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Dirty Fuel after Changing Filter

mnessari

E500E Enthusiast
Member
It’s been about a month now that I picked up a 95 E420 and it’s still not running to my liking. I replaced, plugs with Bosch F8DC4, Bosch Caps and Rotors, NGK Wires, 2 Bosch ignition coils, while the dust shields were in good shape. Went to replace the fuel filter and what came out shocked me! The fuel was greenish, brownish, reddish color (sorry I’m colorblind) and had almost a cologne/perfume scent. I know I sound crazy, but to top it off, I poured some out on my driveway, took a lighter to it, and it didn’t ignite! Please see video!

With that being said, I want to drain tank and run some lucas fuel injector cleaner. Or should I pull injectors?

View attachment short.mp4
 
If the car had not been driven for years, the fuel may be stale. If so, probably a good idea to drain it and dispose of properly (usually burns fine in the lawn mower).

Install a new filter, pour in fresh gas, and see if runs better. I like Red Line SI-1 injector cleaner but a similar high-power cleaner would be ok as well. You should only need to use this once. If it still isn't running quite right, the problem may be something else... would need specifics as to exactly how it isn't running properly.

Oh, and don't pull the injectors... let the cleaners work. There is a screen at the fuel rail inlet to keep gunk out that may have gotten past the filter. Also check the fuel hoses as seen in this thread.

:3gears:
 
Thanks for the input, I purchased redline, and unclamped the hose from the fuel pump drained a few gallons and the fuel looks much much cleaner now. I’m going to add some fresh 91, thr redline, and cross my fingers hahah.
 
When dealing with old petrol I usually drain the tank fully, fit a new fuel filter and half fill tank with fresh fuel and octane booster to improve any residual old fuel in the system. Then get it driven through the car and add cleaner in next tank.

Modern fuel can go stale in just a few months of storage so an additive/ stabilizer is recommended.
 
When dealing with old petrol I usually drain the tank fully, fit a new fuel filter and half fill tank with fresh fuel and octane booster to improve any residual old fuel in the system. Then get it driven through the car and add cleaner in next tank.

Modern fuel can go stale in just a few months of storage so an additive/ stabilizer is recommended.
Thank you so much!! I just finished dumping Redline SI-1 per GSXR recommendation and added 5 gallons of 91 on top. Ran a lot better but my ASR light kicked on and stayed on. Throttle wouldn't respond until pressing a 1/4 way down. If its not one thing its the other. I got a little glimpse of the m119 on a downshift and wow the old lady moves!
 
... but my ASR light kicked on and stayed on. Throttle wouldn't respond until pressing a 1/4 way down. If its not one thing its the other. I got a little glimpse of the m119 on a downshift and wow the old lady moves!
That would be "limp mode". You'll need to check fault codes with on all modules a hand-held blinker box and see what item is causing the trouble. Specifically you want the codes from the E-GAS module, pin #7 on the diagnostic port. Read the stickies in the "De-Coding" subforum for details. And up, when running properly, even the little 4.2L will scoot pretty well!

:3gears:
 
That would be "limp mode". You'll need to check fault codes with on all modules a hand-held blinker box and see what item is causing the trouble. Specifically you want the codes from the E-GAS module, pin #7 on the diagnostic port. Read the stickies in the "De-Coding" subforum for details. And up, when running properly, even the little 4.2L will scoot pretty well!

:3gears:
Gotcha, I ordered a reader off of ebay (so I am waiting for that to come in. I pulled the led blink codes and got codes 6 and 9. 6 for idle speed controller inoperative and 9 for not plugging in the Intake Air Temp Sensor behind drivers headlight.
 

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The built-in LED only shows a generic code that is triggering the CEL on the dash. Idle speed control inop may appear with limp mode, because the electronic throttle actuator isn't working, so it can't control idle. You need the E-GAS codes to figure out why.

If the ETA (throttle body) is original - check the date code on the label - it may need a rebuild by Don Roden / RFC Electronics. But, you can get limp mode from a mis-adjusted throttle cable, bad brake light switch or NSS, or idle switch at the gas pedal. And probably a couple other things I'm forgetting.

:shocking:
 
The built-in LED only shows a generic code that is triggering the CEL on the dash. Idle speed control inop may appear with limp mode, because the electronic throttle actuator isn't working, so it can't control idle. You need the E-GAS codes to figure out why.

If the ETA (throttle body) is original - check the date code on the label - it may need a rebuild by Don Roden / RFC Electronics. But, you can get limp mode from a mis-adjusted throttle cable, bad brake light switch or NSS, or idle switch at the gas pedal. And probably a couple other things I'm forgetting.

:shocking:
WOW! Brake light switch?? The weird thing is that the external lamp failure light is lit up on my dash, but not a CEL even when it jumped into limp mode. Can a corner light not plugged in cause all this? Regardless I pulled the battery, and will give it a try again to see if it happens again tomorrow. I see some light at the end of the tunnel! I WILL GET THIS RESOLVED!
 
WOW! Brake light switch?? The weird thing is that the external lamp failure light is lit up on my dash, but not a CEL even when it jumped into limp mode.
Yep, brake light switch can cause it, but this isn't super common (although it is cheap). You usually won't get a CEL in limp mode. CEL triggers for emissions problems, and throttle control is not an emissions problem. Or, you may have to drive it more in limp mode before the CEL turns on.


Can a corner light not plugged in cause all this?
Nope, external lights won't cause limp mode, just the bulb-out indicator you are seeing.


Regardless I pulled the battery, and will give it a try again to see if it happens again tomorrow. I see some light at the end of the tunnel! I WILL GET THIS RESOLVED!
Disconnecting the battery won't do anything. Limp mode resets each time you re-start the car. Next time when you start it, see if limp mode occurs immediately before you touch the gas or brake, or if it happens when you press the accelerator, etc. You'll need codes unless you want to throw parts at it.

:spend:
 
Just took her out for a spin, ASR light next to the CEL kicked on and went into limp mode. Back out of my driveway, hit the brakes multiple times, and stayed on the brakes to shift to D. Still no light. Once I gave it some juice to get moving off the stop sign ASR was light and throttle went to poopoo. This diagnostic tool needs to get here already!
 

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