OWNER EDMB500

[EDMB500]

Hello all

After recently viewing a Japanese import 1994 E500 in Bornite which I had checked out by a local specialist, I decided to take the opportunity and buy it. Currently it is back with the specialist to have another inspection and fix up the issues he spotted. It has 138,000 kms on the clock. I’ve had a report from Japan Car History Check so am confident with the mileage etc. Car has sat with a collector for 4 years and not driven, only maintained and started up etc.

As a side note, David from Japan Car History Check has been an absolute pleasure to deal with. Super fast and really helpful. Highly recommended.

I am by no means well versed in these cars, so I would really appreciate any pointers or help you feel like giving.

As background my father had an orange 230 when I was very young which I remember vaguely and then a 190E 2.0 which I adored and was eventually given when I turned 17 (still have it but in a different country and it’s been off the road for a long time). I never thought I’d own an E500 and feel extremely fortunate to be in a position to do so now. Ok enough of the sop.

My plan is to take care of all the necessary items identified. These include (anything not mentioned is assumed working, for now):

Shift leaver bush gone, lower control arm bushes perished, front sus shock buffers+mounts+cover boots perished, fuel pump high pressure hose hardened (possibly perished), steering/SLS hydraulic pump minor leak (repair kit available), sealing washers on another pump (?) needing replaced, AC compressor seized, steering linkage pump leaking, crank seal between engine and transmission minor leak and there is a REBUILT SHINSEI AUTO IND CO. sticker on the transmission

Fuel gauge not working, headlamp knob needs replacing, interior light not really working

Very bad shudder above 60kmph (currently sitting on 5 year old tyres - potential flat spot) or wheel balancing or wheels themselves having an issue, steering alignment is off

I’ve read about replacing the plastic cam oilers, chain guides, valve lifters as preventative maintenance, and checking timing chain for stretch, but what other ‘things’ should I consider straight away? (Other than regular fluids change etc)

Previous owner recommended I get the fans wired to engage at 85deg - We live in a rather hot harsh environment. And to also have all hoses etc checked and replaced

I would like to have this as a mainly weekend driver but I can see it becoming a daily.......

I’ll get some photos posted when I can take them, or, as they say, it never happened

Looking forward to charting the journey here, whatever that may bring

Thanks everyone

 

[gsxr]

Congratulations on the purchase!

Replacing plastic oil tubes with metal is nice, but low priority if there is no lifter tick. No need to replace the lifters. During the oil change, drop the lower pan and inspect for rail debris. If there is any debris, pull both valve covers and inspect / replace top chain rails as necessary. While the oil pan is off, replace the O-ring at the oil level sender in the side of the block (or, replace the sending unit, which comes with a new O-ring). If the rubber sump pickup is the old/small design it's probably fossilized, replace with the new/later style which will be soft rubber.

The FRONT crank seal is a common leak point for engine oil, but the REAR seal is not. Verify what is leaking between engine/trans... engine oil, or ATF? Any leak here requires pulling the transmission to fix, and while the trans is out, it should get an external re-seal unless you have documentation that the trans rebuild was very recent.

When the cooling system is in top condition there is no need for wiring the electric fans to run all the time. It's also normal for these engines to run up to ~100°C in high ambient temps, you will never be able to keep it running at 85°C in 100F+ ambients. Lots of old threads on this topic, don't try to fix a problem that doesn't exist. However, temps over 105°C are generally not normal, so if you see that something may be wrong. If the plastic coolant reservoir is old/yellow, replace it on principle along with a new OE/OEM level sensor and new Reutter cap. New OE/OEM t-stat as well. The OE fan clutches are known for engaging late, so if it runs hotter than normal, verify if the fan is roaring. Search the forum, there are several threads which discuss this in detail. New OE clutches are a crapshoot so you can't just throw on a new Sachs/Horton and expect the problem to be fixed. Aftermarket clutches are also a gamble, most are engaged almost constantly (annoying) and some do not disengage at high RPM like they should. Worry about that later. Oh, make sure the electric fans work normally... low speed only runs based on AC refrigerant pressure (after you fix the AC) and high speed only turns on when engine temp exceeds 107°C.

