little use. It was a detailer who bought it but he is actually producing his own line of wash chemicals and therefore does not use the lift anymore.
I spotted the add for it at the same time as looking up the prices from the suppliers directly. Basically it is as new still and I saved almost a grand off the MSRP.
Another thing to consider with a purchase like this is they are always sought after and the resale value is high.
It is on dollies now and in carport so I can wheel it around and into my back garage within the next 48 hrs all being well and get the S430 up on it and kick-start the completion of that project also.
This lift is less than 6 months old and had very little use. It was a detailer who bought it but he is actually producing his own line of wash chemicals and therefore does not use the lift anymore.
I spotted the add for it at the same time as looking up the prices from the suppliers directly. Basically it is as new still and I saved almost a grand off the MSRP.
Another thing to consider with a purchase like this is they are always sought after and the resale value is high.
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BTW... to be clear, I do not have the cylinder / rod spring door setup that is very dangerous to work on. I have the other setup where springs are under no tension when the door is raised. These systems are very easy and safe to work on for anyone with basic mechanical skills.
For anyone curious this is the sort of access a mid rise scissor lift gives below your car. This is my S430 LWB awaiting its resealed engine back in.
Brake jobs whilst seated- that's what I call luxury!
As a point in reference this lift is 1m high or a smidge over. Due to my garage ceiling ht I am using the smallest 1 inch blocks on the ramp. If you had a higher ceiling you can use the taller blocks so would lift another 100mm or so higher again.
In this low configuration I am 6.2 and the door handles are at my head height. Perfect for what it is dealing with a ceiling height limitation.
Ps My garage is a tip I am in the process of re organising and tidying things up as I hate it when it gets like that.
Brake jobs whilst seated- that's what I call luxury!
As a point in reference this lift is 1m high or a smidge over. Due to my garage ceiling ht I am using the smallest 1 inch blocks on the ramp. If you had a higher ceiling you can use the taller blocks so would lift another 100mm or so higher again.
In this low configuration I am 6.2 and the door handles are at my head height. Perfect for what it is dealing with a ceiling height limitation.
Ps My garage is a tip I am in the process of re organising and tidying things up as I hate it when it gets like that.
Joe,The more I am looking at this the more I am thinking of going for a Mid Rise Scissor Lift. These can raise up to 1m high generally and appear very sturdy for not much more £££.
AS-7532B 3.2T Mid Rise Scissor Lift - Automotech Services Limited
The AS-7532B Mid rise scissor lift is surface mounted giving a low profile of just 110mm. Its unique design gives a clear working area between the platforms when the vehicle is being worked on. An ideal lift for busy body repair shops or tyre bays. Features Lifting capacity 3.2T Lifting height...www.automotechservices.co.uk
I need to get a forking garage spot available first though - S320 Going then back to S430 to get it out of garage then order one in Autumn. There is place in Ireland that does them so I'll order from them and budget on it being about £1.5 - 2k GBP for a professional grade lift like in the link above.
The trouble is the like of W140s are heavy., heavy cars and no matter what the load rating says I think I would be nervous with a W140 perched on top of a quickjack.
I also didnt realise the Quick Jacks move forward - these ones lift directly vertical so better for tight spaces like my garage.
View attachment 146236
i have had the similar 7530 for over 6 years now. I haven’t lifted the GL with it (I would need to wheel it out of the garage due to headroom and despite it saying “portable” it’s almost half a ton, and small wheels on block paving means it’s a struggle) but it’s coped with the SEC, SLs and quite heavy S211s. Knowing how solid the lift is means I am very reluctant to go under a car on axle stands, and only use them as a support when I’m say changing discs and pads on the drive. Automech were good to deal with too.
Every car I have is happy to park over it, without grounding out, so it just stays where it is when it’s not got a car raised in the air.
Steve
It seems your ship as arrived ..... Now Costco has the new, improved Quickjack 5000TL (as opposed to the old BL-5000SLX) on sale for $1399, inclusive of shipping and handling and including the "massive rip off wall hanging brackets" that @Sam SL mentioned! https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5000tl-portable-car-lift-bundle.product.100833721.html
The difference is that the new model goes 3" higher. I am seriously considering this now.
Also reading the website, it looks like the powerunit has been redesigned.
