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Anybody run Evans watterlesss in a M119?

Ascension

E420 Guru
Member
Being a 22 year old car the thought of getting the pressure off the system is worth considering. Have some experience with Evans from running hot Pontiac big blocks and also dirt bikes. Back in the late 70's or early 80's they came up with a water pump design the improved cooling on big block high RPM Pontiac motors. Then the stuff I know has been very very effective in off road bike racing. Never changing coolant again, a 300 degree F boiling point, no corrosion issues ever and no pressure in the system make it look inviting. Will have to change my coolant soon so looking hard at the stuff.
Anybody use it??
[video=youtube;CoqxFhNboM4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoqxFhNboM4[/video]
 
I wonder how much it actually increases the cooling capacity. If our systems never get to the boiling point, is it even an issue?
 
I've heard about it, but not sure if I like it for the following reasons:

If your car is running hot, there's probably an issue with it that has nothing to do with the type of coolant so while this may work, it will mask the true problem.
You have to flush all the water out to use it so If you ever find yourself needing to add coolant in an emergency situation. You'l have flush again which sounds like a big waste of money.
 
My car has never gotten oveer 90 C since I have owned it so no heating issue. It's simply due for a coolant change and this stuff looks interesting. Never change it again as it does not break down over time, takes all the pressure off the system because it boils at over 300 degrees F , is non corrosive so stops any deterioration of the system in it's tracks, so looks inviting. The down sides are expense ( Just under $100 is what I am counting on to do the swap myself that's the prep and the coolant + a new thermostat ) and if some thing did happen and you lost coolant may have to do a refill with conventional as it's not that easy to find.
The reason I am looking is what i have seen in dirt bikes + videos like this that are all over the net on the stuff. My son is also booking at it for his hot Ford 6.0 Diesels that are dropping 500 + to the wheels.

My biggest question is on heat transfer as it likely will not transfer quite as well as conventional coolant in a really high heat environment but with a boil temp up so high also will not steam pocket like a conventional coolant will if it does hit say 110 C or so. That's the unknown here what will it run on a hot day with Evans and with a compression ratio this high will I see issues if it runs say 100 to 110?

[video=youtube;WPatIQQHqqI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPatIQQHqqI[/video]
 
My biggest question is on heat transfer as it likely will not transfer quite as well as conventional coolant in a really high heat environment ....
That was my concern as well... seems that is one possible drawback with Evans is reduced thermal transfer. This may not be an issue unless you are allergic to temp gauge readings north of ~100C.

:wormhole:
 
I've been told by a Tech I trust that all of this stuff just puts off overheating if you have a cooling problem. It's kind of like a bandaid. Better off attacking the problem than veiling it.

The other reasons Ascension has already stated. PITA if caught out with coolant loss. Stick with what works and fix any coolant system items required. No need if system working properly.
 
You can always experiment... and let us know.

I don't like using something like that which is expensive. I figure, my luck something will happen and $100 gone quickly. If it transfers less heat per specific volume- I would avoid it. If the factory radiator/tstat/fan clutch and water pump are tight(system bleed)- there won't be any issue.

Non corrosive? G05 unless you leave it in too long- it is ph buffered to be neutral (ph=7.0).

Michael
 
This is an ongoing debate on the RX7club forums.

The general consensus is if you're cooling system is truly functional and performing well, there is no need, UNLESS you are racing/tracking your vehicle a lot and you want the added benefit of running a zero pressure system that can take a lot o heat with little circulation.

:-) neil
 
The general consensus is if you're cooling system is truly functional and performing well, there is no need, UNLESS you are racing/tracking your vehicle a lot and you want the added benefit of running a zero pressure system that can take a lot o heat with little circulation.
Neil, I was thinking the same thing. Evans may be preferred in a race environment for the zero-pressure advantage. No worry about hoses blowing under pressure and spraying liquid on the track, making your competitors very unhappy if they spin off due to your spillage.

I'm still not convinced it's really needed for normal street use in most environments.

:scratchchin:
 
No experience with Evans, but I run now for years the "No Rosion - Hyperkuhl" in my bikes and Cars...
The R129 totally with reverse osmosis (RO) water and Hyperkuhl.. runs cooler and after 2years no colour change of the Water too
 
This is an ongoing debate on the RX7club forums.

The general consensus is if you're cooling system is truly functional and performing well, there is no need, UNLESS you are racing/tracking your vehicle a lot and you want the added benefit of running a zero pressure system that can take a lot o heat with little circulation.

:-) neil
My car has never had any problems with overheating so that is not an issue. What has me intrigued however is the no corrosion no pressure aspect of using this stuff. That + the super high boiling point and fact that it is more stable where it's needed most right around the hot spots in the heads and cylinder tops so should be better long term for the engine. Only down sides would be heat transfer and maybe a slight tick up on a super hot day with the air running + the issue of not being able to replace it easily if there was a failure and leak. With no pressure in the system to speak of question is how likely is that to happen? This leaves the single issue of how much hotter will it run in a M119 or will it run hotter at all?
Got really interested in this stuff when I was looking at building a turbo White Block Volvo 6 for my V90. I know some of those castings had a issue with porous blocks developing over the years under the exhaust manifold from coolant corrosion if not properly maintained. With that known issue getting most of the pressure off that system was appealing. On the 420 it's long term stability and no maintenance that I am looking at.
 

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