WANTED Passenger side valve cover

[OttoB]

Hello...

A few months ago, the timing chain was replaced after it skipped a gear, resulting in major surgery on my car's engine. A couple of months later, the car began burning oil as a result of a leak on the passenger side valve cover. The shop replaced the seal and it held up for a few months. However, the smell of burnt oil resumed once more and the shop feels now believes that the valve cover must be warped (possibly when getting repeatedly struck by the timing chain?) and/or the bolts are not doing their job. The car is going in for paint soon, and the valve covers on my car have been painted. So, I need to get information from this board on where to source a passenger side valve cover so it can be painted to match the other side (part no. 190101030?) as well as new, replacement bolts. Thanks in advance in assisting me on this!

 

[captruff]

I believe I have one new. Let me confirm in an hour when I get to the office.

Jeff

 

[gsxr]

These covers rarely warp. I think the shop is grasping at straws. They know there are copper seals for each bolt that must be replaced, correct? And there's zero adhesive/RTV residue on either sealing surface? And they are installing OE rubber gaskets dry, with no extra sealant?

Something isn't right but I don't know if it's the valve cover at fault. Wouldn't hurt to have Jeff's spare though.

Edit: Also need to verify the rear "half moons" are properly seated, using a mirror. I'm also assuming the leak is 100% confirmed to be from the valve cover itself, and not something nearby like the cam advance solenoid.

 

[captruff]

Hello:

well I think I have the wrong side available.

Jeff

 

[sheward]

I believe I have one. I'll confirm in an hour.

 

[sheward]

I do have one. I also find it hard to accept that the valve cover is the problem. These are cast, and it seems unlikely they would warp or twist.

 

[gerryvz]

Drew's first in line, but I also have a set of 1994 original (factory unpainted) E500 valve covers I'd be happy to let go as a set. These are the ones that came off my car in 2020 when I replaced them with powder coated red units on my Top-End Refresh.

 

[Stevester 500E]

I see others are in line. I could sell you one at cost plus shipping. It is used and would need painting. Ships from S. California.

$40, plus shipping.

P.S. I concur with GSXR. Doubt yours is warped.

 

[OttoB]

The outpour of responses is immensely appreciated! The mechanic that’s worked on the car was on the forum a while ago looking for a project. He and his dad own a shop here in the Palm Beach area known for honesty, and they work on everything in the alphabet.

I will forward him this thread so that he becomes better informed as to how to tackle this ongoing issue. Any additional feedback is absolutely welcomed… Other than the valve covers, is there a bolt ‘kit’ and/or part numbers, or products needed like the copper seals, that can be sourced so that the fix is as straightforward as possible?

On a side note, I will be finally able to start a new owner thread in the upcoming weeks and excited about the changes the car is about to encounter.

 

[sheward]

Looking forward to hearing what you have planned. Did I understand correctly you are planning a respray? Is it too early to ask what color?

edit; a crack is a possibility, but I lean more towards Dave's thoughts.

 

[OttoB]

I am inclined on purchasing a pair as my body man can paint both and the mechanic and swap them out simultaneously, instead of hoping the paint guy some 40 miles away can match the existing color and then get the swap done.

Is there a link possibly available for the bolts and/or copper seals that someone can please share?

 

[Stevester 500E]

I realize others are in line. I have a set.
Ships from S. California.

$80 plus shipping

Regards,

Stevester 500E

 

[gsxr]

Bolts do not need replacement unless the heads are mangled. There are several different length bolts, which varies between early & late valve covers.

The copper O-rings are p/n 007603-006106, total of 18 required, get aftermarket which are a fraction of the cost of OE. And order a few extra in case they are dropped or lost.

 

[gsxr]

A couple of the bolts changed lengths during production - see below. Can't use generic bolts, need to order MB. Unless the bottom of the bolt head is damaged, OR the hex socket is damaged, they should not need replacement.

The 9Nm torque spec is critical, along with new copper seals. But you can not get a torque wrench on the rear/lower bolts with the engine in the car. Use a torque wrench on every bolt possible, then for the remaining few where the wrench doesn't fit, estimate tightening them the same amount.

Since the leak is on the passenger side, verify that the PCV hose is not leaking, this will drip oil onto the exhaust.

It would help to know EXACTLY WHERE the oil is leaking from. More specifically than just "passenger side".

 

[TerryA]

A couple of the bolts changed lengths during production - see below. Can't use generic bolts, need to order MB. Unless the bottom of the bolt head is damaged, OR the hex socket is damaged, they should not need replacement.

The 9Nm torque spec is critical, along with new copper seals. But you can not get a torque wrench on the rear/lower bolts with the engine in the car. Use a torque wrench on every bolt possible, then for the remaining few where the wrench doesn't fit, estimate tightening them the same amount.

Since the leak is on the passenger side, verify that the PCV hose is not leaking, this will drip oil onto the exhaust.

It would help to know EXACTLY WHERE the oil is leaking from. More specifically than just "passenger side".

View attachment 144512

Dave,

Since I plan on doing this job in the near future, does that diagram apply to R/L heads?

What’s the reference to the 2nd version?

Is there an engine cutoff number that changes the bolt pattern?

 

[dionphaneuf]

Is the procedure here to do all 9Nm in one shot, or do it stages (ie 3 on all, then 6, then 9)? All other cars I’ve done this on I usually do the max in one shot then do a second round of tightening as the first usually aren’t at 9Nm after a full round - the last bolts compress the gasket the most leaving the first ones tightened backed off a bit and in need of a re torque.

 

[Stevester 500E]

A couple of the bolts changed lengths during production - see below. Can't use generic bolts, need to order MB. Unless the bottom of the bolt head is damaged, OR the hex socket is damaged, they should not need replacement.

The 9Nm torque spec is critical, along with new copper seals. But you can not get a torque wrench on the rear/lower bolts with the engine in the car. Use a torque wrench on every bolt possible, then for the remaining few where the wrench doesn't fit, estimate tightening them the same amount.

Since the leak is on the passenger side, verify that the PCV hose is not leaking, this will drip oil onto the exhaust.

It would help to know EXACTLY WHERE the oil is leaking from. More specifically than just "passenger side".

View attachment 144512

PVC hose, common leak, either it not being clamped securely or a crack in it.

 

[gsxr]

Bolt part numbers:

 

[gerryvz]

Is the procedure here to do all 9Nm in one shot, or do it stages (ie 3 on all, then 6, then 9)? All other cars I’ve done this on I usually do the max in one shot then do a second round of tightening as the first usually aren’t at 9Nm after a full round - the last bolts compress the gasket the most leaving the first ones tightened backed off a bit and in need of a re torque.

Torque the bolts to the 9Nm in a "cross" pattern, not sequential. No need to do any stages -- just 9Nm on each one. After you're done, re-torque them just to make sure.

Wait 7-14 days, or a few heat cycles from driving the car, and then re-torque everything to the 9Nm to account for rubber valve cover gasket compression.

Use new copper washers. It is really a good idea to have two extra sets on hand. Get Elring or Fischer & Plath washers from an aftermarket source like AutohauZ or FCP Yurro.

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/007603-006106

Mercedes-Benz Copper Seal Ring for Valve Cover Screw - (6 X 10 X 1 mm) 007603006106 - FISCHER & PLATH