Anyone using water filter rinse system?

[JC220]

Hi all,

Cer washing season is coming again and it's got me thinking about adding a water filter system which is designed to allow rinsing of the car and no need to dry it after.

Aka any minerals in the tap water are removed so as no water staining/ spotting occurs.

Almost seems too good to be true- but if it works will save alot of time and chamois micro swirls etc in the paint.


That particular filter appears reasonably priced at about £55gbp.

You would connect this to your garden hose only for the last rinse along with a low pressure spray head. (Would be a waste of the filter if you plugged it into your pressure washer etc)

Have any members used such a system?

Does the paint dry clean and spot free?

Is it better to use an air blower also to remove the bulk of the rinse water after?

 

[LWB250]

Send me £55 and I'll tell you how to do it without spots.

I've been washing cars for upwards of 50 years, and I've never had a problem with water spots. That's because I do the following:

1.) Never wash a car in direct sunlight.
2.) Never wash a car with a finish that's been heated up in the sun. It should be cool to the touch before you start washing.
3.) Use a quality car wash product.
4.) Immediately dry the car upon finishing the washing process. If it's breezy or you're concerned about it drying before you can get it dried yourself, move it inside.
5.) Dry glass surfaces first.

I use high quality 100% cotton bath towels to dry my cars. I fold one in half, lay it down on the hood or boot lid, and pull it across the surface the length of the car, sort of like a towel "squeegee". Flip over, do the same on the other half of the car. Toss it aside and get another towel, folded in quarters, and start going over the horizontal surfaces to get any remaining water off. Then I go after the doors and fenders. Lastly, I open the doors and dry the jambs and rockers.

I have two 040 cars, a finish that is unforgiving when it comes to any sort of spots, defects, dust, you name it. Both cars look just fine.

My Dad, an executive vice president at General Motors and a hard core car guy, was big on chamois. I hated those things, and they were a PITA to use. I went to the towel approach some years back and have never looked back.

Dan

 

[JC220]

Thanks for that LWB250 I agree with everything you say.

I may have confused this thread by mentioning an air dryer.

For clarity, what I mean here is to wash the car, rinse it off with the filtered water and NOT dry the car at all. Allow the dry to dry itself with no contact with the paint and it will be spot free finish.

 

[JC220]

Go straight to 29 minute mark as as example here and see the results and comparison with normal unfiltered water

 

[Glen]

I diy'd my system. I started with a food grade 55 gallon polyethylene barrel, a small float valve, RV style 120V on demand water pump, a reverse osmosis system, and a 50 foot retractable hose reel. It works well but honestly, I don't use it that often because if you follow Dan's advice it's really not needed. Also, 55 gallons is really overkill and if I were doing it again, I think 15 to 25 gallons would be more than enough.

 

[LWB250]

If I had some major league garage queen that I cared for, maybe, just maybe I could see it. But for any car I've ever owned, my method has been more than adequate (for me.) Stuff like this makes me think about the high end stereo people who spend hundreds of dollars for special little supports to hold their speaker wires off the floor for fear them being in contact with anything would somehow alter the impedance.

What's more important, I believe, is making sure the *whole* exterior of the car is cleaned. For example, around the door edges and the door jambs. How many people wash/wax those? You should wash all the way up to wherever the seals are, as well as underneath the doors. Make sure the drain holes are clear. I spent a good 20 minutes the other day when detailing the new E320 cleaning the "gutter" below the rear window that's covered by the trunk lid. It was dirty as heck, but it's not now. And in the future it's a quick run of a washcloth through it and it will stay clean.

Hood hinge "pockets" are another one that I go nuts over. There's a drain down there that's likely clogged with years of detritus. I have 12" long bamboo kitchen skewers I use to clean those areas out - first when dry with a vacuum cleaner and using the skewer to agitate everything so the vacuum will get it, then after washing using a hose and the skewer again (if necessary) to clear anything that's in or around the drain. I use the skewers because they're cheap, flexible and won't damage painted parts.

There's nothing that makes me crazier than to look in an engine compartment and see leaves and stuff in the cavities below the brake booster.

Dan

 

[maw1124]

Funny that this should come up today, as I’ve been looking at my door jams in the 55 (now that I’m driving it) thinking “WTF is THAT?!?! I really need to get to that.” Well today was the day I got to that, and the inside windows, including front, back and sunroof, and the dash, and the rear deck, and all around the insides of the doors, behind the weather stripping, you get my drift. All better now. Tomorrow might see leather and vinyl, along with tail pipes and wheels. We’ll see how my workday goes. Driving with the car wide open, grime just accumulates in the rear seats, as my convertible has taught me.

