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Gerry's Engine and Engine Bay
- Thread starter Ron500E
- Start date
Are you talking about "Gerry curl" ???
I wouldn't bother with Gerry! From previous comments he likes to use his cars , so a bit of grime here and there, bumps and graze is what comes with it. Who knows he may even end up with Patina look someday 
.
Now if it's a wiki on How to write a HOW TO , then he wins my vote. !
. Now if it's a wiki on How to write a HOW TO , then he wins my vote. !
We all want to see if the tail can wag the dog. . .
In other words, can we, the subordinates, compel the Allied Supreme Commander to do yet another "how to?""
I don't do anything unless GVZ makes a "how to" (along with all tools and parts needed) and walks me through the procedure. You know, it is the FEAR factor that I might mess something up.
I know, eventually, that I will have to just grow up and (gasp) look up my own part number, search for "other" how to's, and generally fin for myself,
but I am a Toys or US kid at heart and don't want to grow up!
For now, I'll just continue learning from the professionals, because I am still a beginner.
As Shultz would say: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmzsWxPLIOo
In other words, can we, the subordinates, compel the Allied Supreme Commander to do yet another "how to?""
I don't do anything unless GVZ makes a "how to" (along with all tools and parts needed) and walks me through the procedure. You know, it is the FEAR factor that I might mess something up.
I know, eventually, that I will have to just grow up and (gasp) look up my own part number, search for "other" how to's, and generally fin for myself,
but I am a Toys or US kid at heart and don't want to grow up!
For now, I'll just continue learning from the professionals, because I am still a beginner.
As Shultz would say: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmzsWxPLIOo
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We want to see the "products" you use in action.
How about this?
[youtube]TAbec_xzUyo[/youtube]
http://catalog.crcindustries.com/app.php?RelId=6.4.7.2
Here's another great option. 
http://k6jrf.com/MB_detail.html
This ought to REALLY blind Vader for the rest of the day.....
http://k6jrf.com/MB_detail.html
This ought to REALLY blind Vader for the rest of the day.....
Here's another great option.
http://k6jrf.com/MB_detail.html
This ought to REALLY blind Vader for the rest of the day.....
Tire shine, I knew that's what you used.
On Brakleen, I've been using that for over 20 years, maybe longer.
Not for detailing, but to diagnose oil leaks. No baby powder here.
We would spray down the wet area, run the car on a lift and keep spraying until we pin pointed
where the leak was originating from.
Also good for wiping down the gasket flange on cylinder head covers.
Really helps the rubber gasket stay in place.
Clark, I never said I used/use either of those products for cleaning my engine. I just noted that they are potential options.
You should purchase Kent's on-demand engine bay cleaning video and "enlighten" yourself
:clarkz3:
You should purchase Kent's on-demand engine bay cleaning video and "enlighten" yourself
:clarkz3:
I appreciate your concern, but I've been cleaning and detailing MB engine compartments
since before you bought your first MB. Over 30 years in fact.
When I started in 82, part of the 30K service was cleaning and detailing the entire engine bay.
So I learned back then what works and what doesn't. We used pure silicone spay on plastic parts
I believe it was 3M brand, held up well.
And as far as Kent's video's................. please...... No offense to Dave.
definitely!
That's good, I was kind of worried there that perhaps your knowledge wasn't "current" and up to date on this stuff. :x
lots of tongue and cheek here- but really. Underneath when the oil residue gets that dirt caked on it's very hard to remove. It's hard film. Scrubbing with solvent seems abrasive to the paint. It doesn't loosen up with brakekleen. I think it needs soaking with something with a slower evaporation point. Maybe spray it down with kerosene?
Moved away from Brakekleen and use aerospace grade isopropyl alcohol. It's $80/5 gallons and a spray bottle.
M
Moved away from Brakekleen and use aerospace grade isopropyl alcohol. It's $80/5 gallons and a spray bottle.
M
How about the finish on head covers? I am always careful about using anything that might harm the paint/finish.
To quote Jeff's at the 2013 Legends of the Autobahn:
Spectator admiring his 500E - "Do you mind me asking how you keep your engine compartment so clean?"
Jeff (after a few pints of Spaten) - "We'll.... I guess the best way is really to not let it get dirty in the first place"
So although I definitely have a mild case of OCD and keep my cars (and especially the engines) ridiculously clean, Jeff is definitely "the master" in this department. All I can tell you is there is definitely some validity to his claim, you just need to stay on top of it and not let it get too bad.
My daily driver:
I use a fairly weak solution of Simple Green and a toothbrush, then a spray bottle with water to rinse. After everything is clean, I use 303 Protectant on most everything. It puts a fantastic luster, but not shine, on rubber and plastic. And it lasts a long time. I use it on the rear view mirror rubber, dash and steering wheel horn push. UV protection, too. It's expensive but very worth it, in my experience.
303 Protectant is excellent for dashboards, 124/126 door mirror boots, and so forth. A quarterly application I have found, works quite well.
However, I would not recommend the use of Simple Green, even significantly diluted, on engine & underhood components because it is not compatible with aluminum components. It is also NOT good for painted components.
If you leave Simple Green on aluminum or painted components, it will corrode (eat) them. At minimum, turn aluminum into a dull, grayish color. And it is difficult to remove once applied, because it wicks into holes and difficult-to-reach places.
I know many folks dilute SG 50-50 or even more, and use it for cleaning. I think it's great for some things, but don't let it near my engine bay or aluminum components. I've seen it PERSONALLY dull out aluminum stuff.
Cheers,
Gerry
However, I would not recommend the use of Simple Green, even significantly diluted, on engine & underhood components because it is not compatible with aluminum components. It is also NOT good for painted components.
