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OWNER JC220

E36 Widebody or C124 Widebody?

  • Use the 500E widebody kit on my E36 saloon

    Votes: 2 22.2%
  • Adapt the 500E widebody kit for my 320CE

    Votes: 7 77.8%

  • Total voters
    9
  • Poll closed .
Got the E320C home today – it washed up great for a car that has been sat in a shed for 5 years! Bought as a non runner - for restoration. First mission is to get it running – then prep for MOT after repairing some of the usual jacking point rust etc. But it is a great, complete original car and I really like it!

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Restoring it stock apart from an AMG kit as one of the last jobs to do hopefully – this is the inspiration

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Also picked up some R129 / E500 replica wheels. Staggered 18’s with 10 inch rears. Come spring I’ll have them pro refurbished with a diamond cut lip, fit new tyres and use them as a second set of wheels for the 500E.

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Work on the Coupe starts tomorrow in the AM - can't wait to get started at it! :gsxracer:
 
I guess there is a first for everything- 4 different plugs in a 6 cylinder engine! I mean- WTF :a1:

But otherwise the engine is very clean inside and turns easily by wrench. Going to replace the engine harness, put some fresh fuel in it, new ignition leads, spark plugs, water pump, belt, tensioner, battery and see if it'll fire.
 

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Got the E320C home today – it washed up great for a car that has been sat in a shed for 5 years! Bought as a non runner - for restoration. First mission is to get it running – then prep for MOT after repairing some of the usual jacking point rust etc. But it is a great, complete original car and I really like it!

Great looking coupe, I have a soft spot for them, and that's one of the best colors around. My wife's 129 has a similar color combo, puts the 199's to shame, (just my opinion for the 199 lovers).

Good luck with it, and like the rest of your restores, looking forward to your future posts... O
 
Great looking coupe, I have a soft spot for them, and that's one of the best colors around. My wife's 129 has a similar color combo, puts the 199's to shame, (just my opinion for the 199 lovers).

Good luck with it, and like the rest of your restores, looking forward to your future posts... O

Hi Oscar, many thanks for the encouragement Glad you like it. I agree the Azurite is one of the best colours in particular for the coupe's. There has been a Azurite CE in a wrecking yard for years now and I often looked at it thinking - wow that would have been a great looking car.

I had an advert out for buying 124 Mercedes - as parts cars or otherwise. The seller seen my add and phoned me about his coupe which he had locked away for 5 years and didn't know what to do with it. (He had never advertised the car for sale himself) When I heard it was a 320 in my favourite colour AND with cream leather I went to see it like a rocket! So in a way the car found me. When I ran the VIN it was great to see it was also a 4 Speed auto and Sportline steering box / suspension.

I also recently promised some DIY's. Namely the Sunroof and Headlamp aim. This CE will now be the perfect test mule for that so the DIY's will be forthcoming. They take time to do properly and I don't want to hash something together either so hopefully in the coming weeks I'll get to all that.

Lots of work ahead on the coupe too but that's OK. I have a healthy budget allocated for it to bring it up to snuff - I feel the car is well worth the investment
 
So with more inspection under the car its bad and good news. Bad news is there is rust under the headlamps pretty good and it's done very well on its rear left inner fender tub. 124 637 01 60 is NLA unfortunately so the hunt begins for a donor coupe to cut these particular areas from.

A front spring is broken and the suspension and rear subframe is quite rusty. All Fuel & brake lines are rusty too. It does have 4x new genuine brake discs though!

The good news is this is now a full nut & bolt resto starting immediately. I want this thing rolling out of my garage next spring better than new underneath inc Stainless hoses, kunifer brake and fuel lines, galvanised subframe etc. It appears the rear subframe is interchangeable with the saloon models (PN 124 350 75 08) this is good as I have a good spare from a saloon ready to get blasted and galvanised now.

Then new H&R suspension kit will be installed along with new wheels & tyres etc. 100% new underneath is the plan.
 
