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SOLD 1993 500eE, Pearl Black / Cream Beige, 167,500 miles, asking $28.5K (Pittsburgh, PA)

Godiva99

Active member
Member
Folks . . . I am in need to reduce the number of vehicles and am looking to sell at least one or (preferably) two of the 5 vehicles I currently own. These would be my 2008 BMW 528i (6M, all options) and my 1993 500e. I am putting this out to the community here (which I have been an embarrassingly inactive part of for the past ~ 15 years) to get a feel for what these vehicles – specifically the 500e, might be worth. Barring a “perfect fit” and sale to someone on the forum, I am considering an auction on the MB Market site as I have heard BAT is “out of favor” and it seems that 500e’s are seen (and sold) regularly on that site.


HISTORY

This is my 2nd 500e. First was owned from 2009-2012. In 2015, sellers’ remorse led me to purchase this vehicle, which was originally an Arizona car purchased by prior owner in Missouri ~ 2009. I am the 5th owner and have records for myself and the P.O., who had significant work done to body and mechanicals, primarily by Holton Import Service (Indy shop) – located in Ridgeland MS. I purchased the car from P.O. in 2015 when I lived in Reading, PA – having work done there by Bryner Raudibaugh at KAM Specialties (also an Independent shop – Bryner specializes in older Mercedes work) and Foreign Traffic after moving to Pittsburgh in 2018. As I had not been driving it much, I did take it off the road (meaning stopped registering/inspecting) between 2018-2021. During that time it remained fully insured, and garaged, and I did start it up and idle for 5-10 minutes every 2-3 weeks, and took it out for ~ 5 mile trips every 4-6 weeks.

Attached is a .pdf conversion of an excel file summarizing the work done by P.O., and work done under my ownership. Apologies, as the pdf is difficult to read but it seems that attaching an excel file is a no no. Work done by P.O. totaled ~ $15K (excluding paintwork – see below - and front seat recovering); Work done during my ownership ~ $6.5K (excluding wear items - tires, brakes, oil changes). Total mileage put on the vehicle between us (since 2009 ) is 10K miles. I am borrowing a DSLR and will be photographing the entire vehicle, (including undercarriage) this week. I have hard copy and .pdf’s of all of the individual repair orders and invoices that I will include with the full photo shoot.

Last year I bought an EV … assuming I sell the 2 aforementioned vehicles, it will leave me with only one classic/interesting vehicle (1986 XJ-6 series iii VDP) which is a bit of a project car, but one that I find I am always wanting to take out (vs. the 500e – sorry !?!). Hopefully the sale of these vehicles will mitigate any divorce proceedings from my better half (ha ha) !


Here is a summary of the 500e - Good and the Bad:


GOOD
  • Outstanding body and paintwork (10+ years old . . . perhaps it’s age allays concerns about hidden rust vs. a more recent paint job). P.O. advised he spent $7K on the paint (~ 2010) I have no receipt for that work. Apparently completed by a highly accomplished painter who had personal “issues”. I assume it was cash deal. When I had PPF applied to headlights at a detail shop in Lancaster, PA, I was told it was one of the nicest aftermarket paint jobs they had seen. I’m not an expert, but I can say is it looks very, very nice to me.
  • Mechanically excellent – taking care of issues as they arise (interior exceptions noted). Wiring harness and significant engine / drivetrain work done by P.O. in the 157-160K mileage.
  • Primarily stock – w/ exceptions:
    • painted grill (I also have the original)
    • Euro headlights with PPF applied (stone chip on headlight, now covered with PPF)
    • 17” EVO II wheels
    • smoked tail lights
    • recently replacement windshield (Fuyao - I was told they were the only mfg they could find)
    • Front seats recovered by P.O. – in great condition, but possibly done without replacing pads as they feel less bolstered than my prior 500e
  • Drives as it should – strong acceleration/braking, no pulling, squeaks, rattles, noises, etc


