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OWNER Surf Blau (Norsker)

Now, another thing I'm unsure of is the sound my air pump makes - it does sound like an air pump (duh!), but it's fairly loud and I'm wondering if its supposed to be like this.
The air pump should be fairly quiet. Like, almost silent, but not quite. You should barely be able to tell it's engaged, over the noise of the engine at idle.



It also shuts off when the ASR-light comes on....
now THAT is weird!


and I've never seen it engage again before I start the car again. I've attached a video showing the sound and it shutting off.
Once it shuts off a few minutes after a cold start, it MAY turn back on randomly (even at full operating temp!), but often will remain off until the next cold start.


:v8:
 
Hmm, based on your info I presume the pump on my car is about to go out perhaps? Are these different on different cars, or will any pump from an M119 with the correct amount of tracks in the serpentine belt fit?

I read somewhere else here that the pump normally shuts off after a few minutes, and as the ASR-light goes out after 3 minutes it might just be a coincidence.. As I mentioned I've never heard it engage again outside of startup.
 
Hmm, based on your info I presume the pump on my car is about to go out perhaps? Are these different on different cars, or will any pump from an M119 with the correct amount of tracks in the serpentine belt fit?
All the M119.97x air pumps should be interchangeable, I think, just match 6-rib vs 8-rib pulleys (they are different diameters, IIRC). There are some threads and videos about repairing / refurbishing the pump internals. Might be worth trying to open it up and clean it?



I read somewhere else here that the pump normally shuts off after a few minutes, and as the ASR-light goes out after 3 minutes it might just be a coincidence.. As I mentioned I've never heard it engage again outside of startup.
Could be coincidence. The pump not running isn't a problem. On a car without CEL (anywhere outside North America), if you disconnect the pump, the only result will be a fault code on pin 4 / LH module. The only purpose is to reduce emissions during the rich condition of a cold start.

:bbq:
 
All the M119.97x air pumps should be interchangeable, I think, just match 6-rib vs 8-rib pulleys (they are different diameters, IIRC). There are some threads and videos about repairing / refurbishing the pump internals. Might be worth trying to open it up and clean it?
Do I understand you correctly if I think you're saying that nothing besides the pump not working will happen if the pump has an issue? Ie, it won't seize to an extent that the belt an possibly other auxiliaries might be damaged?
 
Do I understand you correctly if I think you're saying that nothing besides the pump not working will happen if the pump has an issue? Ie, it won't seize to an extent that the belt an possibly other auxiliaries might be damaged?
If the pump is electrically disconnected, the clutch never engages, and the internal parts do not rotate. As long as the bearing is good, the pump would then act as an idler pulley. The concern would be if you leave it alone and it continues to get louder during operation, eventually it could seize or otherwise cause a problem.

:klink:
 
If the pump is electrically disconnected, the clutch never engages, and the internal parts do not rotate. As long as the bearing is good, the pump would then act as an idler pulley. The concern would be if you leave it alone and it continues to get louder during operation, eventually it could seize or otherwise cause a problem.

:klink:
Right, that's what I feared - or rather, I was hoping that it would disengage by design if/when it fails, instead of locking up and most likely damaging other components while doing so. I'll keep my ear on it and disconnect it if I hear an increase in sound.
 
I've not wrenched on the air pump, but like to mention maybe a parallell in case it goes down; I had an AC compressor breakdown on my exLimited, where it fully seized. That means when the clutch engaged it released immediately due to the resistance in the locked up compressor. I always keep attention to strange noises in the car, so I was surprised when the AC mechanic told this and I hadn't noticed anything! But he said with an engine torque this high even at idle, it would hardly be noticeable, just a small dip in the idle before the clutch releases. So if the air pump breaks down/get seized, the clutch will release and no further harm occure - supposed the clutch and its bearing is fine.

I don't recall why I posted in this particular thread, but post #21 has images of the seized AC compressor:
 
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I've not wrenched on the air pump, but like to mention maybe a parallell in case it goes down; I had an AC compressor breakdown on my exLimited, where it fully seized. That means when the clutch engaged it released immediately due to the resistance in the locked up compressor. I always keep attention to strange noises in the car, so I was surprised when the AC mechanic told this and I hadn't noticed anything! But he said with an engine torque this high even at idle, it would hardly be noticeable, just a small dip in the idle before the clutch releases. So if the air pump breaks down/get seized, the clutch will release and no further harm occure - supposed the clutch and its bearing is fine.

I don't recall why I posted in this particular thread, but post #21 has images of the seized AC compressor:
I wouldn't call that a bearing-related sound, but from your experience stuff can hit the fan without a more noticeable sound as well I guess.. I hope you're right, and will keep an eye on it for now - should be easy enough to disconnect in case it gets worse 🤞
 
So, tonight the 500E left me stranded at the local grocery store. It hasn’t been used for a week or so, but still started up as if nothing had happened. I drove the 5kms/3mls to the store, did wonder why the steering wheel was vibrating slightly, but as I didn’t feel anything through the shifter I figured it was a bit of flatspotting on the front tires from parking the car with warm tires.

I did my shopping and started the car, again as it normally does, but after a few seconds it started sputtering and died suddenly. No amount of cranking would bring it back to life, the only sign of such were occasional loud bangs from the exhaust. I removed and inspected all plugs and connectors I could reach with no help, and messed around for a good hour before it finally «ran» again - although dying as soon as I shifted into D or touched the accelerator. Shortly after I was able to make it run well enough to shift into gear and limped home, while feeling the car becoming its own self again by the minute. When I was back home it idled as if nothing happened.