If you leave Simple Green on aluminum or painted components, it will corrode (eat) them. At minimum, turn aluminum into a dull, grayish color. And it is difficult to remove once applied, because it wicks into holes and difficult-to-reach places.
I know many folks dilute SG 50-50 or even more, and use it for cleaning. I think it's great for some things, but don't let it near my engine bay or aluminum components. I've seen it PERSONALLY dull out aluminum stuff.
Cheers,
Gerry
My eyes....my eyes !!!To quote Jeff's at the 2013 Legends of the Autobahn:
Spectator admiring his 500E - "Do you mind me asking how you keep your engine compartment so clean?"
Jeff (after a few pints of Spaten) - "We'll.... I guess the best way is really to not let it get dirty in the first place"
So although I definitely have a mild case of OCD and keep my cars (and especially the engines) ridiculously clean, Jeff is definitely "the master" in this department. All I can tell you is there is definitely some validity to his claim, you just need to stay on top of it and not let it get too bad.
My daily driver:
[youtube]U7BglTGucQ[/youtube]
That's no where near as "bro'd up" as yours.
I can vouch for the head honcho, never use simple green, especially on painted surfaces.
From personal experience, it softens the paint and seems to make it more susceptible to oil and grime "stains".
I cleaned the underside of a hood (not an MB car) and it did clean the surface fairly well. But for a while, it felt as if the paint was a paint that never cured. It had no shine to it any longer and the next time I went to clean is, the paint just got grease and oil smudges.
If you want a clean engine that you can eat off of, I suggest using mild cleaners and an a very soft tooth brush and a micro fiber towel. Have on hand a box of q-tips, plastic picks and anything else your OCD mind can think of.
Personally, I have learned by the school of hard knocks to control the OCD and just drive the damn car.
Clean the engine when looking for leaks is good. But after the leak is fixed, drive the car-unless it's a show car.
From personal experience, it softens the paint and seems to make it more susceptible to oil and grime "stains".
I cleaned the underside of a hood (not an MB car) and it did clean the surface fairly well. But for a while, it felt as if the paint was a paint that never cured. It had no shine to it any longer and the next time I went to clean is, the paint just got grease and oil smudges.
If you want a clean engine that you can eat off of, I suggest using mild cleaners and an a very soft tooth brush and a micro fiber towel. Have on hand a box of q-tips, plastic picks and anything else your OCD mind can think of.
Personally, I have learned by the school of hard knocks to control the OCD and just drive the damn car.
Clean the engine when looking for leaks is good. But after the leak is fixed, drive the car-unless it's a show car.
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My experience is the opposite
I started using Simple Green in 1985 on my Motorcycles
You must follow the directions, when you do it works great. I've used it on everything.
One thing I do is not let it sit, apply scrub/brush as needed the rinse.
And never apply on anything but a cold engine/wheels what ever.
My experience is the opposite
I started using Simple Green in 1985 on my Motorcycles
You must follow the directions, when you do it works great. I've used it on everything.
One thing I do is not let it sit, apply scrub/brush as needed the rinse.
And never apply on anything but a cold engine/wheels what ever.
+1. I've used SG on aluminum with good results too. I think it was in the aircraft industry that they found SG to be a problem with aluminum, specifically where sheets of aluminum are joined. SG would wick between the layers and cause corrosion between the sheets.
Having said that, these days I more often use ZEP Heavy Duty Citrus Degreaser, I think it works better then SG for grease/grime removal.
Proper cleaning procedure:
1) Remove engine
2) Clean engine
3) Install engine
[youtube]IumBp15irvM[/youtube]
Stuff's as good as ductape, except it's in a can. Dayum, that's a good price, and my local 'Cheapot has 14 cans in stock, and the other near one has 12 cans. I could use another case to join the two I bought from Zoro.
This Paul Mitchell extra body "finishing spray" works well after a good cleaning. You just spray it on the motor like shellac for that extra-brilliant "gerry curl" bro-juice shine.
Smells good, too...
Sorry guys, I just don't "do" Simple Green for engine bay stuff. Works great around the house, for cleaning under-engine cladding, wheel well insides, garage floor, etc. But I just won't let it around aluminum.
Smells good, too...
Sorry guys, I just don't "do" Simple Green for engine bay stuff. Works great around the house, for cleaning under-engine cladding, wheel well insides, garage floor, etc. But I just won't let it around aluminum.
He makes great points.
I blasted the lower portion of the engine at the car wash, water splashed on top of the valve cover (M104), and just enough water found its way to a coil or two, and my car ran like crap until someone here on this site suggested I blow the water out.
Brakleen (red can) works great, but heavy sludge should be brushed or scraped off first.
I blasted the lower portion of the engine at the car wash, water splashed on top of the valve cover (M104), and just enough water found its way to a coil or two, and my car ran like crap until someone here on this site suggested I blow the water out.
Brakleen (red can) works great, but heavy sludge should be brushed or scraped off first.
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I wouldn't use it on a painted surfaces either. I just don't know what the right dilution ratio is a "safe on paint" ratio. It removes wax from painted surfaces, which can be a pro, but I consider it a con.
This Paul Mitchell extra body "finishing spray" works well after a good cleaning. You just spray it on the motor like shellac for that extra-brilliant "gerry curl" bro-juice shine.
Smells good, too...
Sorry guys, I just don't "do" Simple Green for engine bay stuff. Works great around the house, for cleaning under-engine cladding, wheel well insides, garage floor, etc. But I just won't let it around aluminum.
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The original Gunk engine degreaser was the best.
Spray the 66 Plymouth engine, let it bubble and fizz, and when the fizz subsided, rinsed, bam !
Spray the 66 Plymouth engine, let it bubble and fizz, and when the fizz subsided, rinsed, bam !
That Frederick Douglass guy actually sounds, and carries himself, almost exactly like Klink.