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The good news is this is now a full nut & bolt resto starting immediately. I want this thing rolling out of my garage next spring better than new underneath inc Stainless hoses, kunifer brake and fuel lines, galvanised subframe etc. ... 100% new underneath is the plan.
You are a sick, sick man. I love it!!

:jono: :deniro: :gor-gor:
 
100% new underneath is the plan

Oh To be afflicted with OCD in the worst way .... I can relate! :-) But you sir have it worse than I .... in a good way! Your copue is lovely. I wimp out and drive an MCV (as defined by nocfn) on a daily basis to spare my 124!
 
Good luck with the resto of the Coupe, nice car indeed.

For your Indian 220, just some info (if not known yet) : it has mentioned CKD in the data card. This means "completely knocked down", this vehicle is basically produced in the (German) factory, then shipped like a kit car to India and there put together. This was and still is done in some countries due to import taxation.... There is also partly knocked down vehicles which have for example only the engine and transmission missing...
 
You are a sick, sick man. I love it!!


True! This is becoming a habit now eh..... :)


Oh To be afflicted with OCD in the worst way .... I can relate!
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But you sir have it worse than I .... in a good way! Your copue is lovely. I wimp out and drive an MCV (as defined by nocfn) on a daily basis to spare my 124!


Yes I do have a bad case of w124 OCD - It’s getting worse too as time goes on! The thought of one being in my garage with any rust at all is unbearable :doof: Glad you like the Coupe!


Ha, Ha! I love it too! Keep it up , Joe!


Thanks Stephen – yes lots more to come on this Coupe. Almost like the E36 build all over again. Which reminds me – it still needs finished too :doh:


Hi,

the H&R Cup works fine in my Coupé!

Regards

Jörg


Thankyou for the suggestion – that was a Kit I was looking at. The car has 2x brand new springs on the rear but one broken front spring and original looking shocks all around (no leaks). It seems like my best option is to just buy a whole suspension kit rather than 2x front springs + shocks separately.


Good luck with the resto of the Coupe, nice car indeed.

For your Indian 220, just some info (if not known yet) : it has mentioned CKD in the data card. This means "completely knocked down", this vehicle is basically produced in the (German) factory, then shipped like a kit car to India and there put together. This was and still is done in some countries due to import taxation.... There is also partly knocked down vehicles which have for example only the engine and transmission missing...


Thanks for the comments on the Coupe – it is a nice old machine and not something you see very often (At least in Ireland there are very few Coupes at all). Genuinely – If I were ordering one back in the day this would have been it! Coil packs are a bonus too – no more cap & rotor woes. Finding a car with a complete interior and trim is becoming increasingly important as the NLA list continues to grow. I can deal with the few areas of rust - with belts and braces approach! Hot dip galvanised 1.2mm steel is ordered for me to fabricate my repair sections from.


Yes I figured there was some Tax gain behind sending the Indian car out as a Kit. It makes sense that it may have only meant the engine & trans were shipped separate. There was a dealer in East London who specialised in bringing these in and I believe that’s just how it was brought in new. It is a shame to part it out but it’s just too far gone to save unfortunately. I had high hopes of driving it - those faded fast when I got under it with a screwdriver. It will provide many great bits for the fleet though – I have all the parts allocated in my head already to the betterment of my 124 fleet :deutscher:
 
Partway through the very first part replacement on the 320CE. The original pump did free up on it’s own & still looked serviceable inside – but new pump it is!

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I have a question for anyone who owns a C124 Coupe re: the belt presenters.

Do they wait for ignition input before extending? Ie; must you put the key in the ignition and turn it in order for them to extend out after getting into the car?

Currently hooking the battery on and simply opening / shutting the doors is doing nothing to make them work. I am loathe to turn the ignition key all the way on until I have the replacement engine harness fitted back on. It would be good to know if there is any hope they may still be operational.
 
I have a Cabrio but I believe they work the same.
My presenter comes out when you turn the key to the first position.
 
I have a Cabrio but I believe they work the same.
My presenter comes out when you turn the key to the first position.

