Lubegard ATF Additive Shudder Fix? Any good?

[JC220]

WHATS BETTER THAN ANOTHER OIL THREAD THAN ANOTHER SNAKE OIL THREAD

Hi All,

Seeking opinions and experiences on this product:

Instant Shudder Fixx™

Instant Shudder Fixx™ by Lubegard®: One-time-use additive instantly eliminates torque converter shudder, chatter & harsh shifting in automatic transmissions. Fast results, safe for all ATF types, no disassembly needed.

www.lubegard.com

Lubegards Dr Tranny Automatic Transmission Instant Shudder Fixx

A concentrated friction modifier formulated specifically for INSTANTLY eliminating torque converter lock-up shudder

Formally Dr Tranny!

Provides 4x's less wear than regular ATF

The original shudder fix

For use in ANY automatic transmission fluid. Not for use in Ford Type F or CVT applications

Packaged in a uniquely engineered two ounce application tube Dr. Tranny® Instant Shudder Fixx™ is compatible with conventional or synthetic automatic transmission fluids.

This formulation of friction modifiers made of synthetics and synthetic esters is concentrated five times!

Reviews appear very positive online. Full version of my proposed use for this to follow below:​

 

[JC220]

BW Post in W220 section FWIW:


My 144k odd mile 2003 S600 V12TT always had a strange issue in the year or so I've owned it and have covered about 1k miles only.

When driving along and coming up to a steeper grade / hill there is a soft judder or "cattle Griding" action felt in the driveline. Not a misfire more like its transmission related. It only occurs at low to moderate throttle and when climbing a grade.

At WOT the trans does not slip and it goes like a rocket

This car was previously owned by an enthusiast here who took great care of it and the PO for the year prior to me buying it did also get it extensively serviced.

I have new engine and trans mounts in it.

I have not serviced the transmission yet myself. I wonder would it be wise to:

1. Drop Pan and inspect contents of filter too
2. Drop Valve body and ultrasonic clean the internals to ensure no sludge is built up.
3. Fit new conductor plate and pilot bushing whilst in there
4. Add pan magnet if none in there
5. New Fuchs ATF to correct level

Anything else I might consider? Updated VB parts etc?

I have Star - is there any live date might be worth checking first?

I have rebuilt 722.6s myself before and have 5x spare sitting there for parts If I had to in Winter I could pull and refresh the box and get a rebuilt TC but would like to explore the basic servicing in car first.

My S600 has a mild tune by PO so the trans maybe has had a hard life in his brief ownership. I generally look after it very well with only occasional "tests"

I ALSO NEED TO DRIVE IT AND DOUBLE CHECK FLUID LEVEL TOMORROW

 

[JC220]

Also interested if anyone uses this stuff from Lubegard?

PLATINUM® Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant​

​

DESCRIPTION​

2 jobs → 1 solution - Use as a Conversion Additive to enhance base ATFs into OEM ATF equivalents. Simply add to the appropriate base ATF* (except CVT, DCT, and Ford Type F [1986 and earlier models]) to create a premium OEM ATF equivalent. This one product eliminates ATF confusion, requires minimal shelf space, and costs significantly less than OEM ATFs. Or, you can supplement your current ATF with Platinum to extend the life of the ATF and the transmission. LUBEGARD® High-Performance Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant is a concentrated additive package infused with superior seal conditioners and friction modifiers. This unique product restores additive content to used ATF and enhances new ATF resulting in improved performance and smoother, more consistent shifting. It can safely be added to any automatic transmission fluid (ATF) including full High-Performance, semi High-Performance, conventional, and low viscosity fluids except CVT, DCT, or Ford Type F [1986 and earlier models]. LUBEGARD® High-Performance Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant is engineered to raise the thermal and oxidative stability level of automatic transmission fluids, so when it operates at elevated temperatures, it does not thin out and pyrolize, burn, or react with oxygen and form deposits. It is formulated with proprietary Liquid Wax Esters (LXE®) that are unique because of their natural lubricity, high viscosity index, and high flash and fire points. They can withstand repeated heating to temperatures as high as 570°F. LXE® gives automatic transmission fluid the extra lubricity needed for transmission’s unique frictional requirements. They improve heat conductivity, suppress foaming and, consequently, reduce transmission operating temperatures.​

*Use the LUBEGARD® OEM & ATF Conversion chart for proper base ATF recommendations.​

​

@Christian_K ?​

 

[gsxr]

I may have posted this elsewhere before, but...

