OWNER Eno

[nocfn]

Also is that smoke coming from the exhaust manifolds in back of engine? Did the half moons of the valve cover seal twist on install?

 

[Eno]

I personally took a look at the back of the valve covers after the mechanic placed the new gaskets and I remember that I saw clearly the half moons and I even ran my hand to feel them and they were straight/even or looked properly intstalled.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TerryA]

Eno,

Everybody has thier own idea on oil but why so thin? 0-40 is awfully thin on start-up. Especially in high temp weather.

My car has always had 20-50 here in SoCal. I use no oil in 5K to 6K miles. I did try Mobil 1 15-50 once but my car didn't like it and I thought it used some. After switching to Royal Purple 20-50 20K miles back no more problems. I have 142K miles on my car now.

Unless you are racing what benifit from thin oil?

 

[gsxr]

I agree with Terry. In general, the M119 is better suited to something like a 10W-40 (what I use in my cars) or even 20W-50 in hot climates. This may or may not have anything to do with the new issue you have with smoking though.

 

[Eno]

I agree with you guys, my mistake about the thin oil.
I didn't find what I was looking for and optted for the 0W-40 Mobil1 at the time.
I will changed it immediately to 20W-50 fully synthetic.

Thank you,
Eno


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[e500.org]

Eno, sorry to hear you are having troubles with your car, would make sense to have that fixed before fitting all of those nice OEM parts. I hope it would be a relatively easy fix. I used to use 10w40 in my 500E however that was in the UK where the climate is different. My E55 AMG W210 [admin note: with M113 engine] uses 5W40 fully synthetic and seems to be fine for Dubai heat.

I am in Doha often on business and it would be great to meet you and see your cars. PM me with your number and we can stay in touch.

Bilal

 

[Eno]

I almost gave up on the car to sell it, but I will be patient and make a complete overhaul on the engine and transmission with OEM parts of course.
I have so much plans and new parts for this car to give up now I guess.

My dad is suggesting I sell the car as it is because I have to ship it in a container back home and plus I have to pay customs approx. 2300 USD.

The car has no transmission leak or differential leak.
Also maybe that's why the oil pressure is a bit low in my opinion (between 1 and 2) on idle.
All oils are in the trunk of the car in boxes.

But unfortunately the labor charges here in Doha are ridiculously and unbelievably expensive!
I wanted to enjoy the car here where I live and work but not possible.

So now I am planning to ship this 1992 500E Midnight Blue back home to Tirana, Albania in the next months maybe in Sep.
I will install the rest of the OEM parts back home after the following to be done:
- engine rebuild probably at the official MB dealer Auto Star in Tirana, Albania as I can trust them using all specific torques.
- full transmission overhaul in another tranny specialist which has 25 years experience and worked in Europe previously.
- headliner and other interior parts to be done (I am thinking stitching upholstery for the dash maybe)
- new E500 OE headlights to be purchased.
- face lift the car with a new hood and trunk as I already have both new OE spares in Albania.
- and finally paint the car full 904 code at one of the best body paint shops in Albania where cars come in from Germany and Italy to be fixed/painted and go back to EU.
- new door seals and sunroof seal to be purchased
- already have all new seals for the hood
- i need to order the trunk rubber seal whee the trunk seats.
- in about a year I have a feeling the car will come out nice.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Eno]

Already preparing for a complete engine overhaul.
I hope there is no other surprises.





Can I use the same oil pan gasket when I rebuild the engine since I only drove the car 50 km?
Or might as well place all the kit?
I still have to order the chain rail guides, I think there are a total of 8 or 9 pieces.
And some other engine block plugs I think they are called.
I will also order crankshaft and piston rods,
might as well do everything so the matching numbers engine is healthy and I will maintain it properly the way it is supposed to.
Of course new valve lifters.
Do I need a new chain also?
New plastic oil separator.
Also there is a small part with grooves to be ordered in front of the crankshaft I forgot the name what's it called.

Also the front and rear engine seal was good and not leaking from what I observed on the previous works a few months ago.


New OE facelift hood/bonnet.




New OE trunk/lid.