Bogeyman, Thankyou for the reply. Position 1 on the key didn't seem to do anything so I went ahead to 2 and both presenters worked 100%!

Sunroof etc works only things that don't are the power antenna and both rear windows. Need to figure out how to coax the rear windows back to life. I'm quite sure it's lack of use that has them stuck
 
Yes key position 2 AND seatbelt Not buckled up yet, activates the presenters. Oddly enough, when I usually get into my coupe, I reach down at the seat bottom outside edge, and pick up the strap manually, then grabbing the buckle itself and snap it into place before I start the CE. This prevents the presenter from actuating whenever I remember to buckle up before the engine gets started.

I try not to use the presenter every time I drive the car, although there is high mileage on my CE, I try to keep low mileage on the presenter... :)

Just a thought and a quirk of mine, I don't want to consider having to fix the presenters, I image there are NLA parts associated with them as well, although I've never checked, no reason to so far.

The biggest use for the presenters in my CE is for passengers, they absolutely love having the seat buckle presented to them, and I get a chuckle every time they make a fuss over them.. But since there isn't a lot of passenger traffic in my CE, the passenger side isn't used that much either.

Hey, just had a thought, servicing the presenters could be your next "How To".. I'd imagine they should be cleaned and re-greased like many other assemblies in these cars...

Again, good luck with the restore on the CE... O
 
Just saw your comment on the CE rear windows being inop... did you try the switches in the rear seats as well. I have the same problem with my drivers side rear window, but I isolated the problem to the switch in the front. When using the switch in the rear seat the rear widow works fine, so when I get around to it, I need a replacement switch up front.
 
Yes key position 2 AND seatbelt Not buckled up yet, activates the presenters. Oddly enough, when I usually get into my coupe, I reach down at the seat bottom outside edge, and pick up the strap manually, then grabbing the buckle itself and snap it into place before I start the CE. This prevents the presenter from actuating whenever I remember to buckle up before the engine gets started.

I try not to use the presenter every time I drive the car, although there is high mileage on my CE, I try to keep low mileage on the presenter... :)

Just a thought and a quirk of mine, I don't want to consider having to fix the presenters, I image there are NLA parts associated with them as well, although I've never checked, no reason to so far.

The biggest use for the presenters in my CE is for passengers, they absolutely love having the seat buckle presented to them, and I get a chuckle every time they make a fuss over them.. But since there isn't a lot of passenger traffic in my CE, the passenger side isn't used that much either.

Hey, just had a thought, servicing the presenters could be your next "How To".. I'd imagine they should be cleaned and re-greased like many other assemblies in these cars...

Again, good luck with the restore on the CE... O

Hi Oscar – thanks for the replies. Yes there are NLA parts associated with the CE belt presenters; namely the plastic end pieces (Where the belt loops through) tend to break and are NLA both sides. Luckily these ones are good. These are the NLA bits I know of at a minimum – there are likely many more!

There are also differences between early and late CE presenters and they are not interchangeable. Luckily I do have 2x complete (1x par) of spare late type CE belt presenters with ECU’s attached should I need them in the future. I have read MB charges something like $2k approx. for one ECU so very good spares to hoard IMO.

I’d tend to use them though – simply because lack of use might be a worse evil!

Yes I will need to strip them out to service the rear window regulators. So certainly I could service them – possibly with Gleitpaste. (Need to find many uses for that £80 can of goo!)


Very interesting on the front switches not working in yours – for sure when I get home later I will also try the rear window switches. I can hear a click from the convenience module under the back seat when I operate the front most rear window switches. Again I have many spare switches & convenience modules to test out also if I need to.

Last night I did also install new copper / ceramic fuses as an essential item to attend to first in any 124.
 
I tried the rear window switches –no luck. Ill need to strip them down and see what’s going on.

Before I got too excited about firing the old girl up I thought I do some more basic checks. Long story short the fuel pump(s) are dead and the starter’s solenoid can be heard but it’s not turning. I also bypassed the aftermarked alarm fitted but it's a starter fault for sure. I think corrosion inside the solinoid itself from standing 5+ years. So I’m going to order a Bosch 044 Fuel pump and fit that with new hoses– then also pull the starter and alternator and have them professionally overhauled by a local specialist.

