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Rear wheel carrier joint bushing

500AMM

500AMM

500E explorer
Member
Hi.

I recently ordered the rear wheel carrier joint bushings at Parts.com, and they reported a PN change. The 220 352 00 27 is now replaced with 204 352 00 27. The EPC I'm using, ran by SnapOn, doesn't pull this PN for the 036, so maybe it's not updated yet. I hope the removal/installation tool still fits for the new part.
 
Hi Arnt. I'm not sure what a rear wheel carrier joint bushing is, so out of curiosity I pulled up my EPC and couldn't find either part number you mentioned above for a 124.036 (I used a friend's 93 500E VIN). Would my EPC be different here in the US? Would this part be located under rear axle or under springs, suspension and hydraulics?
 
It will be in the EPC under rear axle / subframe, I believe. Pics of the joint can be found here.

The number has been superceded/replaced several times already, so I'm not surprised it changed yet again...

Lemfoerder_joint.jpg


:matrix:
 
What year is your EPC? Also, it sometimes takes a while for the EPC to update, and the supercession is only noted in the part ordering system... sometimes the EPC is never updated.

:(
 
I'm not sure what year my EPC is. I thought Mercedes updated it in real time, but like you said, it may only be updated in another system. I have to sign on with a user name and password Mercedes provided. I didn't realize there was more than one EPC.

In any case, it looks like this rear wheel carrier joint bushing is something you have replaced on your car. Is this a common wear problem on the 124's and, if so, how can you tell when it needs changed?
 
Sounds like you are using the online EPC-Net, which should be the most up-to-date. There are also "standalone" EPC's available on DVD which you can install on your computer which do not require internet access (and therefore are usually faster). Again, the EPC is not always updated, sometimes the part number supercession is not updated in the EPC for years, if ever.

Anyway, yes, this joint is a fairly common problem. Most of the time you can see the seal cracked and broken, in which case the joint should be replaced. In extreme cases it can cause a very loud creaking noise once the grease dries out. I've replaced the joint on most of my 124's already. They're usually due for replacement by 150-200kmi. It's been reported that a worn joint can cause excess negative camber but I've not personally verified that.

:seesaw:
 
Thanks, Dave. I'll have to check mine out when I get back in town. Is it a very big job to change these? I see it requires a special tool.
 
It's a minor nuisance but not terrible. You may need to remove the brake rotor and bend the dust shield away to make room, just make sure to bend it back enough so the rotor doesn't touch the shield. This may vary depending on the size of the shield (somewhere in mid-93 MB changed to the larger dust shields even though the USA rear brakes didn't change size). The aftermarket tool is a bit over $100.

The factory Mercedes tool (click here) is p/n: 202-589-00-43-00

UPDATE: The factory tool had been $250+ but is now around $150 as of 2015; $175-$200 as of July 2019; ~$220 as of June 2025.


79.jpg

:banana1:
 
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Thanks. I'll check mine out. If it looks like they are bad, I may be asking you where I can get the aftermarket tool.
 
gsxr said:
.......................

Anyway, yes, this joint is a fairly common problem. Most of the time you can see the seal cracked and broken, in which case the joint should be replaced. In extreme cases it can cause a very loud creaking noise once the grease dries out. I've replaced the joint on most of my 124's already. They're usually due for replacement by 150-200kmi. It's been reported that a worn joint can cause excess negative camber but I've not personally verified that.
.......................
Click to expand...
I am replacing the bushings on my Limited, 217.500km, and they are very worn. When I replaced the springs and lowered the LCA (lower control arm), I could move the LCA quite much around the joint, so it is quite flabby. Just as you say Dave, I suspect the neg.camber has increased a bit too. I also have 10mm spacers (with EVO II wheels) which provokes to increased neg.camber.

:banana1:
 
Arnt,

I just replaced these bushings on my car at about 133,000 miles. Actually I bought the bushings and paid an MB Tech.

It is pretty easy to tell if they are bad. Take the plastic dust shield off of the LCA and just look at it.
If you can push on the rubber you can see on the edge of the bushing with a screwdriver or even a pencil and it is soft or mushy then it need to be replaced.
You will see when you get the new bushings that the rubber is pretty hard.

I was amazed to find only that bushing worn out all of the others were in great condition.
 
I have a loud creak from my left rear suspension that occurs with any compression of the left rear suspension ( i.e. going over speed bumps). I wasnt sure what this was until I read this thread.

Interestingly, as the weather has cooled here in the Northeast, the squeak has gone away.....is that typical for the rear wheel carrier joint bushing?
 
TerryA said:
Arnt,

I just replaced these bushings on my car at about 133,000 miles. Actually I bought the bushings and paid an MB Tech.

It is pretty easy to tell if they are bad. Take the plastic dust shield off of the LCA and just look at it.
If you can push on the rubber you can see on the edge of the bushing with a screwdriver or even a pencil and it is soft or mushy then it need to be replaced.
You will see when you get the new bushings that the rubber is pretty hard.

I was amazed to find only that bushing worn out all of the others were in great condition.
Click to expand...
Terry,

Thanks for the recommendation and sharing experience. Strange that all the other links/bushings didn't show any wear then. Maybe the rear wheel carrier joint bushing are the most loaded bushing in there.

Based on that huge freeplay I noticed I've already ordered new bushing, they are soon on the way over the pond. But if they're not too bad though, I keep the new ones as spares.

Cheers
 
The aftermarket tool is $100-$120, last I checked, and it works decently well. The OE tool is nicer but it ain't cheap, as Andy noted...

