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WANTED 1992 passenger side fog light assembly
- Thread starter dbb7697
- Start date
$150 each brand new from AutohausAZ, for a complete light assembly; 129-820-01-56 left, 129-820-02-56 right.
$70 each brand new for just the lenses, 003-826-35-90 left, 003-826-36-90 right.
Quite often some part of the light itself is broken or damaged after years of use, so unless you are 100% sure the lights are intact and only the lens is cracked, I'd shell out for new lights. Then apply 40 mil Lamin-X film on the glass to help them last longer.
$70 each brand new for just the lenses, 003-826-35-90 left, 003-826-36-90 right.
Quite often some part of the light itself is broken or damaged after years of use, so unless you are 100% sure the lights are intact and only the lens is cracked, I'd shell out for new lights. Then apply 40 mil Lamin-X film on the glass to help them last longer.
Good question. I believe the bumper has to be removed... but it's been years since I've messed with these, and I can't remember exactly. It's a medium DIY if you don't mind the idea of pulling the bumper. A dozen or so screws & nuts and it slides straight out (remember to disconnect the wires first!).dbb7697 said:
No, to replace the fog light and/or lens you just have to remove the inside-the-wheel-well cladding, NOT the bumper, to make the job much easier. You get at it from behind.
It's a light DIY job but just has a tedium factor because you have to remove that cladding under the car, which is a moderate pain. It's MUCH easier when the corner of the car is jacked up to give you more room underneath to work on it. If you REALLY want to make things easier to work on, remove that corner's wheel.
If you jack it up, BE SURE to use a jack-stand or two to keep it safe and secure.
Cheers,
Gerry
It's a light DIY job but just has a tedium factor because you have to remove that cladding under the car, which is a moderate pain. It's MUCH easier when the corner of the car is jacked up to give you more room underneath to work on it. If you REALLY want to make things easier to work on, remove that corner's wheel.
If you jack it up, BE SURE to use a jack-stand or two to keep it safe and secure.
Cheers,
Gerry
The bumper does not have to be removed.
1. Lift the car front end off the ground high enough to get underneath the bumper-mounted foglight.
2. Unscrew enough inner fender-well panel nuts off so you can pull the panel away from the bumper (this will give you access to the fog light & it mounting screws).
3. Three slotted hex screws (either 6 or 8mm) fasten the foglight to its mounting bracket (you can open the inner fender panel's foglight access door-panel for additional angles of attack if necessary).
4. The wiring harness helps keep the light assembly from dropping to the floor. Before disconnecting, determine whether your light works or not. Disconnect the plug & remove foglight assembly for servicing. Shake the housing to determine if broken parts reside inside the housing.
5. The lens is held on to each side of the light housing by snap-on wings. CAREFULLY detach them with trim-fitting pry bar, large blade screwdriver or equivalent.
6. The bulb can be accessed by removing the housing's triangular end cover. Pry its wire holder up & away.
7. Reverse procedure for reassembly.
1. Lift the car front end off the ground high enough to get underneath the bumper-mounted foglight.
2. Unscrew enough inner fender-well panel nuts off so you can pull the panel away from the bumper (this will give you access to the fog light & it mounting screws).
3. Three slotted hex screws (either 6 or 8mm) fasten the foglight to its mounting bracket (you can open the inner fender panel's foglight access door-panel for additional angles of attack if necessary).
4. The wiring harness helps keep the light assembly from dropping to the floor. Before disconnecting, determine whether your light works or not. Disconnect the plug & remove foglight assembly for servicing. Shake the housing to determine if broken parts reside inside the housing.
5. The lens is held on to each side of the light housing by snap-on wings. CAREFULLY detach them with trim-fitting pry bar, large blade screwdriver or equivalent.
6. The bulb can be accessed by removing the housing's triangular end cover. Pry its wire holder up & away.
7. Reverse procedure for reassembly.
To me , removing other stuff (the bumper and/or fender liner) is more of a PITA (IMO) , especially when there are little doors right under the lites to access them ! That's why they are there, right?...to change the bulbs...but once you take the rear cover off the attachment points are right there and easy to get at.
I failed to mention it took a few weeks for my knuckles to heal though. No biggy, my days as a hand model are over now.
I failed to mention it took a few weeks for my knuckles to heal though. No biggy, my days as a hand model are over now.
He did say that...I was just saying that I changed out the whole assemblies thru the doors; the doors ARE for changing the bulbs, yes, but once the back cover is off the lights, all the nuts and bolts of it are right there for removal...as you know.
I now use a 5 foot, 100 pound Asian guy with little girl hands to do the 'tough on the hands' stuff....especially since the RS6s motor bay makes the 500Es look spacious. My paws are indeed back to being buttery soft like a surgeon.
I now use a 5 foot, 100 pound Asian guy with little girl hands to do the 'tough on the hands' stuff....especially since the RS6s motor bay makes the 500Es look spacious. My paws are indeed back to being buttery soft like a surgeon.
I resurrected this thread as I was searching for the best way to replace a burnt out fog lamp bulb. Aside from removing the back covers do I need to remove anything else? I removed the back covers and I see how the bulb is mounted by way a a spring clip. I had trouble unclipping the bulb in that tight space. Is there a trick?