I did test the ETA as installed. It’s not updated but it is functioning correctly. Nice solid buzzing noise and the flap closely / accurately follows the throttle linkage input. I know it will need the ETA & Lower harness re-wired (Which I will do myself) but for I’m leaving them be.
 

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Just back from a half day’s parts hunting. Got some great stuff-


  • Low mileage 124 Sportline Steering Box
  • 2x 124 E320 104.922 Engine ECU’s
  • 2x rear C124 window regulators. I will overhaul /refurbish these then fit into my CE to replace the stuck originals.
  • Another spare C124 Seatbelt presenter / ECU
  • M104 engine cover (Missing on my CE)
  • A perfect C124 Azurite sunroof lid. (When opening my coupe sunroof it looked like there was corrosion on the edges of the panel itself)
  • I also got a Sept 2007 updated M104 ETA which I will now fit into my CE. Last ECO junk to deal with is the lower harness I‘ll check if I can get this new from MB and be done with it all at once.

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Soon i’ll also be collecting a spare complete 320CE low mileage engine, now having 3x m104 cars it seems like a good idea to get a spare motor to squirrel away.

The repair sections I cut myself from C124’s in order for me to carefully splice off just what I need to repair the rust in mine. The rear quarter section is NLA and this one is very good considering it’s +25 years old. This area is particularly bad on my c124 even though the rest of the boot (trunk) is perfect. Last repair section I need to find is t’other side under the headlamps. Yes there is some extreme surgery coming up but I can do it all myself including the welding /bodywork so my labour bill is £0 – just lots of investment of my time which I am cool with.

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Joe, was the Sportline steering box from a coupé, or a sedan/wagon?

:apl:
 
Joe, was the Sportline steering box from a coupé, or a sedan/wagon?

:apl:

Hi Dave, the box I removed removed from a RHD 320CE with Sportline option. (Code 653 on the VIN - is this suspension only or does it include the steering rack?) It Is a match to my CE datacard anyway so it'll be a spare for it.

It appears UK cars mostly never got the Sportline badges and seats etc- but that option code should include the steering rack-

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/sports-chassis-sportline.13519/

I was hoping it would fit my E36 (200 project car) as the saloon front end appears much the same between coupe's and saloons. Is that the case do you think?
 
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Mmmm checking the Ratio it seems like a 3.35 / 3.4 ish box. So the CE’s did NOT get the Sportline box then even if it was in the VIN as such? Aw well it’s a good spare (Spare unit no 5!:doh:) for my CE anyway since the donor was an exact match to imy CE. I did get a decent-ish package deal on all the parts yesterday including the spare complete m104 engine I’m going to collect next weekend. (From that same low mileage 1994 CE Coupe)

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It begs the question - did Sportline option on CE’s only mean springs, shocks and ARB’s?
 
Once again, 3 steering boxes were originally available for 6 cyl 124's:

Coupe/cabrio (slowest); Sedan, wagon and SportLine Coupe/Cabrio (medium); SportLine sedan/wagon (fastest).

Fitting the quickest (sedan SportLine) box (from gsxr) to my Coupe was the best part of my SportLine upgrade.
MBz didn't do it 'cause they worried it would be too twitchy for the slowly-reacting elderly target buyer...
It's not.
 
Yup - northNH nailed it. The coupé "Sportline" box is actually just the standard sedan/wagon box, and will be ~3.3-3.4 turns. :(

I have a quick-ratio sedan Sportline box for sale if anyone is interested, the quickest-ratio 3.0-3.1 turn box. Was saving it for a future project that never materialized.

:gsxracer:
 
Yup - northNH nailed it. The coupé "Sportline" box is actually just the standard sedan/wagon box, and will be ~3.3-3.4 turns. :(

I have a quick-ratio sedan Sportline box for sale if anyone is interested, the quickest-ratio 3.0-3.1 turn box. Was saving it for a future project that never materialized.

