Missing - Transmission Overload Protection Switch an issue?

[mb280sel1985]

What is the correct throttle body actuator (ETA) part no?

Is it always a Bosch part?

What is the old part no - I recon they've discontinued the factory edition.. obviously it got problems with wiring insulation.

And if so, is the new part OK in regards to wiring harness and potentiometer overheat?

 

[gsxr]

The ETA part number varies for early and late, the change was in mid-1993 model year (they have a different connector). What are the last 6 digits of your VIN number? I believe it is a Bosch part, btw... no aftermarket copies available... new ETA should last another 20 years if not longer.

 

[mb280sel1985]

Its 1B92 09xx

So there is a replacement part no with an upgraded ETA then. Good to know they've fixed the weak spots.

 

[gsxr]

Aaaaargh, the EPC specs by engine number. Do you know your engine number? If not, we'd need the full last 6 digits to get it from the datacard, you can send via PM if you don't want it publick... or post a photo of the ETA connector near the CAN box, that is another method to determine if you've got the early or late style.

 

[gsxr]

Got your PM - thanks! Your engine number is 0073xx, so based on the EPC data, your ETA should be the early style, part # 000-141-79-25. This unit has a large, round, right-angle connector as seen in this photo - yours should look the same (easy to check, pop the hood and look near the CAN box).

The late-style ETA has a smaller, cylindrical, in-line connector as shown in this photo. Yours should not look like this, assuming the EPC is correct.

FYI, the engine number break point was different between USA and Euro models - it's always good to visually double-check the connector type before ordering.

 

[mb280sel1985]

Ok, thanks a lot for your lookup. I really appreciate it!

I'll check it visually. I got the same number from a Bosch dealer over here. He wants 5000 NOK ($1050) including VAT (25%) and by law gives 5 year warranty. Is that a descent price for it? He says it is a brand new and upgraded version, which shouldn't have the heat/insulation issues. He's then referring to 001 141 79 25. Can you confirm this?

The ASR lamp getting lit and the ecu going into LM mode is intensily related to heat by the way. I've tested a lot to see if there is any difference when parking in a warm garage (60F) and a cold garage (<30F) over night, and there is never a problem when driving the same 30 min distance, after it has been let sitting in the cold one. But on the opposite side, it almost always get the ASR light after overnighting in the warm garage. So it makes sense that it has been acting up all summer/fall, since we had temperatures in the 40's-60's until recently.

 

[gsxr]

If it's a real 000-141-79-25 ETA, that's an excellent price for a new one. The cheapest we can get these in the USA (from parts.com) is $1050 USD plus shipping, after the recent (Jan-1, 2012) price increases from MBNA.

Mercedes superceded the original part number twice, 000-141-79-25 is the latest version (third iteration). I can't say for certain that it will be immune to heat issues like the originals, but it's a good possibility. The updated engine wiring harnesses use improved materials that don't deteriorate but I'm not positive the same was done to the ETA's. You'd sure think so though!

 

[mb280sel1985]

FYI, the engine number break point was different between USA and Euro models - it's always good to visually double-check the connector type before ordering.

Is this it?

1405401581

 

[gsxr]

Yup, that's the connector... and the photo confirms you have the early style ETA. Hope the new ETA solves your problems!

 

[mb280sel1985]

Yeah I really hope so too, thanks!

Does this mean I'd also have the early LH module with slightly more power to it?

And if it has the early LH module, wouldn't this mean I don't have a catalytic converter, or have I missed something?

 

[gsxr]

No, they are not synonymous. The LH is completely separate. You could remove the CAN box cover (four bolts) and read the part number to verify though.

 

[mb280sel1985]

The LH module is of type Bosch LH 0015 [10] with part # 015 545 36 32.

Is the module an OK version? Early/late?

 

[gsxr]

The LH module is of type Bosch LH 0015 [10] with part # 015 545 36 32. Is the module an OK version? Early/late?

That's the 1993 (late) version... no WOT enrichment. If you pop in a '92 module, the car will gain about 8-10hp at the wheels, 10-12hp at the crank (full throttle only).

