Beru Rotor

[Black 034]

I just purchased a Beru rotor thru NAPA and it has a different center contact vs every other brand I have ever seen. I mated it with distributor cap and it appears it should work fine. I have attached two images of it for review.

Thanks
Bruce F.

 

[gsxr]

That is a reboxed OE Genuine rotor made by Doduco. If you look closely you'll find the MB Star logo and part number present. These are the best rotors available for the M119, and yes they are slightly different than Bosch.

You were lucky to get one of these, most of the Beru-labeled Doduco rotors are sold out at most NAPA stores. There's a different rotor in the Beru boxes now made by a no-name aftermarket company (Facet)... you don't want those. Search the forum for additional details / discussion on caps, rotors, and insulators.

 

[Black 034]

I have a new bosch on the other bank. I may see if NAPA can get me another one. Great thing was it was under $50 with my discount.

Bruce F.

 

[chicky]

I just purchased a Beru rotor thru NAPA and it has a different center contact vs every other brand I have ever seen. I mated it with distributor cap and it appears it should work fine. I have attached two images of it for review.

Thanks
Bruce

That is a reboxed OE Genuine rotor made by Doduco. If you look closely you'll find the MB Star logo and part number present. These are the best rotors available for the M119, and yes they are slightly different than Bosch.

You were lucky to get one of these, most of the Beru-labeled Doduco rotors are sold out at most NAPA stores. There's a different rotor in the Beru boxes now made by a no-name aftermarket company (Facet)... you don't want those. Search the forum for additional details / discussion on caps, rotors, and insulators.

Hi Dave

May I ask if the above "NAPA rotors" have the part number 119-158-03-31 (meant for R129066/M119960 engines)?

Best regards

 

[gsxr]

Chicky, that part number is for all M119's with distributor ignition (119.960 and all 119.97x).

Additional reading at this link... see post #5 for the part number to avoid buying from NAPA:

Beru rotors now made in ITALY, no longer reboxed OE | M119 Engine

YEP just got a pair today from FCP. BROWN PLASTIC like the Bosh distributor shields and stamped made in ITALY not GERMANY now!

www.500eboard.co

 

[gerryvz]

Any Beru part with the EVIL-183 part number is what you want. That's the good stuff. There seems to be some NOS stock out there at NAPA stores, but it is difficult to find.

 

[Black 034]

This is what I ordered took about a week to get. May have been the last one as the Beru box was really old looking.


Distributor Rotor
Part #: ATM EVL183
Line: Altrom
Important Info:
Beru Brand - Beru is an OEM Manufacturer

Fits your 1993 Mercedes-Benz 400E


Bruce F.

 

[gerryvz]

Yep, that's the real deal. Gold in a box.

Altrom is a brand name that NAPA uses, but they also mention Beru on the web catalog pages.

The caps are now even rarer. If you find caps, GET THEM ASAP. I was lucky to get new caps and rotors from Napa back in 2020 when I did my top end.

 

[chicky]

Hello guys

My apologies to Bruce F./Black 034 for for my post sharing my experience.

Just last week, I emailed Jon/MBCC asking for the availability of the Doduco rotors 1191580331, distributor caps insulators 1191580288 and cover caps 1191580102 ... reply was NLA and also said that there were replacement part numbers ... so I placed the order for those parts, have not received them yet as there was a typhoon that hit Manila last Monday and the shipment was of loaded. I was advised that it will arrive Friday Manila time.

In lieu of the condensation problems that I have encountered with my car ... I fitted the Bremi caps, rotors, Bosch Spain covers and o-rings and new sparkplug cables bought during the era of clarkz71 posts a few years ago, new ignition coils, new Bosch Russia F8DC4 (did not want to waste my German stocks incase I don't resolve the condensation problems) and my "old" rotor brackets, and new MB OE camshaft oil seals.

Since the replacement of parts, I did not use/start the car, waited for a few days to see if the condensation problems would return ... happily problem resolved.

Best regards to all

 

[gsxr]

In lieu of the condensation problems that I have encountered with my car ... I fitted the Bremi caps, rotors, Bosch Spain covers and o-rings and new sparkplug cables bought during the era of clarkz71 posts a few years ago, new ignition coils, new Bosch Russia F8DC4 (did not want to waste my German stocks incase I don't resolve the condensation problems) and my "old" rotor brackets, and new MB OE camshaft oil seals.