Dave am I correct in thinking your Sportline Box is on the wrong side of the engine bay for me? :) I will keep an eye out for a RHD Sportline Saloon or Estate for breaking so I can nab the box from it. Not very many about so it could take a while! I'd want it for the E36 more than the Coupe.
 
Dave am I correct in thinking your Sportline Box is on the wrong side of the engine bay for me? :) I will keep an eye out for a RHD Sportline Saloon or Estate for breaking so I can nab the box from it. Not very many about so it could take a while! I'd want it for the E36 more than the Coupe.
Good point - my steering box is for left-hand-drive. Won't work in right-hand drive models!! Quick-ratio RHD boxes must be a pretty rare item...

:apl:
 
Got the 300CE's original starter motor back from the re-furbisher. It's got a long list of new parts (Most of which I forgot already!) IIRC it was new Brushes, Bushings, Drive Pinion, Solenoid and the Commutator(?) skimmed on a lathe. Basically it's a good as brand new again inside.

What he did say was to make sure and clean the engine bell housing where the starter mates on - for earthing purposes. (I also cleaned the starter itself after the pics were taken) He also said that these old Mercedes / Bosch Starter motors should always be rebuilt as they are very well made and will last virtually forever if maintained - unlike new aftermarket motors. He's in the business 35 years and the best around. £36 for the rebuild (Inc. parts) - I don't know how he does it! 2 Year Warranty as well - it has his serial number etched on.

Gapped the new plugs at 1.0mm and test cranked it – turning very nicely now with the rebuilt starter and new 680A Bosch Battery. Could almost drive it on the starter alone! Alternator was fooked – 100% seized solid. Binned it and fitted the E220’s perfect match low miler unit. New 044 Bosch Fuel pump & filter, lines going in next, New Water Pump already in along with new Ignition Leads, belt tensioner + Belt, Belt damper and I hope this weekend will be first attempt to fire it up. I already drained the oil and poured in a gallon of Mobil Super S 15-40w. Will fit a new Oil Filter and prime it through the housing with the rest of the Oil just minutes prior to 1st startup attempt. A little oil has also been added to the bores about a week ago, turned it by wrench first then just a few seconds on the starter tonight – The engine internals are pristine - as previous pics above. So I expect the cyl bores are no different really but just being careful to give it a most gentle re-awakening

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Dave: I might be interested in the Sportline steering box you're offering for sale. What's the cost and could a middle of the road DIYer install it or best left to a shop?

Thanks,

Peter Weissman
 
Dave: I might be interested in the Sportline steering box you're offering for sale. What's the cost and could a middle of the road DIYer install it or best left to a shop?

Thanks, Peter Weissman
Peter, I sent you a PM, please let me know if you don't receive it. :)
 
Has anyone got any tips on buying a used motor? (Other than not to!!) :)

I am going to a Salvage yard first thing tomorrow morning who have 3x complete m104 motors pulled and sitting on pallets. I want a coil pack / 3.2L 104.992 engine as a spare. I may either strip and clean it - fit new HG etc and fit into the coupe eventually. Or fit into my 300E-24 to up the CC and rid it of dist cap and KE injection. Since that car has no cats from factory I could run it without a cat. Or just as a spare parts donor. Might be one of the last times I'll be able to pick up a spare m104 motor.....

I'm going to look under Oil Cap for general idea of cleanliness and check the engine numbers of course to ensure it's a 3.2 motor. Any other top tips on what to look for to pick the 'best one'? I already got the 2007 ETA from one of the 3x motors last weekend. Hoping to pick one still 100% complete....
 
Any possibility of doing any compression tests on the engines?

I could yes - the conditions aren't ideal though. A room full of engines - to even get to the m104's last Saturday I had to climb over other engines!

Then lugging a battery in etc.... The yard guy said one particular engine would be the top pick. It was taken from a Red 320CE coupe they had in a few months back. He said it came in running and was 100% plus low mileage.

