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500E ASR + Check Engine

Aircooled9elf

E500E Newbie
New Member
Greetings!

I have a 1994 E500 (and also a ‘94 E420); however, this question concerns the 500E).

Background: My 500E is very clean and has been well cared for by the previous owner, who was also the original owner of the car. The car has been a Florida car it’s entire life, is completely rust-free, and has 149k miles on the clock. I purchased the car about a year ago, and it has been completely trouble-free until recently. After purchasing the car, I changed all the fluids, filters and plugs. It appears that the engine wiring harness was replaced at some point by the previous owner.

Start of the Problem: A few months ago when I started the car for the first time after sitting for a few weeks, it began to hesitate whenever I would apply the throttle. Once the car was moving, I didn’t notice anything abnormal, but when starting from a stop, it would accelerate extremely slowly, even when pushing the gas all the way down. I was hoping that it only required a simple fix, and put some fuel water eliminator in the tank, which seemed to fix the problem.

About a week later, the car again began to hesitate upon acceleration, right after starting the car; albeit much worse this time. It stalled several times while merely reversing out of the garage. During this time, the ASR light came on, but not the Check Engine.

I was able to limp it to my repair shop, who are experienced with these cars and others. Since being at the shop, I had all the vacuum lines replaced (the logic being to start with what’s easiest). This didn’t improve the problem, and now the car was having difficulty starting, running very roughly, and backfiring. Once the car would start, it would idle at very low RPMs, and had almost no power. As the engine temp would increase, the problem became even worse to the point that it would refuse to start once warm, and I’d have to wait for it to cool before starting it again.

I proceeded to replace all of the control modules including the: 1) Basic CM, 2) ASR CM, 3) Throttle Control Unit (EGas), and 4) Engine Control Unit. None of these resulted in any improvement.

Now the car will not start at all and it appears to have very low fuel pressure in the rail. I cannot hear the fuel pump engage before or while cranking. I pulled the fuel pump relay and it appears good, but I’ll replace this before proceeding to replace the fuel pump and filter.

If anyone has any suggestions on how I should proceed, I’d appreciate it so very much. Thank you in advance!
 
I’d take a good look at the fuel pumps and filter. Easy and relatively cheap, and unless you have documentation on the pumps being replaced, it is about time both with age and mileage.
 
:welcome3:

You have the classic issue with the distributor caps that just about everyone on this forum has had.

There are a TON of threads about it.

Here are a few good starting points to get you reading up on the cause, and the solution.

Don't throw any more parts at it until you do the fix relating to the distributor caps slotting and cleaning. I think you will find that the problem will be resolved at that point. This issue has stumped many many even experienced M119 mechanics over the years, but it is a REAL issue with these cars that just about every owner experiences at some point.




Search function should also provide some additional information, even suggesting threads as you type in additional characters.

Try "distributor caps" in the search box and you will find a plethora of info...

Screenshot 2025-04-02 at 8.16.28 AM.jpg



You should be able to easily check fuel pressure via the Schrader valve located on the bung on the fuel rail. When you turn the key to the "ACC" position (not starting the car), it should activate the fuel pumps for 1-2 seconds, and this should bring pressure up to what it should be at. Try moving the key to ACC a few times, and then check the fuel pressure at the rail.

Fuel pressure regulators do go out on these cars (they get tired after some years), but typically they cause hard starting either when warm, or when cold. Not a bad item to change, as even the Bosch items are not of the same quality that the originals were back in the day. They are relatively inexpensive to change, using simple tools, and we have a HOW-TO on replacing the FPR in the HOW-TO section here on the forum. It's a 15 minute job.
 
You have the classic issue with the distributor caps that just about everyone on this forum has had.

There are a TON of threads about it.

Here are a few good starting points to get you reading up on the cause, and the solution.
Yea that slipped my mind totally, Gerry is of course correct. Make sure all of that is sorted first of all.
 
Sounds like you have at least 2 or 3 separate problems:

1) Running very roughly and backfiring are classic symptoms of secondary ignition problems, specifically moisture in the distributor caps. If the caps are relatively recent (low miles) and Bosch or Beru, they can be cleaned, modified with additional vent slots as described in this thread, and re-installed. If old or badly carbon tracked, replace with new Bosch. The rotor+bracket should be removed to inspect the back side of the insulator for cleaning or replacement as well, along with verifying the cam seal is not leaking. If there is even the slightest trace of engine oil at the lower edge of the cap (and the cam seal is dry), the intake cam solenoid is leaking and must be replaced/resealed. With the added vent slots and zero oil leaks, the misfire should go away permanently. This will also cure the issue where you have to wait for the engine to cool before it will start again.

2) The ASR light coming on may be indicating limp mode, but it's hard to tell without pulling fault codes from each module. That will help pinpoint the cause of the ASR light. Read the stickies in the De-Coding subforum. Since you swapped each of the modules and there was no change, this indicates that all modules are probably fine. You may initially find "code diarrhea" from many years of stored codes, clear everything, drive the car, and after the next time the ASR Light comes on - check to see which codes have reappeared.

3) The fuel pumps should run for 2 seconds each time you turn the ignition on to position 2 (lights+sirens), and should be running while cranking. If not, the car won't start because there's no fuel pressure at the rail. The relay almost never fails, but there may be a fuse in the relay, check that first. You can jumper the sockets in the relay connector to force the pumps on, if they still don't run, the pumps may have failed (not uncommon at 30 years old). If the pumps run fine... further diagnostics are needed. If the pumps need replacement, install only Bosch OEM pumps, and I'd very strongly recommend replacing the high-pressure fuel hose exiting the fuel filter... along with the tank vent and other hoses in the area. Full details including part numbers and photos are in this thread.

