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Thank you
WANTED 1994 E420 Lower Wiring Harness (1245403131) + Knock Sensor cable
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Although anythings possible, I doubt anyone will have this NLA factory harness on a shelf or in storage, it's been NLA for a while.
I bought mine about 6 years ago I think, and they became NLA shortly after that.
Good news is you can get yours rebuilt by a forum member, @jhodg5ck give him a shout..Good luck
I bought mine about 6 years ago I think, and they became NLA shortly after that.
Good news is you can get yours rebuilt by a forum member, @jhodg5ck give him a shout..Good luck
The lower wiring harness # 124-540-31-30 goes to the starter, alternator and oil pressure/level sensors. The harness is NLA but Blue Ridge MB will rebuild them for you.
The knock sensor cable is part of the knock sensor itself. If that is damaged or defective, replace the entire sensor. This is a RPITA as the engine mounts AND brackets must be removed. If the mounts are not recent, replace the mounts at the same time (Genuine MB highly recommended, there are no OEM mounts available aftermarket, only off-brand Chinese stuff). You will not want to repeat this job. The knock sensor is NLA but the 140 version will work, p/n 003-153-46-28. The 140 chassis cable is a few inches longer.
$200 from Naperville, free shipping with code 500EPROMO:
www.mboemparts.com
The knock sensor cable is part of the knock sensor itself. If that is damaged or defective, replace the entire sensor. This is a RPITA as the engine mounts AND brackets must be removed. If the mounts are not recent, replace the mounts at the same time (Genuine MB highly recommended, there are no OEM mounts available aftermarket, only off-brand Chinese stuff). You will not want to repeat this job. The knock sensor is NLA but the 140 version will work, p/n 003-153-46-28. The 140 chassis cable is a few inches longer.
$200 from Naperville, free shipping with code 500EPROMO:
Sender Unit, Knock Sensor 003-153-46-28 | MB OEM Parts
003-153-46-28 - Sender Unit, Knock Sensor
www.mboemparts.com
Thank you both... I must say it feels good already to be in a forum where people respond promptly 
and with very useful info!! Much appreciated.
I will check both sources you mentioned for the lower wiring harness, will most likely do this job first to see if I get lucky with the knock sensors (does the lower harness plug into the knock sensor harness?). If that doesn't solve the issue I will do engine mounts and Knock sensors next.
@gsxr thank you for that link and verifying that the w140 part will interchange.
I picked up the car cheap with both of these jobs accounted for + a lot of upgrade goodies. I guess if I figured out the manual swap on the C55, I can tackle this one....
and with very useful info!! Much appreciated.I will check both sources you mentioned for the lower wiring harness, will most likely do this job first to see if I get lucky with the knock sensors (does the lower harness plug into the knock sensor harness?). If that doesn't solve the issue I will do engine mounts and Knock sensors next.
@gsxr thank you for that link and verifying that the w140 part will interchange.
I picked up the car cheap with both of these jobs accounted for + a lot of upgrade goodies. I guess if I figured out the manual swap on the C55, I can tackle this one....
The lower harness (to starter/alternator) is completely separate from the knock sensors. They can be replaced separately, but the labor would be less if you do both at the same time, as similar stuff has to be removed for access.
This is not a fun DIY job, btw. Plan on 4-8 hours for the knock sensors, and again, check the engine mounts & replace if not recent. A pass/fail test for collapsed mounts is shown below.
Not to add to the scope creep, but with the engine mounts & brackets removed, it's VERY easy to replace the power steering hoses along the frame rail and the S-hose, both of which are cheap and are very common leak points, along with the steering box output shaft.
This is not a fun DIY job, btw. Plan on 4-8 hours for the knock sensors, and again, check the engine mounts & replace if not recent. A pass/fail test for collapsed mounts is shown below.
Not to add to the scope creep, but with the engine mounts & brackets removed, it's VERY easy to replace the power steering hoses along the frame rail and the S-hose, both of which are cheap and are very common leak points, along with the steering box output shaft.
HOW TO: Replace Power Steering S-Hose Shielding | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles
Note: Depending which end of the wrench you are on, this procedure is either a money-maker or money-saver. The shielding can be installed in seconds time without be buggered. Required Parts: Power Steering Low Pressure S-Hose 124 466 32 81 Hose Thermal Shielding 126 997 29 82 Bench Vice Long...
www.500eboard.co
HOW-TO: Removing and re-sealing ZF tandem pump (SLS and power steering) | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles
Re: Power Steering Pump Leak Investigation I just finished re-sealing my other cam advance solenoid, as well. That job took about an hour, start to finish, working carefully. With regard to brake cleaner. I have never heard of any problems with using it on aluminum parts (remember that some...
www.500eboard.com
FYI - HOW-TO: Reseal the power steering box output shaft at Pitman arm | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles
The power steering system is the source of many fluid leaks on the 500E/E500 (and its baby brother, the 400E/E420). Along with the three rubber hoses for the fluid lines to & from the pump, the gearbox itself can also leak. If there is visible wetness at the gearbox, first clean it off with carb...
www.500eboard.co
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Ok thank you for the clarification and the list of 'while your in there' things to take care of, I am all about doing just that!
newb question, but what does the knock sensor harness plug into for signal? upper harness or directly into a CAN box or?
I will definitely plan to take my time with this job and will try to recruit help from a few experienced sources local to me if available...
Off topic question, but are there any suppliers of polyurethane mounts or silicone hose kits for these cars out there in the wild?
newb question, but what does the knock sensor harness plug into for signal? upper harness or directly into a CAN box or?
I will definitely plan to take my time with this job and will try to recruit help from a few experienced sources local to me if available...
