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Fire in the rain, electronics failure. Engine won't crank.

null

'95 E420
Member
I believe the lack of maintenance and the wires slowly degrading caused this problem over time.
Disclaimer right away: upper engine harness has been replaced, but the lower engine wiring harness is shattering into pieces (oil pressure always shows max, oil light coming on although the level has been fine), and the car does not have the lower plastic splash guard installed.

The main incident happened after driving on a highway in heavy rain for couple dozen miles.

After coming to stop to drop off the passenger I noticed a weird rattling near cat converter / gearbox area. Cat has been replaced with the brand new one a month ago to pass the smog (After my previous adventures of exhaust almost catching fire). I drove around 100 feet to a parking lot, (maybe I'm imagining it, but I think the turning started getting heavier?) and wanted to check the oil level just in case, as the light was still on. Turned off the car, waited in the rain for about 10 minutes, opened the hood to check the oil level(guess my biggest mistake? it was still raining heavily). It seemed fine, so I started the car and drove off, but as I slowed down for the nearby stop sign all the electronics suddenly cut off - no wipers no lights.
The engine was still running but barely, I pushed the accelerator(it became dull, limp mode I guess?) and made it off the road, I got a scent of burning in the interior, turned the engine off right away and rolled to stop. Grabbed my extinguisher🧯, opened up the engine compartment, and started looking for the fire, soon under the passenger side exhaust headers I saw a tiny tiny flame(ones you would get on a very hot metal?) and put it out. Later I thought it could be the oil greese on the engine burning?
338628566_3200867433538295_3904759492191735032_n.jpg
Location where I saw the small flame, under the exhaust header. Right after I put it out.

As a result, all the electronics seem to work fine, but the engine won't crank.

Here is my hypothesis which I cannot really prove yet: I think due to wet electronics somehow the starter got engaged with the car while the engine was still on. this caused overheating of the starter- thus small fire from under the passenger side under the exhaust header. And car won't start due to the failed starter & lower harness.
But with my limited knowledge, I cannot really explain why a potentially seized starter would cause the electronic shutoff? Guess if the starter was really latched it would have overwhelmed the electronics?
My main argument is the wet cable box behind the CAN box, on the passenger side, I believe that's where the lower harness connected to the starter goes in.
336467454_219792370728620_9009223050448525092_n.jpg
The area is full of soil (is "grounded" 😃), although wet. I believe when I opened the hood for the first time, all the water from it flowed down into this compartment. I didn't really smell much burning in this area, most of it was coming from behind the engine, but somehow I could smell it more on the driver's side.

I tried to find burnt-out culprits with my nose, the fuse and relay box seemed fine, and the interior vent tunnel seemed fine too.
338573133_1576276152889558_778597493830036518_n.jpg338729726_1360983028031893_5700196122398239554_n.jpg

My current work plan is to change the lower wiring harness(build one or order from BlueridgeMB) and get to the starter to see if it's seized(We already have the HOWTO thread).
But before I jump to it wanted to hear your advice perhaps there is any fuse or relay associated with the starter which I should check? I'll dry and clean out the connector box behind the CAN box.

The diagnostic module shows blinks:
6: Idle speed control incorrect, fault from EA/CC/ISC
17: CAN communication faulty between control units.
26(perhaps unrelated): Transmission upshift delay switch valve(Y3/3) without function.

I had to drop off the car far from home. I do remember checking pin 4 with the blinker, it was clear. Although I think pin 7 was clear too, I'll give it another try next time I get to the car.

One more thing that may be completely unrelated: A week ago out of nowhere the driver-side headlamp wiper started to turn on unintentionally as the headlamps come on (no windshield wipers on), first time in two years of ownership, didn't know that thing was even alive. Guess it was another reminder of how old the wiring was.
 
:update:

My hypothesis was partially right
Put the car on 8" raise ramps yesterday and started disassembling the lower harness + starter. Removing the 2 starter bolts was PITA but since I smelled the burning closer I got to the starter, there was no way I was gonna give up.

And there laid the culprit:
340186996_942039573603425_5572680216694158004_n.jpg
The connection between the solenoid and the gears was melted 🔥
I put the starter to the full test by applying 12V with a separate power source, no reaction only sparks.
340239937_531050169183496_5135383358794223146_n.jpg
BOSCH Part number 0-331-303-115, was this original?

Already ordered Reman Bosch SR461X replacement. The bolts seem fine, I put the drive all the way in when removing them with a breaker bar.
The thick power wire on the lower wiring harness seemed alright. The smaller 3+1 wires were all roasted. Will rebuild the wiring harness properly.
340282726_192743390188246_8608352448269735484_n.jpg

Conclusion:
I guess the started latched with the engine while the car was on the move, it got overheated and clogged, thus the rattling sound and initial loss of power. The failure would have caused the short circuit through the starter, thus the cut-out of electronics up until the solenoid connection melted through causing the small fire.

Will rebuild the harness myself and put everything back together when the new starter arrives 🙃
 

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