 

[MB V8]

Congrats! Didn't take you long to decide. Sounds like you got a good car.

In regards to the shudder above 60kmph, if you decide to replace the tires, these cars drive and handle really well on Michelins.

 

[Dunnik]

Welcome and congrats!

 

[EDMB500]

Congratulations on the purchase!

Replacing plastic oil tubes with metal is nice, but low priority if there is no lifter tick. No need to replace the lifters. During the oil change, drop the lower pan and inspect for rail debris. If there is any debris, pull both valve covers and inspect / replace top chain rails as necessary. While the oil pan is off, replace the O-ring at the oil level sender in the side of the block (or, replace the sending unit, which comes with a new O-ring). If the rubber sump pickup is the old/small design it's probably fossilized, replace with the new/later style which will be soft rubber.

The FRONT crank seal is a common leak point for engine oil, but the REAR seal is not. Verify what is leaking between engine/trans... engine oil, or ATF? Any leak here requires pulling the transmission to fix, and while the trans is out, it should get an external re-seal unless you have documentation that the trans rebuild was very recent.

When the cooling system is in top condition there is no need for wiring the electric fans to run all the time. It's also normal for these engines to run up to ~100°C in high ambient temps, you will never be able to keep it running at 85°C in 100F+ ambients. Lots of old threads on this topic, don't try to fix a problem that doesn't exist. However, temps over 105°C are generally not normal, so if you see that something may be wrong. If the plastic coolant reservoir is old/yellow, replace it on principle along with a new OE/OEM level sensor and new Reutter cap. New OE/OEM t-stat as well. The OE fan clutches are known for engaging late, so if it runs hotter than normal, verify if the fan is roaring. Search the forum, there are several threads which discuss this in detail. New OE clutches are a crapshoot so you can't just throw on a new Sachs/Horton and expect the problem to be fixed. Aftermarket clutches are also a gamble, most are engaged almost constantly (annoying) and some do not disengage at high RPM like they should. Worry about that later. Oh, make sure the electric fans work normally... low speed only runs based on AC refrigerant pressure (after you fix the AC) and high speed only turns on when engine temp exceeds 107°C.

thank you gsxr, I really appreciate all of your time and help. I will chat all this through with the mechanic and post up the work done etc as we go. Think I have quite a learning curve ahead of me

 

[EDMB500]

Congrats! Didn't take you long to decide. Sounds like you got a good car.

In regards to the shudder above 60kmph, if you decide to replace the tires, these cars drive and handle really well on Michelins.

Thank you. To be honest, it is quite a big deal for me to buy it, but I just figured the car seemed right and the specialist thought it was a good one - plus, with those flared wheel arches and overall general badness, the appeal of this car is overwhelming - how could I resist.

Tyres will be changed; in the UAE tyres generally have to be under three years old to get your yearly inspection pass. The heat here tends to make tyres crack between the treads even if the walls look brand. I’ll look into the Michelins, thanks very much

 

[EDMB500]

Welcome and congrats!

thank you Dunnik

 

[outrbnks]

ブラックベリーメタリックは新しいブラック
Офигеть! борнитовый бомба
Bornitenfieber in der Wüste
Nous aimons Bornite
Los estadounidenses lo llaman Blackberry Metallic
من كان يظن أن البورنيت سيكون هذا الشعبية

Oh Yea -- Bornite Fever is very contagious..

Seriously, congratulations, and start looking for RHT lense and reflectors.. Good luck

 

[EDMB500]

ブラックベリーメタリックは新しいブラック
Офигеть! борнитовый бомба
Bornitenfieber in der Wüste
Nous aimons Bornite
Los estadounidenses lo llaman Blackberry Metallic
من كان يظن أن البورنيت سيكون هذا الشعبية

Oh Yea -- Bornite Fever is very contagious..

Seriously, congratulations, and start looking for RHT lense and reflectors.. Good luck

Thanks bud. I think it might be an interesting journey!

 

[r44raven]

Welcome to your ownership of an E500, and also to the 500Eboard! You'll find everything you need to know on this site!

But ......... am I missing something? Am I being inhospitable when I say, (as Gerryvz would point out), "if there's no pics, it didn't happen!".