Since the replacement of parts, I did not use/start the car, waited for a few days to see if the condensation problems would return ... happily problem resolved.

Chicky, new parts will cover/mask the condensation problem temporarily. The problem will return if you don't also cut additional vent slots into the new caps as shown here, along with making 1000% certain there is zero oil leakage from the cam solenoid area (and the exhaust sprocket seal, which is new on your car and should be good now).

 

[gsxr]

Just last week, I emailed Jon/MBCC asking for the availability of the Doduco rotors 1191580331, distributor caps insulators 1191580288 and cover caps 1191580102 ... reply was NLA and also said that there were replacement part numbers ... so I placed the order for those parts, have not received them yet as there was a typhoon that hit Manila last Monday and the shipment was of loaded. I was advised that it will arrive Friday Manila time.

Doduco rotors 1191580331 are still available from USA discount dealers for about $100/ea, but the part number is MIA on the MBCC website, which is not a good sign.

Insulator A1191580288 was Doduco and has been NLA for decades. Only the Bosch version is available now, A1191580188. The OE part is priced to the moon and, last I was aware, was identical to the aftermarket Bosch insulator which is 1/3 the cost.

Distributor cap 1191580102 is made by Bosch and while it is not NLA, the part number has gained a -26 suffix for unknown reasons. AFAIK the OE cap is now identical to the aftermarket Bosch cap which is 1/2 the cost. Not sure if the -26 variant is any different or not.

 

[chicky]

Hello Dave,

Thank you for the info that you have shared above , however, I will reply later in the day as it is now 4:13 am as I type this and have to start getting ready for a busy morning.

Will reply later with pics of what arrived from MBCC regarding these ignition parts.

Best regards

 

[chicky]

Hello again Bruce F./ Black 034,

Please bear with my post/replies on your thread ... if the moderators will say that I need to start a new thread or post them in a previous related thread, I will do so.

Hoping for your understanding and patience.

Best regards

 

[chicky]

Hello Dave,

Thank you for the info that you have shared above , however, I will reply later in the day as it is now 4:13 am as I type this and have to start getting ready for a busy morning.

Will reply later with pics of what arrived from MBCC regarding these ignition parts.

Best regards

Hi Dave,
Part 1
Here are the pictures of parts that arrived from MBCC:

 

[chicky]

Part 2:

 

[chicky]

Part 3:

 

[chicky]

Part 4 (bought from ebay.de & ebay.com):

 

[chicky]

Hello again Dave

Again thank you for the link that you pointed out ... will definitely do the additional grooves on the distributor caps.

What i really don't understand was how I "suddenly" developed the condensation problem with my distributor caps, covers ... from 2008 when the car was re-assembled till March 2020 (start of covid lockdown over here in the Philippines) I never had any problems/issues with condensation on my car.

I was really very surprised about 2 weeks ago when I asked my indy to do a check up on my ignition system (distributors, coils, sparkplug cables, spark plugs, etc) ... discovering the condensation and dirt on the caps and covers, rusted bolts on the brackets (please refer to post # 9 above).

BTW: believe it or not, I was able to buy 16 pcs. of MB OE F8DC4 (Germany) sparkplugs ... at of all places ... Qatar at US$8.50 air shipped to Manila

Best regards

 

[gsxr]

Part 3:

FYI - I would not use those ÜRO rotor brackets. Also, you should not need them... your car was likely updated to the late-style brackets 25-30 years ago. The early style brackets are very different, there are photos somewhere on the forum showing both side by side.

 

[chicky]

FYI - I would not use those ÜRO rotor brackets. Also, you should not need them... your car was likely updated to the late-style brackets 25-30 years ago. The early style brackets are very different, there are photos somewhere on the forum showing both side by side.

Hi Dave

Thank you for the advice ... will mark the plastic envelopes they came in with a big red X mark ... never to be used ... but since I'm a hoarder of R129 parts ... I will search for new (preferably MB OE) brackets ... just incase there's a need for it in the future

Slightly off topic question: can you suggest a good "duty cycle multi-tester" that I can buy ... for use with my R129066/M119960 ?

