On this thread I will document the refurbishment of my 6.0 Wide Body.
The car in generally good condition but has been neglected for the past several years, nothing bad, damaging or irreversible but a number of things that need to be attended to in order to attain it's former glory. The car deserves it even if I don't.
The endgame is to make it exactly how it appeared the day it drove out of Westmont.
Suggestions are always welcome as I "think" I know what I am doing..... but thinking and knowing are two different things.
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Refurbishment of the 9" and 10" Chrome Plated Penta's.
The car is let down by it's skinny 8" Penta's, fortunately the correct 9" and 10" were included. Originally they were chrome plated so chrome it will be.
I have visually inspected the wheels and found them to be in good condition. I was especially concerned about the mating surface from the wheel nuts to the wheel. My fears proved to be unwarranted as they were fine. The next step is to have them crack tested using Zyglo ZL-56. This will detect any surface cracks that may have appeared during the 27 year life of the wheels. Cost is around $30. per wheel.
If they pass Zyglo they will then be X-Rayed to detect any subsurface cracks. I don't think it's necessary to x-ray all parts since it's quite expensive but wheels are a different story. If a door handle breaks it's not the end of the world. A wheel breaks at speed it's not the end of the world either, it's just the end of your world... cost is around $250. per wheel.
Assuming they pass the NDT (non destructive testing) I will send them off to a chrome plater. I ordered special 18X18X12 double wall 275 lb. test boxes from ULINE to package and ship the wheels. I had to buy 25 but now I have boxes to store my other wheels. The wheels will be packed in 6mil poly bags before boxing and foam insulation will be used as packing material.
Once the plater receives the wheels they will be stripped of the old chrome. After stripping, polishing and buffing they will be copper plated - twice. Copper fills in the microscopic pits and provides a good surface for the nickel. I am assured that they wont buff out the details such as the AMG part number or size. They will be buffed to a high luster after each plating bath.
Once the final layer of copper is completed the wheels will be nickel plated. The bright finish we see on "chrome" is actually highly polished nickel, the chromium is actually a thin coat to protect the nickel.
New anode's will be used for every metal and every wheel every time (OCD rears it's head once again).
Once the plating has been done they will be "baked." "Baking" eliminates hydrogen embrittlement,which is usually not present in aluminum alloy but 1) better safe than sorry or 2) in for a pound, in for a dollar or 3) I really need help with this OCD. I'll leave to reader to answer the question - to themselves....
Cost of plating is a somewhat reasonable $400. per wheel if the estimate is to be believed. I'm sure part of that cost is me being a PITA.
Once the wheels are returned I will shod them with new 255/50/16 tires, not sure of the brand just yet. BF Goodrich g-Force Sport Comp 2 are $135. each from Tire Rack. The only other tires of the proper size are Toyo's. The tires will have matching dates of manufacture (see OCD comment above) and cleaned and dressed prior to installation.
Once installed they will be Road Force balanced with the weights stuck on the inside of the rims per AMG, not the current and widely used practice of clipping the weights on the outside.
With the wheels done and returned I can relax and handle my nuts.
The car has some trick Wilwood brakes which, although not original, I will probably keep as I have the originals on the shelf. As per most racing cars they use studs and nuts instead of wheel bolts.
I refuse to chrome plate them because of the fear of hydrogen embrittlement so I will have them black oxide coated both as a rust preventative and for looks. After B/O coating they will be buffed to a satin luster and powder coated clear. If they made a cashmere lined lug nut wrench I'd probably buy it....
I expect the entire process to take around 45 - 60 days. and cost around $1000. per wheel by the time I get them back on the car.
PICs will be taken every step of the way but keep in mind that due to Global Warming we are having the coldest November in recent history and I really don't want to freeze my FDA (fat dago ass) off. I also have some major surgery set up and there's that little thing called work which seems to interfere with playing with cars so progress may not be as fast as I would like.
I have reached out, and some have reached out to me, to many of the old AMG employees at Westmont. I will try to put together a "reunion" of sorts. Any excuse to get together with fellow car people.
Next step is to reconstruct the high end, for it's day, Nakamichi Stereo System.
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This "series" will be exclusive to Gerry's list AKA the 500E Board. I don't really want the drama present on some of the other forums by people who have not taken the time to get to know me but still, somehow, feel the need to make up something both untrue and/or bad. Nor do I particularly want advice, however well intended, from someone who's sole experience in restoration is reading a Better Housekeeping article in their doctors office.
It's one of the benefits of getting older. You can eliminate all the old gossips and poseurs without worry or concern.
I will also extend this offer to people on this list, my time is somewhat limited but if you are ever in the Chicago area and would like to see the car you are most welcome. As much notice as possible is appreciated but if I'm not available I might be able to find someone who is.
