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OWNER ArauzMotoring

ArauzMotoring

E500E Enthusiast
Member
Hello everyone! I'm Erick!

I've been lusting after a big body benz for quite some time. Doing research led me to discover the 500E, and what a special vehicle it is. Fate led me to asking a business contact about knowing if any were for sale and he mentioned having this one sitting in his warehouse. We negotiated back and forth, and I received her in Miami a few weeks ago now.

She arrived with 222,9xx miles on the odometer.
I am the fourth owner.

I am glad to have found some of you guys commenting on BAT auctions and so now I've been lurking and reading as much as I could regarding my new MB, and been ordering tons of parts for servicing her.

Thanks for reading!
 

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Hi Erick,

:welcome: It’s nice to see a new face with a new 500E ride. You can find pretty much all available help and info about you car here. There are many knowledgeable and talented folks here willing to help if you need it.

As far as revealing your VIN, it a way of tracking and documenting these cars. A lot of Owners document all work done on their cars here. Your car may already be in the system. If so it may have some history that provides what work has been performed in the past as well as previous ownership.

Anyway, Enjoy Your New Ride
 
Hi Erick,

:welcome: It’s nice to see a new face with a new 500E ride. You can find pretty much all available help and info about you car here. There are many knowledgeable and talented folks here willing to help if you need it.

As far as revealing your VIN, it a way of tracking and documenting these cars. A lot of Owners document all work done on their cars here. Your car may already be in the system. If so it may have some history that provides what work has been performed in the past as well as previous ownership.

Anyway, Enjoy Your New Ride
Thanks!

I was just being lazy at the time since i didn't have the vin on hand.

Just pulled it up;

WDBEA36EXPB916656

Thanks for the kind welcome y'all!
 
Here is the previous "for sale" thread on your car with some history from 2017-2018:


:matrix:
 
After reading the thread from 3 years ago... do you have any smell of gasoline inside the car? If so, that needs to be addressed ASAP. Maybe it was fixed already.

:duck:
 
Here is the previous "for sale" thread on your car with some history from 2017-2018:


:matrix:
Thanks, just saw it! Basically everything checks out from the story the guy I bought it from told me. I put the car on a friend's lift and i did notice slight rust under the battery tray, I'm gonna try and have that fixed with some POR15 or something.

The transmission was rebuilt at some point, the upper wiring harness was replaced and the receipts showed the previous owners spent money when needed.

I've been shopping for parts and researching here and i do thank you guys for being meticulous with these cars.

I'm amazed at the condition the interior is, especially for the mileage.

I bought some tune up goodies from Mercedes-Benz in Miami and really blind sided me in regards to how much these are to upkeep versus the japanese cars I've been around most of my life.

Where do you guys host build threads on here?
 

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Thanks, just saw it! Basically everything checks out from the story the guy I bought it from told me. I put the car on a friend's lift and i did notice slight rust under the battery tray, I'm gonna try and have that fixed with some POR15 or something.
The internal tray unbolts, remove that for further inspection. Worst case you may need to have the external metal cut out and a clean piece welded in. Use an AGM battery and add an external vent tube to prevent this from recurring.


I bought some tune up goodies from Mercedes-Benz in Miami and really blind sided me in regards to how much these are to upkeep versus the japanese cars I've been around most of my life.
Eeeek. Is it too late to cancel or change that order? Some of those items you simply should not need and I would not use some of the brands selected. Click here for details on brands, you don't want most all of those Febi items. :eek:



Where do you guys host build threads on here?
Just post everything here in your OWNER thread.


I don't smell gas when I'm inside the car. 🤔
That's a relief. However, you should check the vent valve underneath the tank on the driver side. If it's not new, replace it (click here), see post #12. Ditto for the high-pressure fuel hose exiting the filter, if it's not recent OE/Genuine, replace it with only OE/Genuine.
 
Hello Erick. I am in Miami too (Miami Beach) and based on some of your Wynwood photos it seems that we may circle around the same cars and coffee from time to time. My 124036 is in the shop undergoing mild restoration, but we should meet on the next CnC. I also have some used Carlsson 18" wheels that may go well with your car. Send me a PM and we can exchange contact information and welcome to ownership.

Best,

JAB
 
Oh man ..... please reconsider using Febi anything, particularly subframe bushings, unless you want to do that job twice.

Corteco is also quite inconsistent.... please consider MB or Victor Reinz for rubber seals.
 
Oh man ..... please reconsider using Febi anything, particularly subframe bushings, unless you want to do that job twice.