I agree with all that @LWB250 has said, and he taught me a couple things. First, we’ll see if my wife lets me get away with bath towels. I use the microfiber rags, but they don’t cover as much, and wringing them out gets to be a workout (not that I can’t use it). I first saw that method used at EAG (Enthusiast Auto) when I went to test drive an M3. It had rained 5 minutes before I arrived, and I watched them have that thing showroom fresh in 5 minutes with those rags. I never forgot it, as you can see.

Second, I need to do windows first. Somehow I’d gotten into the habit of doing them last, with windex and their own microfiber, and now with those new spray window cleaner wax products. It makes windows their own process (with mirrors and door handles, gage cluster, and interior chrome) which is oddly satisfying. Again, I have issues.

I also agree that’s plenty of cleaning for any machine. After all, I’m human and they are inanimate objects. They and my golf clubs generally outlast any need I have for them under this regime, which means I’m using, storing, or passing along some pristine object to the next user, which is just fine for me in all cases.

But some time this week I DO need to get to the engine bay… and a new coat of Turtle Wax Ice… … I know, I have issues. But no, I won’t be filtering water.

Cheers Gents,

maw

 

[TerryA]

I wash my car about once a year. Mostly I use Meguires Ultimate wax for black and dark colored cars. From there forward it’s always been a car duster and Meguires Ultimate Detailer.

I’m in the process of re-waxing my car since it has sat in the garage for 3+years. I’m half done and it looks as good as ever.

PS: I think I’m out of luck with the black wax when I run out so I’ll be changing some methods in the future.

I will not be using filtered water. I like the hands on approach albeit I do not have JC’s fleet to deal with.

Joe has so many cars that he could spend a day just filling them with petrol.

 

[JC220]

I wash my car about once a year. Mostly I use Meguires Ultimate wax for black and dark colored cars. From there forward it’s always been a car duster and Meguires Ultimate Detailer.

I’m in the process of re-waxing my car since it has sat in the garage for 3+years. I’m half done and it looks as good as ever.

PS: I think I’m out of luck with the black wax when I run out so I’ll be changing some methods in the future.

I will not be using filtered water. I like the hands on approach albeit I do not have JC’s fleet to deal with.

Joe has so many cars that he could spend a day just filling them with petrol.

Yes you have the idea Terry! It takes me too long already per car obsessing over proper detailing level washing.

I also proactively try to do contactless washing (successfully) on some of my cars occasionally.

This method of using filtered water which self dries crystal clear on the car bodywork would be a huge time saver for me when trying to wash several cars on an evening or weekend.

 

[LWB250]

@maw1124 - don’t swipe towels out of the linen closet - go out and buy some for the garage. You only need a few.

And buy good quality towels, 100% cotton, with no synthetic fibers whatsoever. I say that because some manufacturers will use synthetic fibers to stitch the edges. Not sure? Pull the thread and put a lighter to it. If it melts rather than burns, it’s synthetic.

Those synthetic threads can scratch your finish.

I have car was towels that are 20 years old. It’s not tough service, so they’ll last a long time.

Dan

 

[maw1124]

Yeah, she likes to throw the old ones away without me knowing, lest I use them for just such a thing. They’ll be car towels, golf towels, extra towels, just because towels, nothing towels…

maw

 

[kegmankipp]

I’ve found that once my cars have been waxed, preferably with ceramic or hybrid ceramic varieties that I can just use my large Makita 36V leaf blower. In 8-10 minutes I’d guess that 99% of the water is gone including all the crevices that towels won’t reach. And no scratches from towels.

 

[dionphaneuf]

+1 to @kegmankipp . My younger brother is a professional detailer and swears by that approach; I originally thought ceramic coatings were the latest/greatest fad but they've lasted long enough in the detailing space to make me think they're worth the cost. Just don't be *that guy* in your neighborhood using your 120 dB backpack leaf blower at 6AM or 9PM on a Sunday.

 

[LWB250]

I could see this.

One thing I like about hand drying: I get to see every square inch of the car's surface, for the most part. It lets me see any defects or issues that might be occurring or exist on the exterior of the car.

I'm sure some people think I'm nuts, but one of my favorite things to do to a car I'm considering for purchase is to wash it. There's no better way to see every little defect or ding on a car than by going over the surface by hand.

I'm not big on ceramic or other sorts of coatings. It's tough to weed out the quality products from the chaff, and for the cost I'm not sure they're worth it. I prefer to use a high quality carnauba wax and do it based the condition of the finish. In Florida that means 2-3 times a year if the car is garaged, more often if not.