... any transmission fluid magic potion is generally a "last resort" attempt to fix something without pulling the trans out of the car to repair it properly. If you are at the point where you have nothing else to lose besides $10-$20 for the Mechanic in a Bottle, sure, give it a whirl!

 

[daantjie]

A lot of folks swear by Trans-X. I agree, if it buys you another 10K or so miles before the inevitable rebuild/swap then why not.

 

[gerryvz]

Why did I know that the @gsxr would "bite" on this thread ?!?

 

[JC220]

Yes not much of anything to lose so I'll give the shudder stop additive a go first. Tonight I will take it for a drive and warm it up. Then check trans fluid level. After that, add the additive and set fluid level correctly.

And drive it some to see if the soft surging goes away. In any case I have ABC work planned, Diff oil service and check flex discs. At same time I will service the transmission and use the lubegard platinum additive as their recommended longer term treatment. Whilst I can rebuild the trans myself when the time comes I'd rather put that off until next year since I have both w220s to prep for a wedding moved to November now. S430 requires extensive welding etc so lots to be getting on with.

I will report back on these products soon

 

[gsxr]

Joe, is there any chance what you are feeling is the torque converter lockup function? If so, it's possible to permanently disable this via valve body modification. I thought this only affected early 722.6 but perhaps later ones also had the issue. @Klink?

 

[JC220]

Added this stuff this evening:


Took the S600 for its first drive in 9 weeks

To my amazement the problem it had before is 100% gone with this additive. Not a whiff of surging even when I took it laps of the hills it used to do it on.

Couldn't find my 722.6 dipstick tool so will keep looking for that and confirm fluid level too.

 

[Kyiv]

Wooo-hooo!

 

[gsxr]

I wonder if the magic goop is friction modifier.

 

[JC220]

I wonder if the magic goop is friction modifier.

Yes I believe so Dave, a little more info here

 

[JC220]

I'm just surprised @gerryvz @cascade @xfadmin @The Emperor hasn't spotted the crusty Intercooler cap (Same part# as pedestrian models)

 

[JC220]

I found it cheaper per L to buy 20L of Fuchs ATF from Germany delivered



£6 / L Delivered from Germany VS £12 odd per L on ebay UK.

That will take care of 3x cars. 10L of synthetic Diff oil coming too to service a few of em. #fleetlife

 

[jhodg5ck]

for .6's with TC shudder that Lube Guard stuff is pretty spectacular. Most noteably on cars where the lock up clutch was damaged by glycol contamination that stuff Fixed it. Customers were Suuuuper happy vs having to rebuilt their TC and all that entails. Did these cars some 8+ years ago and they're still working Just fine.

Jono

 

[gsxr]

IIRC, @Klink had some interesting input on the 722.6 lockup function. From vague memory, the lockup did practically nothing to help fuel economy, but caused other issues. Blocking the appropriate piston/plunger in the VB permanently disabled the lockup, and was a reversible modification. But adding Lube Guard would be lots easier.

 

[JC220]

Thanks for the info Jono! Interesting that it also appears to work long term for some people that is good news indeed.

This is the bottle of what Lube gard say is their permanent solution for shudder issues. They also have a red protective formula but this is the all singing all dancing one:




In a couple weeks I'll do the full trans service in the S600, use this additive and it should be good.

I will also be getting another bottle of this for my daily driver E220CDi with 226k miles. That car has a hard life, driven like a low flying aircraft every day and towing trailers etc. All original turbo and trans etc never had issues.

It will get its second DIY trans service & flush now. I did its first one ever when I bought the car at about 160k miles. Unsurprisingly the OE fluid was black. I'm a little afraid that changing the ATF again on a high miler could lead to trouble but this friction modifier should reduce risk of issues and let it run on new fluid.

Fuchs Titan 3353 is a great ATF for the 722.6 - noticable improvement right away in all my cars.

 

[Kyiv]

@jhodg5ck, what other additives have you had a definitively positive experience at work? For ATF or engine oil

@JC220, What is wrong with the E220 that you want to use lubegard's "permanent" solution in its transmission.