Kind Regards,
Ron
The car in generally good condition but has been neglected for the past several years, nothing bad, damaging or irreversible but a number of things that need to be attended to in order to attain it's former glory. The car deserves it even if I don't.
The endgame is to make it exactly how it appeared the day it drove out of Westmont.
Suggestions are always welcome as I "think" I know what I am doing..... but thinking and knowing are two different things.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Refurbishment of the 9" and 10" Chrome Plated Penta's.
The car is let down by it's skinny 8" Penta's, fortunately the correct 9" and 10" were included. Originally they were chrome plated so chrome it will be.
I have visually inspected the wheels and found them to be in good condition. I was especially concerned about the mating surface from the wheel nuts to the wheel. My fears proved to be unwarranted as they were fine. The next step is to have them crack tested using Zyglo ZL-56. This will detect any surface cracks that may have appeared during the 27 year life of the wheels. Cost is around $30. per wheel.
If they pass Zyglo they will then be X-Rayed to detect any subsurface cracks. I don't think it's necessary to x-ray all parts since it's quite expensive but wheels are a different story. If a door handle breaks it's not the end of the world. A wheel breaks at speed it's not the end of the world either, it's just the end of your world... cost is around $250. per wheel.
Assuming they pass the NDT (non destructive testing) I will send them off to a chrome plater. I ordered special 18X18X12 double wall 275 lb. test boxes from ULINE to package and ship the wheels. I had to buy 25 but now I have boxes to store my other wheels. The wheels will be packed in 6mil poly bags before boxing and foam insulation will be used as packing material.
Once the plater receives the wheels they will be stripped of the old chrome. After stripping, polishing and buffing they will be copper plated - twice. Copper fills in the microscopic pits and provides a good surface for the nickel. I am assured that they wont buff out the details such as the AMG part number or size. They will be buffed to a high luster after each plating bath.
Once the final layer of copper is completed the wheels will be nickel plated. The bright finish we see on "chrome" is actually highly polished nickel, the chromium is actually a thin coat to protect the nickel.
New anode's will be used for every metal and every wheel every time (OCD rears it's head once again).
Once the plating has been done they will be "baked." "Baking" eliminates hydrogen embrittlement,which is usually not present in aluminum alloy but 1) better safe than sorry or 2) in for a pound, in for a dollar or 3) I really need help with this OCD. I'll leave to reader to answer the question - to themselves....
Cost of plating is a somewhat reasonable $400. per wheel if the estimate is to be believed. I'm sure part of that cost is me being a PITA.
Once the wheels are returned I will shod them with new 255/50/16 tires, not sure of the brand just yet. BF Goodrich g-Force Sport Comp 2 are $135. each from Tire Rack. The only other tires of the proper size are Toyo's. The tires will have matching dates of manufacture (see OCD comment above) and cleaned and dressed prior to installation.
Once installed they will be Road Force balanced with the weights stuck on the inside of the rims per AMG, not the current and widely used practice of clipping the weights on the outside.
With the wheels done and returned I can relax and handle my nuts.
The car has some trick Wilwood brakes which, although not original, I will probably keep as I have the originals on the shelf. As per most racing cars they use studs and nuts instead of wheel bolts.
I refuse to chrome plate them because of the fear of hydrogen embrittlement so I will have them black oxide coated both as a rust preventative and for looks. After B/O coating they will be buffed to a satin luster and powder coated clear. If they made a cashmere lined lug nut wrench I'd probably buy it....
I expect the entire process to take around 45 - 60 days. and cost around $1000. per wheel by the time I get them back on the car.
PICs will be taken every step of the way but keep in mind that due to Global Warming we are having the coldest November in recent history and I really don't want to freeze my FDA (fat dago ass) off. I also have some major surgery set up and there's that little thing called work which seems to interfere with playing with cars so progress may not be as fast as I would like.
I have reached out, and some have reached out to me, to many of the old AMG employees at Westmont. I will try to put together a "reunion" of sorts. Any excuse to get together with fellow car people.
Next step is to reconstruct the high end, for it's day, Nakamichi Stereo System.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This "series" will be exclusive to Gerry's list AKA the 500E Board. I don't really want the drama present on some of the other forums by people who have not taken the time to get to know me but still, somehow, feel the need to make up something both untrue and/or bad. Nor do I particularly want advice, however well intended, from someone who's sole experience in restoration is reading a Better Housekeeping article in their doctors office.
It's one of the benefits of getting older. You can eliminate all the old gossips and poseurs without worry or concern.
I will also extend this offer to people on this list, my time is somewhat limited but if you are ever in the Chicago area and would like to see the car you are most welcome. As much notice as possible is appreciated but if I'm not available I might be able to find someone who is.
Kind Regards,
Ron