(P.S. about your vibration, if it's still there after fitment of new tyres/balancing etc., shoot me a PM. Fortunately, I've now forgotten how long it me to solve a vibration problem in my 500E. It gave me sleepless nights! As a result, I've got lots of suggestions on what you might do to try and cure it!).

S

 

[gerryvz]

Am I being inhospitable when I say, (as Gerryvz would point out), "if there's no pics, it didn't happen!".

Er, I think that's more of a @nocfn saying. It came from the Banzworld W126 forum, and was a favorite of the now-deceased @cascade and his close friends.

 

[r44raven]

OK - got that! But I think whoever's its attributable to, its great!

Will it produce the goods this time around?

S

 

[EDMB500]

OK - got that! But I think whoever's its attributable to, its great!

Will it produce the goods this time around?

S

totally agree - evidence is needed! Both for you guys and for me as it doesn’t seem quite real yet - I guess when I pay that first repair bill it will do!

The car is currently with the mechanic who did the initial inspection for him to fix up the leaks etc., I mentioned above. I’ll get some photos posted as soon as possible!

Thank you very much for offering your expertise on the vibration issue, I will drop you a line

 

[outrbnks]

I've heard that expression for years among old time fishermen, "the one that got away" is nothing but an entertaining story over a drink...

So, in order to "feed the beast", (as we say at the airport, about status data to feed headquarters), a couple of new pic's are probably overdue

 

[EDMB500]

So I went for a drive to the specialist today, about 1.5hrs away, just for you guys (ok, maybe a little bit for myself also) to have some photos. Excuse the background, I’ve painted out some of them as I don’t wish to inadvertently include people etc who may not wish to be shown.

ive discovered the following:

wiring harness - dated 2003; specialist pointed out the wiring that routes and connects roughly behind the oil dipstick was perfect (apologies can not describe better, maybe one day, but included photo as way of explanation) - he said this is also a good indicator of the general wiring harness condition. the coolant tank is new.

he is doing full inspection tomorrow again and will give me the list of works and quotation.

 

[gsxr]

Looks great! The upper engine harness (to the injectors, etc) is definitely OK.

The lower harness, which goes down the back of the engine near the transmission dipstick tube, is the only other harness to worry about. This should be inspected behind the alternator, if insulation is flaking off, it will eventually need replacement (assuming the oil pressure/sender is working normally, these wires are included in that harness).

 

[EDMB500]

The lower harness, which goes down the back of the engine near the transmission dipstick tube, is the only other harness to worry about. This should be inspected behind the alternator, if insulation is flaking off, it will eventually need replacement (assuming the oil pressure/sender is working normally, these wires are included in that harness).

Thanks gsxr. I’ll make sure the mech checks the lower harness also
Very much Appreciate the pointers

With the 132k kms on the clock he is checking the timing belt, guide, cam oilers etc also

 

[TerryA]

ED,

Welcome to our board!!

Thank you for taking the time to get us a few pics.

NOW you are officially a “Newbie Member”

Many members here in the US would love to have a Bornite/Black E500E. With only 86K miles on the clock you should not have to many issues to deal with other than a lot of hardened old rubber parts and a few leaks just from age.

Once you get it back in your hands it should shine up real pretty and be very dependable.

My 93 500E had 87K miles on it when I bought it 15 years ago. I now have run it up to 142K trouble free miles. I am only now in the process of renewing the engine hoses and valve cover gaskets. I also will be installing the aluminum oiler tubes and the new upper harness that I purchased 14 years ago.

The 124 036 E500E is pretty “BULLETPROOF” unless it was abused by the previous Owner. Your car with only 86K miles on it has a long life ahead.

Sooooo, what I’m saying to you is. Do the obvious fixes required to get your car dependable and back on the road. Drive it awhile before you start throwing all sorts of parts at it that you may or may not need.

Anyway, I’ve rambled on long enough.

Enjoy your new ride. I will look forward to more posts and pics.

Take Care

 

[EDMB500]

ED,

Welcome to our board!!

Thank you for taking the time to get us a few pics.

