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New rotors recommendations

550Maranello

E500E Guru
Member
Hello Chaps,

I need to replace my car's rotors - 1993 - and found these 300 mm at Top Brakes. I may replace the rear ones too since I am moving to Miami and want to take advantage that my friend William is going to do it for the last time.

I don't want to spend a fortune, just decent drilled and slotted rotors. I already have an extra set of Porterfield R4S pads.

Please advise.

http://www.topbrakes.com/searchResults.php/14788

Regards,

Orazio
 
The ATE Power Discs are excellent. If they are not specifically listed for the 500Es early brakes (300mm front), search for SL R129 Brakes (excluded 600SL of course) up to year 1993, they are the exact same - and they ARE available from ATE.
ATE is simply the best brake manufacturer i know of. Germany high quality. Excellent rotors and Pads for acceptable cash. Very long lasting very good braking performance, their Rotors do never get unbalanced, even after excessive braking, lets say from V-Max to zero speed. Many Shops in Germany (mine included) ONLY install ATE Brakes, because they have had the best experience and best customer satisfaction with that brand.

I wish they will have the new ATE Ceramic Brake pads available soon for the earlier 500E brakes at front, for the later style (320mm 600SL R129 origin) they already have them available.

Ferrodo is not so good btw.
 
.

I wish they will have the new ATE Ceramic Brake pads available soon for the earlier 500E brakes at front, for the later style (320mm 600SL R129 origin) they already have them available.


Hello , all the E500E's share the same front brake pads A0054200220

Edit: Do you have the part number for the ceramic pads , they are not listed for the 320mm front brakes .

They seems to be available for the late 334 brembo calipers ( pn: 13.0470-4984.2)
 

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Hi Patrice,
ATE Website: http://www.ate.de/generator/www/com...amic/productinfo_ceramic_bremsbelaege_de.html
ATE-Ceramic Catalog: http://www.ate.de/generator/www/com...aloge/download/ate_ce1_ceramic_katalog_uv.pdf

Article-Nr for E500 (1990 -> VIN "B927760"): 13.0470-3805.2
Article-Nr for E500 (06/1993 -> 06/1995): 13.0470-4047.2
Article-Nr for E420/400E: 13.0470-3805.2

But is just saw that its only the rear brake pads.... damn it.... i could swear that i saw front brake pads also for the SL R129 Series.
The SL 280 and SL 320 R129 also had 300mm front-brakes, however i do not know their thickness or if its the same pads as the 500E has.
 
How about Akebono ceramics, which are available front & rear for the E500E?
 
How about Akebono ceramics, which are available front & rear for the E500E?
Hi Dave,
according to this website: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Akebono&model=ProACT+Ceramic+Pads
Stopping-power has only 2/5 Rating. The ATE Ceramics have a even better stopping-power the the Mercedes-Benz/ATE OE ones, or in other (their) words "...at least the OE(M) braking performance....".
The ATE Ceramics also have the advantage that wear on the rotors are considerably reduced, as the ceramic pads apply some sort of "braking-layer" over time on the rotors and then the pads do friction on that layer instead on the rotor itself.

Is there any info if the Akebono ceramics have at least the same stopping-power than the OEM Pads?
 
My mechanics here in Houston HIGHLY recommend the Akobonos to their customers, and are generally putting them on customers' cars unless stock pads are specifically requested. The next time I replace pads, I'm going to try them out.

Cheers,
Gerry
 
Great !
The SL 280 and SL 320 R129 also had 300mm front-brakes, however i do not know their thickness or if its the same pads as the 500E has.

yep it's the same , this pad was also mounted on some w124 with smaller 295x22mm also .


If the part number for standard 334 Brembo big pads is 13.0460-4984.2 and ceramic 13.0470-4984.2 ,
then the pn for E500E's should be 13.0470-4201.2 (instead of 13.0460-4201.2 standard)
but it doesn't exist yet :(

Thanks for your help Christian !
 
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Patrice, the Number for the Sl280 and SL320 R129 FRONTBRAKE-Pads (ATE Ceramic) from 08/1993 -> to 08/2001 is: "13.0470-4984.2"
Now, if that is really the same Brake that my 500E with the 300mm Brake has, i will buy them in the future... I Hope someone can verify the Brake thingy here.
 
294, 295, 300, and 320mm front brake calipers all share the same pad size/shape.

Each of the rear brake sizes (258, 278, 300) use different pads.

