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AMG Meister Details Running Costs of W211k, W212 and CLK63
- Thread starter maw1124
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number 8
has been selected as best answered.
Looks like he does all the work himself. Dealers HATE him!
I wouldn't say it's overkill, it's nice to do on any new used car purchase. Sure he could have postponed that filter or even skipped an oil change on the CLK but for being 10+ years old these cars look to be very well taken care of cosmetically (either that or this really nice camera makes it look that way) so doesn't hurt to keep it up to date mechanically.
I wouldn't say it's overkill, it's nice to do on any new used car purchase. Sure he could have postponed that filter or even skipped an oil change on the CLK but for being 10+ years old these cars look to be very well taken care of cosmetically (either that or this really nice camera makes it look that way) so doesn't hurt to keep it up to date mechanically.
My 05 c55 has had the oil change done every 5k miles and the motor looks brand new internally. I just had it oppened. Had to do valve covers from top and resealed both oilpans from the bottom.
My only issue is hes trying to let people know what it costs to upkeep these cars and its definetly not needed to change the oil every year so the cost hes showing isnt necesarrily true
My only issue is hes trying to let people know what it costs to upkeep these cars and its definetly not needed to change the oil every year so the cost hes showing isnt necesarrily true
Nice, I have a family member who also owns a C55. It’s well over 200k miles
That’s fair, it’s not entirely true but still serves as a high level overview. I’m sure someone watching it who doesn’t perform their own work can figure it out and still use it as a reference point even if they decide to not go the extra mile in terms of maintenance.My only issue is hes trying to let people know what it costs to upkeep these cars and its definetly not needed to change the oil every year so the cost hes showing isnt necesarrily true
I remember watching a video of the rarest AMGs which sounds like the same person, imo that video wasn’t entirely accurate either but at least provided some rough numbers.
I will be attending a technical oil seminar organized by a Tier 1 Motorsport oil Manufacturer, and will discuss the M157 and M156 due to their common issues. I will report on this in a separate thread.
Huge mistakes in the factory oil recommendations and service intervals, and this has contributed to most of the issues faced with these engines.
The servicing process has to be application and country specific, Not a one size fits all.
Huge mistakes in the factory oil recommendations and service intervals, and this has contributed to most of the issues faced with these engines.
The servicing process has to be application and country specific, Not a one size fits all.
I selected Best Answered because I loved the response and can’t agree enough with its premise, even though I don’t recall the question.
. In truth I just wanted to test the functionality.
But I look forward to your report @195910 … I have long suspected MB, BMW and Audi of bolloxing the oil recommendations in road going performance applications, trying to right size the spec. The E46M guys are having a separate thread on “start up routines” that gets to this same issue (there, it’s rod bearing failures that prompt the question), because the oil spec is so heavy (10w60) the small crevices aren’t properly lubricated until the car is at proper temp. I’m tempted to try 5w50, but SoFL.
In my cars, I’ve erred on the light side at the expense of oil consumption, given they are lightly used and changed every 5k miles. Heavier is easier, and I don’t mind topping off as much as I mind metal to metal contact. But I’d appreciate more learned thoughts on the issue.
maw
. In truth I just wanted to test the functionality.But I look forward to your report @195910 … I have long suspected MB, BMW and Audi of bolloxing the oil recommendations in road going performance applications, trying to right size the spec. The E46M guys are having a separate thread on “start up routines” that gets to this same issue (there, it’s rod bearing failures that prompt the question), because the oil spec is so heavy (10w60) the small crevices aren’t properly lubricated until the car is at proper temp. I’m tempted to try 5w50, but SoFL.
In my cars, I’ve erred on the light side at the expense of oil consumption, given they are lightly used and changed every 5k miles. Heavier is easier, and I don’t mind topping off as much as I mind metal to metal contact. But I’d appreciate more learned thoughts on the issue.
maw
E90/91 4.0L V8 are known for the crankshaft bearing failure, and AFAIK these use the Xw40 grade but still have the same issue.I selected Best Answered because I loved the response and can’t agree enough with its premise, even though I don’t recall the question.
But I look forward to your report @195910 … I have long suspected MB, BMW and Audi of bolloxing the oil recommendations in road going performance applications, trying to right size the spec. The E46M guys are having a separate thread on “start up routines” that gets to this same issue (there, it’s rod bearing failures that prompt the question), because the oil spec is so heavy (10w60) the small crevices aren’t properly lubricated until the car is at proper temp. I’m tempted to try 5w50, but SoFL.
