Buying a car via Copart (in California)

[RicardoD]

I am looking for a BMW 325i (E30) to be a parts car for an engine transplant, M20B25 6 cylinder, into my 1981 BMW 320i. This will take me from 90hp in my tired 4 cylinder to near 200hp when I done rebuilding the new 6 cylinder motor.

I searched for a 325i via CoPart and found one. A running 1988 325i in the Copart auction yard close to me near Sacramento. Perfect! Here is what I learned.



1) you can’t bid on a Copart car as just a consumer in California, you need to go through a broker. In other states this isn’t required (e.g. Oregon).
Licensing requirements per state is here: https://www.copart.com/content/us/en/licensing/index?cid=vn_licensing_index#state

2)You have to sign up to CoPart to start bidding ($99/year for cheapest option) but that won’t work for me in California because only an authorized broker can bid. So they hand you off to a Broker and their top recommendation in California is Autobidmaster.com which just looks like the CoPart site and clearly their portal for regular consumers. Autobidmaster cheapest option is $69/year to participate in live bidding. I paid for this.

- the $69 includes one VIN check, which is sort of like a CarFax but better. I saw the history of the car, previous Co-part auction photos after it was first auctioned by Farmer’s Insurance (Front right damage). And market analysis showing confirmation that this car retail value is $3k tops.​

3)Then the fees start stacking up, way up. Oh, I can’t go and pick this car up with my own trailer. That will cost me $500 to get it delivered to my door step.

4) I put in an early bid of $325 and ended up with $1200 in FEES!!! On top of the $325. So any bid I made I have to factor in $1200 in fees + $500 shipping = $1700.
- fee details attached screenshot.

The most I would pay for this car would be $3k but I have to deduct my $1700 in fees so my max bid would be $1300. This car will probably go for more than that. Plus I have to salvage the shell when I done and they don’t quite give you a title (this is a Salvage car).

So, I learned a great deal through this process, and I recall a bit of wisdom from my brother, that sometimes you spend money ($69) to gain knowledge.

In summary, do not think a CoPart car will end up being a great deal with such a large Fee structure after the winning bid. Thankfully AuctionBidMaster (CoPart) is very transparent with this BEFORE you actually make the bid (but after you paid them $69. They show you in the last step before confirming your bid. (See attachment).

 

[alabbasi]

Yep

 

[LWB250]

It's a weird setup with state laws, and a real hodgepodge depending on where you live. You can't bid as an individual in Florida, but you can in other states. I looked into it some time ago and found much the same - by the time I factor all the fees in it's rarely worth it.

Dan

 

[gsxr]

Some additional ABM info at this link. Those fees are nuts. I wonder if fees are more reasonable in states that allow you to buy directly, without the broker.

 

[Alphasud40]

I learned the hard way. Stay away from CoPart. Just another sleazy organization.

 

[alabbasi]

I still buy from there, but they're making it harder and harder to deal with because there are so many shady people selling, and because they nickel and dime you to death with fees. On my most recent transaction, they charged me $20 for a title mail fee when I paid for the car, but then handed the title to me when the car was delivered through their transport.

I log in a couple of days later to see that they charged me another $20 for a title 'pick up' fee.

 

[RicardoD]

Car is at $1200 now, which means $3075 delivered to my door with fees & shipping. I need to go private party for this and rent a U-Haul trailer.

 

[alabbasi]

I will say though as someone who rode in an E21 323i back when I was a kid, I have some very fond, tail happy memories in them. I hope that you can find the appropriate bumpers and twin exhaust system.

 

[yevgenievich]

For buying in tx it used to be more cost effective to use a broker once price went over 2k or so. But broker I was using charged per transaction only. Stopped really buying things through copart once they stopped the free accounts