I like the way the EZcarlift goes straight up and down w/ no hydraulics to leak and no arc motion, however:
a) QJ car start lifting at only 3" off the floor. the EZcarlift needs 4.5" with the casters on the lifting ramp, and you need to let it lift unloaded for the first inch. My sport-beetle is too low for this.
b) EZCL requires the cross bars to be assembled every time you use it (unless you store it as a square instead of two individual ramps) because the cross bars is the synchronizing mechanism between the two ramps. That increases time spent. QJ doesn't need this.
hmmmm
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@darek_u, @a777fan, @Sam SL, @dreaming.haze Can you guys speak a bit more about what seems to be a common complaint - leaking hydraulic houses and couplers? I seem to read about it a lot. The manual appears to try to address this by being very specific about how liquid thread sealer or teflon tape is to be used, but I am not sure if this helped the issue or not:
I compared the manual for the older SLX series with the newer TL series and it seems the manual is 99% the same. Aside from the additional 3" in height, The only real difference I could find was a different specification on the power pack - the new one is heavier and has higher operating pressure. No idea what this does.
I personally haven’t had any leakage issues at the hoses and couplings. My hydraulic unit itself is a bit of a mess, but I believe most of that has to do with my less than precise reservoir filling techniques.
I had a faulty coupler that leaked and replaced. There is a breather hole on the power unit that a tiny bit of fluid might mist out of when the ramps are lowering. When attaching or detaching the couplers a bit of seepage may occur. Overall nothing to worry about but I always have a rag in my hand to keep everything clean and dry so dust do not accumulate. I imagine a tiny piece of grit in the coupler would not be good for the seals.
@Jlaa - Unsure on what the manual says for torque on the quick fit hose connections, but whatever it says I needed to go well beyond the listed value. They provide liquid thread sealant, but this didn't work out in my application. The key I'd say is to have a bench vise you can utilize to hold onto the fittings while putting in some healthy torque. I needed to use a helper bar to ensure I was getting proper torque. Anything less was leaking the ATF fluid used as hydraulic fluid.
Now that everything is setup and together, It is a faint memory that taints my usage of the unit.
Now that everything is setup and together, It is a faint memory that taints my usage of the unit.
Well!
I bought the QuickJack 5000TL on Black Friday sale at Home Depot, and was able to get an additional little bit off using my contractor pricing. I finally decided to get the QJ because the EZCL is too high to be used with my Sport Beetle unless I raise the Sport Beetle on some 2x4s first. Ugh. Anyways, I ordered my QJ from Home Depot on a Sunday and I received the whole kit by Wed. My QJ shipped with Rev A of the manual, dated Dec 2020.
@dreaming.haze I let the liquid thread sealant cure for 24 hours before putting the fittings in a bench vise as you suggested and torquing them down to 25 lb-ft. 25 lb-ft sure felt like a LOT OF TORQUE for the fittings that take the quick couplings, but
.... that's what the manual instructed. I then waited another 24 hours (48 hours total) before subjecting those fittings to hydraulic pressureThat manual also specified 25 lb-ft on the short-hoses where they connect to the elbow on the hydraulic cylinders.
Jeez, 25 lb-ft sure felt like A LOT of torque for this little fittings, and this is what I ended up with:
That didn't look good. So I contacted QuickJack (Bend-Pak) who promptly told me to IGNORE the 25 lb-ft spec and follow manual Rev B1 dated Sep 2021, which said to turn the fitting on the short hoses only 2-3 turns or until snug. Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhh yeah.
They also sent me two new short hoses + fittings and apologized for the wrong specs in the Rev A1 manual.Anyways after that snafu, I hooked everything up and ...... it all works!!!! Yahoo!!! No leaks. The QJ has some radial shift -- i.e. the car will shift backwards or forwards about 14" while being raised to max height depending out the way you orient the QJs.
In these pictures I am about 2" shy of max height because I oriented the QJs incorrectly such that my Sport Beetle was radial shifting INTO the garage as it went up ..... and I did not want to raise the SB more such that it would crash into Big Red behind it!!
FWIW - I attached these roller bearings - two 5/8" bearings and two 1" bearings on the underside of the QJ ..... this way the QJ is EASY PEASY to move around the floor and position under the car just so. Even though each QJ is 75+ lbs, I can just push / pull it with one hand, *easily* for optimium placement. Since these bearings are placed on the bottom of the arms that go up, when the QJ is lifted, the bearings do not touch the floor and the QJ is ultra stable.
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I love this idea! I'm going to make something similar. Congratulations on the purchase BTW. I hope you will enjoy it!
I was looking at this one. Made in Germany but a little pricey at 5k. 3 feet of lift height and you can keep it on your floor when you park the car.
