AMG E60 : Properly Identifying

[BigWillieStyle]

Lots of crap going around, I'm not really into the whole 6.0L thing but someone needs to clear this up. If you're going to spend $100k+ don't be too lazy to check the crankshaft part number.

Also this is widely agreed upon logic whether it be a Mercedes, 1960s Pony Car, or a Mazza 250F

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...ERX1FBClBEw$&vid=2999&cid=19570&uid=178717&q=


[TABLE="width: 357"][TR][TD]#[/TD][TD]Part[/TD][TD]Part Number[/TD][TD]Qty[/TD][TD]Code[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]1[/TD][TD]CRANKSHAFT[/TD][TD]HWA1190300301[/TD][TD]1[/TD][TD="align: right"]69[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]2[/TD][TD]CONROD(s)[/TD][TD]HWA1190300320[/TD][TD]8[/TD][TD="align: right"]84[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]3[/TD][TD]PISTON[/TD][TD]HWA1190300618[/TD][TD]8[/TD][TD="align: right"]90[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]3[/TD][TD]PISTON[/TD][TD]HWA1190300918[/TD][TD]8[/TD][TD="align: right"]90[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

 

[Rouven036]

I don't understand what you mean about that. These part numbers are part numbers which mean these numbers must NOT be on the parts.

The crank of the 6.0 is a regular M117 5.6L crank with remachined counter weights (radius 82mm) and heavy alloy plugs inserted into the counter weights and then re-ballanced. When you look at the cast markings, it's the same as on a regular M117 5.6, besides the obvious machining.
The same goes for the conrods which are standard parts where has been some adaptations to the bolt mating surface and lower side counter weights.
The machining of crank and con rods became necessary with the low deck block as implemented with the introduction of the 119.97 (LH) engine. These have less space in the crank housing. However the earlier CIS-E M119.96 has a higher deck height and more space in the crank housing. These 6.0 versions utilize a unmachined crank but a specific rod which is basically a standard item with a special wrist pin bearing which has a 2mm smaller bore for a lighter wrist pin. The bearing was only available with the conrod thus it has a HWA number but on the con rod itself is no difference except the smaller inner diameter wrist pin bearing.
Pistons are specific but also they don't bear the part number.

Does this answer your questions?

 

[195910]

See information on my thread on Identifying authentic E60 AMG:

https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9548

 

[BigWillieStyle]

I don't understand what you mean about that. These part numbers are part numbers which mean these numbers must NOT be on the parts.

Alright someone can delete this thread. Conceptually not having the part number stamped on the damn part, seems very Un-German. The lack of corresponding data, is representative of #VALUE! or Circular Reference in an MS-Excel cell. One-off(s) without numerical identification, and at the same time to be considered OEM factory specification, I'm still attempting to absorb this conundrum.


I just wish someone had a photo to verify your claim.

 

[msq]

I have been doing a bunch of homework over past couple of years on E60 AMG's and I have dug into a number that were for sale over past few years. I will say that Rouven036 is very knowledgeable and the post referred to above by 195910 also has some really good info as well as a posts from gerryvz and others in https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11754

Also jhodg5ck is super knowledgable.

I was going to try to add some interesting info I think have come across once I finish doing some add'l homework/verification in a couple of weeks.

 

[Rouven036]

Some photos of the parts of the original AMG 6L rotating assembly (all own photos) :

 

[Wide Open Cowbell]

Oof look at the heat marks around those journals! What happened there? Did it get oil starved?

 

[Rouven036]

No that is all well. This are the marks from the hardening of the crank journals.

 

[Wide Open Cowbell]

Makes sense--I guess the uniform nature of the marks would indicate they're from an intentional process. I just haven't ever seen such marks on a crank before!

 

[benzgarden]

Great thread. Sometimes you can find a Japan E60 engine for sale on eBay. I was thinking about buying one. How do I properly identify this engine as real beside the stamping on the block? The seller claims to have 5 of them.

Thanks,
Hyder

 

[Rouven036]

Makes sense--I guess the uniform nature of the marks would indicate they're from an intentional process. I just haven't ever seen such marks on a crank before!

Here another one from a 2.5-16 M102.990 engine, same inductive hardening marks:

I have more pictures if needed since a number of engines and cranks went through my hands.