 

[TerryA]

Eno,

If your going to rebuild the engine. I would for sure install new crankshaft seals as well as all seals on the engine.
The car has 178K km/100K+ miles on it and is 25 years old. Why invest all that time & $$$ and leave any old cooked seals? Or for that matter any old rubber hoses? Change them all it's cheap insurance.

 

[Eno]

Thank you Terry,
Actually I don't know exactly what is needed in total parts.

I will read the How-To on the engine rebuild.
So the kits I have does not include these seals?

Oh, for sure I change them all, I don't want to miss nothing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gsxr]

Eno, before you do ANYTHING else, can you have a competent shop prove absolutely that the engine needs to be torn down for serious work? There may be a simpler explanation. Are you losing (burning) coolant or oil in significant quantities? I'm guessing that at worst it might just be head gaskets... the bottom end almost never needs to be touched on the M119. If it does get taken apart to any degree, definitely re-seal everything so it's clean and dry afterwards.

Alternatively - pick up a good spare engine (they are cheap in USA, not sure about Quatar) and drop that in for now so you can drive the car... then put the original engine on a stand and take your time with the repairs.

There is still a chance your engine is fine, and there is another explanation for the smoking...

 

[Eno]

Thank you for the advise Dave.
I haven't notice loosing any coolant or oil, but I did not drive it that much.
I agree, the engine will be opened by a qualified MB dealer back home.
The labor charges to just open a valve cover here in Qatar are very expensive.
I have parked the car Dave and preparing for shipping in a couple of months back to Europe.

Thanks again.
Eno



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Eno]

I am gathering a few transmission parts for my 1992 500E Midnight Blue as I will also completely rebuild the tranny also on this car, not only the engine.

I have the Transmission kit, kickdown switch, thrust spring back home.
I just purchased the following
Overload tranny switch
Valve

Also I purchased some incomplete transmission discs
They are required 5,5,4

I want to have all new parts available when I rebuild the transmission next summer at a famous Automatic Transmission Shop called A.T.S.L back home in Albania.
They rebuild thousands of transmissions and send them back into EU companies.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Eno]

Also I purchased the right Gleitpaste for the sunroof.

Also I got three small cans of MB Lock Cylinder Grease Spray for all my W124s

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Eno]

My 1992 Midnight Blue 500E just arrived in my home country Albania from Qatar where I live and work.
Customs paid in Albania.
Now step at a time.
Transmission rebuilt/overhaul. Later engine rebuilt kit and 32 valve lifters and valve seals, etc, etc.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Eno]

Some more small transmission parts for the overhaul.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Eno]

I purchased an early Sachs fan clutch for my 92 Midnight Blue.

It appears to be made in 1993.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Eno]

I purchased a NOS NLA Tachometer for the Trip Computer cluster of this Midnight Blue 500E as part of my restoration process as the old tachometer seems faded.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Eno]

Original flex discs for the driveline for 500E.
I love the smell of the OE rubber [emoji3]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Eno]

Fuel pressure regulator 3.8 bar as per EPC.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Eno]

I just purchased another 1991 500E Bornite Metallic

We have been talking to each other about the positive and negative things about the car and he gave me the green light to purchase the car on his behalf.

VIN: WDB1240361B497454

Datacard: Mercedes VIN Decoder | Decode Your Mercedes-Benz VIN

The car needs lots of parts of course more than 5000 usd, probably 11,000 usd in parts.
As per him it will be a full bottom up restoration.

It’s a shame to part this car out for parts.
He does restorations himself and very good quality work on cars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[gsxr]

I just purchased another 1992 500E Bornite Metallic for my best friend in Albania.

The car needs lots of parts of course more than 5000 usd, probably 11,000 usd in parts. As per him it will be a full bottom up restoration.

It’s a shame to part this car out for parts. He does restorations himself and very good quality work on cars.

Great to hear this rare bird will be restored! It looks completely fixable. I love the color combo, glad this wasn't for sale anywhere near me or it would have been awfully tempting.

Nice options too - trip computer, heated seats, manual HVAC, no roller blind, and "sound system". This is a very early build car, btw. Netherlands delivery means it should have the oil cooler as well.