I removed the distributor cap on the right bank and found corrosion and moisture inside. Now, I’m sure the best advice would be to replace everything, but before doing so I wanted to hear if anyone has had good luck cleaning up these parts and using them for a while longer?
Yes, as GSXR said, this is the classic moisture in the caps problem. This is a living problem and I was badly punished on this many years ago:
That happening led me to cutting additional slots in the caps to improve ventilation. It was some headshaking around for doing that, but living in Morepay with cosmic parts pricing I had to do something. It worked out very well and some years later the same idea was introduced as the first walk on the moon by somone else.😊 However, all are happy and that's the best part. And even better, it's been proved that the caps can be used for years. It's no reason to panick from burnt contact points and green goo inside, just clean them up and put them back again. The rotors are a bit different having other wear points.
 
I just picked up a set of used caps for around 35USD, so I'll try to modify these and see how things go - if it hadn't been for all the encouragement and positive mentions of this mod here on the forum I would have joined the headshaking myself as well 😄
 
Yesterday I received the first batch of parts for the 500 - there will definitely be more batches, but I had to start somewhere. Generic parts like oil and brake fluid as well as filters has come in a long time ago, I just haven't had time to work on it yet..

So to what I got yesterday;
  • Flex disc repair kits + support bearing for the prop shaft; Hopefully this will take car of a bit of clonking when I go on/off the accelerator
  • New brake discs; I occasionally have a bit of vibration when braking hard, so when I found these discs from Brembo in the correct size and directional setup, I figured it was worth a try.
  • All new bushings for both sway bars; Also in pursuit to rid the car of minor clonking from the suspension.
  • New insulators; Figured it would be a good preventative replacement in combination with modifying the distributor caps. These came fitted with the gasket that I also got separately..
  • I asked my parts vendor for the clips that hold the sacco board on the front right fender on as this is a bit loose, and was told there are six different ones for it! Ordered some extra just in case..
IMG_2526.JPEG

As mentioned I am chasing come clonking that I hope to fix with the rubber on the prop shaft itself, but I will also try to source new engine mounts and transmission mount. There is also a bit of clonking from the steering which I need to sort out, as well as some rubbing from the contact rings for the steering wheel..
 
Sounds great! Let u sknow how it turns out.

I've noticed the drivetrain "clonking" when going on/off throttle on multiple different cars with the 722.3 transmission. I believe it's something internal to the transmission, not in the propshaft / differential / axle shafts.
 
Sounds great! Let u sknow how it turns out.

I've noticed the drivetrain "clonking" when going on/off throttle on multiple different cars with the 722.3 transmission. I believe it's something internal to the transmission, not in the propshaft / differential / axle shafts.
That's interesting. My 500E has an occasional distinctive "clunk" when applying the throttle - which I've always (without any scientific evidence) put down to a worn differential. It can be avoided by gentle opening of the throttle.
 
Sounds great! Let u sknow how it turns out.

I've noticed the drivetrain "clonking" when going on/off throttle on multiple different cars with the 722.3 transmission. I believe it's something internal to the transmission, not in the propshaft / differential / axle shafts.
Will do! I have good experience with the prop shaft rubbers on other cars, where I have also had to do the rear subframe mounts on some - hoping it won’t have to come to that though, but we’ll see..

In case you bought FEBI flex disks, can you check if they are reboxed SGF disks?? If so, where did you order?
I am also in need of a complete set of flex disks and want SGF.
That’s what I’m hoping as well - will inspect and let you know asap 👍
 
Oh, and I got them from MBenzNL in the Netherlands 👍
Aha, from Steve of course! So he is still in business, haven't checked his site for years, I have to take a look.
Many thanks! :thumbsup2:

BTW - I hope the 500E poster arrived without any shipping flaws, and was up to your expectations?
 
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Aha, from Steve of course! So he is still in business, haven't checked his site for years, I have to take a look.
Many thanks! :thumbsup2:

BTW - I hope the 500E poster arrived without any shipping flaws, and was up to your expectations?
He is very much in business still, although they are actually in Norway for vacation at the moment 😄 His website got poached a few years back, and as he wasn't interested in paying the ransom for it he now relies solely on word of mouth and the occasional FB-post (where he still has a page). In other words, you won't find his website any more, and the best way to contact them is through MBenzNL@gmail.com or a message on FB. I might be ordering more stuff from them in the near future though, so perhaps we should join forces and save on shipping if you need parts as well.

And when it comes to the poster I honestly haven't opened it yet - the packaging looked fine and thus I trust that the content is ok as well. It will either go on the wall in my soon-to-be-"finished" workshop in the barn or home office when I do finally get around to hanging it up. (y)
 
Thanks for the idea on parts purchase and bundle shipping, we should save some on that. I need quite some parts, mostly rubber based parts like the flex disks, shock tower mounts, cam chain rails, all kind of suspension bushings etc...

As for the poster - I wrapped the poster in plastic foil to keep it rolled up inside the box and for moist protection during shipping. But it shouldn't be stored with the plastic due to risk for condensation inside the package over time, dependent of where you are keeping it. So please take off one of the end covers on the box.:rugby:
 

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