 

[mb280sel1985]

Just out of curiosity - I've heard that sometimes it may just be the wiring harness going bad - Is it possible to just buy the cable 1405401581?
Or does that come with a big wiring job..

I'll buy the throttle body either how - since I don't like the idea of making it a quick fix just to save time and money. But it would be nice to try to fix the old throttle body, if it is broken at the "right" places.. Then I'll have a spare!

 

[mb280sel1985]

The cheapest we can get these in the USA (from parts.com) is $1050 USD plus shipping, after the recent (Jan-1, 2012) price increases from MBNA.

Looks like German Star still sells it for $835 - http://www.germanstar.net/124f.htm
0001417925

 

[gerryvz]

GermanStar IMHO is not a reputable company, and I will NOT do business with them.

 

[mb280sel1985]

I've bought a MAF and a knock sensor from GermanStar earlier. The MAF has been installed in my 500E.

It was a refurbished MAF, and I've been playing with the thought of maybe it being the cause of any of my symptoms. But I'm not too sure how I can verify/check off it being a culprit.

Is it the quality of their parts, or is it the service you are unhappy with Gerry?

 

[gerryvz]

Sorry, when I said that, I was thinking of another firm called the Benz Bin, not Germanstar.net I don't have any direct experience with Germanstar so can't make a judgement. Sorry for the misstatement.

 

[mb280sel1985]

NP ;-)

What should I do with a new throttle body cable 1405401581, if I was getting one for christmas?

Is it a plug'n play cable, or do I need some heavy soldering skills?

 

[gsxr]

What should I do with a new throttle body cable 1405401581, if I was getting one for christmas?

Not sure what that cable is, the part number doesn't appear in the EPC... got a photo?

 

[mb280sel1985]

It's the number on top of the plug sitting on the cable going to the throttle body.

Here it is:

EDIT:

I guess the cable is a separate part..?

I'd have to solder the plug to the cable wiring, and also the throttle body side of the cable. It's the wiring that is the weak spot here right?

Sorry for my ignorance - I'm an eager learner

 

[gsxr]

Ah, that would just get you the connector itself... if you wanted to attempt to re-wire the ETA. Not something I would attempt, but if you're handy with electrical stuff, you could give it a try. Just be prepared to shell out for a new ETA if the repair attempt fails.

 

[mb280sel1985]

Seems I can only get remanufactured ETA's now, from that place I mentioned. But I want to get a brand new ETA.

Have anyone tried to order parts from these guys before? - http://buymbparts.biz/

I know www.parts.com have some very good prices, but they seem kind of hard to get a hold of... am I wrong?

 

[gsxr]

Have anyone tried to order parts from these guys before? - http://buymbparts.biz/

I know www.parts.com have some very good prices, but they seem kind of hard to get a hold of... am I wrong?

BuyMBParts.biz is a reputable vendor... I've purchased from them many times over the years, been doing business with Rusty for 10+ years. Nice guy. Pretty sure he will ship overseas.

Parts.com is just a website, they send the order to a dealer in Illinois. I don't believe they will ship international at all though, you'd need a USA mailing address.

 

[gerryvz]

Parts.com will NOT ship overseas nor will they ship to Canada or Mexican addresses. USA only.

 

[mb280sel1985]

- UPDATED -

Ok, today I solved a lot of things, and this must be the greatest day with my 500E so far!
Below I'm suggesting the symptoms and the remedy, but since both parts were replaced together it's difficult to say for sure.

I replaced 2 parts:

A: Fuel pressure regulator
B: Neutral safety switch


- Fuel Pressure Regulator -

1. hard engine starting - especially after sitting for 3-4 days - (a lot better)
3. unsteady idle (better)
4. erratic idle (better)
8. noisy fuel pumps (fixed)
10. bad fuel milage - about 1.25-1.35 l/10 km (17 MPG - 19 MPG US) - very gentle driving on highway - should be 23-25 MPG** (slightly better)
13. hesitation/lock at WOT 4000 rpms right after kick down (fixed)
14. real long shifting at WOT 5500 rpms (better)

- Neutral Safety Switch -

11. very low idle (450 rpms) (fixed)
12. frequent ASR issues (not the issue - ETA must be replaced)

- Not fixed -

2. frequent lack of cold start function, which should run engine at 1100 rpms for 20 second (unconfirmed)
5. push and pull while driving normal / felt like some kind of incorrect compensation (unconfirmed)
6. engine misfire (not fixed)
7. loss of power (unconfirmed)
9. bad spark plug at cylinder 8 - totally black while the others were clean (unconfirmed)



I suspected the fuel pressure regulator after reading this: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-fuel-pressure-regulator.html - which pretty much resembled most of my symptoms.
And thanks to this forum for the many excellent writeups and info about the NSS on this forum!

I believe a bad fuel pressure regulator can cause a LOT of weird drivability issues, and I really recommend replacing it. Price is $65 or so, DIY 30 minute job. Check Gerry's writeups and recommendations! Thanks Gerry for those.

Please correct me, if you are convinced any of the above is ludacris

 

[gerryvz]

I have a hard time believing that a 500E, even driven gently, would get much more than 20 MPG on the highway (US gallons - 3.8 Liters). I think 21 MPG would be about it.15-17 MPG in mixed around town driving is normal for a 500E, as well.

 

[szvook]

The way I drive, I would be lucky if I get 12 MPG on the freeway...

 

[gsxr]

With stock wheels/tires on my 94 E500, I did see 22mpg over a long freeway trip... it's possible, but not easy. Right after purchase in 2004 (before the ethanol craze) I got my peak recorded mileage at 23.1 mpg on a 500-mile freeway trip. Three years later I backed that up with a 22.8, also on a 400+ mile trip. I've had numerous other tanks in the 20-22mpg range. All these numbers were on stock wheels/tires.

The 10% ethanol blended fuels we get in the USA reduce economy noticeably, so achieving the 20+ range is getting harder these days. 1992 motors will get slightly lower fuel economy, btw... probably 1-2mpg less (approx), and fat wheels/tires also reduce MPG. Best I've gotten with the 18" iForged wheels was three tanks of 20.2, 20.5, and 21.4, again on 500+ mile freeway trips, and that was with 2.65 gears (taller than stock). The 500E is a '92 and topped out at 20.2, 20.7, and 21.8 with 2.65 gears and 17" wheels, on the same 500+ mile trip.

Around town with mixed city driving, I get right around 17mpg, ±1mpg, for both the E500 and 500E... with the '92 averaging a bit less than the '94.

 

[mb280sel1985]

Hm, I had 1.06 l/10 km a couple of times, when the whole thing worked as it should, but I have also read it is possible to get as low as 0.95 l/10 km.
It may be my convertion effort to MPG that is not correct..

Jupp, found another converter: 10.6 liters/100 km = 22.190055 miles/gallon(US)

 

[gerryvz]

I have kept track of every tank of gas I have put in my car since I got it in August, 2003. Over that time, in approximately 50,000 miles of driving, it has averaged 16 MPG in very mixed driving. The last tank I put in the car was 18 MPG, FYI. If I am light on the throttle I can get 19 MPG. I have maybe seen 1-2 tanks at 20 MPG during that time, all highway mileage. Pretty much all of my mileage as been with the Rial 18" or AMG Mono II 18" staggered wheels.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[mb280sel1985]

I have kept track of every tank of gas I have put in my car since I got it in August, 2003. Over that time, in approximately 50,000 miles of driving, it has averaged 16 MPG in very mixed driving. The last tank I put in the car was 18 MPG, FYI. If I am light on the throttle I can get 19 MPG. I have maybe seen 1-2 tanks at 20 MPG during that time, all highway mileage. Pretty much all of my mileage as been with the Rial 18" or AMG Mono II 18" staggered wheels.

Cheers,
Gerry

Maybe some of these factors come into play as well:

-We have 20-30 °F in the winter (5-6 months) - and never more than 70 °F in the summer.
-The fuel over here is almost never mixed with 5% ethanol
-The lowest octane we can find is 95. All pumps have 95, 98 and in many cases 99 (all unleaded of course)
-I have been very careful hitting the gas too much, due to the issues I've had with the engine run quality
-I drive stock wheels with Nokian Hakkapelita Winter tyres (haven't tried the 18"/19" AMG)

I bet those 18" wheels may lower the fuel economy...