BAD
  • Despite beautiful paint, there are a few nicks / dings on drivers rear QP. That panel is apparently the magnet for garage mishaps (all but one there prior to my ownership). I never had them addressed because they didn’t bother me (terribly) – have provide a couple up-close photos of these defects (white specs above fender crease line)
  • The (attached) Carfax shows an accident that had occurred in 1998. My mechanic in Reading was unable to find evidence of the accident when I purchased the car - and it had been repainted by P.O. in 2010. Perhaps once the full photo shoot is taken you guys will be able to figure it out ? ?
  • Interior, in general, is original (excepting aforementioned front seats which have been recovered)
    • Rear seats have “patina” and some stitching issues at stress points
    • I replaced PO’s JVC radio with a more aesthetically pleasing Continental with Bluetooth and phone capability. This is listed under “bad” because it is only working through door panel speakers (I need to pull it and figure out why) and because I cannot vouch for functionality of the original radio (which I have), nor the trunk mounted CD changer
    • All wood, except door panels, needs replaced
    • Steering wheel has aftermarket leather cover, but needs a proper removal and professional recovering. I am considering to do that prior to sale, if anyone has suggestions for best way to accomplish this ?
    • Most dash HVAC buttons could use replacement (white print smudged from finger oils)
    • Rear shade button missing – I can’t vouch for the shade’s functionality
    • Door panel leather pleating has been lost (presumably AZ heat ?), and door pockets have typical “pulling”
    • Rear center brake lamp “disintegrated”. Must have been original and due to being AZ car the plastic failed terribly. I tried to replace the bulb and the entire assy (which had previously been glued in multiple places) literally crumbled in my hands. I have been watching ebay to try to find an original in good condition but unsuccessful to date.
  • ABS / ASR lights come on – typically anywhere from 30 seconds – 10 minutes after starting the car. Mechanics advised it’s no throwing codes. IIRC there have been a couple threads indicating this as an issue a few others have had and it’s been traced to a wiring issue
  • Hood insulation pad missing. I have a brand new replacement pad (with slight damage) that I have been afraid to install (not wanting to improperly prep or glue).
  • Plastic protective aero panel (under front of car) is off . . . it has a couple of fastening points that have become enlarged – needs replaced.

That’s pretty much it . . . I have done my best to provide an accurate representation of the car. I appreciate any advice forum members might have, specifically on price range (best case / worst case) and on pros/cons for the various avenues of putting the car up for sale . . . MB Market, P-Cars, BAT, Cars & Bids, FB Marketplace, etc. I have also been in contact with a local PBGH Mercedes enthusiast / part time dealer (and judge at the annual Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix) and may use him to help with the sale.

I will do my best to check in 1 or 2X per day to respond to questions, inquiries and advice, and will work to get full set of DSLR photos uploaded. I may need help on how to do that without overloading file size limits ?


Doug
 

Attachments

Last edited by a moderator:
VIN = WDBEA36E7PB880960

Previous For Sale thread at this link.

Doug, the forum has size limits for both file size (8MB max) and also pixel dimensions (5000 x 5000 max). If you use a DSLR and plan to upload the raw JPEG files without reducing/compressing them via Photoshop or other image processing photo, set your DSLR to Medium or Low/Small resolution in settings - that should help. Take 1 or 2 test photos and see if they upload, before doing the full photo shoot.

:strawberry:
 
VIN = WDBEA36E7PB880960

Previous For Sale thread at this link.

Doug, the forum has size limits for both file size (8MB max) and also pixel dimensions (5000 x 5000 max). If you use a DSLR and plan to upload the raw JPEG files without reducing/compressing them via Photoshop or other image processing photo, set your DSLR to Medium or Low/Small resolution in settings - that should help. Take 1 or 2 test photos and see if they upload, before doing the full photo shoot.

:strawberry:
Thanks for the info re photo downloading. The prior thread is the one from when I purchased the car in 2015. To answer a few of the questions in that thread . . .17" EVO II wheels are painted (not chrome), the older air intake tube was replaced by me (so now matchy-matchy , , , or at least very close). Headliner is in great condition - not sure if PO replaced it when car was painted or just lucky. My guess is the former because being an AZ car for 16 years, I would have suspected that an original headliner would be sagging like . . . well, use your imagination.
 