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Patrice, the Number for the Sl280 and SL320 R129 FRONTBRAKE-Pads (ATE Ceramic) from 08/1993 -> to 08/2001 is: "13.0470-4984.2"
Now, if that is really the same Brake that my 500E with the 300mm Brake has, i will buy them in the future... I Hope someone can verify the Brake thingy here.


Christian , the ceramic pad 13.04070-4984.2 will only fit R129 SL who have 334 brembo calipers .
They made an error on ATE website , this pad will not fit on the SL who have 300mm front brakes.






The R129 280 & 320 with 300mm front brakes can only use the standard pad 13.0460-4201.2 ( same as the E500E's ) as there is no ceramic front pad yet from ATE for smaller brakes .




It's easy to spot the difference between the two pads , as gsxr shown in his previous post .
Compare it with the technical drawing from ATE website and you'll see :)
 
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Thanks for that clarification Patrice and David,
i will now write to ATE a suggestion via Email, that they should make a ceramic brake-pad in identical shape as "13.0460-4201.2".
 
Questions from Tirerack:

Following Christian recommendations I tried to order 300mm ATE front rotors and brake pads from Tirerack but the fellow asked me a lot of questions.

Are the calipers powder coated, "pusher" or MB calipers? Looking at my car's calipers there is the number 33 stamped in large numbers and in smaller numbers 3126.

Excuse my ignorance but I really need help with this.

Thanks much.

Orazio
 
Following Christian recommendations I tried to order 300mm ATE front rotors and brake pads from Tirerack but the fellow asked me a lot of questions.
Are the calipers powder coated, "pusher" or MB calipers? Looking at my car's calipers there is the number 33 stamped in large numbers and in smaller numbers 3126. Excuse my ignorance but I really need help with this.
Orazio,

I'm not sure why Tire Rack is making this complicated... 300mm front rotors are 300mm front rotors, the caliper is irrelevant. But, it sounds like you have the Ate iron 300mm calipers (which look like this). This doesn't matter though. The original calipers are Brembos which are painted black and look like this, but again, they use the same 300mm rotors.

:matrix:
 
Thanks, Dave.

TR does not have ATE rear rotors. I am thinking that my car will look funny with slotted rotors in front and OEM rotors in rear.

I may be better off with all OEM rotors.

Orazio
 
You can buy slotted or drilled (or both!) rotors from multiple vendors, if they don't stock rotors in that form, they buy plain ones and then slot/drill them on demand. So, you can probably still get what you're looking for from a different vendor, but it will likely cost more. Or, just spring for the Silver Arrow upgrade and get new OE drilled rotors all around!

:spend: :spend:
 
Do not buy any rotors that have been drilled on demand, you'll be sorry down the road. Only rotors with "cast" holes are durable. The cost for cast holes rotors will be about 25% more then the drilled rotors, but if drilled rotors are preferred, the cast way is the only way. Some cars, in a few race circuits, use rotors with wholes and they only use cast hole rotors.
 
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Good point! I agree with Steve, and in general I'd go with slotted if I were buying new aftermarket rotors, for the reason he describes.

:seesaw:
 
Well, due to the difficulty of finding ATE rear rotors and not being familiar with what is on the market - it is a jungle out there - I have ordered rotors from MB. I really liked Christian's recommendation about ATE but having slotted rotors in front and plain rotors in rear would have been ridiculous. ATE rear pads are on back order so I will go with Porterfield R4S pads, I have been very satisfied with them.

Thanks for the great advise.

Orazio
 
My brake pads are getting low - came across this thread searching for Akebono. Used to have them on my jag. I was considering getting the euro premium ones for my '94 e500. Are the tire-rack fitments accurate? EUR561 for front, and then depending on VIN, EUR603 or EUR495 for rear.

Also - is replacing brake pads a job better suited for my mechanic instead of a DIY job? It doesn't seem THAT hard, but, with safety in mind, I wouldn't want to accidentally forget something then find myself with brake failure :o
 
Brake pads are a simple procedure. You would need the following tools:

- lug wrench
- Channel-lock pliers or long screwdriver (to compress pistons to remove brake pads)
- hammer
- drift punch (or other long punch to remove the brake pad retaining pins)
- jack/jackstand/ramps (to lift the wheel or side of the car)
- MB brake paste (4 packets or better yet, a tube)
- brake pads
- new brake pad sensors (4 required per axle)

Cheers,
Gerry
 
Stock E500/500E will be EUR561 front and EUR495 rear. Amazon often has the best price.