Slightly lower spec, but half the price:
Low rise Scissors Lift - 6600 lbs
Low rise Scissors Lift - 6600 lbs: Pick up in North Las Vegas, you are welcome to visit our showroom. As shipping costs are different for all 48 ...
www.twinbusch.com
Quite the price difference!
Yup, German made versus "German Designed(Made in China)"
I haven't read anything negative about Twin Busch products, other than the designs are derivative. The "Made in China" part wouldn't scare me off. I've got USA made and China made 4 posts lifts sourced from the same family of companies and I think the Chinese ones have better finishes and operate exactly the same and the USA made ones.
$0.02
I haven't read anything negative about Twin Busch products, other than the designs are derivative. The "Made in China" part wouldn't scare me off. I've got USA made and China made 4 posts lifts sourced from the same family of companies and I think the Chinese ones have better finishes and operate exactly the same and the USA made ones.
$0.02
Here's a thread on GJ from last year where I was trying to identify the TB scissor lift:
www.garagejournal.com
The retailer that is mentioned, "Obsessed Garage" which is some sort of garage lifestyle retialer/social media outfit now sells the Nussbaum lifts. Would be good to know if it was because of profit margin or quality....
Plz identify this scissor lift
Anybody know the manufacturer and model of this high lift scissor unit?
www.garagejournal.com
The retailer that is mentioned, "Obsessed Garage" which is some sort of garage lifestyle retialer/social media outfit now sells the Nussbaum lifts. Would be good to know if it was because of profit margin or quality....
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Where did you go to buy the bearings?
Why did you go with 2 different sizes, reach?
In post 79, you can see in photo 8 that I used small bearings. This is because I tried to minimize the increase in QJ collapsed height with the addition of the bearings on the outer arms. With these bearings, I estimate the increase in height to be 1/4”. In photo 9, you can see I used larger bearings. The reason why this is is because I mounted these bearing not on the outer arms, but on the backside of a recessed inner connecting plate. Since this plate is recessed, one can use a much much larger bearing until one starts to affect the collapsed QJ height.
Attachments
Looks like you glued a piece of wood to the plate 3/4"?
I'd say in this case it makes little to no difference if the scissor lift was made in Germany or China. For the home user any branded Lift is going to give many years / decades of service.
This is one rare case where I would not bother with German made. Speaking from experience with my own scissor lift which was made in China but a UK brand it is high quality and I have been inside the control board etc checking it all out.
I think the Twin Busch would be a good lift. Scissor lifts have the advantage of lifting straight up and taller than the quick jacks which helps in a confined garage space.
I did consider the quick jacks but went for a scissor lift in the end up mostly because I did not like the idea of perching a C140 behemoth on top of anything less
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FWIW --- Quickjack suggests that you keep the air cylinders charged to 50 PSI, so that the QJ, when lowering the last few inches, collapses evenly side-to-side and completely.
I attached a gauge to the air cylinders via a 1/8" NPT T-fitting. I first tried 60 psi, then 100 psi, then 160 psi, then finally settled on a 200 psi gauge. The air cylinders get up to 175 psi when the QJ is raised to maximum height.
I attached a gauge to the air cylinders via a 1/8" NPT T-fitting. I first tried 60 psi, then 100 psi, then 160 psi, then finally settled on a 200 psi gauge. The air cylinders get up to 175 psi when the QJ is raised to maximum height.
What was the final price?Well!
I bought the QuickJack 5000TL on Black Friday sale at Home Depot, and was able to get an additional little bit off using my contractor pricing. I finally decided to get the QJ because the EZCL is too high to be used with my Sport Beetle unless I raise the Sport Beetle on some 2x4s first. Ugh. Anyways, I ordered my QJ from Home Depot on a Sunday and I received the whole kit by Wed. My QJ shipped with Rev A of the manual, dated Dec 2020.
@dreaming.haze I let the liquid thread sealant cure for 24 hours before putting the fittings in a bench vise as you suggested and torquing them down to 25 lb-ft. 25 lb-ft sure felt like a LOT OF TORQUE for the fittings that take the quick couplings, but
That manual also specified 25 lb-ft on the short-hoses where they connect to the elbow on the hydraulic cylinders.
