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400E 400e crank no start

Nosparkyman

Member
Member
Hello! I am working on a 1993 400e. I am having trouble diagnosing a crank no start issue and I was hoping someone more familiar with this platform could offer some assistance. I have searched my problem and read many threads but I seem to be chasing my tail.

I am working on this car for my friend. The car was running good for a while, started to act up and misfire on him so he took it to a shop where they replaced the caps and rotors, I confirmed this by pulling them and inspecting. It helped for a while but the problem started getting worse until it left him stranded and had to get the car towed home.

I get the car and the car wont start at all, plenty of cranking, smell of fuel, some pops here and there but no start. I get it home and check for spark, I had pulse on my timing light from one coil but not the other. Swap the "bad" coil to where the "good" coil was and don't get any spark... seemed like an easy bad ignition coil. Replaced both coils but had no change except now there was no spark on either coil! I did some forum searching and reading and it sounded like classic EZL module failure so I order one up from Ebay. It arrives, I replace the module and... still nothing. I had already checked the module was getting grounded, I checked for 12v at both large connectors, the coils and checked continuity from the - of the coils to the big round plugs on the EZL. All seemed to check out good.

At that point I started looking at the crank position sensor. I ordered a new one just to rule it out, when pulling the old one out I noticed the mounting bolt was loose! I went ahead and replaced the sensor anyways while I was in there. Went through all that still to have no spark. Pretty frustrated at this point I thought maybe the EZL from Ebay was also bad, I sent it back and ordered another more expensive 'tested' EZL. In the meantime while I was waiting I put the old EZL back in, the car actually started after a few backfires and about 30+ seconds of cranking. Sounded smooth enough so I put the timing light on but still was only getting spark to one side. Hopeful I had atleast made progress at this point I let it run for a while but after maybe 4 or 5 minutes the car died and wouldnt restart.

I just got the newest EZL today and didnt have any change with it. Started and ran after a long crank and ran on one coil for about 5 mins, died and wont restart. I actually watched the timing light as it happened, was a steady flash, started to get unsteady and then choppy then nothing. I checked fuel pressure at the rail and it has plenty, I did notice sometimes when I'm cranking seems that the fuel pump isnt turning on when cranking? But only sometimes, other times I've checked it has pressure.

Any advice on where to look next would be appreciated! A bit frustrated at this point but I've learned a lot about this engine already. One of the things on my list of things to check are the crank triggers on the flywheel.
 
Has the car run properly even once after the shop replaced caps/rotors? If not - remove the rotor and rotor bracket. Make sure the rotor bracket was properly keyed into the cam sprocket, it fits in 1 position only. While the rotor bracket is off, remove the insulator and inspect the back side for liquid - if present, replace the insulators. If there's any sign of oil leaking from the cam seals, replace those too (everything should be bone dry back there).

After that - what brand caps/rotors were installed? Bremi/Facet are no bueno. OE or Bosch are acceptable. Even then, it's not unheard of to have defective parts out of the box. You can measure the resistance of the cap terminals and rotor as well, with an ohm meter (should be about 1k ohm, IIRC). I didn't see anything about checking the wires, need to verify the wires are good, and the plug boots are 2000 ohms ±20%.

The 1993 400E uses a specific EZL part number, make sure it's correct, not "equivalent", some other numbers could cause problems.

Next up is pulling fault codes, clearing all codes, then seeing what codes (if any) return immediately after you start the engine and it runs badly. Mostly interested in codes from the EZL and LH module.

Fuel pumps should run for 2 seconds each time the key turns on, and should be running constantly when the engine is running. Should be 45-60psi at the fuel rail when running, if not, check the fuel system. If the fuel pump relay clicks when running, the LH module is bad and needs repair (new capacitors) or replacement.

Also wouldn't hurt to verify both flywheel magnets are present.

:detective:
 
I will second the rotor and bracket install. If they are not in their properly seated position all hell can break loose. Wires too if everything else is good can be bad. or the suppressor. IIRC, and could be wrong, the suppressor should give you a certain amount of OHMS (insert figure here) and it should be consistent on all 8. Sometimes the plugs are gapped too small over time.


EDIT The wire itself, separate from the plug boot, should always be be zero ohms.The plug boot should be 2000 ohms, ±20% or so (rough acceptable range 1600-2400 ohms). Ditto if measuring with the wire connected to the plug boot. (courtesy of a GSXR thread)
 
Thank you both for the advice! According to my friend it ran good as soon as the caps were replaced. I'll pull them again tonight and see what brand they are and test resistance. I'll also test resistance on the plug wires, does the coil wire have resistance too? I'll search to find out how to pull the codes, the check engine light on the dash never comes on. I'll also check my fuel pressure a few times tonight and report back.
 
I'll also test resistance on the plug wires, does the coil wire have resistance too?
The coil wires should be zero ohms. As noted in nocfn's post, the plug wire will be zero ohms, but the plug boot itself has a resistor built-in that will be ±2000 ohms.


I'll search to find out how to pull the codes
Look in the "De-coding" subforum, there are stickies at the top. You'll need a hand-held blink code reader at a minimum. Live data is available but you need a digital scanner that will speak to OBD-1 Mercedes, which I'm guessing you don't have floating around.



the check engine light on the dash never comes on.
The CEL will only come on when a computer senses faults that will affect emissions. It's possible the CEL will never turn on with the symptoms you describe.

:cel:
 
Noted! I just ordered a hand held blink code reader so I'll have that information available as soon as I receive it. I'll do that testing tonight and report back. I'll take pictures of the rotors and caps for us to see. Thank you for the help.
 
I did some testing tonight. I noted both distributor caps are Bosch. The rotor on the Lh side is a bosch rotor that looks a bit rough. The Rh rotor is a Bremi and looks new. Rh rotor .985 ohms LH rotor 1.2 ohm jumps around a lot.
Rh cap 1.062 ohms
LH cap 1.026 ohms
Tested the coil wires and found resistance in the Lh side coil wire 1.6ohms
Rh coil wire 0 ohms
tested all spark wires and were in spec.
Pulled the rotor arms off and saw the LH side is leaking from the cam seal, also noted moisture on the backside of the insulator. Rh side had slight moisture in the cap but was dry on the backside of the insulator. So at this point looks like I should find 2 new rotors/insulators and a coil wire.
 

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None of that looks good. The one cap has a lot of liquid/moisture, the one insulator as well.

In addition to the work you mentioned above, cut additional vent slots into the caps, this will help eliminate moisture buildup. More info in the thread linked below.

And, also check the cam solenoids... these can leak oil and the oil runs along the bottom of the cap, which can cause problems even with all new components and good cam seals.


:shocking:
 
I ordered cam seals, new bosch rotors, insulators, insulator gaskets and a spark wire set. Also planning on adding the vents to the caps and some WD40 on the inside per the thread you linked me. Thank you so much for the help, I'll report back once I have some parts.
 
Just curious - what wires did you get? I'd be nervous about anything other than the Berus shown below, or maybe the spiffy blue NGK's.


:duck:
 
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