I have that car's VIN so I will verify the engine number on it as correct and choose it I think. When I get it home I will compression test it too. If there are any issues they would let me swap it out again I'm sure.

The engines they had were very clean and complete with Starter motors etc. Very good price too - they don't sell very many m104's at all anymore so as he said himself - demand is almost zero.
 
Picked up the CE 104.992 low miler spare engine today. It was a running car when it went to the yard and they said it was a very good one - I know them over 12 years so I trust them! (The car was scrapped due to rust and the Eco Junk issues they all have here)

The complete engine with ancillaries as pictured was only £120 - too hard to pass up! Can't see a date on the ETA so presumed Eco Junk. The PO appears to have made a go at a DIY engine wiring harness too :-(

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The m104 engine is quite a big lump seeing it like this. One guy said it looked like a Tank Engine! :duff:
 
Hi Gerry,


Yes non ASR- the ETA Part number matches the one in my 3.6 AMG motor, the 2007 ETA I got last weekend and the same as my original CE ETA. So it’s nice to now have not one but 2x on the shelf spare. I do wonder if I can track down the MB Pigtail PN if available for these spare ETA’s.


I agree on the M104 being a fantastic motor. Having owned a m102 w124 it was pretty crap to drive & not great on fuel either! I bought my 300E-24 when I was 18 and loved the power and silky smoothness of it in comparison. Besides the upper cover & HG Oil leaks they are a pretty bulletproof motor when cared for. Never had an issue with one and the guy today said the same thing – no one buys them because they never give any bother in the first place! Hence why this one was so cheap. I sure would like to also pick up another 3.6 AMG motor some time - they are pretty mean engines!
 
Progress! The 320CE’s harness arrived and after around 35 hours work (Since flatbedding it home and pushing into my garage) + many parts replaced it fired up first turn of the key. There was some lifter noise at first but that’s to be expected after a 5+ year lay up. The car is running superb – full 3 bar+ Oil pressure at hot idle, perfect smooth running and the gearbox is cycling through reverse etc very quickly / nicely. Very pleased!


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It was in dire condition only 3 weeks ago lying in the shed dead in the spot it had been pushed into 5+ years prior- with rodent chewed ignition wires, cobwebs / leaves and a half removed / butchered wiring harness hanging out. Many parts were seized rock solid but the engine was clean as a whistle inside so I knew it was salvagable and took it on in ernest. So far I’ve done just enough to get it running and verify the motor / gearbox is good– now the resto work can begin :) :spend::doh:

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The next most pressing job is replacing both engine mounts. Both are flat as a pancake and the engine is basically sitting on the crossmember and front ARB!

Lemforder is my usual choice but with their reported more recent Chinese manufacturing habits I’m hoping the boxes won’t turn up with chineseum inside. The should be Boge mounts still I think - I guess if they are now Chinese made then they will be at the stealer’s too..... this is a pic on eBay of Lemforder mounts marked as made in China. Sad to see - Lemforder used to be a very much trusted brand

1E9C1847-8C16-48B5-BBF1-6C2901A181DD.jpg

Has anyone bought Lemforder or MB engine mounts lately? Where were they made and are they Boge inside? I need PN 124 240 19 17 (Lemforder Ref: 38712 01)
 
With the engine mounts you don't want to gamble... not exactly a quick job to do. I went OEM benz, and the price wasn't that bad.
 
With the engine mounts you don't want to gamble... not exactly a quick job to do. I went OEM benz, and the price wasn't that bad.

I agree wholeheartedly! However in this instance my dealer is very expensive for the mounts. £218 for a pair. I can get Lemforders delivered to my door from Germany for £104. I think I will go for the Lemforder items and hope that Boge items are in the box.
 
Lemforder is my usual choice but with their reported more recent Chinese manufacturing habits I’m hoping the boxes won’t turn up with chineseum inside. The should be Boge mounts still I think - I guess if they are now Chinese made then they will be at the stealer’s too..... this is a pic on eBay of Lemforder mounts marked as made in China. Sad to see - Lemforder used to be a very much trusted brand

Has anyone bought Lemforder or MB engine mounts lately? Where were they made and are they Boge inside? I need PN 124 240 19 17 (Lemforder Ref: 38712 01)
That is depressing. I hadn't seen Lemforder selling Chinese motor mounts until your photo above.