NOW you are officially a “Newbie Member”

Many members here in the US would love to have a Bornite/Black E500E. With only 86K miles on the clock you should not have to many issues to deal with other than a lot of hardened old rubber parts and a few leaks just from age.

Once you get it back in your hands it should shine up real pretty and be very dependable.

My 93 500E had 87K miles on it when I bought it 15 years ago. I now have run it up to 142K trouble free miles. I am only now in the process of renewing the engine hoses and valve cover gaskets. I also will be installing the aluminum oiler tubes and the new upper harness that I purchased 14 years ago.

The 124 036 E500E is pretty “BULLETPROOF” unless it was abused by the previous Owner. Your car with only 86K miles on it has a long life ahead.

Sooooo, what I’m saying to you is. Do the obvious fixes required to get your car dependable and back on the road. Drive it awhile before you start throwing all sorts of parts at it that you may or may not need.

Anyway, I’ve rambled on long enough.

Enjoy your new ride. I will look forward to more posts and pics.

Take Care

Thanks Terry. Definitely have the same mindset as you. I asked the mech today to make the car ‘right’ so it is ready for use and will handle the occasional heavy right foot. They also seem on the same page which is reassuring. I need to make sure it is reliable first and foremost, and spend some time just learning the car.

15 years ownership must have been good fun!

 

[r44raven]

I know I asked for some pics, but now I'm almost regretting it! For me, that Bornite is just awesome ...... I am so jealous!

 

[outrbnks]

Hey Ed,
Thanks for posting the pictures, and sorry you have to travel so far to find a good Indi shop. Best of luck with your new Bornite 500E, we are a very small group. According to the build numbers posted on this forum, only 8 Bornite E500E's were sold in the US, and my import made it 9 that I know of. No idea of the status of the original 8 Bornite cars here in the US, and I think you and I are the only 500Eboard members with this color.

Anyway, I'm going to attach a video and some pictures about your headlights, which are LHT from the factory. Unless your moving to a left hand traffic country like the UK, Australia, Japan or New Zealand, you'll need to consider converting your headlights to RHT.

Basically the headlights can be taken apart and the large reflectors and lens can be swapped from LHT to RHT, (assuming you can find the parts.)
The one picture you posted of the passenger side headlight shows that it is the original LHT lenses, and reflector.

I purchased my new RHT lens and reflectors from Germany 2 years ago when they where still available new. I recently inquired from the same source and was told they are no longer available. But I've seen posts saying there could be another production run of facelift E500 headlights in the future for complete facelift headlight units, we'll see. If I recal correctly, I don't think you can buy replacement E500 Facelift lens. Anyway, the invoice shows where I got my parts, the lens p/n's are wrong for you, but the RHT reflectors are the same p/n.

Video explaining the lens and reflector here

 

[gsxr]

FYI - last I heard, E500 lenses are available now (?), 500E lenses MAY be available soon. Contact Tom Hanson at MB Classic Center in SoCal if you want the latest scoop.

I have not heard anything (yet) about complete E500E headlight assemblies going back into production, only lenses.

 

[northNH]

E500 lenses available now? From who/where? Non-USA supplier?
I’ve tried twice to order them (mboem, etc) since noted here “newly available” several weeks ago.
Came back “Discontinued...” x 2.

I still have an almost new virtually perfect Euro 500E headlight set and would like to swap just the lenses for a like E500 lens set...
Or, I would sell the early one’s if I could find a late pair to buy...

 

[outrbnks]

FYI - last I heard, E500 lenses are available now (?), 500E lenses MAY be available soon.

I have not heard anything (yet) about complete E500E headlight assemblies going back into production, only lenses.

Last month I emailed Speed Autoteile and asked about both Pre Face & Face Lift lens and Facelift complete units, they had no sources or knowledge that they would go back into production. I'm looking on the new EPC at the P/N's for headlights for a 94, and there are so many numbers, it's hard to tell whats the latest. Using a 1994 vin I found on Autotrader, the headlight picture shows what appears to be pre-face Euro units, and the unit and lens are both labled #6, confusing with a page full of #6; As PF would say"Which is Which & Who is Who".

 

[gsxr]

E500 lenses available now? From who/where? Non-USA supplier? I’ve tried twice to order them (mboem, etc) since noted here “newly available” several weeks ago. Came back “Discontinued...” x 2.

