Recommendations wanted on how to deal with semi stripped steering wheel screw

[744Brillantsilber]

Hey everybody,

wanted to remove the steering wheel today and found this.
What do you recommend to remove the screw without stripping it all the way?
Not sure if the common method of hammering in a Torx works with a screw that's big and right.
Looking forward to your ideas and experiences!

 

[gsxr]

How loose does the hex driver fit into the recess? Using a liquid/paste similar to below may help a little, maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/MADE-USA-STRIPPED-EXTRACTOR-Tightens/dp/B08FWKNG52/

 

[Duh_Vinci]

I've removed MB steering wheels at least dozen plus times over the years, and cringe every time I get to this bolt for the same reason you showing in that picture! And when I see some ebay sellers actually sell these as "good used part" it's like chalk board scratching...

At this point, I think I would try, as you said, a quality slightly oversized torx and with 2 people, in and a large breaker bar, in one quick motion give it a try...

If that fails, as Dave showed above may try, or even drill further and use a quality reverse extractor? Kind of like this

 

[gerryvz]

I would hammer in a large Torx, as you mentioned, and use an impact wrench to break it loose. New steering wheel bolts are easy enough to come by. Maybe try to hammer a proper Hex into the slot, just to see if you can get it deep enough to get a bite.

But however you get it out -- replace it.

 

[Jlaa]

What's this dimple? And is the bottom of the engagement area rounded and not flat?




Are people using regular allen bits on this (and deforming the flats because the engagement area is too shallow with a rounded bottom of the engagement "well") when instead they should be using something like this: (Extended Pin Hex Key / Driver)

Elora 1/2 inch drive hex bit sockets Made in Germany

Elora 1/2 inch drive hex bit sockets are offered here online in sizes from 4 mm to 22 mm, 3/16 in. to 3/4 inch. They are available in various lengths and formats such as standard, ball type, and pin type hex drivers for Ribe-IC cap screws.

bloomertool.com

 

[gerryvz]

I have always used a 10mm Allen socket (1/2" drive) on this bolt. In the olden days, with a breaker bar. Nowadays, with a Milwaukee M18 gun.

 

[Duh_Vinci]

BTW, just enlarged the picture of you bolt, the inner, deeper section (yellow) is still "straight", it is somewhat "soft" bolt, I would take some kind of flat punch or 1/2 extension and hammer in those raised areas (red) back in to provide a better "bite" if you going to attempt again with a hex driver?

 

[Jlaa]

I have always used a 10mm Allen socket (1/2" drive) on this bolt. In the olden days, with a breaker bar. Nowadays, with a Milwaukee M18 gun.

BTW, just enlarged the picture of you bolt, the inner, deeper section (yellow) is still "straight", it is somewhat "soft" bolt, I would take some kind of flat punch or 1/2 extension and hammer in those raised areas (red) back in to provide a better "bite" if you going to attempt again with a hex driver?

View attachment 151312

Ah, not round-well-bottom then! Perhaps they use the recess for extended-pin-10mm-drivers then to make sure the bit is sitting orthogonally in the well so as to not round off the known-soft-metal of the bolt.

I like using an impact driver on steering wheel bolts too. It takes all the stress out of removing these (and prevents you from cracking the windshield if using a breaker bar)

 

[744Brillantsilber]

Thank you all for the good tips!

Gerry, a new screw is always a must!
They are micro capsuled and should only be used once.

I will think about it and try again as soon as I find some time and patience and will report back then.

 

[gerryvz]

I have never replaced one, unless it requires replacement due to your issue. That said, I always "re-encapsulate" it every time I re-install with new Blue Loctite.

 

[SVH]

Good luck Merlin.

 

[nocfn]

I have a spare at all time when I remove the wheel. Ruin your day without it potentially.

 

[tomer]

Gents, I will soon need to remove my steering wheel to replace the multi-function switch (signal light/wiper/high beam) and this is scaring me!!

In the first pic, I don't see an allen head yet Gerry has used this?... The Hex head seems to be in decent shape, is the issue that the head of the bolt is below/even with the surface at the bottom of this dish?

TIA

 

[JC220]

I had to drill one out of my 500E before - then get it started to turn with a punch:

Steering wheel removal | Interior Topics

I have been trying to remove my 1992 500E's steering wheel so I can replace the contact ring behind to cure a code 3 SRS fault. The first step is to remove the airbag from the front of the steering wheel. However- the 2x t27 bolts accessed from behind will not budge at all. Instead they are...

www.500eboard.co

Personally I have got good at starting any rounded allen head bolt with a sharp chisel. The bolt will need replaced but get an edge started, lean chisel the correct way and have at it. The shock and direction of hits will get it loose.

 

[jhodg5ck]

Get yourself a 1/2 inch set of cheap torx bits from Harbor Freight... Find one that's Bigger. Get out your BFH and an extension you don't mind mushrooming. Be Sure and Square with your placement of the torx bit each time you strike.
I can't begin to count the number of stripped/semi stripped cap screws I've removed with this method.

Double plus, beating it to death with a hammer usually loosens things up to boot!

jono

 

[744Brillantsilber]

Thank you all very much for your input!

The screw lost the game. A xzn-socket and an impact-driver did it.

The old screw was way too tight and with loctite all over the thread

 

[JC220]

Heat also softens loctite. Maybe an idea for some to use a small blow lamp and gently heat up the bolt as much as you dare before trying to undo it.