Pick and Pull Advice needed

[texas993]

I am interested in finding a few W124s in local junkyards. How do you all figure out which yards have W124s? I see Gerry and others talk about the parts that they get in yards.

I found one listed in Craigslist today. I drove 20 minutes to get there and my kids joined me. Got there (in a bad neighborhood), and guess what? No kids allowed. The neighborhood was not safe for me to leave the kids in the car while I checked to see which parts are still on the car. Darn it, that was a waste of time and energy.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[gerryvz]

I have found that the LKQ yards here in Houston are the best, considering that you can pull the parts yourself, and the prices are generally pretty reasonable. Yep, you generally can't take kids into a yard under the age of 16 or 18, safety/insurance reasons I guess.

I don't know where the best yards in the DFW area are ... our members samiam44 or alabassi (particularly alabassi) can definitely tell you that. But I do know there are at least 3-4 yards there that are quite good. We have quite a number of good yards here in Houston too -- but I only frequent 3-4 of them. I try to visit every 2-3 weeks.

There are web sites that index the yards as to what parts and cars are available, but I don't know what they are (others here can help you with that -- GSXR?!?). I just go to the LKQ web site as the yards that I frequent, are updated regularly. I often find that the yards update the cars incorrectly, so often you will see that the year or model of the car listed on the web site is totally different than what you find in the yard.

What I do is to just look to see if there are 3-4 new Benzes on the listing. If so, and they are generally in the ballpark as to the years or models of my cars, then I'll go and visit. Generally I find anywhere from 3-4 W126 models, 3-4 W124 models, 1-2 W140s, 1-2 W210s, etc.

I try to carry a 5-gallon bucket full of tools into the PYP yards ... full sets of 1/4" and 3/8" sockets, allen sockets, several sizes of screwdrivers Philips and flathead, Crescent wrench of two, allen wrench set, and several sizes of pliers and wire cutters. This will generally take care of 90% of situations where you need to remove parts. For the sockets, it's imperative to bring the following sizes: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 16mm.

The LKQ site that I go to (where you can specify which of their nationwide yards you want to search) is at: http://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[texas993]

Thank you Gerry. That is excellent information. And thanks for the tips on tools to bring. I am going hunting week... Let me know if you need anything.

I mostly need need a couple of things for the E300D.

 

[txbrit]

Although LKQ has Pick and Pull in Houston, all their yards in DFW are "Non-Pick and Pull" i.e. you either have to call and/or go to their locations in either Halthom City/Hutchins - they "look up" their 'stock' and then pull it for you - then they will then deliver it the Halthom City/Hutchins where you can inspect it and decide if you want to buy or not - *maybe* - I can explain further if you wish, but they typically are not moved with care and precision.

Two main parts of DFW where yards are located - Halthom City, is pretty much all domestic/Asian - the second you say you are looking for anything European, they will tell you "NO" before you even have time to say what you are looking for.

Grand Prairie you will have a little more luck - but as Gerry said, its definitely not a place to bring the kids and you are typically not dealing with the sharpest tools in the box.

One good website for finding used parts http://www.car-part.com

 

[texas993]

Thanks txbrit. Good to know.

I found a couple of 124s on picknpull.com that are local. But a few of them have been there for months - so I'll bet the pickin' is slim.

I'll keep looking and report back.

 

[samiam44]

Older w124 show up on Elliot Reeder road. The first place .west most place has them. North side of the road.

 

[texas993]

Thanks Michael. Let me know if you want me to be on the lookout for something.

 

[gerryvz]

Thanks Michael. Let me know if you want me to be on the lookout for something.

Two weekends ago I came across a 1992 300E with a black interior. I was able to get the black rear-deck speaker covers (often get brittle with sun exposure) and a pair of nice black sun visors Little trim items that are helpful to have.

 

[texas993]

Gerry,

So you pull the part, take it to the counter and negotiate a price? Or are the prices set? How about if you want to ask about the price prior to pulling?

Such a newbie, so many questions.

 

[gerryvz]

Prices are generally pretty much set, I don't negotiate with LKQ and the prices are pretty reasonable so I don't feel I need to much.