Try emailing Tom Hanson directly at MBCC. Most vendors will not know about availability for a while. It's also possible the production run is still in progress and they are not yet available for order. My understanding is he can get the E500 lenses, but if not, I'd like to get that cleared up!

I'm looking on the new EPC at the P/N's for headlights for a 94, and there are so many numbers, it's hard to tell whats the latest.

There are different lenses pre/post facelift, and RHT/LHT. Link below to PDF file with all of the part numbers for lights & lenses, all for RHT (USA/Europe). I didn't bother adding all the LHT stuff since that only applies to UK/Japan and a handful of other countries. For E500 facelift RHT lenses it would be 124-820-57-66 and 124-820-58-66.

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/124_headlights.pdf

 

[EDMB500]

I know I asked for some pics, but now I'm almost regretting it! For me, that Bornite is just awesome ...... I am so jealous!

thanks very much raven. Hopefully get it on the road early January and I’ll get some more photos up

Hey Ed,
Thanks for posting the pictures, and sorry you have to travel so far to find a good Indi shop. Best of luck with your new Bornite 500E, we are a very small group. According to the build numbers posted on this forum, only 8 Bornite E500E's were sold in the US, and my import made it 9 that I know of. No idea of the status of the original 8 Bornite cars here in the US, and I think you and I are the only 500Eboard members with this color.

Anyway, I'm going to attach a video and some pictures about your headlights, which are LHT from the factory. Unless your moving to a left hand traffic country like the UK, Australia, Japan or New Zealand, you'll need to consider converting your headlights to RHT.

Basically the headlights can be taken apart and the large reflectors and lens can be swapped from LHT to RHT, (assuming you can find the parts.)
The one picture you posted of the passenger side headlight shows that it is the original LHT lenses, and reflector.

nice one, thank you very much for all of that information. The knowledge you and others have is amazing. Thanks to everyone for sharing it.

the previous owner has known and worked with the independent for around 25 years; they are exclusively MB and have a very good reputation locally. as a reward for the 3 hours driving I got to see some fairly rare models so it was good fun

 

[outrbnks]

Dave, Thanks for the link, I forgotten about it, it's spot on....

 

[EDMB500]

Guys, I’ve had the quote from the specialist.

If you could help me understand a bit more of the mechanics that would be appreciated.

For the timing chain and tensioner change, the following is listed, quantities in brackets:
Timing chain OEM (1)
Chain Tensioner OEM (1)
Sliding rail (3)
Rail locks (2)
Rail left (1)
Rail right (1)
Main rail (1)
Valve cover gasket kit (2)
Ventilation hoses (1)
Oil pressure lines (16) - I believe this is the camshaft oilers, need to ask him

Does this sound like he would be replacing all of the rails, both upper and lower? Or are these just the upper? I was reading that the lower is a more involved job and usually don’t need replacing. I feel that if they are already in there they might as well replace them rather than tear down again.

I don’t know if the chain needs replacing. It’s a small cost of the above figure. I want to have the rails done for peace of mind and thinking might as well have the chain and tensioner done as preventative maintenance. I don’t want to waste money obviously either.

cost USD $1350 for all of the above

AC compressor (Denso), tensioner, dryer, expansion value and flushing plus associated works USD $930

Front shock mounts, boots and buffers USD $460

Hydraulic/Steering Pump seal kit, filter, hose USD $385

all prices include labour

sound about right?

 

[e500.org]

Welcome to the forum! I know this car very well, indeed it sat in Tahnoon's garage, unused for many years. Are you based in Dubai? If so, it would be great to meet up, however I am now in a W204 C63 as my W124 500E was sold and sent to the UK to a friend. I am not sure where you are getting the work done but I would highly recommend Gulf Performance in Ajman, they do wonders with engine work, you'll have to check if he will take this car on as he is well versed with the newer stuff.

I did have a good look at this car when Tahnoon first bought it in Japan, lovely example! Facelift in Bornite is particularly rare!

P.s. I would highly recommend getting a proper garage to do the work on these cars, they are very sensitive and need the right care and attention, particularly when it comes to engine work. As you know there are many cowboys in Dubai that have screwed up many engines!