Corteco is also quite inconsistent.... please consider MB or Victor Reinz for rubber seals.
If you have a choice between Victor Reinz and Elring or MB seals/gaskets, ALWAYS choose Elring or MB. Reinz is not as good as Elring for the same item.
 
Febi SLS fluid is Ok though. And sometimes, just sometimes, if you are lucky, you can find things like MB driveshaft bushings [flex discs] with the star ground off, repackaged in a Febi box. Search is your friend.
 
Would this be okay to use?

I bought the timing belt chain and guide kit of fcp euro, i figured if they have it it may be worth trying, plus they warranty their stuff... But when i un packed my order I noticed the guide rail said made in china.

The febi chain box says made in Germany with karts from Germany.

Am i okay with the corteco accumulators?

Most of the ignition stuff i got from the Mercedes Benz dealer.



I also got the first oil change in my ownership done at about 224200 miles last week with genuine Mercedes synthetic oil.. 😂 next time I think I'll try enos or royal purple or something.

Just realized that the timing chain guide kit was sold as oem Mercedes Benz yet some of the parts were wrapped in febi plastic and some of parts was just thrown in the box ..
 

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I wouldn't use any timing chain rail made in China. Genuine MB only, but that's just me. The OE chain rails are very reasonably priced (much more so than the ignition parts from the dealer!).

See if the timing chain is Iwis brand or not. Corteco accumulators should be ok. Oil viscosity & change interval is more important than brand, but read the forum oil threads if you dare.

Open that Febi box with the subframe mount kit, and see if the rubber mounts are Boge or not. If actually made in Germany, they should be reboxed OEM. Maybe you'll get lucky.

:pc1:
 
Hey Hey,

Glad to see you made it here, great group of people and community.

This car is in amazing condition for the milage and pretty much best driver car I have seen for under $20k.

I had the car for couple of years and wanted to build it to my spec and it sat for longest time, I never posted the car for sale and he kept asking if I still have her and finally said he wants it and we made a deal. It runs and drives better than my LTD with 78k kilometer. I decided to sell it and picked up my second LTD.

Enjoy the car.
 
Hey Hey,

Glad to see you made it here, great group of people and community.

This car is in amazing condition for the milage and pretty much best driver car I have seen for under $20k.

I had the car for couple of years and wanted to build it to my spec and it sat for longest time, I never posted the car for sale and he kept asking if I still have her and finally said he wants it and we made a deal. It runs and drives better than my LTD with 78k kilometer. I decided to sell it and picked up my second LTD.

Enjoy the car.
Thanks again Sean!! She's a pleasure to drive! Once i get the ignition system sorted out and other small things I'm sure I'll be more in love than I am now, haha. Appreciate it!
 
Erick,

It does say Boge but to me at least that doesn’t look new :( With that crack in the rubber already I would be looking to return it. Even the metal looks dirty like it’s already been mounted.

That’s just my opinion others may be OK w/ it.
Thanks, that's what I thought when i opened the package, looks rather dry and dirty. The fact that it said BOGE was nice, but again, thanks for the tip.
 
I saw that too, but I don't think it's a crack... looks like an imperfection in the rubber during the molding process. However if it is actually cracked, that would be bizarre. From the one photo I don't think they've been installed. Boge is the correct OEM.

Where did you buy them from, btw?
 
I saw that too, but I don't think it's a crack... looks like an imperfection in the rubber during the molding process. However if it is actually cracked, that would be bizarre. From the one photo I don't think they've been installed. Boge is the correct OEM.

Where did you buy them from, btw?
FCP euro. I posted the screen shots above of everything I ordered from them. The timing chain guide is allegedly OEM MB according to them.
 
FCP euro. I posted the screen shots above of everything I ordered from them. The timing chain guide is allegedly OEM MB according to them.
The timing chain plastic guide rails should have MB Star logo and MB part numbers on the rails, if actually OEM. If so, the COO printed on the label may be wrong. But if any rail is labeled China and there are no MB logo or p/n... that ain't OEM.
 
Hey guys!

I brought my car to my trusted friend and mechanic, and he's been chipping away at the car and he downloaded the service manual for the timing chain service.

I ordered a new Mahle/ Behr radiator

It turns out i ordered a complete timing chain kit, and then i proceeded to order a timing guide kit when the timing chain kit included the guides.

The good news is that the febi timing chain kit box states made in Germany so that's good.

Now at this point, my friend brought this liece to my attention, and i was wondering if you guys can identify and perhaps help me track down where to get this. Particularly that the line that goes into it doesn't really seem to want to be re applied

Also- if i order engine mounts from MB parts online, is there a different PN for either side? Or just order quantity of 2?

Should I order the rear transmission mount as well? Thanks!
 