Another independent yard I go to, I know the owner (he is always happy to see me) and I tend to bundle things at the counter. He asks me how much I think is fair and I quote HIM a price I think is good. Sometimes he is good with that, other times he will quote me a higher price, and then we'll meet in the middle of his and my price. He is a Lebanese guy and happy to give me great deals as long as I keep coming back, which I do. Only problem is that his yard is a full hour's drive from my house, and 30-35 minutes from the office, so I have to take a long lunch to get there, muck around the yard, and get back to the office....

 

[400Eric]

Yes, you can ask the counter when you first get there how much your particular parts are going to cost. Some stuff is priced fairly, some stuff isn't. So yes, it is a good idea to find out BEFORE you go through the effort of pulling the part. No unpleasant surprises that way!

Some you-pull-its will try to soak you if they know that you are buying MERCEDES parts! They start rubbing their hands together if you know what I mean. Even if you are just some poor slob just trying to keep your POS 25 year old 200,000 plus mile 300E on the road, it doesn't matter, "You must be rich!" Never mind the fact that if you were rich you wouldn't be dicking around in a you-pull-it buying junk parts for a junky 25 year old car! Anyways, if they can't tell what the part is from, and they ask you, say it's from a Buick. (This advice only applies to SOME yards. A lot of them don't care. Watch-out though just in case! Remember, if they ask, say Buick!)

LKQ has been on a buying spree, taking all of your hard earned money and using it to buy more yards. They even bought a major you-pull-it chain out here called PICK-A-PART. So check and see, cause some of the yards that are local to you may in fact be owned by LKQ and thus be on that LKQ site, which means that you will be able to monitor their new arrivals, and be the first to hit them when they hit the ground. It doesn't always work out this way though. I've seen cars listed on the site that still haven't hit the yard yet and I've also seen stuff in the yard that didn't get listed on the site till a nearly a week later. Still, keeping tabs on the computer does increase your chances of getting there before the car gets totally stripped.

Judging by the posts in this thread, it sounds like being a Benz man in Texas is about as much fun as it was for me to be an AMC man in Texas back in 1984-1988! (I couldn't find squat for my cars!)

Regards,
Eric

 

[gerryvz]

Plenty of Benzes here in Houston in the yards ... it's a steady stream.

 

[alabbasi]

For anyone in DFW, check out Awesome Auto Salvage on Jefferson Blvd. They're a pull your own parts place and they're cash only which is good for us as it seems to keep the parts prices lower then the other yards. The same guys have another yard down the street (name slips my mind) that has newer cars, but it's not as cheap as they do the pulling.

 

[texas993]

Success!!

I went to two yards today and found some stuff that I needed for my E300D. (Nothing for the 500E as all of the salvaged cars were rough). I spent a total of $30 and got

1. Mirror boots for both sides. Not perfect, but still pliable and usable. The ones on the 300D were terrible, so I will swap those out.
2. Fuel door vacuum actuator
3. Temp display for the dash (not sure if it works yet)
4. Rear view mirror (interior)

Not a bad haul for $30. I really had a blast! However, it sure was sad to see these cars in that condition. Gerry, one was a '95 E320 wagon. But it had really been picked over.

The toolkit in a bucket was a fantastic idea. Thanks for all of the tips.

 

[gerryvz]

Not a bad haul for $30. I really had a blast! However, it sure was sad to see these cars in that condition. Gerry, one was a '95 E320 wagon. But it had really been picked over.

The toolkit in a bucket was a fantastic idea. Thanks for all of the tips.

The E500E shares a couple of its CAN computers with those in the 140, and a 140 or 129 5-liter EZL will work (check the board for appropriate part numbers). It's always a good idea to get the computers and all possible relays, particularly as the E500E shares most of its relays with later (post 1991) 124 models. I'm talking things like:

convenience relay, all relays behind the fuse panel, fuel pump relay, and so forth. For your E300D, perhaps things like the Klima relay and OVP relay too. Vacuum actuators are good, front door window regulators, instrument cluster (for spare instruments), klima pushbutton unit, airbags, all switches in the center console, door switches, M119 MAF, and so forth. Generally things like the wood, radio, dashboard, seats, and so forth tend to be trashed by previous pickers. Also the M119 EZLs are in high demand, so 90% of the time they are the first thing to go. I often see cars with unopened CAN boxes, but with the EZL gone, even a half day after it hit the yard. "Must have" relays include the blinker/flasher relay (these do go out) and the lights-out-sensor relay, both of which are found on the late 126 and the 124s. A 500E/E500 ETA is always a priority too -- if you find a 400E or E420 with ASR, then you can snag the ETA for it. Particularly if it has a later date code which means it was a replacement. You just have to make sure it has the same type of connector (early or late) as your car does.