Lastly, can anyone, however briefly, explain WTF does Lubegard has in it that a regular ATF doesn't? Is just a viscosity thickener? ⁉

 

[JC220]

@JC220, What is wrong with the E220 that you want to use lubegard's "permanent" solution in its transmission.

Lastly, can anyone, however briefly, explain WTF does Lubegard has in it that a regular ATF doesn't? Is just a viscosity thickener? ⁉

There is a risk that when you service a high mileage transmission it can start to slip afterwards. Perhaps because the old ATF had fine clutch material in it and was keeping it going.

So I want to use it for that reason and at £14 delivered it doesn't break the bank either. It is also said to reduce wear and extend the life of the transmission so why not.

Regarding the Instant Shudder Fix product itself - I noted it came out just like a red ATF. Not a thick gooey slime or anything.

I believe it is a friction modifier whereby somehow it makes old, worn or glazed frictions to "bite" again. I could be wrong but hey- the stuff WERKS

 

[jhodg5ck]

@jhodg5ck, what other additives have you had a definitively positive experience at work? For ATF or engine oil

@JC220, What is wrong with the E220 that you want to use lubegard's "permanent" solution in its transmission.

Lastly, can anyone, however briefly, explain WTF does Lubegard has in it that a regular ATF doesn't? Is just a viscosity thickener? ⁉

I have not Tried it yet but I few folks whom I respect have said good things about liquiMoly ceratec.

I've also had luck with Lucas engine life and transmission slip fix.... In instances where both were barely hanging on I've gotten 10000's of miles more. Cheesy, but not everyone wants to drop 5-20G to fix stuff

Jono

 

[gsxr]

Lastly, can anyone, however briefly, explain WTF does Lubegard has in it that a regular ATF doesn't? Is just a viscosity thickener?

I don't think it makes the fluid thicker. I believe it's a friction modifier, making the fluid more slippery.

Note this cures an issue specific to the 722.6, with the clutches in the lockup torque converter causing "shudder" in certain driving conditions (not during shift points) . On my .6 boxes, I went with the @Klink method of disabling the lockup function. Same result, but without additives.

As Jono mentioned, for a worn-out trans that is slipping on upshifts, there are some additives which can help limp it along, but that's all you'll get on those - extended life (but without improved quality of life) - not a cure.

 

[Kyiv]

I have not Tried it yet but I few folks whom I respect have said good things about liquiMoly ceratec.

@JC220, Joe, you have to write a mini-essay on your experience with Ceratek. Many will read it with interest

 

[Kyiv]

@JC220, I sincerely mean it. Many would be interested in YOUR experience and observations with Ceratec

 

[LWB250]

@JC220, I sincerely mean it. Many would be interested in YOUR experience and observations with Ceratec

How can one tell that this stuff is having any effect, other than maybe by fuel consumption or butt dyno? I'm just curious. I'm not suggesting it's snake oil, but I'm genuinely interested in how one would determine there's value in using it.

Dan

 

[JC220]

@JC220, I sincerely mean it. Many would be interested in YOUR experience and observations with Ceratec

Yes I did put 1.75 bottles or so of Ceratec into my m275 per dosing instructions.

I "think" the engine is a little smoother and quieter post treatment and driving a couple hundred miles but it was already smooth and quiet so very hard to quantify that impact.

The m275 is a very thirsty engine anyway but I do see a small lift in MPG if I drive it normally. (WOT is gauge drop time!) I believe MPG went up by 3 or 4 to a whopping 25 or so on long trips. I dont drive the S600 enough to truly know its MPG habits.

How can one tell that this stuff is having any effect, other than maybe by fuel consumption or butt dyno? I'm just curious. I'm not suggesting it's snake oil, but I'm genuinely interested in how one would determine there's value in using it.

Dan

Exactly this!!

Which Is why I didnt really comment on it before. Whilst I hope it is doing something useful its very hard for me to tell for sure. The m275 is my most powerful and complex engine so it kind of made sense for me to try it in there first.

However the price of the product is quite high for an additive and without trying it on a vehicle I drive alot more it is again very hard for me to tell you guys definitively that it had palatable benefits.

It "should" last in the m275 beyond the next oil change in a year or so (still only 3k max miles on the new top synthetic oil by then) and reduce wear and friction if you believe the packaging of Ceratec.

