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Engine not getting any gas.

jgt157

E500E Enthusiast
Member
My 400e has been sitting for a couple of years and hasn't been started in that time. I've replaced the lower wiring harness and have done some other work to it like replacing the transmission. I drained the old gas out of the car and put in some new gas in a couple of weeks ago. I hooked the battery back up yesterday and tried starting the car and after doing some troubleshooting realized the engine isn't getting any gas. Any idea of what I should check? I'm thinking of changing out the old gas filter, but I'm also thinking I might have a fuel pump issue also.

Also, I noticed when I had the car jacked up yesterday, that I was getting a little bit of gas leaking of the very rear of the car. Sounds like something on the top of the tank is leaking. I have no idea how to get to the gas tank in this car to check it.

JimT
 
Jim, can you confirm if the fuel pumps run for 2 seconds when you turn the ignition on? If not, figure out why... the fuel pump relay is located under the passenger rear seat cushion, and gets a signal from the LH module. If you manually trigger the relay and the pumps still don't run, the pumps may be seized. Check the fuse in the relay as well. Better yet, check fuel pressure at the rail if you have a gauge; should be 50-60psi when cranking.

Access the fuel tank by removing the carpet in front of it... held in by 2 plastic 2-piece rivets at the top, and slides into grooves in the side carpets. With that out of the way you can access the fuel tank. About the only place it can leak near the top is the level sending unit, which is unlikely. You'll need to get in there and look for the source.

:detective:
 
When you turn the on the ignition you should hear the fuel pumps running for a few seconds.
Pumps are located under the car, under a plastic cover near the right rear seat.

Same time, Dave. [emoji2]
 
Yeah, I had no pressure in the fuel rail at all. I disconnected the fuel line and had my wife crank the motor over and was getting no fuel. So I need to remove the rear seat to get to the fuel pump relay. I was listening and didn't hear any noise coming from the fuel pump. I'll check the fuel relay next. Thanks for the info.

JimT
 
My pumps were running and not making pressure, i'm guessing diaphragms in pumps fell apart after 5 years setting. New ones on the way (with filter).
 
And the accumulator. Have a real good look at the hoses too, 25 year old hoses may need to be replaced, inspect them closely. The wiring to the pumps should be looked at for integrity of the insulation at the bend points up the harness. Rubbing and vibration is the problem usually not eco-junk. Just have a good look.
 
Ok, got the new pumps in and it started right up! So now its chugging like its missing. Once it warms up, the idle rolls up and down. All the plugs, wires and cap rotor are new. Could it be injectors? And how would it check them.
 
I'm wondering when the last time the fuel pressure regulator was changed. If you think the fuel pump diaphrams were compromised by fuel sitting for five years, maybe it did the same to the pressure regulator. Could it be bad gas still in the system? Are you getting any codes?
 
Have you pulled codes to see if anything shows up? I doubt if it is injectors - they very rarely go bad. You likely do have bad gasoline in the tank, if it's been sitting for five years.
 
I haven't check the codes yet, i don't have an engine light on though. i need to learn how to check it. I did completely drain the tank and filled it with fresh gas and a bottle of sea-foam additive.
I'm wondering when the last time the fuel pressure regulator was changed. If you think the fuel pump diaphragms were compromised by fuel sitting for five years, maybe it did the same to the pressure regulator. Could it be bad gas still in the system? Are you getting any codes?
I can still rev the engine pretty good, don't think its starving for gas.
 
I haven't check the codes yet, i don't have an engine light on though. i need to learn how to check it.

A code reader should be your first project if you intend to keep the car. There's a HOW-TO on Jim Forgione's site that I used to build mine from parts at Radio Shack. K6JRF Auto Page

I can't count how many times I've used it. BTW, the Check Engine light is only going to come on if you have a code on the Diagnostic Module (Socket 19 on the 38-pin cannon plug) which is mostly related to emissions. There are four other modules that you will be able to check with a code reader.

If you're really into this, like Site Honcho, Lowman, GSXR and other experts here, you can buy a Chinese Star Diagnostic knock-off so you can read the digital (sub) information from the EA/CC/ISC that you won't be able to read with the analog code reader. If you have problems with your ETA, you'll wish you had it (I know I did). This is on my to-do list, but I've avoided it because I'm afraid it might be beyond my computer skills to set one up on an old Windows XP or 7 laptop; Plus, it's easier for me to change out an ETA than set up a computer with the diagnostic software on it.
 
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After 5 years of sleep, it may just want to run for a couple of hundreds of miles to come down a little bit
 
Ok, got the new pumps in and it started right up! So now its chugging like its missing. Once it warms up, the idle rolls up and down. All the plugs, wires and cap rotor are new.
Oscillating idle may be a vacuum leak. Check EVERY vacuum hose and pipe, there are a bunch of them. A smoke test speeds up the process.


Could it be injectors? And how would it check them.
It is extremely unlikely to be faulty injectors. If it runs smoothly on all 8 cylinders, and the RPM just oscillates, the injectors are probably fine.


I haven't check the codes yet, i don't have an engine light on though. i need to learn how to check it.
Everything Jon posted above is correct. However, in this case, you may not see any codes... fuel supply problems, and vacuum leaks, generally don't trigger fault codes.


I did completely drain the tank and filled it with fresh gas and a bottle of sea-foam additive.
Fresh gas is always good, one more item to rule out.


I can still rev the engine pretty good, don't think its starving for gas.
The engine can rev fine under no load (parked) but if it stumbles while driving/accelerating, it could still be fuel related. Since pumps are new, next item to look at is the regulator, cheap insurance at $40 if you haven't yet replaced it.
 

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