Jeez, 25 lb-ft sure felt like A LOT of torque for this little fittings, and this is what I ended up with:
[ATTACH alt=Cocked Fitting Sequence - All.jpg]158140[/ATTACH] [ATTACH alt=Short Hose Fitting #1 - b.jpeg]158141[/ATTACH] [ATTACH alt=Short Hose Fitting #2 - b.jpeg]158142[/ATTACH]
That didnt look good. So I contacted QuickJack (Bend-Pak) who promptly told me to IGNORE the 25 lb-ft spec and follow manual Rev B1 dated Sep 2021, which said to turn the fitting on the short hoses only 2-3 turns or until snug. Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhh yeah.
Anyways after that snafu, I hooked everything up and ...... it all works!!!! Yahoo!!! No leaks. The QJ has some radial shift -- i.e. the car will shift backwards or forwards about 14 while being raised to max height depending out the way you orient the QJs.
In these pictures I am about 2 shy of max height because I oriented the QJs incorrectly such that my Sport Beetle was radial shifting INTO the garage as it went up ..... and I did not want to raise the SB more such that it would crash into Big Red behind it!!
View attachment 158143 View attachment 158144 View attachment 158145 View attachment 158146
FWIW - I attached these roller bearings - two 5/8 bearings and two 1 bearings on the underside of the QJ ..... this way the QJ is EASY PEASY to move around the floor and position under the car just so. Even though each QJ is 75+ lbs, I can just push / pull it with one hand, *easily* for optimium placement. Since these bearings are placed on the bottom of the arms that go up, when the QJ is lifted, the bearings do not touch the floor and the QJ is ultra stable.
View attachment 158147 View attachment 158148
@Jlaa still happy with QJ?
I have much maintenance to be done this spring: Transmission and diff fluids to be changed on both E350's and SL320, slave and master cylinder change on 944, brakes on 2007 E350, so I bit the bullet and ordered 5000TL from HomeDepot QUICKJACK Portable Car Lift 5,000 lbs. Capacity 5175630 - The Home Depot I had an extra coupon and a gift card... Should be here on March 30th.
I do appreciate the pointers and the details of the tightening down couplers, same with the air/gauge, definitely useful!
The older I get, the more valuable my time and comfort of how I get things done becomes, so I do look forward to this little set.
Regards,
D
I have much maintenance to be done this spring: Transmission and diff fluids to be changed on both E350's and SL320, slave and master cylinder change on 944, brakes on 2007 E350, so I bit the bullet and ordered 5000TL from HomeDepot QUICKJACK Portable Car Lift 5,000 lbs. Capacity 5175630 - The Home Depot I had an extra coupon and a gift card... Should be here on March 30th.
I do appreciate the pointers and the details of the tightening down couplers, same with the air/gauge, definitely useful!
The older I get, the more valuable my time and comfort of how I get things done becomes, so I do look forward to this little set.
Regards,
D
Yes @Duh_Vinci, I love it. I am not nearly a capable wrench as you, but after using the QJ for several months, I have come to really enjoy this thing. It takes me 15 minutes to take it off the wall and put the car up in the air, so I wouldn't really say that it is QUICKjack. More like MODERATELYPACEDJack. However, I really like it because it takes almost alllllllll the anxiety away when lifting the car up..... Jacks and Jacks Stands are so anxiety-causing for me. I value the anxiety reduction qualities of this thing. (and quite frankly it it built like a tank).
The photos I have here are from early this week - I used the MODERATELYPACEDJack to soak the scheisse out of the O2 sensor with Kroil and PB Blaster. The photos show the 500E at full height since one set of lift blocks (but not 2 sets stacked, which would be 3" higher or so). Anyways I am anticipating a fight with this oxygen sensor, which is why I was thinking about getting a closed end wrench on it and then using an air hammer on the wrench.
First, let me say that you are waaaay to modest, Kind Sir!
I can only imagine how helpful this setup would have been when I removed transmission out of the car some years back! So I do look forward to having this in the garage just in time for the spring service!
Thank you all for sharing your experiences and ideas, appreciate it!
Regards,
D
^^^^That!!! I appreciate you sharing this, as that, despite of many many many times being under the cars, is exactly how I feel lifting the car to the levels where I need to be completely under! And let's face it, it's kind of like a "balancing act" lift some here, go to the other side or rear, lift some more, repeat, repeat, repeat, etc...
I can only imagine how helpful this setup would have been when I removed transmission out of the car some years back! So I do look forward to having this in the garage just in time for the spring service!
Thank you all for sharing your experiences and ideas, appreciate it!
Regards,
D
This 2-3 turns, I'm a little confused by that, how many degrees is that, the 2-3 turns?
Also, I watched their setup video, didn't see any teflon applied to the elbow fittings?
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