 

[EDMB500]

Welcome to the forum! I know this car very well, indeed it sat in Tahnoon's garage, unused for many years. Are you based in Dubai? If so, it would be great to meet up, however I am now in a W204 C63 as my W124 500E was sold and sent to the UK to a friend. I am not sure where you are getting the work done but I would highly recommend Gulf Performance in Ajman, they do wonders with engine work, you'll have to check if he will take this car on as he is well versed with the newer stuff.

I did have a good look at this car when Tahnoon first bought it in Japan, lovely example! Facelift in Bornite is particularly rare!

P.s. I would highly recommend getting a proper garage to do the work on these cars, they are very sensitive and need the right care and attention, particularly when it comes to engine work. As you know there are many cowboys in Dubai that have screwed up many engines!

wow. Small world!!

Having met Tahnoun only recently he has been a great guy to get to know. His collection and passion for these is amazing.

I’ll drop you a PM

 

[gsxr]

That sounds like upper chain rails only. 99% of the time, that is fine, as the lower rails rarely wear out or need replacement. There are 2 lower rails, 1 can be changed without pulling the timing cover, the other requires timing cover R&R (huge job). Ideally he would measure chain stretch before and after. Search the forum, this has been discussed in detail several times.

Yes, 16 "oil pressure lines" is the cam oiler tubes. But make sure that he's not just installing new plastic ones.

Overall the prices seem quite reasonable, the same work in USA would generally cost substantially more. I'd make sure the front crank seal is bone dry. I've had to replace that on pretty much every single one of my M119's. Maybe it was already done by the PO.

 

[EDMB500]

That sounds like upper chain rails only. 99% of the time, that is fine, as the lower rails rarely wear out or need replacement. There are 2 lower rails, 1 can be changed without pulling the timing cover, the other requires timing cover R&R (huge job). Ideally he would measure chain stretch before and after. Search the forum, this has been discussed in detail several times.

Yes, 16 "oil pressure lines" is the cam oiler tubes. But make sure that he's not just installing new plastic ones.

Overall the prices seem quite reasonable, the same work in USA would generally cost substantially more. I'd make sure the front crank seal is bone dry. I've had to replace that on pretty much every single one of my M119's. Maybe it was already done by the PO.

thanks again for all the advice, really appreciated

It is upper rails only.

the mech is gonna pull the covers and check the rails, chain etc. He is on the same page regarding only necessary works. the quotation is covering everything but not everything may be required.

I’ll update once compete.

 

[EDMB500]

So with 2020 being the year it has been, coupled with the Dubai summer where temps are generally above 120F, the work was completed on the car minus the cam oilers and then babied through the heat with a few drives here and there. Now that the weather has improved the engine started ticking from the passenger side so with the advice from the guys here and the unbelievably helpful HOW TO from Gerry I removed the valve cover and found the culprit. One of the tubes blew its end. I’m in the process of trying to buy a set of aluminium ones and will do the replacement as soon as that is sorted.

I just noticed a leak from the power steering reservoir and so will investigate this also. I read some previous advice from GSXR that it may be engine oil from the solenoid but I’m pretty sure it’s from the reservoir. Is this likely to be a gasket/seal that’s gone? I’ll need to do some reading on removal etc

Then it’s onto replacing the blower motor once that arrives and getting the wiper motor going which hopefully is just a case of strip and lube........

A little bit of Tool accompanied today’s work

 

[Kyiv]

The leak is probably from the short hose from reservoir to the pump. Apparently, that's the most common leaking point

 

[gerryvz]

The solenoid leakage is ENGINE oil. The reservoir/short hose leaking is power steering fluid. Generally the reservoir will seep from the short hose when the engine is off or on. You can always tell the PS leakage by the level of the fluid going down in the reservoir.

There is a fair amount of information about the short hose leaking power steering fluid from the reservoir -- whether the engine is running or not. It is the case of about 80% of all power steering fluid leaks.