I was able to pickup my 500E a few weeks with 130k miles and love it. There is a local gentleman who referred me the car I bought as it was out of this price range but he is looking for one that is well used but mechanically sound.

How do I get the two of you in touch? He is in Tucson, AZ.
 
Hi 5 !

I'd be happy to connect with him. I will PM you my phone number (which you may forward to him) and he can text me to start a dialog. Two questions:
  1. I assume he is OK with the pearl black / beige color combo ?
  2. Is he on this forum ?
Doug
 
As promised a bunch of (100+) additional photos. I was not able to get the car onto a lift so the undercarriage photos were taken by crawling around and holding the camera under the car. I do see some rust - mostly exhaust and where it appears the floor may have scraped on steep driveway or via road debris or something - and hopefully typical. PA is as close to a "rust belt" state as the car has seen, and I can say with confidence that during my ownership it has not traversed salty roads. I'll let the forum experts provide their assessment(s), etc.

While this was a feeler to try to understand what $$ range I might expect or put as reserve at auction . . . there has been interest from several parties via PM's. If I can sell through the site here and save the buyers some money in auction fees that's always best. I'll send further advice by end of week on asking price, if I have not been made an acceptable offer prior to then.
 

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Small world. I used to live in Lancaster PA and I knew Bryner at KAM Specialties. I was a Saab and Alfa Romeo technician back in the 90’s later becoming the Service Manager before moving on to the VW, Audi, and Porsche dealership as their Service Manager.
 
Receipts . . . . shop repair orders / invoices - should match the summary provided last Sunday. Please note:
  • Garrett's German Car Repair - Garrett is a 1 man show. His receipt is not the easiest to read (hand written). total was $1942 to R&R the sunroof. I feel like that was a bit heavy handed .. . but the sunroof was not seating 100% and that was his answer. Uuugh.
  • Foreign Traffic - there were 2 repairs in 2022 (March + Sept) for which they listed the same odomerter reading. I did not notice it until I got home. when I went back they said they were unable to correct that and reprint in their system. I have been putting so little mileage on the car - not sre it matters - but wanted to point it out as an error on their part.
  • Valve cover Gaskets repair - note they did not provide the actual gaskets on the repair order. I had ordered them several years prior from Pelican parts - when it was the tiniest of leaks . . it took a few years until it became an issue - which is when I had FT do the repair. The gaskets were kept flat and inside for that duration.

asking price coming tomorrow . . .
 

Attachments

Asking price is $28,500

I'm not too good at updating these posts . . . I would ask if a moderator can do that for me - so that the subject/title removes the word "feeler" and replaces it with "asking $28.5K (Pittsburgh, PA)" . . . or provide direction on how I edit the title myself ? Thanks in advance !
 
Receipts . . . . shop repair orders / invoices - should match the summary provided last Sunday. Please note:
  • Garrett's German Car Repair - Garrett is a 1 man show. His receipt is not the easiest to read (hand written). total was $1942 to R&R the sunroof. I feel like that was a bit heavy handed .. . but the sunroof was not seating 100% and that was his answer. Uuugh.
  • Foreign Traffic - there were 2 repairs in 2022 (March + Sept) for which they listed the same odomerter reading. I did not notice it until I got home. when I went back they said they were unable to correct that and reprint in their system. I have been putting so little mileage on the car - not sre it matters - but wanted to point it out as an error on their part.
  • Valve cover Gaskets repair - note they did not provide the actual gaskets on the repair order. I had ordered them several years prior from Pelican parts - when it was the tiniest of leaks . . it took a few years until it became an issue - which is when I had FT do the repair. The gaskets were kept flat and inside for that duration.

asking price coming tomorrow . . .
Sunroof work is the worst, it doesn't have a given time per MB for Most of the jobs when repairing....it takes what it takes and invariably it will take longer then what Anyone would like it to be...!