Off topic question, but are there any suppliers of polyurethane mounts or silicone hose kits for these cars out there in the wild?
Knock sensor plugs into the EZL (ignition module) on the driver side fender. It's the upper round connector with 3 pins.
There are no suppliers of urethane mounts, but I've heard @jhodg5ck at Blue Ridge likes to fill aftermarket engine mounts with urethane for race use. Not sure how this works on the street, i.e. if it transmits more vibration or not. New OE mounts will last another 10 years / 100kmi but are spendy at $400/pair.
I've seen silicone coolant hose kits in Japan but nobody in USA really bothers, the cost is high and ROI is poor IMO. Usually just need to replace the upper radiator hose proactively if it's old/original, and make sure the 2 heater hoses at the back of the engine block are not soft or swollen. The power steering hoses, just use OE/OEM for the straight hoses (below reservoir, and along frame rail) and the S-hose is a dealer-only item.
If you just got the car - plan on doing all the fluids & filters. I'd recommend dropping the lower oil pan to inspect for chain rail debris, if you find any, then the valve covers have to come off for a visual inspection up top. If the oil pan has zero debris, pulling the valve covers is optional (but still a good idea). Also replace the oil level sender O-ring in the side of the block while the pan is off (very common leak). There's a bunch of other stuff you may find along the way. Check out the "HOW TO" articles, a lot of this stuff has been covered in the past. Oh, and your E420 has a dust filter for the cabin that may be dirty, don't forget that one. It can be replaced by removing the screen below the wiper on the driver side, there's just enough space to R&R the filter through the hole. Photo attached.
There are no suppliers of urethane mounts, but I've heard @jhodg5ck at Blue Ridge likes to fill aftermarket engine mounts with urethane for race use. Not sure how this works on the street, i.e. if it transmits more vibration or not. New OE mounts will last another 10 years / 100kmi but are spendy at $400/pair.
I've seen silicone coolant hose kits in Japan but nobody in USA really bothers, the cost is high and ROI is poor IMO. Usually just need to replace the upper radiator hose proactively if it's old/original, and make sure the 2 heater hoses at the back of the engine block are not soft or swollen. The power steering hoses, just use OE/OEM for the straight hoses (below reservoir, and along frame rail) and the S-hose is a dealer-only item.
If you just got the car - plan on doing all the fluids & filters. I'd recommend dropping the lower oil pan to inspect for chain rail debris, if you find any, then the valve covers have to come off for a visual inspection up top. If the oil pan has zero debris, pulling the valve covers is optional (but still a good idea). Also replace the oil level sender O-ring in the side of the block while the pan is off (very common leak). There's a bunch of other stuff you may find along the way. Check out the "HOW TO" articles, a lot of this stuff has been covered in the past. Oh, and your E420 has a dust filter for the cabin that may be dirty, don't forget that one. It can be replaced by removing the screen below the wiper on the driver side, there's just enough space to R&R the filter through the hole. Photo attached.
Attachments
Ahh the EZL, had seen that mentioned a few times thus far exploring around... check.
Gotcha, I use solid mounts on the ML55 I made and 70A poly on the C55, both drive pretty close to stock in terms of nvh. I have filled a few before too in other applications, maybe something I would try on these but this design seems less prone to cracking versus the m112/m113 design.
Most fluids in the car are new as it had a tune up not long ago, need to flush coolant and brake fluid though definitely. Most hoses look to be newer and feel good, pcv hoses need replacing though. Dropping the oil pan doesn't sound like a bad idea though, there are so many things I am thankful for in terms of design and accessibility of this engine/chassis compared to the m113 in my w163 and w203...
I have a shopping list and a priority list of things to go through definitely, your insight and guidance is VERY much appreciated!!!
Gotcha, I use solid mounts on the ML55 I made and 70A poly on the C55, both drive pretty close to stock in terms of nvh. I have filled a few before too in other applications, maybe something I would try on these but this design seems less prone to cracking versus the m112/m113 design.
Most fluids in the car are new as it had a tune up not long ago, need to flush coolant and brake fluid though definitely. Most hoses look to be newer and feel good, pcv hoses need replacing though. Dropping the oil pan doesn't sound like a bad idea though, there are so many things I am thankful for in terms of design and accessibility of this engine/chassis compared to the m113 in my w163 and w203...
I have a shopping list and a priority list of things to go through definitely, your insight and guidance is VERY much appreciated!!!
Follow the factory procedure for brake bleeding - must be pressure bled, and don't forget port SP if it has ASR. Remember there are 2 block drains for the coolant, and the factory manual spec for coolant is wrong - shows 15.5L (16.5 qt), actual is 12.5L (~13.0 qt). Premix coolant and fill the block through the upper radiator hose to avoid air pockets, if you don't have a vacuum filler.
PCV tube part numbers are here, see post #6:
And, in case you didn't know, MB of Naperville (dealer in Illinois) offers free shipping on orders over $100 with code 500EPROMO:
www.mboemparts.com
PCV tube part numbers are here, see post #6:
PCV breather hose replacement - Part numbers | M119 Engine
Hi, I noticed this weekend a hose on the driver's side next to the wires at the front is seeping (see pictures). Seems like a very easy replacement of an old, saturated breather hose. I checked epc for the part, but I can't find it anywhere - the closest thing was in the "Major Engine...
www.500eboard.co
And, in case you didn't know, MB of Naperville (dealer in Illinois) offers free shipping on orders over $100 with code 500EPROMO:
1992-1993 Mercedes-Benz Cooler 124-500-03-02 | MB OEM Parts
1992-1993 Mercedes-Benz part # 124-500-03-02 - Cooler
www.mboemparts.com
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