Detailing is like motor oil. Everyone has their personal preference based on whatever information or experience they have. I respect that and certainly don't claim to be anything remotely close to an expert. I do what I've found works best for me and meets my expectations, but I'm always interested to see and hear what others are doing and add that into my collective knowledge.

Here's one for the group:

Black trim. Ugh. Tough to maintain, rarely looks good for long due to exposure to the sun/elements and the degradation of plastics. Having cars in a climate like Florida exacerbates things significantly, so I've long been on the search for a product that makes it look good for a reasonable period of time and ideally protects it. I've got a bunch of containers on the shelf of various products for this, none of which have bene that great.

I'm working with something new of late, and the initial results have been pleasing. Long term will tell, but so far I like it.

Gtechniq - C4 Permanent Trim Restorer

It's pricey but covers a fair amount of real estate. On the W164 there is black plastic trim that covers the rocker panels, and as one might expect, it gets dull and chalky-looking over time. I tried some of this trim restorer and was quite impressed with the results. Again, the real test is in how long it lasts, but the initial results are pleasing. I'll report back as it ages.

Dan

 

[JC220]

@LWB250 If you are ever holidaying in Ireland give me a shout please as I know of a small fleet of motely MBs will be for sale all of a sudden

 

[kwontumspeed]

Speaking of water and washing cars, anyone use ONR (Optimum No Rinse)?

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine - New Formula!

Try No Rinse Wash & Shine 8oz* RISK FREE with FREE SHIPPING and a 100% MONEY BACK GUARANTEE! Optimum No Rinse™ Wash &a

optimumcarcare.com

I live in a high rise in the city with covered & secured parking spots for my fleet. I do have options if I really want to wash cars 'traditionally' but this product has made things very convenient coupled with the ceramic options discussed in the other thread. I don't drive the 036 in rain, and rarely drive at all unless road tripping or visiting family/friends in the burbs, so my cars don't generally get that dirty.

 

[Jlaa]

I’ve found that once my cars have been waxed, preferably with ceramic or hybrid ceramic varieties that I can just use my large Makita 36V leaf blower. In 8-10 minutes I’d guess that 99% of the water is gone including all the crevices that towels won’t reach. And no scratches from towels.

+1 to @kegmankipp . My younger brother is a professional detailer and swears by that approach; I originally thought ceramic coatings were the latest/greatest fad but they've lasted long enough in the detailing space to make me think they're worth the cost. Just don't be *that guy* in your neighborhood using your 120 dB backpack leaf blower at 6AM or 9PM on a Sunday.

+1 on @kegmankipp and @dionphaneuf approach. In my case I use a corded blower (lots and lots of CFM and MPH). Toro PowerJet F700 140 MPH 725 CFM 12 Amp Electric Handheld Leaf Blower 51624 I also wear ear protection.



Also - I have never washed my hobby cars. Also no weather. Only quick detailer after drives. No need for ceramic. Also I do not have the dedication that @LWB250 has so no black cars for me. I use the leaf blower to wash my well waxed daily driver.

 

[gsxr]

I lack even a fraction of @LWB250's dedication, and need the longest-lasting solution for our daily drivers (all lighter colors except one). I really need to look into this ceramic stuff, or at least one of the recent ceramic hybrid sprays from Turtle or Megiue... Megwire... Meg's.

 

[LWB250]

I lack even a fraction of @LWB250's dedication, and need the longest-lasting solution for our daily drivers (all lighter colors except one). I really need to look into this ceramic stuff, or at least one of the recent ceramic hybrid sprays from Turtle or Megiue... Megwire... Meg's.

That's why it's called "detailing".

Dan

 

[nocfn]

we have pretty hard water here in Texas. I use an inline RV water filter to pull out the calcium and other items in the water. I have to change it out every few months but the soft water makes a difference in my opinion. Agree that one should not wash a car in the sun or when the paint is hot to the touch.

 

[LWB250]

we have pretty hard water here in Texas. I use an inline RV water filter to pull out the calcium and other items in the water. I have to change it out every few months but the soft water makes a difference in my opinion. Agree that one should not wash a car in the sun or when the paint is hot to the touch.

Definitely. The house we had in Indiana had hardness in the 20+ grain range. You would get spots on just about anything if the water got on it. I can completely understand this. Thankfully, the W210 I had for a driver there was champagne and got washed in a local "touchless" car wash when it needed it.

Dan