Will I use it again? I'd say NO. It's too expensive to add that into my regular servicing of my cars. I already haemorrhage £££ on oil, filters and parts each month maintaining my cars so that was kind of a one off treat / trial on my S600.

 

[jhodg5ck]

Fellow I spoke with who races on it commented his temps were consistently lower and his filters looked "better" after X number of hours... This was on an E36 m3 that he ran in scca/nasa/time attack.

 

[gsxr]

I had to look up Cera Tec... never heard of it before. It's designed for engine oil and manual transmissions, not automatics trannies. Looks like it may help reduce wear and internal friction:

Cera Tec

Højteknologisk slidbeskyttelse i keramik Reducerer friktion og slid på grund af keramikforbindelser til høje kemiske og termiske belastninger. Forhindrer direkte kontakt mellem metal og metal, hvilket øger aggregaternes levetid. Reducerer takket være letløbseffekten brændstofforbruget af benzin...

products.liqui-moly.com

Dual protection with Cera Tec

LIQUI MOLY Cera Tec: The optimum wear protection additive for physical and chemical protection

www.liqui-moly.com

 

[LWB250]

Fellow I spoke with who races on it commented his temps were consistently lower and his filters looked "better" after X number of hours... This was on an E36 m3 that he ran in scca/nasa/time attack.

First of all, do understand that I'm not questioning anyone here, just trying to get to something that definitely identifies the benefits, if any, of using an additive like this.

Note that Jono's information is from someone who races, so they're clearly putting their car/engine under much higher stresses and conditions that we as normal drivers would be doing. Their observation of filters is purely subjective. What makes a filter look "better"? How would something like this translate into a normal consumer's car? Or would it?

I guess I just want to know how $30 of something dumped into my engine is going to benefit me and the engine? Or will I be able to tell?

-D

 

[gsxr]

Dan... my $0.02 is that for normal street use, these types of additives likely have no discernible effect, assuming the oil+filter are changed at appropriate intervals for the usage and oil type.

For either racing OR severe service, additives like this could make a difference. For the M3 racecar with lower temps, I'd like to know how much lower, oil or coolant or both, and what type of oil was in use. Filters "looking better" is kinda useless IMO unless previously the elements were full of metal shavings.

 

[jhodg5ck]

His comment was along the lines of not as gross/black/cooked..which I suspect is from things not getting as Hot..his gauge isn't the most graded thing in the planet, but cool enough where he noted a difference. TWYW... I haven't played with it yes but I have two containers sitting here from my LM guy

 

[LWB250]

Dan... my $0.02 is that for normal street use, these types of additives likely have no discernible effect, assuming the oil+filter are changed at appropriate intervals for the usage and oil type.

Other than making you $30 poorer - that would be a discernible effect.



Dan

 

[JC220]

Got my first case of ATF for a fleet service rolling out this winter.

First case as in I'll require 3x I believe but slightly different brews of Fuchs too.



And 10L of Synthetic Diff Oil to begin which I believe is AOK for the 124s and 140s at least



10L of ABC fluid too for one rodeo on my S600.

And another 10 gallon of antifreeze to start - will require 20 or 30 gallon of that too. Some cars were already changed but I want all cars with fresh antifreeze.

Fortunately I will not require any engine oil changes this winter since all cars have new Synthetic Oil change within the past 500miles.

And all of them have new spark plugs within the last 500 miles. (I'd need at or over 100x spark plugs for a full service)

This excludes all other filters which are also new in my cars. Air, oil, pollen & fuel. Never ending task but secretly I enjoy it

 

[Kyiv]

Somehow, I know you're not part of UK's Green party electorate

 

[JC220]

Somehow, I know you're not part of UK's Green party electorate

Absolutely not! I am a great advocate of V8 & V12s only

 

[gsxr]

And 10L of Synthetic Diff Oil to begin which I believe is AOK for the 124s and 140s at least

FYI. If any of your differentials have the factory sealant for the rear cover (blue Hylomar), after 1-2 years the synthetic gear oil may sneak past the Hylomar. Took me a while to figure this out... the cure is using the OE "black" super sealant, or Permatex Right Stuff, or equivalent. Otherwise, yup, that stuff is fine for non-LSD/ASD/4MATIC diffs in the 124/129/140.