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2009 E63 AMG On HaT for THIRD TIME !!

gerryvz

Site Honcho
Staff member
This 2009 E63 AMG (W211) is on HaT for the third time now. It has a bit under 15K miles on it and has extensive paperwork, but it is interesting to see a three-timer.

For the record, the car originally sold for $39K + tax and fees in 2023, then hit $30K (didn’t hit reserve) a year ago, and is currently back up at a $30K bid with a couple days to do.

I paid considerably under the $39K for my 2007 with 24K on it last summer. My car has an identical option list to this one except I don’t have to panoramic sunroof. Otherwise everything else is same on my car — this one is silver and mine is Flint Gray.


Original HaT auction — June 2023 — sold for $39.5K base bid + fees:


Second attempt — January 2024 — RNM at $30,250 [Listed by new owner who purchased in June 2023]


Third attempt — Feb 2025 — currently bid to $30K with 1.5 days to go
 
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The peanut gallery just can't let go of the head bolt issue. The previous auction (Jan-2024) had a lot of hand-wringing over this. Current owner got bored with it awfully quick (few months) and his explanation at the time was weak.

I'm kinda surprised BaHaT didn't make the current owner list with No Reserve.

:scratchchin:
 
The peanut gallery just can't let go of the head bolt issue. The previous auction (Jan-2024) had a lot of hand-wringing over this. Current owner got bored with it awfully quick (few months) and his explanation at the time was weak.

I'm kinda surprised BaHaT didn't make the current owner list with No Reserve.
Seller from Jan 2024 and now is just your typical flipper. Gets a new toy, drives for a few months, gets bored and wants to sell.

We've had our fair share of those types here on this forum over the years. Though I think here they often get disillusioned because the car isn't as "fast" as they think it should be, or other more modern cars they've had with double the horsepower than an .036 has.

I've send for many many years, 300-350 HP is all anyone needs for quite fast daily driving, even in today's world. And the E500E has this with no problem.
 
The point I didn’t mention is that this is the third go-around in like 18 months for this car.

It’s a super nice car, and the paperwork is amazing (very similar to my own car and in part what I used as a comp when I bought mine last year).

It’s obviously turned into a garage bauble that people are tossing around in hopes of a big uplift, which doesn’t seem to be happening.

Have you seen the prices of W211 E55s and E63s? They are a lot of bang for the buck, but of course 90% of them are driven hard and put away wet. The prices reflect that.

At $30K if it goes for that, this car would be a steal. I was damned glad to get mine with 24K miles at just a tad over that.
 
Interesting that this one hasn't budged in a few days, still at $30K with 5 hours to go. Will be interesting to see what it ends up at.

My prediction is low $30K and an RNM.

Current seller paid all the money at $39K back in 2023. I think he over-paid then by about $5-6K.
 
Interesting that this one hasn't budged in a few days, still at $30K with 5 hours to go. Will be interesting to see what it ends up at.

My prediction is low $30K and an RNM.

Current seller paid all the money at $39K back in 2023. I think he over-paid then by about $5-6K.

I'd bet my house it sells.

Also, a five-time alumni. No Reserve: 1995 Ferrari F355 Challenge

Turns out the idea of owning race cars is a lot more fun than actually owning it and trying to drive it.
 
The peanut gallery just can't let go of the head bolt issue.
The perennial bane of the M156 cars with the peanut gallery.
  1. Head bolts (corrosion/failure is generally not an issue if coolant is changed every couple or three years)
  2. Valvetrain/cam lobes/buckets (wear/failure is generally not an issue if oil is changed every 5,000 miles or less)
  3. Oil in intake manifold (generally not an issue if PCV valve is changed & a catch-can is installed)
  4. Fuel injector failure (not an issue if injectors are changed every 60-80,000 miles)
Other than that, these M156 engines are pretty darn bulletproof......
 