I just wrote about it the other day. Look here: RESTO PROJECT: M119 / W124 / E500 Engine Top-End Refresh | Member Roadtrips and Project Journals

You very well may be able to solve the leak by just tightening the two ring clamps at each end of the short hose. This doesn't require removing or disassembling anything. However, it can be difficult/challenging to get a 7mm socket or wrench down there to tighten those clamps. It helps to have a "wobbly" extension on your socket, or to use a "wobbly" socket.

 

[EDMB500]

Seriously. I love you guys

 

[EDMB500]

Happy new year all

it’s been somewhat frustrating getting the few jobs done on the car this past few months. Ordered new blower, control arms, and so on from autohausaz back at start of October which seemed fine, they did take over a week to get it packed and shipped which I thought excessive, until USPS lost my delivery. Autohaus were useless in helping, told me I had to wait 32 days for USPS to do their investigation and only after that would they discuss the matter. So 6 weeks pass and suddenly the delivery shows up, with a big hole in the side. Doing an inventory check I find 5 things missing. All small packets which must have fallen out the hole. Key item was the crush washers for the cam covers so that delayed that job another 2 or so weeks until autohaus sent replacements.

anyway, blower and regulator have been replaced with genuine and we installed the genuine mercedes aluminium cam oilers in place of the plastic ones (one of which had blown its end). A side note was it took two weeks to get the mercedes o rings for the cam oilers as autohaus had no stock, no local garage had any and so had to get them from Germany. Got to love getting parts for these old cars

fuel sender was removed and cleaned up as it was intermittent/jerky. Resistance wire was resoldered and now seems perfect.

still to do front lower control arms and replace oil pressure sender and a few other small things

I need some pointers on the following though please. The wiper does not work from the column control stalk in any position. I’ve removed the complete wiper assembly, put 12v to it and the motor and assembly runs perfect - no broken plastic gear cogs etc, all perfect. The 12v to the plug which attaches to the wiper motor also seems ok. The high beam flash (pull stalk towards you) does not operate the headlight high beam flash but clicking the stalk away from you to put the high beams on permanently works fine. Turn signals work perfectly. Does the fact that two things on the stalk are not working indicate its a stalk problem or is it more likely the turn signal/wiper relay which has gone bad? If you can give any experience/opinions prior to me me pulling apart the steering column that would be appreciated. I’ll order a relay anyway I think as it will take some weeks to get here if my previous experience is anything to go by.

but what a joy to be driving her again. Did a day tour of the Emirates. The weather is now amazing. Love this car

 

[northNH]

I recently replaced a column control stalk that only the high beam flash function had failed.
Parts car replacement, now right as rain.
With power to the wiper plug and no flash I bet your wiper problem is also with contacts inside the stalk.
Some day I’m going to take apart that switch and fix it as I suspect failures are trivial to repair once inside...

 

[EDMB500]

I recently replaced a column control stalk that only the high beam flash function had failed.
Parts car replacement, now right as rain.
With power to the wiper plug and no flash I bet your wiper problem is also with contacts inside the stalk.
Some day I’m going to take apart that switch and fix it as I suspect failures are trivial to repair once inside...

This is what I am thinking also

thanks, I’ll give it a go

 

[Kyiv]

@RicardoD had a similar problem (I think) with a resolution:

High beams ON, Left Turn Signal On --> Headlights then go dark ??? | Electrical, CAN and Wiring

Anybody run into this? Headlights ON, High Beams On, and then active your Left Turn Signal and all headlights go DARK. Doesn't happen if I activate right turn signal. If I exit Left Turn Signal all headlights / high beams come back on. Scares the crap out of me when this happens. Is this...

www.500eboard.co

And a How-to:

HOW-TO: Replace Combination Switch - 94 E500 (turn signal lever) | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

HOW-TO: Replace Combination Switch (turn signal lever) on a 1994 E500. - I believe prior years are very similar but have a contact ring and not a contact spiral as on the 1994 E500 models. Parts Needed: 1245402044 ($120 as of March 2020) Special tools needed: - Torx T-30 screwdriver or a...

www.500eboard.co

 

[a777fan]

Amazing looking vehicle!

Also beautiful on the inside as well. I love how clean your valvetrain is!

 

[gerryvz]

Hey Eazy,

Congrats on all the work !!