Thank you in advance

Best regards

 

[gsxr]

Slightly off topic question: can you suggest a good "duty cycle multi-tester" that I can buy ... for use with my R129066/M119960 ?

Great question! Unfortunately I do not know what duty cycle meter to recommend. The 500E has electronic injection and the duty cycle meter is not required and not as useful as the digital data displayed on HHT-Win in SDS. @gerryvz owns some CIS/CIS-E cars and may have a recommendation?

 

[gerryvz]

ANY duty-cycle capable multimeter will work just fine. You just have to confirm that it has that capability. Usually you can see it on the face of the multimeter with the little dial that you turn to activate different functions. It will say "duty cycle" as one of the functional options.

But, a couple of notes on this.

When you use the duty-cycle capability, the reading for the KE-Jet duty cycle is the INVERSE of the displayed number. Also, the numbers displayed will constantly change, so you have to "squint" at it and take a mental average of the numbers displayed over about a 15-30 second time period.

It's not optimal, but generally it works fine. You just have to know those caveats.

 

[gerryvz]

Note, too, that the ideal range for duty cycle is in the 48-52% range. You will want to see the duty cycle numbers on the multimeter jumping all around this range.

You just connect the leads/probes from the multimeter into two of the pins in the round black connector (with the screw-off cover) on the inside of the driver's side fender.

I forget which pin numbers, but you can Google that. I'm sure that info is also available on the 126board.com forum too.

 

[chicky]

Thank you Dave and Gerry for the information ... will check out Amazon and see what options I have ...
Best regards

 

[chicky]

Hello again Gerry
I wanted to ask you opinion ... is this good enough :

Amazon.com

BTMETER BT-770K Auto Ranging Automotive Multimeter for Dwell Angle Pulse Width Tach Temperature Duty Cycle Voltage Current Resistance Test
$66.99
No Import Fees Deposit & FREE Shipping to Philippines
Brand: BTMETER
Power Source: Battery Powered, Electric
Style: Handheld
Color: BT-770K Orange
Item Weight: 1 Pound
About this item

【Automotive Multimeter】Measure AC DC Amperage to 20A, AC DC Volt to 750V~1000V, AC DC Ohm to 60MΩ, Capacitance to 60mF, Temp -4~1832℉, Frequency 9.999MHz, Duty Cycle, 3/4/5/6/8 Cylinder Switchable, 0.1ms~10.0 ms pules width, 600~12000RPM Tachometer and Dwell Test. 【 BTMETER BT-705A Inductive Clamp for RPM measurement is NOT included 】
【For Mechanics and DIYers】High accuracy 6000 counts multi-tester features with PEAK Hold on MAX/MIN. Diode & Continuity Test, NCV and AC True RMS, ℃/℉ switchable. With automatic zero adjust and overload protection on all ranges, 10 MΩ impedance.
【Large LCD Display】This voltmeter using the words 20mm, 3.0 inch LCD display with Auto backlight sensor makes it convenience for troubleshoot car engine battery and electric problems in dim place. Auto OFF after 15 mins with no operation
【Hands Free】Magnetic attachment on metal surface, Hanger, Kickstand to set your hands free, and auto backlight, led light in the knob allows your see the range and measurement clearly, especially when working under your vehicle or in the dark.
【Temperature Test】Comes with thermocouple for water tank, Auto Manual Ranging Switchable. Includes zipped carry case which easily holds all the multimeter accessories, life time tech support, and 12 months warranty

 

[chicky]

Thank you in advance Gerry for your opinion on the matter

 

[rayhennig]

I forget which pin numbers

Pins 2 & 3. And try to determine how your meter reads DC as it is possible to get the probes the wrong way round.

My controller returns 30% with ignition on and engine off. If I see 70%, I reverse the probes. I recall that I need to place red on 2 and black on 3 - the reverse of what you'd expect.

Mine's a Fluke meter after a number of cheapo ones gave variable results. This is a bit like mine:

Amazon.com

Good hunting.

RayH

 

[gerryvz]

That multimeter looks just fine to use.

 

[chicky]

... ok will pull the trigger on amazon. I'm a bit hesistant after RayH's comment on the "cheapo ones", but then there were sseveral units in the the $$$ range

I will keep in mind Gerry's and RayH's tips on the use of the digital meter

Thank you and best regards