A little plug for this youtube channel, guys are pretty cool and have lots of videos on various Benzes:

 
The perennial bane of the M156 cars with the peanut gallery.
  1. Head bolts (corrosion/failure is generally not an issue if coolant is changed every couple or three years)
  2. Valvetrain/cam lobes/buckets (wear/failure is generally not an issue if oil is changed every 5,000 miles or less)
  3. Oil in intake manifold (generally not an issue if PCV valve is changed & a catch-can is installed)
  4. Fuel injector failure (not an issue if injectors are changed every 60-80,000 miles)
Other than that, these M156 engines are pretty darn bulletproof......
Yeah those are keyboard warrior issues for guys trying to extract profit out of a car. If you own it and drive it those are non-issues. You'll attend to those and many more costly issues during your ownership. Catch one early, do all those things preventatively and enjoy the ride.

maw
 
Bids didn't move, so it actually SOLD at $30K. Someone got a steal on an excellent garage bauble, IMHO.

Seller took a pretty significant bath on this one, losing probably around $15+K in 18 months between the $39+K he paid for it, and maintenance. I'll have to total it up.

I would peg the market value of this example at probably $35-36K, but evidently the market for these may have moved downward a little bit over the past year or two......

:update:
I take that back....the seller, since he got the car over 18 months ago, only has one receipt, for a transmission fluid flush, rear diff fluid replacement, brake fluid flush and coolant flush, all for $1,254 parts and labor.

I was thinking that some of the prior paperwork was from the seller, but it was all from the previous owner that today's seller purchased from back in June 2023.

So, with the original price paid, he is out ~$10,750 over the price that the car was bid up to today.

Still....an expensive 18 months given that he only drove the car 2,100 miles during that time, plus about 8-9 tanks of gas.
 
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That same crowd would rather have a C63.
Indeed, the snapperheads tend to prefer the C63s, or the E55s due to their ability to mod them more easily and cheaply. It's funny how badly the E55 W211 owners dis the E63 W211ers. I think it's just insecurity, but who knows?
 
@gerryvz, how do the 036 and the W211 E63 compare to your mind?

My brother had a C63 507 Wagon for a couple of years and every time I drove that car I couldn't help but thinking how much it feels like a faster version of the 036. Precise but slowish steering, an engine that needs to be revved to get anywhere quick and a certain meaty cumbersomeness to the whole affair). Maybe your impression from the W211 is a very different one?
 
I'm sorry, but where does a Kompressor have less power than an M156? I get we're talking HP in the high revs and TORQUE in the low revs, but does that really equate to less power? I don't know.

It's been a long time since I've driven a W211Kompressor that wasn't tuned to levels M156 couldn't even dream about. And I've only ever driven the M156 in an S Class. Now, Weistec blow an M156 like the C63 kids do and then you're just in a rocket.

Also my .036 is set to eager downshifts and I drive my Kompressor in M mode so I'm never waiting on a Mercedes TCU. Make a pizza why don't you? It's also tough to get my Kompressor to break em loose, once I put more contact out back to calm that down.

@TimL asks an interesting question, so I might have to find and drive an E63. @gsxr you care to weigh in here, as our resident .036 specialist who's owned both cars? Or @duuder with the Black Series comparison but that's just not fair.🤣

maw
 
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Indeed, the snapperheads tend to prefer the C63s, or the E55s due to their ability to mod them more easily and cheaply. It's funny how badly the E55 W211 owners dis the E63 W211ers. I think it's just insecurity, but who knows?
its a moddable HP thing, boy racer thing..
 
I'm sorry, but where does a Kompressor have less power than an M156? I get we're talking HP in the high revs and TORQUE in the low revs, but does that really equate to less power? I don't know.

It's been a long time since I've driven a W211Kompressor that wasn't tuned to levels M156 couldn't even dream about. And I've only ever driven the M156 in an S Class. Now, Weistec blow an M156 like the C63 kids do and then you're just in a rocket.