 

[Benz]

Those are some cool options and awesome color !

 

[Eno]

Thanks Dave,
Yes it does have the oil cooler, I saw it behind the front bumper.
Our passion for .036 is common amongst us.
My friend agrees also, it’s worth restoring it.

Dave, why is the cluster 300km in the trip computer?

Have you ever seen this before?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[gsxr]

The 300kph speedo was likely an modification post-delivery. Would be interesting to see if the car has any modifications to support this, i.e. vMax delimiter, and/or taller gear ratio (2.65 instead of stock 2.82). Or it might just be for looks. See if it reads accurately (check against GPS at speed), if not, it was just a faceplate swap without re-calibration.

Your friend should post a separate OWNER thread on this car!

 

[Eno]

I decided to purchase a brand new, zero km complete MB W124 E500 late 1995 production M119.974 engine.
Engine number: 119 974 12 010281

Purchased directly from Mercedes Benz years ago in Bavaria, near Landsberg.

I will decide if I will use it on my restoration project for my 1992 Midnight Blue 1992 which I believe my original engine has timing issues, hydraulic valves issues.

I don’t know what will I do, but step at a time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[e500.org]

I decided to purchase a brand new, zero km complete MB W124 E500 late 1995 production M119.974 engine.
Engine number: 119 974 12 010281

Purchased directly from Mercedes Benz years ago in Bavaria, near Landsberg.

I will decide if I will use it on my restoration project for my 1992 Midnight Blue 1992 which I believe my original engine has timing issues, hydraulic valves issues.

I don’t know what will I do, but step at a time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Well done. If you don't use this I want it!!!! (As well as everyone else on this board) !!

 

[195910]

Very nice find

 

[Eno]

1992 500E w/ASR rebuild ETA with FLRY-B + outer heat protection.
It’s time to rebuild your ETA’s as the wires inside get hot and cold so many times.
Even if they “look” ok it’s time to change the wires and protection outside.

I also have one with the original silicone wire with
11 wires completely sealed in 85cm silicone Mercedes Benz.
The price from MB for 85cm silicone loom in 250euro.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Eno]

[video=youtube;4h4mtaiQ4Z4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h4mtaiQ4Z4[/video]
https://youtu.be/4h4mtaiQ4Z4



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[gsxr]

Neat video! I wonder how they built that test rig?

 

[Eno]

Neat video! I wonder how they built that test rig?

I don’t know Dave, I will ask the guy, but the best part of the video I like when he says “smooth like butter” [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[gerryvz]

I think Dave is jealous over such a test setup....

 

[gsxr]

I think Dave is jealous over such a test setup....

 

[lowman]

I think Dave is jealous over such a test setup....

nope..he only wants Butter

 

[Eno]

I am in the process of rebuilding the original engine of my Midnight Blue ‘92 500E.

The MB shop stated that there was engine oil presence on the left and right intake valves more than usual.
Has anyone had the same experience?

Cylinder looks ok as per main engine guy with very fine scratches with are normal.

He did not recommend to repair one, he stated it does not need it.
Only needs piston rings.

Maybe from the vapor tubes which gets mixed up with tank fumes?

As soon as the new plugs are cleaned, ans they started again the engine the sparg plugs became wet with oil.

Valve seal kits are ready, all engine gaskets kits,
32 hydraulic valves, chain rail guides, etc.
Do I need to replace the rod bearings also down?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[gsxr]

There's always a little oil from the PCV system, I'm curious how much is present.

Is the engine just "started" and the plugs are wet with oil, or is the car driven so it's fully up to operating temp, and there's still oil on the plugs shortly after cleaning? I assume stock F8DC4 plugs?

Since you are taking apart the bottom end to replace the piston rings, it makes sense to replace the crank/rod bearings while you're in there... they aren't that expensive, are they? If the bearings look new they could probably be re-used though.

 

[Rouven036]

Replacing the rod bearings won't hurt once you are in there. Replace the con rod bolts too. There is only one size of rod bearings, no tolerance steps as for the mains.
In the alusil liners the rings usually wear out. You can identify this by measuring ring gap.
Make sure you get the right rings (there are different versions) and you check the ring play after cleaning the pistons. The rings must sit "without" play (up/down) in the grooves...