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1) The item in your photo is a reservoir to collect coolant weeping from the water pump shaft "drip hole". This can be deleted if needed. The part is NLA from MB, and later models eliminated the reservoir entirely.

2) Just because the Febi box says Made in Germany, doesn't mean every part in the "kit" is made in Germany. Check the plastic rails for MB logos and part numbers, if not present, they should be ground off. If there's no numbers and no grinding, the plastic rails are not OEM.

3) Please don't put that $20 Rein Chinese lower radiator hose on your car. If the old one is undamaged, re-use it. If it needs replacement, buy OE/dealer only.

4) The thermostat in your cart is not correct for your car. The pictures shows a 1995-up t-stat. Search the forum for correct part numbers, this has been discussed many times.

5) Engine mounts are the same for both sides, 124-240-26-17, qty 2. Get OE/dealer unless you want to repeat the job in a few years. There's a reason why the OE mounts are $200/ea from discount dealers while ÜRO is $30/ea.

6) You can inspect the transmission mount, if it's collapsed or original, a new one would be a good idea. 140-240-03-18 is ~$90 from discount dealers.

7) With the front balancer removed, the car is getting a new front crank seal, correct?

8) New Behr Pro-series radiator is a very good idea. For the upper radiator hose, OE/dealer only...


trans_mount_V8_140-240-03-18.jpg
 


1) Thanks!

2) I'm fairly sure when i checked over both kits one set had numbers on them.

3) Check attached

4) Sucks i can't use it. I was counting on FCP to be better with their catalogue, i guess it's my fault for being order happy without due diligence. The Borg warner thermostat is a beauty. Wonder what the correct one is going to look like!

5) Thanks! The car felt solid, and I'm sure it was done at some point. However now that my car is under the knife again, i ordered oem ones. Hopefully they get here soon!

6) Ordered it as welll

7) Yeah, just ordered a oem front crank shaft seal too!

8 Sweet!

Sorry for the over exposed image of the parts i ordered from fcp lol.
 

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I'm happy you guys are so knowledgeable with these cars! I picked up the original MB parts as recommend above, and work is underway.
Screenshot_20210311-214442~2.png

I purchased a set of wheels from Latvia that i am in love with... I kinda jumped into thinking i would find wider Michelin tires but i was wrong. Also, while the rebuild may have affected the offset to be lower, the face of the wheel sits too close to the hub and so the brakes rub. 😢

Specs are
Screenshot_20210312-013549~2.png

I have seen some 245 and 225 advan tires, as well as bf Goodrich, and Pirelli options. I was hoping to stick with the fat quare profile of the stock set up- albeit with wider tires. I love the 55 series sidewall, also. Should i stretch the factory size Michelin tires on these wheels? Lol

And then i need help figuring out which spacers and bolts or lug nuts to order. I've been reading here and it looks like H&R spacers would be good. From my rough measurements, the oem wheels has about 2" of materials from behind the face of the wheel, the Lorinser wheels have about an inch and a bit more.

My friend was able to get the engine into time and used some tools to keep the cams in place. He started cleaning up many years worth of grime and oil leak build up..

I'm so stoked to be resto modding this thing!

Thanks for reading!

Oh and here are some pictures i took before i dropped it off for service!
IMG_20210414_090329_985.jpg AZ303768 (1).jpg
 

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I came across a set of wheels I've always loved. I hope they will clear the brakes..

Oh, and also found a set of SLS H&R springs and B8 Bilstein front shocks.



I ordered new shock boots, bump stops already, but I'm trying to find s good source for #3 pads up front and #1 for the rear. No clue about what's on there currently.
 

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Well i was hoping someone would chime in and confirm they'll fit, but i guess I'll have to wait and see 😂.

Also probably went ahead and did something you guys may frown upon..

Camber King Mercedes Rear Camber/Caster/Toe/Thrust Arm set.

Two oem shock boots, and front bump stops. By Hamburg-Technic.
 

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Well i was hoping someone would chime in and confirm they'll fit, but i guess I'll have to wait and see 😂.
The hub mounting plate on the BSS wheels is not as shallow as in the Lorinser wheels, they ‘might’ work, but how much did the Lorinser wheels rub on the calipers? Did the rubbing prevent the wheels to be mounted to begin with?
 
The hub mounting plate on the BSS wheels is not as shallow as in the Lorinser wheels, they ‘might’ work, but how much did the Lorinser wheels rub on the calipers? Did the rubbing prevent the wheels to be mounted to begin with?
Well for sure I was silly for not including measurements. The brake caliper hit the back of the wheel as soon as I lined it up. we tried stacking 5mm spacers my friend had around the shop and after three, where the brakes would seem to not hit, the stock bolts wouldn't thread deep enough. Funny enough factory 500e wheels are et34 while the Lorinser are et35 so i don't know what to say there lol.