Also my .036 is set to eager downshifts and I drive my Kompressor in M mode so I'm never waiting on a Mercedes TCU. Make a pizza why don't you? It's also tough to get my Kompressor to break em loose, once I put more contact out back to calm that down.

@TimL asks an interesting question, so I might have to find and drive an E63. @gsxr you care to weigh in here, as our resident .036 specialist who's owned both cars? Or @duuder with the Black Series comparison but that's just not fair.🤣

maw
i'm still in love w/ the S63 since the first time i heard it coming passing by infront of the bloomberg building, i've seen 2 NYC in the last year and try to follow one just to hear it but couldnt keep up as i was in my slow car
 
Interesting- very different from my impression of the 507 C-Series then. That car doesn’t have airmatic so to me it felt like a hardened up version of the 036.

I’d also agree with Marcus, the torque of the m113k feels a lot more accessible and at least to me always felt more impressive than the m156.

But that’s the beauty. Everyone is different and has different preferences when it comes to cars 🙂
 
Interesting- very different from my impression of the 507 C-Series then. That car doesn’t have airmatic so to me it felt like a hardened up version of the 036.

I’d also agree with Marcus, the torque of the m113k feels a lot more accessible and at least to me always felt more impressive than the m156.

But that’s the beauty. Everyone is different and has different preferences when it comes to cars 🙂
I forgot about the Airmatic / ABC suspensions.

A "teeth chattering" .036 is a description of the C63 I've heard before.

But that was from guys older than me or @TimL 🤣, one of which sold me my .036 and now drives a TT E63 Estate. But he's a special case, that one.

maw
 
@gerryvz, how do the 036 and the W211 E63 compare to your mind?

@TimL asks an interesting question, so I might have to find and drive an E63. @gsxr you care to weigh in here, as our resident .036 specialist who's owned both cars?
Both the 036 and 211.077 E63 are awesome. Mine had the P30 package and a "tune" that bumped power to ~540 hp at the crank. The M156 is basically the M119 with 15 years of engineering/technical advances, along with 6.2L displacement. The M156 squeezes about another 20% power from equivalent displacement vs M119. Wide torque curve, smooth power delivery, pulls to 7000rpm. The 7-speed 722.9 transmission works well if you leave the shifter alone, and the overdrive 6th + 7th gears are welcome for high speed freeway cruising. Handling is very good to excellent, again noting mine was the P30 with different front air struts. The P30 factory LSD is fantastic (if you shop for an E63, I'd heavily lean towards a P30 car for the LSD alone). Optional HID headlights, with ILS enabled via SDS developer mode, are astounding at night compared to any lights you can fit to a 124. Stock brakes are excellent (no need to upgrade) but are $$$ to replace. You can get 580-600hp but that requires a lot of mods including long-tube headers and various other tweaks ($$$$).

The downside of the E63 is size & weight. It's a relatively big, bulky car. IMO it feels closer to a 140 SWB in size than a 124, or at least a 210, if you've driven one of those. Drive any 211 sedan for a good comparison of the size & weight. The E63 is about 300lbs heavier vs the 036. Some of the creature comforts are really nice. Separate temp controls for driver & passenger, can retrofit an HVAC control panel to obtain REST function (standard on Canada cars, not available in USA), factory iPod Classic integration available, steering wheel controls of the stereo system, overall very good audio system (once you shut off the default Logic7 funky surround), optional KeylessGO is fabulous... and more.

My one real complaint is the terrible engine temperature bar graph, which is programmed similar to domestic "C/H" gauges. Connecting an OBD-2 "ScanGauge" to read actual temps from the ECU show that the bar graph can remain unchanged while actual temps may swing up to 15°C. All 211's suffer this foolish display, the 212 went back to an analog gauge although I don't know if the 212 gauge is accurate like the 124/210 or not. Visibility from the driver seat is not quite as good IMO vs the 124, again this is for any 211.

