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OZ racing 17inch AMG cracked

shawnh

Active member
Member
Hi. Just bought a set of 4 OZ racing aero 3 3 pieces 17inch for my E 500 1994. The rear center face cracked the first day. I believed it was cracked and covered by welding. Anyone can help me to find one rear face piece please. Seller doesn’t want to have anything to do with that and I can’t use 3 wheels. Attached the picture. Appreciated. Shawn. 8589224439.
 

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Here is the picture of the cracked parts
 

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Shawn, I don't recommend a weld repair on these wheels.
The material will weld up pretty nicely, and by using correct weld wire the strength in the weld itself can be compensated. But the heat from the welding degrades the mechanical properties in the HAZ (heat affected zone) - along the edge of the weld. This means the weak point is just "moved around", to put it in a more understanding term. This is forged wheels where the combination of the chemical composition and a controlled heat treatment process makes the strength. By welding, the heat input will degrade the mechanical properties to an unknown extent. As for custom made replicas, believe me - they will never achieve such mechanical properties. Well, it can be done, but at an astronomic cost at your end.

These wheels are out on ebay year around, separate parts like discs and barrels as well. Many of them are refurbished, which is a risk because they may have hidden cracks below the new coating. The seller may not even know that the wheels had cracks prior to the refurbishment. Additionally the trend is that sellers think this is gold pushing extreme prices, with no warranty about the cracking issues. But the wheels don't sell that fast either, so it's likely the buyers market. :)
 
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OH yeah, here we go - post weld fatigue cracking!

I enlarged the photo and compared to a good disc, and you clearly see the weld on the backside of the spoke. This is exactly the risk scenario I was talking about in my previous post, the spoke has separated entirely from the barrel interface ring! I guess we can say that the AMG Aero OZ wheels are not subject to weld repairs.



Fatigue from weld repair..png
 
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Thank you all for the comment. Seems like welding out of question. Will inspect other 3. At this point not sure to buy one center piece of of eBay which is over $1000 or not use them at all.
 
Thank you all for the comment. Seems like welding out of question. Will inspect other 3. At this point not sure to buy one center piece of of eBay which is over $1000 or not use them at all.

Keep your wheels and be patient, a single wheel will come up for sale at some point. I've enclosed an image of my set showing the PNs.
 

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So many of these OZ wheels have lug bolt hole cracks that anyone would be taking a huge risk buying a wheel or set of these absent any positive declaration by the Seller that the wheel(s) is/are crack free. They are pretty wheels, no doubt. I have owned 2 amazing sets myself, but would be hesitant to try and acquire another set.

Thankfully, my widebody SEC is a Gen I or I would be caught up in the OZ madness myself.
 
Sad that people pass huge flaws as such with out any consideration for the safety of potential buyers... Sorry to see this happening with your set! With that said, never seen a crack like this!

Regards,
D
 
Damn. Did the wheel hit the mother of all potholes...? 3 of the 5 spokes are sheared right off!!

:duck:
 
I love those wheels but pain to maintain. You have a beautiful car, The wheels are different than mine but very nice. Do know who has a face piece matching mine?
 
Shawn, the OZ center piece you need is difficult to find, even worldwide. I have no leads to finding any. Jono at Blue Ridge and bb1 are probably your best bet if you want to fix that wheel and keep your set intact.

While I love these wheels on the E500E, the fragility and high cost have permanently scared me away from them - especially if they will be used driving on public roads, not just bolted on for car shows.

:duck:
 
Shawn, the OZ center piece you need is difficult to find, even worldwide. I have no leads to finding any. Jono at Blue Ridge and bb1 are probably your best bet if you want to fix that wheel and keep your set intact.

While I love these wheels on the E500E, the fragility and high cost have permanently scared me away from them - especially if they will be used driving on public roads, not just bolted on for car shows.

:duck:
Thanks. I know. Next time I read or ask about parts on the E500 board before purchasing. Direct messaged bb1 and Jono. No answer yet. Do you know there email address?
 
Yes, that center looks to be toast, strictly based on pics provided. I’d venture to say they welded over a crack without fully removing and likely didn’t add enough filler metal. Which usually self propagates a centerline crack, from the rapid cooling /shrinkage of the molten metal.
In regards to 500AMM’s post above- well explained for the lay man to understand. I do not disagree with it. But I’m not 100% on board. I don’t believe the base material is a heat treatable alloy. The HAZ is the weakest part. There are factors such as dilution and heat input that play a role in the final repair strength. More heat isn’t always better....!
Will a repaired wheel crack again? It’s definitely a possibility.... but the quality of the repair is usually a reflection of the person performing such repairs...
 
Yes, that center looks to be toast, strictly based on pics provided. I’d venture to say they welded over a crack without fully removing and likely didn’t add enough filler metal. Which usually self propagates a centerline crack, from the rapid cooling /shrinkage of the molten metal.
In regards to 500AMM’s post above- well explained for the lay man to understand. I do not disagree with it. But I’m not 100% on board. I don’t believe the base material is a heat treatable alloy. The HAZ is the weakest part. There are factors such as dilution and heat input that play a role in the final repair strength. More heat isn’t always better....!
Will a repaired wheel crack again? It’s definitely a possibility.... but the quality of the repair is usually a reflection of the person performing such repairs...
Thank you for the note. I won't repair this. I can't trust it. I am purchasing a face of of eBay.
 
Yes, that center looks to be toast, strictly based on pics provided. I’d venture to say they welded over a crack without fully removing and likely didn’t add enough filler metal. Which usually self propagates a centerline crack, from the rapid cooling /shrinkage of the molten metal.
In regards to 500AMM’s post above- well explained for the lay man to understand. I do not disagree with it. But I’m not 100% on board. I don’t believe the base material is a heat treatable alloy. The HAZ is the weakest part. There are factors such as dilution and heat input that play a role in the final repair strength. More heat isn’t always better....!
Will a repaired wheel crack again? It’s definitely a possibility.... but the quality of the repair is usually a reflection of the person performing such repairs...
7delta, thanks for filling in on this. And you're right about the heat treatment process, I just simplified the picture a bit. These discs are forged to shape, where the parameters like ramp up, temperature, holding time, cooling etc.. is a part of the forging process. All parameters has been set during the product development, next they have to be kept controlled during the entire production process to achieve repetitive mechanical properties on each item.

Just to narrow down the common issue on welding - the base material is melted to bond - but next it solidifies ultimately in its origin condition. So if a base material/product has undergone a heat treatment process to achieve specific mechanical properties - either as part of a production process or in a separate post heat treatment process, that will degrade along the edges of the weld. That makes it pretty challenging, and the more complex the base material is, the less is the chance to do a successful weld repair.

Another issue is weldabilty, where some base materials in fact cannot be welded, or their melting characteristics is weird and don't give a sound weld. Let's not dive into that topic here, but some of the cheap casted aftermarket wheels has a very bad weldability.
 
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wow amazing cracks on that face....like others, never seen it crack like that

were u driving it when u noticed something not right? do u recall hitting any pothole..
 
I bought them from someone in east coast He said they were refurbished not saying anything about the cracks that were welded and polished to cover. After driving Less than 100 miles I heard clicking noise. There it was the cracks opened up. Luckily I noticed it before the whole wheel falling apart otherwise would be a disaster. We checked only one was welded. Other 3 are ok.
 

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