The last M119 mounts I saw from Lemforder were still reboxed Boge. However, this will vary with each different engine mount p/n and the 6-cyl mounts could be different. And, the latest M119 mounts could be different, last I received were from a year or two ago.

:runexe:
 
Tonight I took apart my ‘broken’ spare rear C124 window regulator. It was jammed and not working like both currently in my CE. The pics show the disassembly process. In short the motor is working just fine once the cable was removed. The cables were frayed and gummed up with old grease to a point where they were jamming the motor from working. So just buy new cables right? Wrong! MB only sell complete window regulator motors with cables as far as I can tell in EPC.

It would be a crying shame to junk 3X C124 rear window regulators just because of these cables. I must see if I can get some made anywhere or fabricoble my own. That would allow me to strip, clean, lube and rebuild 2x regulators first then swap them into my C124 and also rebuild the ones in it as spares.

This company looks promising so I’m going to ask them to use my dimensions to make custom C124 cable repair sets.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-...air-Kit-Cable-Pull-Rear-L-R-NEW-/263247124976
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Shouldn't be too hard to find someone in the UK that can replicate those wires. If you can't find any domestic company, let me know and I'll see what I can get made in Sweden.
 
Shouldn't be too hard to find someone in the UK that can replicate those wires. If you can't find any domestic company, let me know and I'll see what I can get made in Sweden.

Thomas, thank you for the kind offer. It appears the German company are happy to make the CE rear motor cables for me based on my dimensions. Indeed; I think they will market them after this point so others can also buy them! I do want to verify for sure that both rear motors take the identical length cable pairs. So tonight I must dismantle the other side and confirm the cables are the same. Then I’m placing an order for 8 cables. That will allow me to strip and re-furbish 4no CE rear motors. (The spare pair and the originals in the car) Stay tuned for more info on that rebuild in a couple weeks after the new cables (hopefully!) get here.

I also ordered a new Hirschman power antenna for the CE and new Genuine MB grommet(s). I think the Chinese antenna that I found installed was the reason why water got in and rusted that side trunk tub :bat:
 
I have since discovered that there was something amis with that first CE regulator I took apart. The wires were installed backwards – hence why the motor frayed the cables and locked up. I have new cables coming from germany to make that regulator good. This is how it should look-

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Today was one of my last parts trips of the year – so I made it count! Got a full ‘trunk’ full of stuff. A full set of good used (Tested first this time) CE regulators front and rear, a pair of CE mirrors and quite a few NOS Genuine MB parts for R129, W140 and W124 models. All brand new & sealed – including a W211 Avantgarde Instrument cluster which ill sell on. Before starting to unload :) -

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As initial work on the CE continues I noticed that both front headlamp wipers were stuck solid! And people appear to think these motors are appreciating faster than a 500E. Can’t get a pair in UK for under £90 – used / untested motors. So making reference to this excellent thread I thought I had nothing to lose but strip one and see if I could repair it.

The issue was exactly what was described in the thread above. The plastic gear inside had inexplicably grown in size and jammed so tight it had to be pressed out. Now milled down it is ready to re-assemble. (The motor was tested and still perfectly functional after the jammed bits were removed) So finishing up the rebuilding of both front headlamp wiper motors then onto the main wiper. It is making horrible noises and very slow / jamming so needs a full strip / rebuild.

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After that is Sunroof refurbishment – all new pads on order from MB. The CE will be the DIY test mule :)
 
The engine mount parcel arrived from Germany today. Lemforder made in China. Pics attached of the items – not Boge. Feel like returning them – but then what for!?

Lemforder are China made now and the dealer likely is too since Lemforder may well be supplying MB too like they do for the suspension parts. In reality I think I’m just going to fit them anyway rather than send them back to Germany and start again :doh:

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