The only issue we really had with the E63 is that it's sort of useless if you live in a city and don't get to open it up anywhere. Caged animal syndrome. When we lived in Idaho, it had to be driven with cruise control all the time, due to Idaho being very serious about their revenue generation. :rolleyes: We sold it because the car mostly just did dragstrip duty (it was my wife's race car for a few years), was parked all winter, and rarely went out otherwise. Had I known we'd relocate to MT, I might have kept it. Lots more space to exercise the M156 up here.

:e500launch:
 
Videos comparing both to 130-ish. The E63 gets there 6-7 seconds quicker, which is a big difference.

The W124 with 6.0L M119 is roughly in the middle, a bit closer to the E63 performance (no video of that, sorry).



:tree:
 
The perennial bane of the M156 cars with the peanut gallery.
  1. Head bolts (corrosion/failure is generally not an issue if coolant is changed every couple or three years)
  2. Valvetrain/cam lobes/buckets (wear/failure is generally not an issue if oil is changed every 5,000 miles or less)
  3. Oil in intake manifold (generally not an issue if PCV valve is changed & a catch-can is installed)
  4. Fuel injector failure (not an issue if injectors are changed every 60-80,000 miles)
Other than that, these M156 engines are pretty darn bulletproof......
Gerry I don't fully agree with you having quite some experience with those cars
1- yes
2-the cams and buckets are made of butter don't think it has to do with oil changes
3-yes
4-yes
5- intakes is made of soft metal that corrodes and makes holes
6- intake gaskets shrink and creates vacuum leak
7- upper oil pan had a really thin gasket maker and leak < engine out >
8- cam adjusters
 
Yes, I forgot the cam adjusters, that is for sure an issue. You just replace the plates, though.

The intake gaskets aren't a big deal. Just remove and replace. Not that hard

Buckets can be replaced with M159 units, which solves the problem

Soft metal intake - I've heard about this. Seems related to when there is a lot of oil in the intake manifold. Anyway, higher mileage.
 
I can certainly chime in on this post.

I owned a 2009 E63 with P30 that I bought June 2018 for $20,500 with 68k miles on the clock. Head bolts had been done and other service at MB Dealers by PO's.

In the 6 years I owned that car (sold in July 2024), I had $36,700 in maintenance and some cosmetic costs, not counting (three sets of) tires. That's $6k/year. The cosmetic side was a new front bumper cover (didn't like the road rash), painted, new Hella headlights, new fog lights for a front end refresh, along with PPF on the bumper cover. That was about $6k of the $36k. Most of the rest was for parts and my dear friend Jono. I sold the car with about 130k miles on it, so I certainly drove it, but the last two years only about 8k miles (working from home and the car spending months with Jono). I had an open checkbook approach to the car, but got very tired of opening the checkbook. Two intake manifold rebuilds because of the stupid idea to make the IM out of magnesium with the heat, fuel, oil, air environment and an equally horrendous PCV set up that allowed copious amounts of oil blow by into the IM. It was so embarrassing after a road trip to have a massive smoke cloud appear from the tailpipes the next day because of all the oil blow by. Horrible metallurgy on the cam phaser plates that gall out, replaced the sticky lifters with Black Series lifters, failure of all four air shocks (that had already been replaced by a PO) and air pump, twice the A/C compressor had to be replaced because of the stupid location of the A/C suction line right next to the exhaust on the Driver Side that causes the line to collapse internally and causes compressor failure (BTW, that A/C line is unique to the M156/W211 and NLA...). All four keyless go door handles failed and were replaced. Bad rear main seal leak and full front suspension rebuild. Oil catch can installed. Shall I continue?

Every single M156 intake manifold will fail eventually from horrible corrosion and gaping holes. I think the IM (could only buy the whole thing!) is NLA now. If you have a solid M156 car, have the IM removed and the top and bottom parts coated on the inside! The middle plate that houses the two throttle bodies is also made of magnesium and also corrodes, but there are aftermarket replacement plates available that are NOT magnesium.

