What you describe sounds like "limp mode", where you have to press the gas pedal halfway down before the engine revs up or applies power... it also raises shift points. Is the ASR warning lamp on in the cluster? What happens when you blip the throttle while in Park, does it rev normally, or does it still require more pedal travel than normal?
Remove the passenger rear seat cushion to reveal the fuel pump relay. Start the engine. If the relay is clicking rapidly, your LH module is failing. The ticking may get quicker when you rev the engine, or may go away at either higher revs or as the car warms up. The relay is NOT faulty, the LH module is the root cause, if you indeed have this issue. No need to drive the car to test this, you can start it up and check while parked in the driveway.
You haven't mentioned if fuel pumps have been replaced or not. This MUST be checked, you can buy an inexpensive fuel pressure gauge at the local parts store and connect to the fuel rail port at the front/top of the engine. Low power could very well be dying fuel pumps. The rough idle is more likely to be ignition related but you've already replaced most of those parts.
Smelling gasoline is BAD. Cars have burned to the ground from fuel leaks. Find the leak and fix it! The most common part that leaks fuel is the high-pressure hose exiting the fuel filter under the rear of the car. It will only leak when the engine is running, but typically sprays a thin, high-pressure stream of gas. If this hose is old or original, it should be replaced as a safety item. DO NOT use aftermarket hoses, get the OE Mercedes hose, despite the $100+ cost. It's worth it, and will last another couple of decades. I've seen the aftermarket hoses fail within ~2 years.
There's nothing fuel-related under the air cleaner for $1500. The fuel pressure regulator is a possible issue but aftermarket Bosch is ~$35 plus shipping and takes less than 30 mins to replace. This is another item that should be replaced proactively if there's no record of it ever being done. It could possibly cause the low power issue.
I think the reference here is to the ETA, @gsxr. Not necessarily fuel related, but more relating to the lack of throttle response.
Yes - the mechanic may have been referring to the ETA, but if so, he would be wrong... based on this information. Even a bad ETA would rev the engine when floored, and a bad ETA cannot cause a rough idle:
Agree 100%. Error codes would be a good start. MBZGURL, you really need to check codes as described back in post #5. You can buy a code reader on eBay for ~$40 or so and there are instructions on the forum how to use it.
PHONE CALL” in both instances that I remember to this day. My ass still hurts
It's called an 'accelerator cable guide clip' (Mercedes Part #: A2023010093 _ $3.75 ) Is there a diagram showing how to put it back on?
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Everything is falling apart that is made of plastic. The windows don't work, the sunroof is going slow, little parts like the trunk pads, the hood pad, the clips on the headlight holders, etc. I really don't like living in the desert for that reason. An air conditioned garage is a must if you want anything to work and stay nice. Even the tires are wearing prematurely. Oh, and the leather seats, jeeezusss! My 5 layer UV protection car cover with a life time guarantee is 2 years old and cracking!mbzgurl,
Glad you found the problem. I’ve had that same issue in the past on my Euro 84 500SL and my long gone 86 300E. Unfortunately, (for me) in both instances, my Wife was driving the car. Both would start and idle normally but step on the throttle and NOTHING!! On the 500SL an approximately 1” round plastic ball disintegrated. Wife left / abandoned the car in the middle of a freeway off ramp in Anaheim.
The 300E almost the same part disintegrated. This time she had three other ladies with her (one a cancer patient that they were taking out to lunch) .
I received a “SMOKING
Both cars towed home. Problem diagnosed within about 1/2 hour of lifting the hood (bonnet to the Brits)
Both plastic parts under $5 and about a 1/2 hour to repair. But the pain still lingers.
NOTE to SELF >> CHECK the 500E!!
Better Yet, Just REPLACE the PART!!
Thanks for the infos. I couldn't figure out what they called them…rubber bump stops. That makes sense. I've cleaned and lubed the rails with slideeez. Windows are kinda complicated for me. I attached a picture of my throttle cable. I think the guy put it on wrong.Heat and sun are not kind to automobiles. Your windows should be fixable. The sunroof should speed up if you disassemble the top rails after opening it, then clean + lube with the factory Gleitpaste. But you should check to make sure none of the felt sliding pads are missing. Trunk rubber bump stops are easy to replace, but are expensive little buggers! Just replaced those on one of my cars...
Photos attached. Two each of 124-758-00-44-64 and 124-758-01-44, about $16 each discount from MB Naperville (free shipping).
If the front windows have issues, check if the plastic guide rail is intact (p/n 126-720-00-42, click here for a photo). This is a real hassle to replace but will cure clunking noises when the front windows roll up/down. If you need to replace this guide piece, only buy OE MB, the aftermarket ones do not fit properly. Definitely try to find a video showing how to replace this, it's NOT fun.
You aren't kidding they are a lot of money! Oh well, I'm used to it. Thanks for the tip. The windows are a problem. The front passenger side needs everything. It's being held up by a log. I have the window regulator and motor for it, I just keep putting it off because I tried putting the motor in and got frustrated. The front drivers side goes up until it starts making a chewing grinding winding noise and stops 3/4 of the way up. Then, I have to give it a lttle push to get it to go back down. The back passenger side was fine until 2 days ago I noticed it went down by it's self about 2 inches. The rear passenger side window was pushed beyond it's limit down inside the car by a dumb passenger wanting to rest his elbo there. Now the window button for that window does nothing. It's the heat. It's killing everything. And so is the gd dumb passenger, that's not all he broke! I probably should buy all the parts for all the windows and rebuild them all.
Came across this in my "deep parts" stash tonight while I was rooting around for the 500SEC EZL for JC. Guess this can join the ones I recently ordered with the new part number.