Other than the EZL and CAN computers, and some engine things, the W140s don't have much to offer in the way of trim pieces and relays as they are very different than the 124s. Good to get a set of M119 fuel injectors to have on hand as spares too. If you have patience, M119 smog pump, alternator, starter, etc. Sometimes you can find a good 400E or E420 and this is generally a gold mine for a 500E owner.

The buckets are nice because they not only hold tools, but allow you to carry a good amount of parts out of the yard and up to the counter.

 

[gsxr]

I went to two yards today and found some stuff that I needed for my E300D. (Nothing for the 500E as all of the salvaged cars were rough). I spent a total of $30 and got

1. Mirror boots for both sides. Not perfect, but still pliable and usable. The ones on the 300D were terrible, so I will swap those out.

Patrick, you may not be able to remove the boots intact, or if they do come off in one piece, they may not go on to the next mirrors without tearing. The easiest way is to swap the entire mirror assembly. The painted covers can be removed and swapped if they are a different color. If the donor was a 93-95 car you're all set. If not, the left mirror will be mechanical instead of electric. I've done this swap a couple of times when I've been able to locate good used boots, which isn't often...

 

[gerryvz]

If you do switch mirror covers, BE VERY CAREFUL AND TAKE YOUR TIME because they are delicate at the edges and tend to crack easily -- the plastic is an exposed part so can weather.

Honestly.... best to just buy new boots, though (I know from experience) it's painful and I would only advise it if you plan to keep the car.

And if you do buy and install new boots ... I recommend slathering them with 303 Protectant every night before you go to bed, to preserve them in perpetuity.

 

[texas993]

The mirror boots that I got were for the E300D. This car sits outside and will be my sons when he works up the desire to drive. And, surprisingly, they came off easily. They were either newish or in a mild climate. They are surprisingly soft and I removed them from the mirrors easily. When I re-assemble them, I will warm them up and use some 303 to lube it up. Wish me luck. If it doesn't work, I only lose $4. I would buy new for the 500E!

I didn't even think about taking the mirrors complete. But these were late 80's cars. I wasn't even sure if they were the same part. But they appear to be.

Gerry, your list is making my head spin. Wow. I don't know what half of that stuff is. But I will continue my learning and research them. I noticed that many of the electrical items you mention were gone. All 300s or 320s. I noticed that the temp displays and wiring harnesses were gone on all of the cars.

 

[texas993]

All of the parts that I purchased have been installed. And everything works! The mirror boots were so soft that they slipped right on. They must have been recent replacements. That was the biggest improvement to the car. Oh, and I am glad that it has the ambient temp display functioning.

Because it is a beater car, I couldn't justify the expense of new parts for the 300D. The 500E would be a different story.

 

[gerryvz]

Patrick,

What was the symptom that required the temp display to need replacing?

 

[texas993]

Gerry,

Most of the time, the display was blank. Occasionally, it would display a number, but it was way off. I read about repairing it - but I am not proficient in electronics. The LED screen was fine. New (used) one functions perfectly.

This seems to be a typical 124 issue.

 

[gerryvz]

Thanks. Yes, sometimes it can be the cable, and often times the display. I have 3-4 spares, so would have been happy to bring you one, gratis. Let me know if there are any 124 parts that you need me to bring up when we come.

BTW I'll be in touch re: plans. Sorry for not responding sooner.

 

[bing]

Patrick, if Gerry's list is making your head spin just go check out the prices new, then you'll be bangin your head against the wall.. That LCD temp display alone is $400+, CAN modules and ETA $$$$ !! So worth getting your hands dirty .


Sent while on the road using Tapatalk

 

[400Eric]

What was the symptom that required the temp display to need replacing?

Is there a fix that you were about to share? I have several where they have slowly started, at the edge at first and eventually taking over the whole screen, just taken on a "dead" appearance. It's difficult to describe but I'm sure others here have seen it. It's like a cancer slowly taking over and leaving only a dead, nobody's home appearance in it's wake, until the whole screen is dead. Is there a fix for that? Most of the ones at the JY have that look about them too.

 

[texas993]

Gerry,

We are looking forward to your visit.

Thanks for the parts offer. I don't need anything right now. But I certainly am addicted to junkyards!

400Eric. All that I know is what I read on one of the other forums. Particularly this thread:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...-outside-temperature-display.html#post5888257

It appears that once the displays look like you describe - where it looks like ink spilled or leaked - they are dead. If the display is clear looking and doesn't work, it is a failed capacitor that can be re-soldered in. Check out the thread. BTW, the display that I pulled has a good display (no ink stain). I'll keep it in case I want to repair it in the future.

 

[gsxr]

Thanks, Patrick! I've had to replace a few of these displays, it's a common failure. I didn't know they were potentially fixable. I'll have to see if I saved any dead ones to play with...

 

[Stevester 500E]

On a priority list, what are the modules one should scavenge from a good 400e/e420?
Are all the models located under the passenger floor mat or elsewhere too?

 

[8899]

Modules are in the CAN box except for the BM I believe.

 

[gerryvz]

Four modules are located in the CAN box underhood:

• LH (fuel injection) module
• E-GAS (ETA controller) module
• BM (OVP and other functions) module
• ABS/ASR (brakes + traction control) module

One module is located under the driver's side dashboard:

• DM (diagnostic) module - for US cars with CELs only

One module is located on the driver's side inner fender-well:

• EZL/AKR (ignition control) module - for ignition & anti-knock control

There is a reference post in the WIKI about this, located here.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gsxr]

On a priority list, what are the modules one should scavenge from a good 400e/e420?
Are all the models located under the passenger floor mat or elsewhere too?

Remember that only a couple of the 400E modules will work on a 500E.

 

[Jlaa]

I went to a pick'n'pull in Oakland CA for the first time in my life --- based on the advice in this thread.
I brought two 5-gallon buckets. One full of tools. One for harvesting my gains.

There was a freshly-brought in 400E w/ 172K miles on the clock. Someone how gotten there before me and sliced open the wiring harness --- the wiring harness was original (junk)

Anyways, I took the EZL, mined the CAN box for all the computers, took all the relays just forward of the firewall, took the vacuum pump under the rear seat, took both Becker amplifiers for the 1432 as well as the main receiver unit in the trunk.

But then I got sticker shock at the front desk. They wanted $50 for the LH module and ABS module, $40 for each of the Becker amps (two of them!), another $50 for the Becker main unit, $25 for the vacuum pump under the rear seat, $5.99 for each of the relays with 6 pins or less, etc etc.

It was going to be a $400 day and I didn't want to spend that much. Were my expectations in line with your expectations or are my expectations too much?
I note that captruff has the LH module to a 4.2L M119 for sale, including postage for $70. Well, if I had bought the same LH module from the pick'n'pull, I would have paid $50 + tax, then take on postage ----- it doesn't seem worth it for me to mine this stuff and then sell it .....

So I put almost everything back, including the EZL.

In the end I took the base module, the N10 relay, the bulb-out-warning relay, and the rear license plate bracket off an early w124 sedan. All for a total of $55. It doesn't feel like a smoking good deal to me? I am curious as to all your experiences --- this was my first time at a pick'n'pull.

 

[gsxr]

I've encountered the same sticker shock, Jlaa. California Pick+Pull prices have become painfully high. For certain items, it may be worth it (i.e., if that 400E had ASR, the E-GAS module would be worth $50). For other items, it would be easier to buy from captruff or eBay. P+P list prices on their website, and the prices may vary by location (click here for Oakland pricing). Always check pricing before you bother pulling parts. Worse yet, some items are priced at the discretion of the guy at the counter... for example, what you may call a large relay ($11), they may consider a computer module ($25-$50).

P+P periodically have half-price sales, which are of course the ideal time to raid the yards, but they don't always have the vehicle you want in the yard at that time. And, sometimes people "pre-pull" parts prior to the sale, store them in a different make/model, then show up on sale day to snag the stuff for cheap.

Sorry your day ended up as a bust!

 

[MB V8]

Whoa jlaa I think I would have got sticker shock too and returned the parts that you did. It does sound like Cali prices are higher than the PNP I frequent in Columbus. I'm going to run your parts thru the local pricing matrix and see what I come up with.

I haven't bot many electrical/electronic parts from PNP, but I did buy a tranny recently from a '95 E420 for $100. Go figure a LH module costs $50 and tranny cost $100.

 

[Jlaa]

I've encountered the same sticker shock, Jlaa. California Pick+Pull prices have become painfully high. For certain items, it may be worth it (i.e., if that 400E had ASR, the E-GAS module would be worth $50). For other items, it would be easier to buy from captruff or eBay. P+P list prices on their website, and the prices may vary by location (click here for Oakland pricing). Always check pricing before you bother pulling parts. Worse yet, some items are priced at the discretion of the guy at the counter... for example, what you may call a large relay ($11), they may consider a computer module ($25-$50).

P+P periodically have half-price sales, which are of course the ideal time to raid the yards, but they don't always have the vehicle you want in the yard at that time. And, sometimes people "pre-pull" parts prior to the sale, store them in a different make/model, then show up on sale day to snag the stuff for cheap.

Thanks! Well the day ended up being an eye-opener for me ---- and I got the thing I really wanted (the license plate bracket so that I can make my w124's rear end the european style vs. the USA style) ---- and next time I know to go (a) with a plan and (b) check prices first, rather than going ape-shit and grabbing everything around like a kid in a candy store!!!!

 

[samiam44]

I've hit a bunch in the area. Some are on row52, so I get a text when they come in the yard.
Others, you have to check individually. I've had a few parts which were high priced and told the manager it was a 5.99 bracket. . Not gonna speND 30+$ for it. Never had someone refuse.

Good stuff goes quick. Throttle actuators if new won't be there in 34hrs, ezl, etc. Best prices are the non chain ones. Got lots of stuff on my first pull. Quite amazing.
A impact is a life saver for time.

Been kinda slim on 034s this year. Been pretty lucky and have found nearly new reservoirs, fan clutches etc.

 

[Dario]

Thanks! Well the day ended up being an eye-opener for me ---- and I got the thing I really wanted (the license plate bracket so that I can make my w124's rear end the european style vs. the USA style) ---- and next time I know to go (a) with a plan and (b) check prices first, rather than going ape-shit and grabbing everything around like a kid in a candy store!!!!

you found in Junkyard euro trunk insert like i have on my 500E wow

 

[sheward]

Those prices are fairly typical of what I have paid here. Two things to keep in mind; these types of parts are becoming very scarce and used electrical parts are a gamble. I always express the later to the person asking for my cash

drew

 

[Jlaa]

you found in Junkyard euro trunk insert like i have on my 500E wow

No, not exactly. I do not believe that pre facelift cars in Europe, specifically sedans, ever came with the plastic panel that you show on your car. I believe those plastic panels came on coupes but not pre-facelift sedans in Europe. Attached to this post is a photo of a European specification pre facelift sedan rear end bur living in the US with the license plate bracket I was after. The photo is actually from gsxr’s site.

 

[Duh_Vinci]

I'm frequent to local pick-a-part, and in the last 6 months I've noticed the prices have gone up. Not quite as much as Jlaa visit. Here is our area's list for comparison http://www.pickapartva.com/u-pick-price-list/ But every so often they will through in a curve... Last time I was picking R129, had very nice hard top. Asked the counter guy inside how much, "Haul it out now today, $75" Needless to say, I came home with it, along $15 per caliper, rears (CLK500/SL500/Silver Arrow units). Just depends on the day here and who's at the counter...

Regards,
D

 

[2phast]

Patrick, you may not be able to remove the boots intact, or if they do come off in one piece, they may not go on to the next mirrors without tearing. The easiest way is to swap the entire mirror assembly. The painted covers can be removed and swapped if they are a different color. If the donor was a 93-95 car you're all set. If not, the left mirror will be mechanical instead of electric. I've done this swap a couple of times when I've been able to locate good used boots, which isn't often...

A good tip for dealing with these pieces is to heat them up with a heat gun, that way they are way more compliant and can be manipulated/stretched for removal and installation

 

[2phast]

Although LKQ has Pick and Pull in Houston, all their yards in DFW are "Non-Pick and Pull" i.e. you either have to call and/or go to their locations in either Halthom City/Hutchins - they "look up" their 'stock' and then pull it for you - then they will then deliver it the Halthom City/Hutchins where you can inspect it and decide if you want to buy or not - *maybe* - I can explain further if you wish, but they typically are not moved with care and precision.

Two main parts of DFW where yards are located - Halthom City, is pretty much all domestic/Asian - the second you say you are looking for anything European, they will tell you "NO" before you even have time to say what you are looking for.

Grand Prairie you will have a little more luck - but as Gerry said, its definitely not a place to bring the kids and you are typically not dealing with the sharpest tools in the box.

One good website for finding used parts http://www.car-part.com

Car-Part.com is a good source for locating parts and comparing prices, but many times these sellers don't post pictures of the item or details. Also, most times when you try to contact them through the email network, these sellers never respond. You end up having to call them and good luck asking for them to take pictures. Seems most of these wrecking yards employ less than cooperative people.

 

[gsxr]

Car-Part.com is a good source for locating parts and comparing prices, but many times these sellers don't post pictures of the item or details. Also, most times when you try to contact them through the email network, these sellers never respond. You end up having to call them and good luck asking for them to take pictures. Seems most of these wrecking yards employ less than cooperative people.

You need the patience of Job when dealing with salvage yards via car-part.com. Some places will refuse to provide the VIN of the donor car so you can confirms things like ASR vs non-ASR (the website listings are often inaccurate). And you also have to be tolerant when dealing with an obnoxious, unhappy employee on the other end of the phone, if you really want whatever part they have. If you're lucky, they'll insist on you filling out a paper form via fax (!) for payment. No, seriously. Some places are great to deal with, but they are as rare as Gerry driving a diesel.

 

[DerFuror]

My Hinterlands pick 'n pull prices are fairly reasonable; but there's just not many W124s that end up here.

My local also promotes weekly specials; for example, buy a complete door assembly for $21, or a transmission for $75, or windshield glass for $17...which is great to take advantage of when a W124 does show up.



I go online to check the latest additions to the yard, or call ahead to verify if a specific type of vehicle is in the yard (& its location). Saves unnecessary travel.

 

[JC220]

Thanks! Well the day ended up being an eye-opener for me ---- and I got the thing I really wanted (the license plate bracket so that I can make my w124's rear end the european style vs. the USA style) ---- and next time I know to go (a) with a plan and (b) check prices first, rather than going ape-shit and grabbing everything around like a kid in a candy store!!!!

Jlaa I feel your pain! 400USD for what is essentially a handful of parts is way too expensive for a parts yard – that’s ebay prices man!

We have a couple of local privately run MB parts yards here. The prices are literally decided when you roll up to the counter with your parts. Since I have frequented these yards for many years and have built up a friendship with the employees they give me good prices on the stuff. Generally I do have strategies though to feed my w124 parts hoarding habit:

Buy small part lots. For example rolling up with one 320CE ECU is liable to cost £50+. Whereas combining it within a bundle of other parts means it will not attract too much interest and more likely cost as little as £5. The yards have few w124’s left and all newer iron. So for lowly w124 parts in their eyes the price rarely gets much over £100 no matter how much stuff you present (Within reason of course)

Do all your own stunts. I always bring all my own tools and know how to remove what I want on the day so as not to bother to staff for anything else other than paying at the end. I’ve seen other lazy people turn up and ask for help and / or having the parts removed for them and paying the price!

One of these yards ask me each time – “what do you want to pay?”! So I price my own parts bundles and they might add £10 on top occasionally but mostly go with what I offer.

I have it dialled in pretty good now. For example just last Saturday I got: a spare & complete c124 door with working window regulator, a seatbelt butler with relay, a pair of C124 locking pumps, sunroof lift arms, a 320CE HFM VDO ECU and 3x C124 rear window regulators (2 tested working in car – 1x I will repair the motor on) for £70 total.



Is that on par with your USA pick and pull prices for a similar bundle?

Now in the UK those C124 parts are quite valuable, £100+ on ebay for any one C124 window regulator for example. So that’s as good as it gets!

 

[gerryvz]

I went to a pick'n'pull in Oakland CA for the first time in my life --- based on the advice in this thread.
I brought two 5-gallon buckets. One full of tools. One for harvesting my gains.

There was a freshly-brought in 400E w/ 172K miles on the clock. Someone how gotten there before me and sliced open the wiring harness --- the wiring harness was original (junk)

Anyways, I took the EZL, mined the CAN box for all the computers, took all the relays just forward of the firewall, took the vacuum pump under the rear seat, took both Becker amplifiers for the 1432 as well as the main receiver unit in the trunk.

But then I got sticker shock at the front desk. They wanted $50 for the LH module and ABS module, $40 for each of the Becker amps (two of them!), another $50 for the Becker main unit, $25 for the vacuum pump under the rear seat, $5.99 for each of the relays with 6 pins or less, etc etc.

It was going to be a $400 day and I didn't want to spend that much. Were my expectations in line with your expectations or are my expectations too much?
I note that captruff has the LH module to a 4.2L M119 for sale, including postage for $70. Well, if I had bought the same LH module from the pick'n'pull, I would have paid $50 + tax, then take on postage ----- it doesn't seem worth it for me to mine this stuff and then sell it .....

So I put almost everything back, including the EZL.

In the end I took the base module, the N10 relay, the bulb-out-warning relay, and the rear license plate bracket off an early w124 sedan. All for a total of $55. It doesn't feel like a smoking good deal to me? I am curious as to all your experiences --- this was my first time at a pick'n'pull.

Ahh yes, the "PnP Parts Price Heart Attack." A true & very normal rite of passage for all aspiring E500E parts hoarders. Tis normal, young Paduwan.....

Exacerbated, in your case, by your residence within the boundaries of the PRK, with its bountiful bonanza of living costs, wonderful taxes and best of all..... the environmental fees as the whip cream & cherry on top of the PnP parts price Milkshake.

It's enough to make one inhale a few blasts of Brakleen CFC red-can brake cleaner to provide temporary relief ..... except that's illegal and outlawed within your state. So legal "Governor Moonbeam" herb or "Elon" weed it is...... pick your poison !!

Parts prices started creeping up during the years I was scavenging in Houston, to the point where CAN computers and EZLs basically weren't worth it at $40-50 apiece. ETAs were fairly spendy as well. It got to the point during the latter couple of years that I would only buy things that I didn't have, or I knew were needed by the E500E community, such as good-condition mirror boots.

Fortunately, since moving to Maryland last year (and scavenging the yards for the year or so before I moved), we have a literal BOUNTY of five LKQ PyP yards within an hour's drive of Annapolis, and they have reasonable parts prices (at least compared to the LKQ yards in Houston. CAN computers tend to run $25-30 apiece along with a small core fee. Transmission valve bodies are $80-85 apiece (and the entire transmission with valve body can be had for $125). Rubber boots and trim pieces are very low, $3-10 apiece depending on the piece. ASR pumps are going for around $75-80 each.

So, for me as a parts hoarder, happy days are here again.



I in turn pass on the wealth here, which is one reason why you've been seeing me sell so much in recent months. Having FOUR .034s hit the Baltimore yards in the past three months hasn't hurt things, either.

My experience with the yards over the past 10 years is that pricing has been subjective, based on the whims of the cashier. I know they have a price list that they are supposed to use, but often the cashier doesn't know what the part is and has to ask me what it is. They they apply a price to it.

I've found that here in Maryland, the cashiers seem to know their stuff better, and the prices are MUCH more consistent and predictable.

 

[Jlaa]

There's a 1997 W140 S420 at my local pick'n'pull. I'm thinking of hitting it tomorrow.
What's good to get from these?

I'm thinking -

-airbox cover
-EZL -- is this compatible with the w124 500E?
-spare tire tool kit
----> anything else?

Thanks.

 

[a777fan]

Pretty sure the EZL is displacement specific, so the 420 won’t work for your E.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[captruff]

There's a 1997 W140 S420 at my local pick'n'pull. I'm thinking of hitting it tomorrow.
What's good to get from these?

I'm thinking -

-airbox cover
-EZL -- is this compatible with the w124 500E?
-spare tire tool kit
----> anything else?

Thanks.

Unless the airbox is needed or in mint condition I would not bother. I have sold 2-3 over the last 10 years.

Jeff

 

[Klink]

Pretty sure the EZL is displacement specific, so the 420 won’t work for your E.

They are displacement specific, model year specific, and closed/open deck block specific. Any one can be used to run any engine in an emergency/rescue situation...

 

[Klink]

There's a 1997 W140 S420 at my local pick'n'pull. I'm thinking of hitting it tomorrow.
What's good to get from these?

I'm thinking -

-airbox cover
-EZL -- is this compatible with the w124 500E?
-spare tire tool kit
----> anything else?

Thanks.

Always get that 140 lug wrench. It's elongated in the loosening direction, and short to avoid overtorquing in the tightening direction, and it fits in the 124 vehicle without difficulty.