These cars are great when they work, but my gorgeous E63 was a serious money pit, which, IMO, is why the buy-in is so cheap. Sold it for $15k. Drive a 2016 Lexus LS460 now.
 
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The last straw for me was the 2nd A/C compressor failure and the collapsed A/C suction line. Jono finally found a hydraulic shop to rebuild the line. I bought some heavy aluminum heat shield sheeting that Jono wrapped around the rebuilt A/C line. Jono also installed a brand new set of Giro Disc cryo'd rotors and Porterfield pads. I put about 1,000 miles on that $1,500 expenditure. And the last set of tires I bought went on the refinished ultra rare P30 wheels - I put about 250 miles on that set of sneakers.....

P30 Wheel.jpgGiro Disc Rotor Nov 2023.jpeg
 
Wait until you little temp sensor leaks by the ac compressor and your oil pan starts leaking around the engine mounts you will cry .
We forgot to
Mention the horrible pulley system also made of butter
Not a got engine in my honest opinion not like the w211 E55
 
Your making me a little sad, I have one these m156's
Sorry was not my intention
Head bolts easy fix
You should remove your intake open it up and put por15 to paint the inside
Not to hard to do.make sure you change the bolts around the intake .
For oil I would add a bottle of Liquimoly cératec for camshafts
Use the Mercedes 5-40 aproved oils not the 0-40
once sorted you should be ok
 
For the concern about cams/lifters/adjusters wearing abnormally, what I did was monitor wear metals from oil analysis at every change. If these components start to wear significantly, the metals should increase noticeably in the UOA report. This will at least give you some warning before anything bad happens. I suspect that using incorrect oil, and/or not changing oil frequently enough, is what kills the valvetrain parts prematurely.

I used Red Line 5W-40 in my M156 and changed around 3-5kmi, the UOA was always good The valvetrain was fine at 127kmi when I sold it, but the new owner decided to upgrade to the SLS (M159) Black Series lifters (and, replace original head bolts) proactively just to be safe.

:v8:
 
For the concern about cams/lifters/adjusters wearing abnormally, what I did was monitor wear metals from oil analysis at every change. If these components start to wear significantly, the metals should increase noticeably in the UOA report. This will at least give you some warning before anything bad happens. I suspect that using incorrect oil, and/or not changing oil frequently enough, is what kills the valvetrain parts prematurely.

I used Red Line 5W-40 in my M156 and changed around 3-5kmi, the UOA was always good The valvetrain was fine at 127kmi when I sold it, but the new owner decided to upgrade to the SLS (M159) Black Series lifters (and, replace original head bolts) proactively just to be safe.
I agree 110%. I always do oil analysis with all of my engines, so would definitely notice if any metals levels were elevated.

And I also agree that using the proper oil, along with oil changes every 3,000-5,000 miles (even with full synthetic oil), will largely mitigate the valvetrain wear. I will be switching to RedLine 5W-40synthetic oil. For the first 23K miles of its life, my car has used MB synthetic oil that has been spec'd for the car (I think 229.5 spec?). RedLine should provide some additional valvetrain protection given its additive package.

As far as my own car is concerned (it currently has 25,500 miles on the odometer; I purchased it last summer with just over 24K on the odometer):.

I have a set of 6.3 Motorsports cam adjuster plates in reserve, for when they are needed (not likely in the next 10-15 years given the low mileage on my car). New MB PCV valve and catch-can are very soon to be installed.

I am planning to proactively replace my head bolts and also replace the lifters with Black Series units later in 2025 -- likely late summer or fall. I will also keep a set of Bosch fuel injectors in reserve, but they are not currently needed.

The intake manifold will be coming off/out when I do the above work, and will be inspected, assessed and maintained as appropriate.

