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SOLD 1993 500E, Pearl Black/Black, 107kmi, Hibid.com (Dallas, TX)

gerryvz

Site Honcho
Staff member
This listing reported courtesy of 500Eboard member, @sstiles630.


VIN = WDBEA36E0PB880251

Data Card = Mercedes VIN Decoder | Decode Your Mercedes-Benz VIN


1993 Mercedes Benz 500 E, 107,000 miles, Vin #WDBEA36E0PB880251, 5.0L 32 valve V8, 4 spd auto, leather interior, sunroof& new battery installed. Runs and drives with popping sound (unknown origin) from front end. AC is not cold, fan works. Vehicle also needs wiper blades. Vehicle has not been driven at speed on road, only driveway maneuvering. Small dents and or scratches on all panels of the vehicle. Please see pictures. Vehicle is located in Collinsville, TX and is available for pre-view by appointment only July 19th & 20th prior to auction close on July 21st. Vehicle is sold AS-IS-Where-IS with no warranty or representation other than the included known condition as stated herein. Vehicle has been sitting for about two years. Please be sure to preview the car in-person prior to bidding to verify vehicle condition. Vehicle was smoked in and has been cleaned with some residual smoke smell. No maintenance or repair history available.
 

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Looks like the auction ended 3 days ago. Anyone know how to tell what the sale price was?
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Also... that auction house has some insane rules. 22% (!!) buyer's premium, and for items over $50k the bid increment is $10k!?? Srsly? :yayo:

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It ended up going for for $17,900 + fees. Looks like its hasn't been used much in past 5-6 yrs. Going to need a lot of maintenance items but I ended up picking it up anyways. I've wanted one for some time now. Two other bidders really wanted it too, so price jumped a lot at the end. I may of been better of paying more for a well sorted one but we'll see. I've owned plenty of Mercedes and Porsche and still a few of each now.. Always wanted to add one of these to the collection. Will be arriving this weekend so I'll keep you posted on condition...
 
@jay77 - you bought this car? That price is downright reasonable - congrats on the score! If it's straight and rust-free, I think you got a great deal. Some of the cosmetic issues visible in the photos (headliner, mirror boots, B-pillar upholstery, door pocket) are not difficult to repair. Hopefully it doesn't have a lot of mechanical needs, but if you can DIY the work, most of what you need to know is in the FSM and on this forum. BTW, don't replace or scrap those headlights, they are original/correct and NLA.

Also - welcome to the forum!

:welcome4:
 
It ended up going for for $17,900 + fees. Looks like its hasn't been used much in past 5-6 yrs. Going to need a lot of maintenance items but I ended up picking it up anyways. I've wanted one for some time now. Two other bidders really wanted it too, so price jumped a lot at the end. I may of been better of paying more for a well sorted one but we'll see. I've owned plenty of Mercedes and Porsche and still a few of each now.. Always wanted to add one of these to the collection. Will be arriving this weekend so I'll keep you posted on condition...
When you take delivery of the car, please start an OWNER thread in that sub-forum. It will give you a place to document what you do to the car.

And ... :welgroup:
 
great pick up! aesthetics and accessories end up being a pain to replace and or fix but the looks and drivetrain are just phenomenal...
 
Sorting through the car and its about what I expected. A lot of worn out rubber parts that will be getting replace. The knocking sound was a bad drivers side (left) tie rod NLA. Where or how should a source a new one? Car surprisingly has a newer upper wiring harness, so I purchased an extra so I post that for sale here. Doing full tune up and replacing all ignition parts with new, new Mercedes plugs, Valve cover gasket's, coolant flush. it had some ABS and SRS light on so rebuilding the alternator and voltage regulator. Head light lens look weathered and I'll be searching for new lenses which seems like a difficult task. Passenger seat won't move back. Oil seems to be on the AC compressor and AC doesn't function which was stated. Who makes best Rotors and suspension parts if you have to go aftermarket? Parts are a little trickier to source then I originally thought. Thanks for the help!
 
Jay, search the forum for tie rod info. The left & right sides are interchangeable, AFAIK this is still available and is preferred as a dealer-only item (not aftermarket). While the valve covers are off check the chain rails inside the "V" of the cylinder head - if original, they are overdue for replacement. Plastic section of the headlight lenses are NLA and there are no correct aftermarket alternatives, if you buy one, it will be a fog lens - not an auxiliary high beam. Get OE (dealer) brake rotors if available, otherwise Zimmerman or maybe Ate (not Brembo). Stick with OE/dealer for all suspension parts.

:spend:
 
I figured they would be interchangeable but thought I would ask as the left looks a little different. Thanks for the tips I will definitely check the chain rails. I'm assuming they haven't been done but you never know. Alternator bearings and voltage regulator where completely shot. Ordered new rotors from MB today...
 
Hi GSXR, I'm replacing the upper chain rails that are original brown brittle plastic and it looks the inner upper ones are intact but are most likely do for replacement as well. I ordered the Mercedes pin pulling tool and plan to knock those out since I'm in there. After pins are removed are you able to grab and slide the rails out or does the cam have to come out as well in order to provide chain slack. I've been reading up on it and seem to find people replacing chain and everything at the same time. I'll search some manuals. Thanks for you help!
 
After pins are removed are you able to grab and slide the rails out or does the cam have to come out as well in order to provide chain slack.
The rails will not come out unless you either remove the adjuster mechanism from the intake cam, OR remove the cam+adjuster together.


I've been reading up on it and seem to find people replacing chain and everything at the same time. I'll search some manuals. Thanks for you help!
Don't replace the chain until AFTER you replace all the rails, and measure chain stretch. The chain almost never requires replacement. If you don't have all the proper tools to roll in a new chain and crimp/peen the new master link.... it's a bit of a risky business.

:duck:
 
Do you happen to know where the instruction are regarding removing the adjuster mechanism method from the intake cam? I haven't been able to find it. Thanks again!
 
The entire process for chain rail, adjuster removal/disassembly, etc is detailed verbally and photographically in this thread:

 
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