4) The CEL is nearly useless, it only illuminates if the DM (Diagnostic Module) thinks there is an emissions-related fault. I would expect you would not ever see the CEL with the problems described above. It's not like the "Check Engine" warning on newer OBD-2 vehicles.


Do you have the car at home now, or is it still at the shop? If the shop was genuinely "experienced" with these cars, they would have returned it to you running like new. All the above issues have been well documented on this forum over the past decade or so. It's extremely rare to find any shop that really knows what they are doing with these OBD-1 cars, that do not "hold your hand" via OBD-2 diagnostic code.

BTW - welcome to the forum!

:welcome4:
 
Wow! Thank you so much Doolar, Gerryvz, GSXR! I was very pleasantly surprised to see all of these extremely helpful responses after only a few hours. I only wish I would’ve joined and posted this sooner.

I’ll definitely plan on starting with the distributor caps and then attack the fuel pump, filter and high pressure hose as needed (already ordered yesterday). My time is a bit limited at the moment, but I’ll head over to the shop as soon as I’m able, and will absolutely keep all of you (and other members) updated. Thank you all so very much again!
 
Sounds like you have at least 2 or 3 separate problems:

1) Running very roughly and backfiring are classic symptoms of secondary ignition problems, specifically moisture in the distributor caps. If the caps are relatively recent (low miles) and Bosch or Beru, they can be cleaned, modified with additional vent slots as described in this thread, and re-installed. If old or badly carbon tracked, replace with new Bosch. The rotor+bracket should be removed to inspect the back side of the insulator for cleaning or replacement as well, along with verifying the cam seal is not leaking. If there is even the slightest trace of engine oil at the lower edge of the cap (and the cam seal is dry), the intake cam solenoid is leaking and must be replaced/resealed. With the added vent slots and zero oil leaks, the misfire should go away permanently. This will also cure the issue where you have to wait for the engine to cool before it will start again.

2) The ASR light coming on may be indicating limp mode, but it's hard to tell without pulling fault codes from each module. That will help pinpoint the cause of the ASR light. Read the stickies in the De-Coding subforum. Since you swapped each of the modules and there was no change, this indicates that all modules are probably fine. You may initially find "code diarrhea" from many years of stored codes, clear everything, drive the car, and after the next time the ASR Light comes on - check to see which codes have reappeared.

3) The fuel pumps should run for 2 seconds each time you turn the ignition on to position 2 (lights+sirens), and should be running while cranking. If not, the car won't start because there's no fuel pressure at the rail. The relay almost never fails, but there may be a fuse in the relay, check that first. You can jumper the sockets in the relay connector to force the pumps on, if they still don't run, the pumps may have failed (not uncommon at 30 years old). If the pumps run fine... further diagnostics are needed. If the pumps need replacement, install only Bosch OEM pumps, and I'd very strongly recommend replacing the high-pressure fuel hose exiting the fuel filter... along with the tank vent and other hoses in the area. Full details including part numbers and photos are in this thread.

4) The CEL is nearly useless, it only illuminates if the DM (Diagnostic Module) thinks there is an emissions-related fault. I would expect you would not ever see the CEL with the problems described above. It's not like the "Check Engine" warning on newer OBD-2 vehicles.


Do you have the car at home now, or is it still at the shop? If the shop was genuinely "experienced" with these cars, they would have returned it to you running like new. All the above issues have been well documented on this forum over the past decade or so. It's extremely rare to find any shop that really knows what they are doing with these OBD-1 cars, that do not "hold your hand" via OBD-2 diagnostic code.

BTW - welcome to the forum!

:welcome4:
Also, I forgot to add that the car is at the shop, which basically serves as my second garage. I do my own work on my cars, while having help from the techs if needed. It’s an invaluable learning experience for me, and I appreciate having to work through the diagnosis and solution. Thank you again!
 
You have the classic issue with the distributor caps that just about everyone on this forum has had.

There are a TON of threads about it.

Here are a few good starting points to get you reading up on the cause, and the solution.

Don't throw any more parts at it until you do the fix relating to the distributor caps slotting and cleaning. I think you will find that the problem will be resolved at that point. This issue has stumped many many even experienced M119 mechanics over the years, but it is a REAL issue with these cars that just about every owner experiences at some point.




Search function should also provide some additional information, even suggesting threads as you type in additional characters.

Try "distributor caps" in the search box and you will find a plethora of info...

View attachment 211053



You should be able to easily check fuel pressure via the Schrader valve located on the bung on the fuel rail. When you turn the key to the "ACC" position (not starting the car), it should activate the fuel pumps for 1-2 seconds, and this should bring pressure up to what it should be at. Try moving the key to ACC a few times, and then check the fuel pressure at the rail.

Fuel pressure regulators do go out on these cars (they get tired after some years), but typically they cause hard starting either when warm, or when cold. Not a bad item to change, as even the Bosch items are not of the same quality that the originals were back in the day. They are relatively inexpensive to change, using simple tools, and we have a HOW-TO on replacing the FPR in the HOW-TO section here on the forum. It's a 15 minute job.
Very helpful. Thanks
 

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