The oilpan was removed and re-sealed immediately prior to me purchasing the car, and all fluids were changed except the rear diff and transmission fluid. I will be doing the transmission fluid soon.
 
I agree 110%. I always do oil analysis with all of my engines, so would definitely notice if any metals levels were elevated.

And I also agree that using the proper oil, along with oil changes every 3,000-5,000 miles (even with full synthetic oil), will largely mitigate the valvetrain wear. I will be switching to RedLine 5W-40synthetic oil. For the first 23K miles of its life, my car has used MB synthetic oil that has been spec'd for the car (I think 229.5 spec?). RedLine should provide some additional valvetrain protection given its additive package.

As far as my own car is concerned (it currently has 25,500 miles on the odometer; I purchased it last summer with just over 24K on the odometer):.

I have a set of 6.3 Motorsports cam adjuster plates in reserve, for when they are needed (not likely in the next 10-15 years given the low mileage on my car). New MB PCV valve and catch-can are very soon to be installed.

I am planning to proactively replace my head bolts and also replace the lifters with Black Series units later in 2025 -- likely late summer or fall. I will also keep a set of Bosch fuel injectors in reserve, but they are not currently needed.

The intake manifold will be coming off/out when I do the above work, and will be inspected, assessed and maintained as appropriate.

The oilpan was removed and re-sealed immediately prior to me purchasing the car, and all fluids were changed except the rear diff and transmission fluid. I will be doing the transmission fluid soon.
At the miles you have almost nothing can go bad . Just the upper oil pans ( I think there are 3 of them ) lower middle and around the crank
 
Well, on this topic of metals and oil analysis, in the 6 years I owned my E63, I had 10 Blackstone Labs oil analyses done (missed one oil change - s/h/b 11 over 65k miles). Be happy to share my engine results if anyone wants to see them.

I had really great oil tests over the 65k miles I put on the car. I had slightly elevated iron up to the time I replaced the steel cam phasers with much harder 63 Motorsports aftermarket phasers. The galling (see pic below) was the cause of the elevated iron. Once replaced, the #'s went down. Because of cam wear issues these motors can exhibit, I religiously had the oil analyzed.

As to oil used, the first 5 oil changes, I used Motul X-cess 5w-40, then Jono had me change to Liqui Moly GT1 10w-60 after talking to AMG engineers who designed the M156. The 10w-60 was too thick in the winter, IMO.

Al
 

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Well I'm guessing all the above is how "pre-merger" became a thing. You just can't cost cut a thoroughbred AMG to fit a market segment.

The car IS the segment.

Le sigh...

maw
 
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Well, on this topic of metals and oil analysis, in the 6 years I owned my E63, I had 10 Blackstone Labs oil analyses done (missed one oil change - s/h/b 11 over 65k miles). Be happy to share my engine results if anyone wants to see them.

I had really great oil tests over the 65k miles I put on the car. I had slightly elevated iron up to the time I replaced the steel cam phasers with much harder 63 Motorsports aftermarket phasers. The galling (see pic below) was the cause of the elevated iron. Once replaced, the #'s went down. Because of cam wear issues these motors can exhibit, I religiously had the oil analyzed.

As to oil used, the first 5 oil changes, I used Motul X-cess 5w-40, then Jono had me change to Liqui Moly GT1 10w-60 after talking to AMG engineers who designed the M156. The 10w-60 was too thick in the winter, IMO.

Al
This all makes me think there may have been a supplier issue at the time.

The BMW E46M (which uses 10W60) guys are all over this same issue for cam lifters, followers, etc. -- oil samples with 5k changes, premature wear, etc. I always thought 10W60 was an odd engine spec for such a small engine, but the high revving nature of it (similar to AMG's effort here) and BMW's ardent warnings not to rev the car past 4,000 RPM until it warms up (says the warming lights on the dash), all start to create a cogent picture.