GLWTA
 
@Godiva99 - Doug, when the ABS/ASR lights turn on, does the car go into limp mode, where the first half of movement of the gas pedal does nothing? I don't see any record of the ETA (throttle actuator) being replaced or rebuilt, do you know if it's original, and/or can you see the date code on the ETA label if you remove the airbox?

Also - what is the issue with the sunroof exactly? Does it open/close normally but isn't seating quite right when closed?

:apl:
 
Last edited:
@Godiva99 - Doug, when the ABS/ASR lights turn on, does the car go into limp mode, where the first half of movement of the gas pedal does nothing? I don't see any record of the ETA (throttle actuator) being replaced or rebuilt, do you know if it's original, and/or can you see the date code on the ETA label if you remove the airbox?

Also - what is the issue with the sunroof exactly? Does it open/close normally but isn't seating quite right when closed?

:apl:
Hi Dave -

Sunroof was not seating 100% prior to being repaired. When I closed it, the passenger side rear corner would sit about 1/8" to 3/16" below flush with the roof. It was not enough to cause any leaks (no signs of wetness when washing the car or leaving out in the rain). But it just didn't look right. I had Garrett German Motors here in PBGH look at it - they reco'd and completed a full R&R replacing all rails, guides, etc. I thought it was an overkill - but at last the roof now seats properly.

The ABS/ASR light never caused any changes to driving behavior. No limp mode - it was seemingly a dash light only - and was looked at by both KAM Specialties (for sure) and Foreign Traffic (I think) and found to not have thrown any codes. It simply would come on anywhere between 15-20 seconds after starting the car or within the first 5-10 minutes of driving it. That said, shortly after putting the car officially "for sale" on this site - I took it on a nice long drive and the lights have not come on since (had it out twice after that long ride). I will take it out again tomorrow and repost here to advise if it is still in "hibernation", so to speak.

All this said, I did get a call today and have a "sale pending", which my wife is very happy about , ha ha !
 
Hi Dave -

Sunroof was not seating 100% prior to being repaired. When I closed it, the passenger side rear corner would sit about 1/8" to 3/16" below flush with the roof. It was not enough to cause any leaks (no signs of wetness when washing the car or leaving out in the rain). But it just didn't look right. I had Garrett German Motors here in PBGH look at it - they reco'd and completed a full R&R replacing all rails, guides, etc. I thought it was an overkill - but at last the roof now seats properly.

The ABS/ASR light never caused any changes to driving behavior. No limp mode - it was seemingly a dash light only - and was looked at by both KAM Specialties (for sure) and Foreign Traffic (I think) and found to not have thrown any codes. It simply would come on anywhere between 15-20 seconds after starting the car or within the first 5-10 minutes of driving it. That said, shortly after putting the car officially "for sale" on this site - I took it on a nice long drive and the lights have not come on since (had it out twice after that long ride). I will take it out again tomorrow and repost here to advise if it is still in "hibernation", so to speak.

All this said, I did get a call today and have a "sale pending", which my wife is very happy about , ha ha !
Just to follow up on the ABS/ASR - took the car out for another ride yesterday - about 20 minutes / 10 miles . . . still no ABS/ASR light coming on. Not sure why this is no longer occurring, but that's now my 3rd or 4th outing in a row without these lights coming on.
 
Sorry Jazzy . . . the car has been sold ! Apologies for not replying sooner - I was out of the country until Saturday and then completed the transaction with the buyers this morning. If the moderators could please update the subject line to SOLD that would be appreciated.

Selling price was $27,500

New buyers have already had some contact here, and will probably be using this site for help on maintenance, etc ...

As previously mentioned, I have had less time on this site than I would have liked . . . which coincides my having spent less time driving the 500e than I should have. But in the end, the buyers are getting a solid car, with lots of maintenance records, and a gorgeous paint job for what I think both parties feel was a fair price.
 

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