In my cars, I’ve erred on the light side at the expense of oil consumption, given they are lightly used and changed every 5k miles. Heavier is easier, and I don’t mind topping off as much as I mind metal to metal contact. But I’d appreciate more learned thoughts on the issue.
maw
I don't think its the oil grade being too heavy, its probably a combination of shear-strength of the oil film and warm-up procedure.
Unfortunately the manufacturers don't care about updating the service procedure, nor issue application/region specific guidelines.
Yes, this is of course the paradox… lighter oil will flow and lubricate more quickly on startup but that comes at the expense of the other characteristics (shear strength, evaporative loss, flash point, viscosity, etc) under max load at high RPM. My mechanic likes to say “just keep that little thing under 7k RPM and you’ll be fine.” Of course he’s probably right but that comes at the expense of it being a BMW
. Lucky for me I’m not a redline junkie so my car almost never sees those RPM, despite all the marketing. As much as I love him I don’t want to pay him to do rod bearings. If I have to I will, but…maw
I'm not familiar with the M156 and M157 engines and their issues, but from a realistic viewpoint the entire car business left the idea about creating long life engines decades ago. The healthy lifespan for a daily driver is approx. 13 years, the mileage may be 250k++ kilometers, the car shows wear & tear, it is technically outdated and depreciating value. The car may still serve very well and has its value for what it is, but from a business perspective and turnover - why should the engine and drivetrain last much longer? It's time to sell you a new car. And the extremely stretched oil change intervals saves a lot of the global oil consume, which is a very important green incentive for the car business to reduce their CO2 footprint.
As for the 211 - I once had an '05 E220T Cdi with 150kkm, complete service records, pristine condition and a very nice driver. But I've never seen a car with such a level of unexpected defects, pretty disappointing for being a high quality brand. Besides from periodic service I did most of the repair myself, also with good advices from the dealer workshop. But I'm sorry to say it was nothing but a moneypit being under repair and standstill for several periods during my 3 years ownership, and it was finally traded in with a huge loss.
As for the 211 - I once had an '05 E220T Cdi with 150kkm, complete service records, pristine condition and a very nice driver. But I've never seen a car with such a level of unexpected defects, pretty disappointing for being a high quality brand. Besides from periodic service I did most of the repair myself, also with good advices from the dealer workshop. But I'm sorry to say it was nothing but a moneypit being under repair and standstill for several periods during my 3 years ownership, and it was finally traded in with a huge loss.
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what are the modern start up routines for the m3 now?I selected Best Answered because I loved the response and can’t agree enough with its premise, even though I don’t recall the question.
But I look forward to your report @195910 … I have long suspected MB, BMW and Audi of bolloxing the oil recommendations in road going performance applications, trying to right size the spec. The E46M guys are having a separate thread on “start up routines” that gets to this same issue (there, it’s rod bearing failures that prompt the question), because the oil spec is so heavy (10w60) the small crevices aren’t properly lubricated until the car is at proper temp. I’m tempted to try 5w50, but SoFL.
In my cars, I’ve erred on the light side at the expense of oil consumption, given they are lightly used and changed every 5k miles. Heavier is easier, and I don’t mind topping off as much as I mind metal to metal contact. But I’d appreciate more learned thoughts on the issue.
maw
For the smart ones, turn the key to ACC, let the fuel pumps prime a second or 2 (and SMG pump if so equipped), start engine, let it run a few mins, keep it below 4K RPM until the warmup lights go off… then drive the car the way the M division intended.
For those begging for a bearing job, start it and go, redlining all the way
maw
For *any* engine, a general rule of thumb is to drive with light throttle as soon as possible after a cold start - no minutes-long idling necessary, but 30 seconds or so to let idle stabilize is ok.
Then keep it below about half throttle and below half of redline until the coolant temp is up to normal (80C). Even better if you have an oil temp gauge and can wait until oil temps are normal too (80-100C). On the M119, that means 3000rpm max until at operating temp.
Then keep it below about half throttle and below half of redline until the coolant temp is up to normal (80C). Even better if you have an oil temp gauge and can wait until oil temps are normal too (80-100C). On the M119, that means 3000rpm max until at operating temp.