Use an "extra thick" oil which really is "too thick in the winter" but let it warm up + this isn't a winter car anyway = all to protect against premature wear.

But that car cost maybe 2/3 what this one did, so there's that.

maw
 
I've been keeping an eye/ear on everything, my car has about 21k and I do ceratec every other oil change and use a lifter additive and have an analysis as I have a few credits there.

I've been changing my oil about every 2 years, sub 3km of usage so far
 
I've been keeping an eye/ear on everything, my car has about 21k and I do ceratec every other oil change and use a lifter additive and have an analysis as I have a few credits there.

I've been changing my oil about every 2 years, sub 3km of usage so far
I mean, as long as you don't beat on it cold (which I'm sure you don't because you're not an idiot), you should be fine.

But also for your use (summertime in the City), a thicker oil probably won't hurt.

On my M, in the SoFL heat, I just let it warm up and drive it just this side of "like I stole it" (jokes). Changes every 5k or 2 years, which always comes first.

maw
 
This all makes me think there may have been a supplier issue at the time.

The BMW E46M (which uses 10W60) guys are all over this same issue for cam lifters, followers, etc. -- oil samples with 5k changes, premature wear, etc. I always thought 10W60 was an odd engine spec for such a small engine, but the high revving nature of it (similar to AMG's effort here) and BMW's ardent warnings not to rev the car past 4,000 RPM until it warms up (says the warming lights on the dash), all start to create a cogent picture.

Use an "extra thick" oil which really is "too thick in the winter" but let it warm up + this isn't a winter car anyway = all to protect against premature wear.

But that car cost maybe 2/3 what this one did, so there's that.

maw
I think the oil on bmw was to thick at cold considering the tight bearing tolerances .
 
Bids didn't move, so it actually SOLD at $30K. Someone got a steal on an excellent garage bauble, IMHO.

Seller took a pretty significant bath on this one, losing probably around $15+K in 18 months between the $39+K he paid for it, and maintenance. I'll have to total it up.

I would peg the market value of this example at probably $35-36K, but evidently the market for these may have moved downward a little bit over the past year or two......

:update:
I take that back....the seller, since he got the car over 18 months ago, only has one receipt, for a transmission fluid flush, rear diff fluid replacement, brake fluid flush and coolant flush, all for $1,254 parts and labor.

I was thinking that some of the prior paperwork was from the seller, but it was all from the previous owner that today's seller purchased from back in June 2023.

So, with the original price paid, he is out ~$10,750 over the price that the car was bid up to today.

Still....an expensive 18 months given that he only drove the car 2,100 miles during that time, plus about 8-9 tanks of gas.
One slight update.

The seller of this car (in the Jan 2024 and Feb 2025 auctions) actually did one more repair - the right front air strut had been replaced by the previous seller in late 2022. Due to a defect with the factory part, the 2024+2025 seller was able to get a free warranty repair done in 2023. No investment of $$$, so the $10,570 loss number above still holds.
 
Another low-mile, final year W211 E55 on BAT:

Funny you picked up on this @8899 ... @gsxr and I were checking this one out the other day... somehow I repeatedly forget they are not the same power from the factory as our W220 S55k... since forever I forget that.

It'll be interesting to see how big of a gain or loss there is on this one.

maw
 
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Another relatively short-honeymoon garage bauble.

It will be interesting to see how this one does, in comparison to the E63. My guess is that it will be in the same ballpark (my prediction is $30K, +/- $3K + final auction fees), because many consider the M113 to be a better proposition than the M156. Interesting that this one sold back in 2023 for $40K. I'd bet the market for these has softened significantly, as well

Irregardless of the engine preference (one can make a very strong case for both, pro and con), I do think that many of the improvements in the 2007-2009 "facelift" W211s tip the scales for the E63. The 2009 cars, especially.

Just LOVE how so many cars living in California have Oregon and Montana plates.
 
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