Anti-seize compounds

[samiam44]

Anti sizing compoundes

I was doing some work a couple weeks ago..

I've got a mil spec can which is designed to be used w hydraulic and fuel fittings. It's clear and is very sticky. Finding it has some good uses due to its properties.

 

[2phast]

Aeroshell 33ms is one of the few milspec anti seize compounds available to the public. It is gray in color though, not sure what yours is.

 

[samiam44]

Re: Anti sizing compounds

Not a nickel based compound. Seems to work really well where i need it, but it's not high-heat. I've got a pint can, but I think the small plane guys buy it in a tube.


M

 

[samiam44]

I'm using EZ-turn which is per MIL-G-6032D AM 1, Type 1 or SAE-G-6032. Excellent stuff...

Extremely effective as a gasket paste and anti-seize agent. gumming compound won't dry out or crack.

M

 

[samiam44]

By the way..Aeroshell 33ms is grease and not antiseize.

 

[gerryvz]

Interesting piece on anti-seize from FCP Yurro.

Note that this article says NOT to use anti-seize on spark plugs and lug-nuts.

6 Tips For Effective Use Of Anti-Seize Compound

Anti-seize compound can be an absolute lifesaver or cause you unnecessary stress if used improperly. These 6 tips cover how it should and shouldn't be used.

blog.fcpeuro.com

 

[gsxr]

This article as well - link below plus PDF attached:

Mercedes-Benz Spark Plug Procedures and Precautions

This essential component is still evolving in design, materials and service. Use only genuine Mercedes-Benz spark plugs to avoid engine failure.

automotivetechinfo.com

To Anti-seize or Not​

That is the question! Many technicians, especially those who have experience with air cooled engines, advocate using an anti-seize product on the threads of the spark plugs. The reasoning behind the practice is due to the nature of the two dissimilar metals — the steel outer jacket of the spark plug and the aluminum alloy of the cylinder head — there can be expansion and contraction between the different metals and spark plugs tend to get “stuck” in the cylinder head and even break off, necessitating a costly repair.​

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According to NGK (and others echo the same thing), their spark plugs feature tri-valent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.​

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Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values by up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage, metal shell stretch, and/or incorrect indexing. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Bottom line: Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on spark plug threads. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental. If you were taught to use anti-seize, now you know better and need to stop.​

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So there you have it: The humble spark plug has more to it than meets the eye. Use the right plug for the application, pay attention to the basics, keep that torque wrench handy, and your customers will never need to worry about a spark plug as a source of trouble.​

 

[Alphasud40]

I have used an anti-seize on some spark plug threads over the years. Usually on some plugs that do not have a nickel plating on the threads. Some manufacturers have also recommended for specific application. One being the Ford Triton engine which had issues of plugs seizing in the head and breaking off.

As far as altering the torque values yes that will have an effect but after changing spark plugs over 30 years I torque based on feel. I hand thread and then tighten until you feel the crush washer compress For those plugs that don’t have a taper seat. If you look at the old Bosch plug boxes it gives you a torque angle on the box.

as far as lug nuts are concerned If you live in a area where road salt is used you have probably experienced thread galling and seizure without some type of protection. I have used anti-seize for again over 30 years and never had a failure due to over torque. It’s been heavily debated and technically not advised but wheel studs are over engineered to cope with the jack wagons who use the impact gun to tighten lug nuts. I always use a torque wrench to tighten nuts and bolts.

 

[gsxr]

... as far as lug nuts are concerned If you live in a area where road salt is used you have probably experienced thread galling and seizure without some type of protection. I have used anti-seize for again over 30 years and never had a failure due to over torque. It’s been heavily debated and technically not advised but wheel studs are over engineered to cope with the jack wagons who use the impact gun to tighten lug nuts. I always use a torque wrench to tighten nuts and bolts.

I agree 100%. Lug bolts are a totally separate discussion IMO. I do use a small bit of anti-seize on lug bolt threads and always use a torque wrench.

Spark plugs, I would never use it unless it the manufacturer recommends this for a specific application. On Mercedes engines with OE/OEM plugs, anti-seize is not required; and there are few if any stories about MB spark plugs becoming seized in the cylinder heads.

 

[Alphasud40]

I agree 100%. Lug bolts are a totally separate discussion IMO. I do use a small bit of anti-seize on lug bolt threads and always use a torque wrench.

Spark plugs, I would never use it unless it the manufacturer recommends this for a specific application. On Mercedes engines with OE/OEM plugs, anti-seize is not required; and there are few if any stories about MB spark plugs becoming seized in the cylinder heads.

Right all Mercedes spark plugs are nickel plated and do not require it. Autolite and Champion plugs without the nickel plating should get some if used in an aluminum head. But that is domestic crap.

 

[sheward]

All very good content and guidelines. I also torque by feel when there is a crush or lock washer involved excepting critical engine/machined surface bolts.