Sounds to me like your turn signal / multifunction stalk is bad. They are available both from MB and as OEM aftermarket replacements. Not too horrible to replace. I've done one on an E320 in the past. Just be sure to get the correct part number, as there are several variants.

Also, in addition to AutohauZ, you also may want to check out FCP Euro and/or RM European as alternative parts vendors. You can comparison shop between all three vendors and often get better deals. Here are their policies below, from their web sites. Looks like they both do ship internationally. Always good to have alternatives!!

Cheers,
Gerry


FCP Euro:



RM European:

 

[RicardoD]

Ah yes, one my last How-To write ups where that spool of flex connection exploded onto my lap. I did end up just tossing the old stalk and not breaking it open to see what had failed inside. But my new stalk feels so crisp and correct as does my headlight switch!

 

[EDMB500]

Hey Eazy,

Congrats on all the work !!

Sounds to me like your turn signal / multifunction stalk is bad. They are available both from MB and as OEM aftermarket replacements. Not too horrible to replace. I've done one on an E320 in the past. Just be sure to get the correct part number, as there are several variants.

Also, in addition to AutohauZ, you also may want to check out FCP Euro and/or RM European as alternative parts vendors. You can comparison shop between all three vendors and often get better deals. Here are their policies below, from their web sites. Looks like they both do ship internationally. Always good to have alternatives!!

Cheers,
Gerry


FCP Euro:
View attachment 121914


RM European:
View attachment 121915

Thank you very much Gerry, really appreciated.
That stalk will hopefully be pulled apart this coming Friday (first day of our weekend here) to see what has gone awry.

 

[EDMB500]

@RicardoD had a similar problem (I think) with a resolution:

High beams ON, Left Turn Signal On --> Headlights then go dark ??? | Electrical, CAN and Wiring

Anybody run into this? Headlights ON, High Beams On, and then active your Left Turn Signal and all headlights go DARK. Doesn't happen if I activate right turn signal. If I exit Left Turn Signal all headlights / high beams come back on. Scares the crap out of me when this happens. Is this...

www.500eboard.co

And a How-to:

HOW-TO: Replace Combination Switch - 94 E500 (turn signal lever) | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

HOW-TO: Replace Combination Switch (turn signal lever) on a 1994 E500. - I believe prior years are very similar but have a contact ring and not a contact spiral as on the 1994 E500 models. Parts Needed: 1245402044 ($120 as of March 2020) Special tools needed: - Torx T-30 screwdriver or a...

www.500eboard.co

Well, today was all set to get the stalk out and see what is up with it. Unfortunately, I couldn’t break the seal on the 10mm allen with my breaker bar so I am going to have to go buy an impact wrench. That thing is on there tight, looks like it’s never been off.
Thanks to Kiev for linking to the how to’s and thanks to Ricardo for doing them in the first place; really detailed and helpful

 

[gerryvz]

An impact wrench will take care of that 10mm Allen.

Or if you can get a second person to hold the wheel steady (so it's not wedged against the steering wheel lock), you can break the seal with a long socket handle (or put a short length of pipe on it).

 

[EDMB500]

An impact wrench will take care of that 10mm Allen.

Or if you can get a second person to hold the wheel steady (so it's not wedged against the steering wheel lock), you can break the seal with a long socket handle (or put a short length of pipe on it).Gerry

Hi Gerry
First time round my dad held the wheel and I had the breaker bar with a very long extension. No joy. No way was it moving.
Second time I held the wheel and he did the breaker bar. Not a bloody hope!
It’s not often that things get the better of us when it comes to physical strength but today these two Scots were defeated by the might of the German marque

 

[a777fan]

Yikes!

Sounds like you are doing it the right way. You definetely don’t want to use the steering wheel lock to ‘hold’ the wheel. You can snap the lock this way.
Best of luck!

 

[EDMB500]

So, had to buy an impact wrench. And finally got that bolt out - that blue locktite was doing it’s job a little too well

has anyone a diagrammatic for the combo switch pins which shows which pin is responsible for what function? Each is numbered, but without the key I don’t know what’s what

 

[gerryvz]

Glad to hear you got it! Looking forward to further updates !