Also clean the bores in the front timing cover, heads and block for the exhaust gas recirculation. The passages are likely to get blocked with carbon.


Edit: wohooo my evilst post nbr. 666

 

[msq]

Edit: wohooo my evilst post nbr. 666

Oh my God, the Devil helped me do homework on my E60....I am toast

I am going to hell in a handbasket as my parents used to say when I was a kid....but at least I will get there fast now.

 

[Eno]

Thank you guys for your input.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Eno]

Fine scratches, but it’s ok as per the MB experts.
New piston ring sets should be ok I guess.

They were just worried about the oil presence on some exhaust channel grroves between the intake manifold and the cylinder heads if I understood them correctly.
I don’t know what they are called exactly.

Is it true that nothing can be done inside the cylinder block for the fine scratches?

Isn’t there a honing process for this type of fine scratches?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[gsxr]

Why in the world aren't they pulling the engine out for this level of work?!

The vertical scratches in the cylinder bores most likely cannot be eliminated without boring oversize, etching the block, and replacing the pistons. I don't know if the vertical scratches are anything to be concerned about, or what caused them. See page 4 in FSM job 01-0200 here, it seems to indicate that if the scratches are only near the top and not easily felt, you are fine... but otherwise, uh-oh:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/119/01-0200.pdf

Here's a more detailed document on the Alusil boring / honing / etching process, which you hopefully do not need:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/general/aluminum_engine_reconditioning.pdf

 

[TerryA]

Wow,

That’s a lot of parts!!

I’m curious about something. I would not expect to see rust residue in the water passages. Where is the exposed steel in this all aluminum engine? I don’t think any steel bolts should be exposed to the coolant. Does anybody have any ideas what caused this condition? Maybe not having the proper coolant mix helped this rust condition along. It looks superficial and probably harmless.

Eno, I wish you only the best on your re-build.

 

[Eno]

Yes Dave, that’s what I thought also.....

BTW, this is the official Mercedes Benz dealership in Albania.
Full engine rebuild at the one and only Official Mercedes Benz dealership in Albania.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[r44raven]

Eno!

I really felt for you and your dilemma. Get the car home to Germany, and to a reputable repair shop!

 

[Rouven036]

Some comments from my side to this:

The scratches in the cylinder liners except in photo 15 and 16 are very common on middle east cars as long not GREATEST care is taken on air filter replacement. Tribute to the dust but this has usually NO noticeable effect on performance nor oil consumption. However the cylinders on photo 15 and 16 will have effect on compression and oil consumption. To which level though is to be experienced. New rings will not help much there.
The corrosion traces are also a typical tribute to the middle east where it is a custom to run engines without antifreeze...and often without thermostats or blocked heater supply lines.
The dealer shall check for the originally supply citric acid powder for cleaning the cooling passages! There is a part number for it (don't have it by hand right now) also a work procedure is somewhere buried in WIS.

Further: definetly the engine has to come out fo that job, the rods should not touch the cylinder liners while getting them out or back in and this is likely to happen when the engine is still in the car.
Con rod bearings are a no brainer to change, necessary or not doesn't matter there. Also get new rod bolts too.

So what you want to do with the car? Depends pretty much on that. Keeper: oversize pistons

To flip: minimum amount of work to get rid of the smoke with not 100% predictable outcome is rings only.

+all other required parts for the job in both cases....

 

[Eno]

Thank you for your feedback and the clear explanation.
Of course this Midnight Blue .036 is a keeper Rouven for myself.
The MB dealer engineer tells me not to worry as it will be done as per MB standards with all the M119 official tools to be used.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Rouven036]

You are welcome Eno.
It's fine to work as per standards but the pictures for the mentioned two cylinders are out of that (specifically on something visible on pic16 in the center of the bore close to the piston, on the biggest scratch you can see scuffed aluminum (like ripples in the scratch) these are likely to get bigger over time). The rest as mentioned fine and covered.
Let them also check the edges of the water passages of the facees on the heads and block. Often corrosion eats the alloy away in these areas.

 

[Eno]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Eno]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro