R129 / W124 Idler bushing

[Xanzar21]

Doing the idler bushing now , after having worked through the scary powersteering pump reservoir issue (Unknown power steering reservoir (no part number) - 1997 SL500 | Off-Topic Discussions), its time to tackle the next most dominant issue I have. After doing the power steering pump, steering damper, and engine mounts the idler bushing made itself a known issue(lots of shakes lots of vibration at highway speed 60mph+). Going to document this repair under the shared parts category(if such a thing exist). It has the same parts number as the 500E unit and is surprisingly simple to do. That said anyone doing it is working under the car and will need to be extremely safe about doing so. I have two 3-ton rated jack stands and a 2-ton rated jack aftermarket jack, as well as a Chevrolet G20's 2-ton rated jack; I do not intend to die under this car and I am doing everything in my power to prevent that(save for sending it to the shop; in fact I am currently considering opening an r129/w124/w140/w163 specialist shop ; I've fallen in love with these specfic chassis). PPE required : ANSI impact rated goggles , heat and scratch resistant gloves, and either cardboard or carpet for the ground. while you're in there check for bushing damage around the entire front end. Again safety cannot be overstated, if you're gonna be under the car try to make it as much of a one time thing as possible. So to that end purchase a new center drag link, and tie rods for both ends, if you happen to need brake work done now is also a good time to get them done as the front end will be lifted during this event. I plan to start work on this project this week on 06/25/2026. Tools required:8mm socket(for the idler arm bushings heat shield), 24mm wrench(ratcheting wrench if you're feeling fancy), 1/2inch drive 24mm deep socket, 1/2 torque wrench, bushing pullers of various sizes(choose one that works for you), 1/2inch drive hammer wrench(electric, for removal of fasteners only after being started by the regular wrench; again we are trying to do this once), Water (however many bottles you may need, stay hydrated don't die of heat exhaustion); and lastly 30 minutes of time to get the work area setup.

 

[Xanzar21]

Ok so got a quote from the shop just to see how much it would have costed, whole lot of $57 and not paying $1200 later its installed. Here's some pics of the carnage and absolute hell I went through for the past 48 hours. Again I'd rather spend the 48hrs than pay. If you have access to it go to a DIY shop, a lift would have made this job way easier. Sidenote: Don't burn yourself if the car has recently been driven give the Cats about 2hrs to cook down; and if time is not an option don some mechanics gloves for thermal shielding.

 

[emerydc8]

That’s got to be no fun working in the gravel. Have you noticed any difference in handling?

 

[Xanzar21]

Haven't done a road test yet, but I will be replacing the center draglink and tie rods soon. The gravels not too bad , I got to watch a small ant army battle a beetle during this install ; the beetle lost but took like 15 of the ants with it.

 

[Xanzar21]

Did a road test, turns out I somehow managed to flatspot the original 16's , anyway reequipped the 17's and it handles better than ever.....going to get the 16's replaced for winter only use now.