The EUR603 is for 300mm rears, and does not apply to USA-spec 500E/E500's, regardless of VIN. Tire Rack's catalog is wrong.

Pad replacement is one of the easier jobs you can do, around a 2 on a scale of 1-10. Gerry's list has all the stuff you'll need, except the beer.

:5150:
 
Drift punches are cheap, and really useful to have. Be sure to get a LONG one -- at least 6" long and skinny enough on the business end to fit into the small holes that the brake pad pins fit into. It's a pretty small hole. Craftsman has them if you need one.

Channel locks ... well most folks should have a pair, but if not a long flatblade screwdriver will do fine. If you do go the screwdriver route to push the pistons back into the calipers, BE SURE you don't put the tip of the blade on a soft/sensitive area around the edge of the piston (a seal) as it will leak brake fluid and will have to be rebuilt. The channel locks are a bit safer in that regard because you can get a better bite (or use a small piece of metal or wood against the edge of the piston to be doubly safe.

Pads and sensors can be had from AutohausAZ or your dealer (you'll get fleeced at a dealer). Brake paste you can get anywhere, but I recommend getting a tube of the MB stuff. Any dealer will have that in stock. It will last for many many brake jobs. It's dark green in color (usually).

Hopefully you have a hammer.

Beer? Yeah, I guess that's a good thing to have. It was 75 degrees here in Houston this past weekend, so beer did come in handy while I was out in the garage.
 
This is the "lifetime supply" canister of brake paste. It looks suspiciously like plain ol' anti-seize:

proxy.php


List price was up to $14.50 as of Jan-2011, don't know current pricing (all the Trademotion sites are hosed up right now) but it's likely $16-$20. The little single-use packets are supposedly one per axle but you may need twice that much. They're a buck or two per packet, p/n 001-989-94-51.


:wormhole:
 
These days (w/ ceramics esp) I've been using CRC disc brake quiet, Followed by an application of MB's brake paste. it's mighty thick to be normal anti seize, @ least compared to the Wurth stuff I use..

Jono
 
My MB mechanic here in Spring, TX (whom I've not visited in almost 2.5 years now) uses the CRC stuff. Swear by it.
 
Would you recommend doing rotors for a guy now capable of medium to very easy advanced stuff? Haven't had time to check my rotors yet, but I am armed with a mityvac, toolbox, jack stands, ramps, and a soldering iron. :boxing: Safety not guaranteed.
 
Yes! Rotor replacement is really just one more additional step from pad replacement. With calipers removed, the old disk can be exchanged for a new one. There may be 2 screws holding the disc to the hub (i haven't noticed if our 124s use this system but i believe so). Some manufacturers utilize a one piece rotor/hub in front. In this instance the wheel bearings must be removed and replaced and the bearings properly preloaded. However this is not difficult either. I don't believe this is nessessary on our cars. Someone please correct me if i am wrong. I should know.

drew
 
Like Drew said, pretty straightforward. Tips:

  • DO NOT let the brake caliper hang by the hose. Tie it up with wire while you're replacing the rotors.
  • Clean the hub surface (where the back of the rotor sits) with a wire brush and maybe apply a smidge of anti-seize to the surface.
  • The rear rotors can be a real bear to break free... since you're junking the old ones, hit them (hard) with a big hammer on the back side to break 'em free.
  • Don't forget that the pads will need to be pushed back into the calipers slightly as the new rotor will be thicker than the old one.
  • It's highly recommended to always install new pads with new rotors. Akebono Euro Ceramics are my current fave for street use, Porterfield R4-S for street+track use.


:banana1:
 
If new rotors are in order, I would recommend cadmium plating the rotors. Prior to my Silver Arrow brakes installation, I had the front and rear Brembo rotors cadmium plated and up to today, I have no rust on the rotors hats. Plus the silver cadmium color on the hats matches my lower cladding’s 7700 color. I believe new Benzes have their rotors plated as well, but I’m not sure if they use Zinc or Cadmium.

When I will try 2-piece rotors, the hats are aluminum and do not need any plating…but the cost of 2-piece rotors is not cheap, not by a long shot. :spend:


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I'm going to switch to ceramic brake-pads.
Akebonos is not available in Europe, but I've seen a lot of ATE dealers and good recommendations.
So ATE is my choice, only problem is I'm not sure of the part numbers? Any help?


(I also found out that there is a lot of doubt about EBC).
 

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