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Blower motor not turning on.
- Thread starter Relux
- Start date
So the idea here is if you have the proper voltage at either side of the strip fuse. If that check out then the voltage at the plug at the fire wall. So my notes from a reputable source say:
with AC on and high fan running key on or car running - low or no voltage at the terminals of the blade fuse would indicate perhaps a worn ignition switch.
at the fire wall: 3-6 volts between ground and the yellow wire (if that is the smallest gauge wire IIRC) with the push button unit on fan. If not, then potentially reflow the solder joints inside the unit.
with AC on and high fan running key on or car running - low or no voltage at the terminals of the blade fuse would indicate perhaps a worn ignition switch.
at the fire wall: 3-6 volts between ground and the yellow wire (if that is the smallest gauge wire IIRC) with the push button unit on fan. If not, then potentially reflow the solder joints inside the unit.
I got it figured out. I opened it back up pulled the blower motor out and found an internal connection on the motor had come loose. Easy fix with a little solder. Put it back together and all is well. And for anyone wondering all the parts are oem mercedes stuff and brand new. Not the cheap junk haha. Thanks for the replys on here.
May I continue the topic please.
I have installed new motor and new N29 regulator (but not from W124, made an effort to try w140).
After that blower is not working at all
Not checked voltages yet (going to do that tomorrow) but maybe somebody knows what means “Hot in run” on schemes ?
Can’t understand why f15 and f1 fuses are in parallel on the scheme.
My regards!
I have installed new motor and new N29 regulator (but not from W124, made an effort to try w140).
After that blower is not working at all
Not checked voltages yet (going to do that tomorrow) but maybe somebody knows what means “Hot in run” on schemes ?
Can’t understand why f15 and f1 fuses are in parallel on the scheme.
My regards!
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