:spend:
 
Yes, I bought the BAUM tool, so I am giving it a go. Will try to take some pix. Will be selling the tool shortly thereafter if anyone is interested.
 
Egreaves20 said:
Yes, I bought the BAUM tool, so I am giving it a go. Will try to take some pix. Will be selling the tool shortly thereafter if anyone is interested.
Click to expand...

Please document the R&R.....I will have to tackle this job soon as well. May be interested in the Baum tool when u are done with it.
 
Was a successful job. Relatively easy nut and bolt work. Took 3 hours to figure out the steps, would take 2 hours to do again.

remove brake caliper
remove brake rotor
bend dust shield to gain access
remove plastic contol arm cover (2 10mm bolts)
remove lower shock bolt
remove lower sway bar link bolt
remove lower carrier bolt
remove bushing using baum tool
reassemble in reverse order

Hope this was helpful. Now I need to do is the passenger side.
 

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Very helpful! Thanks for the how to with pics! :worshippy:

Your old bushing was nasty......what kind of symptoms were you having that prompted you to replace the bushing?
 
Thanks. My symptom was a low speed light clunking type noise. Hard to describe, but once I change the passenger side, I will be able to tell if it gone. The old bushing was so shot that the metal guide inside the bushing was definitely hitting the outer bushing metal when compressed.
 
Egreaves20 said:
remove brake caliper
remove brake rotor
bend dust shield to gain access
remove plastic contol arm cover (2 10mm bolts)
remove lower shock bolt
remove lower sway bar link bolt
remove lower carrier bolt
remove bushing using baum tool
reassemble in reverse order
Click to expand...
FYI. You don't need to remove the shock or sway bar link bolts, or support the control arm. Once the carrier bolt is removed, push the wheel carrier upward out of the control arm. Everything else is pretty much the same though. Nice work!

:jono:
 
Dave.....I have a squeak from my driver side rear suspension, heard mostly at low speeds over small bumps/speed bumps. I can also reproduce the squeak just pushing down on the rear bumper. I was thinking its the carrier bushing, but Egreaves20 described a clunk, not a squeak, so I am wondering if I may have another problem? Any thoughts?
 
The carrier bushing can definitely cause a squeak. A very loud squeak, if the bushing is completely dry. It's not very common but it is possible. My sister's W124 had this and the squeak/creak noise was incredibly loud.

:mushroom:
 
gsxr said:
FYI. You don't need to remove the shock or sway bar link bolts, or support the control arm. Once the carrier bolt is removed, push the wheel carrier upward out of the control arm. Everything else is pretty much the same though. Nice work!
Click to expand...

I just replaced the passenger side carrier bushing, took me 45 mins with this tip. Thanks.
 
Congrats! IMO, the worst part of the job (assuming the old bushings come out without a fight) is getting the brake dust shield bent back enough so it doesn't rub the rotor.

I think with the large dust shield (used from late 1993 to end of production) you don't need to bend the dust shield, but it's been a while since I've done this...

:banana2:
 
I guess I will do these bushings when I upgrade to the rear silver arrow calipers and new rotors.

EGreaves20....let me know when you are ready to sell the Baum tool.
 
Add me to the "I need it" list as well. Do we have a tool rental/pass along thread? Ship and bit to offset original cost plus a promise to return would be a huge help for these one time tools. Got to be a large pool of tools out there.
 
Just figured I'd post a pic of the recipient of 2 new carrier bushings, running great at 169k miles.

Unless anyone knows what else the Baum tool can be used for, I am happy to sell it. Paid $160 just a week ago.
 

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AFAIK, it's a single-purpose tool that doesn't fit any other bushings on the car. If you own any other Mercedes, change those bushings while you still have the tool...

:mushroom:
 
Yep it's mine for now....thanks Egreaves 20! :tongueout:

I will update this thread when I finish the job....may be awhile because I am combining it with the Silver Arrow rear brake upgrade. :deniro:

Be happy to sell the tool along to the next guy when I am done with it :checker:
 
I did this job on both my rear knuckles last night. I also installed new LCAs. Very straightforward. I do need new plastic retainers for the brake wear sensors as they did not survive the transplant :D

A few notes on LCA and knuckle bushing replacement:
1. I used a floor jack to control removal of the spring. I disconnected the inner LCA bolt after adding a bit of tension with the floor jack. Loosen all of the other hardware you will remove before pulling the bolt. From there, pull the bolt and dropped the inner LCA down.
2. When I used the install tool, make sure to use some rubber lubricant (I used a silicon rubber lubricant from napa. SylGly or something like that) on the boots. The lubricant may protect the boot from tearing if it somehow gets caught up on something.
3. Also, make sure the boot is completely tucked in the install mandrel. If it were pinched between the outer housing and mandrel, I believe the boot could be destroyed.
4. I used some motor oil on the outer bushing to afford a bit of lubricant during the install process.
 
Here are the remains of my old bushings. May they rest in peace. Lets offer a moment of silence for their honorable service
image.jpg
 
Rumor has it that new support joints can increase rear camber by half degree, maybe one full degree, helping with rear tire wear. I don't think many folks check before/after though.

:mushroom:
 
gsxr said:
Rumor has it that new support joints can increase rear camber by half degree, maybe one full degree, helping with rear tire wear. I don't think many folks check before/after though.

:mushroom:
Click to expand...
I will check camber soon and report back. I measured it within days, prior. My joints weren't totally sloppy, though they were loose. But, they would have been soon if water and more dirt penetrated. The rear with the new LCAs feels a noticeably tighter, though. Baby stepping towards a totally dialed car.

Doug

Doug
 
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