I was considering H&R spacers, but after i buy those I'm wondering what kind /length bolts I'd need to get also.
 
Mount the BBS wheels and see what’s what. If they also can’t clear the front calipers, but are better than Lorinser, then you might need 15 mm spacers for either wheels and these guys seem to have good spacers and the bolts to go with them. https://spurverbreiterung.de/en/ Our 036 member used these guys for his 20 mm spacers with their bolts and has been happy.
 
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Well i was hoping someone would chime in and confirm they'll fit, but i guess I'll have to wait and see 😂.

Also probably went ahead and did something you guys may frown upon.. Camber King Mercedes Rear Camber/Caster/Toe/Thrust Arm set.
What are you trying to accomplish with the adjustable rear links? If you don't have an alignment tech that can dial those in perfectly, you're going to cause problems. In general, the only mod possibly needed is adjustable camber link, to reduce wear on the inside of the tires if using much wider than stock wheels (like, 9.5-10.0 inch rears with 275-285 tires). Otherwise, all stock links are more than adequate for both street and light track use.


Well for sure I was silly for not including measurements. The brake caliper hit the back of the wheel as soon as I lined it up. we tried stacking 5mm spacers my friend had around the shop and after three, where the brakes would seem to not hit, the stock bolts wouldn't thread deep enough. Funny enough factory 500e wheels are et34 while the Lorinser are et35 so i don't know what to say there lol.
Offset has NOTHING to do with caliper clearance. This is dictated by the shape/location of the spokes relative to the mounting flange.



Hamburg Tech is cheap Chinese made junk. I would not put this on your car. Just get the dealer part.
Yep. Hamburg is up there with ÜRO. The Genuine MB parts are not expensive, and will last another 20 years. Besides, the correct .036 strut stop buffers are unique to the .036 chassis and not available from ANY aftermarket company, only from the dealer. The foam is stiffer and the total length is shorter. The Hamburg foams you purchased are incorrect and should not be installed.

:yayo:
 
What are you trying to accomplish with the adjustable rear links? If you don't have an alignment tech that can dial those in perfectly, you're going to cause problems. In general, the only mod possibly needed is adjustable camber link, to reduce wear on the inside of the tires if using much wider than stock wheels (like, 9.5-10.0 inch rears with 275-285 tires). Otherwise, all stock links are more than adequate for both street and light track use.



Offset has NOTHING to do with caliper clearance. This is dictated by the shape/location of the spokes relative to the mounting flange.




Yep. Hamburg is up there with ÜRO. The Genuine MB parts are not expensive, and will last another 20 years. Besides, the correct .036 strut stop buffers are unique to the .036 chassis and not available from ANY aftermarket company, only from the dealer. The foam is stiffer and the total length is shorter. The Hamburg foams you purchased are incorrect and should not be installed.

:yayo:
Thanks again fellas!!

I ordered the camber King parts cause i like the bling factor, and although H&R springs won't lower the rear so much, i noticed the camber spread on my car has the rear wheels with more negative camber than the fronts have. My friend sends all his customer cars to apex alignments and they usually set up cars really nicely. I digress, ideally, I'd like to have the rear wheels/tires have less negative camber than the fronts.
Regarding the bump stops, i need to learn my lesson when ordering on eBay, i messaged the seller and they told me these were correct for the car as well as labeling them as oem Mercedes bump stops. Smh
 
Regarding the bump stops, i need to learn my lesson when ordering on eBay, i messaged the seller and they told me these were correct for the car as well as labeling them as oem Mercedes bump stops. Smh
eBay sellers are often clueless and think all 124 chassis use the same parts. Use the EPC to get the correct part numbers, then you can do a reverse lookup to find out if a part is 036-specific.

Now, if those stop buffers (er, "bump stops") were labeled as "OEM", and/or the seller did not disclose the brand name, that's straight fraud.

In general, don't buy parts on eBay unless it's something very specific you cannot purchase ANYWHERE else. Like a recently-NLA item where an eBay seller may have some old stock on the shelf. Otherwise, you'll end up with more bad experiences like this.

:mushroom:
 
Thanks again! It's been an expensive learning experience, but in happy about resto modding this car.

My friend told me i need to get some items, and he explained them to me, but i went down for pictures and hope you gentlemen can help me out.

This piece DSC_0661.JPG
It goes i believe, over the oil pick up tube in the oil pan, i think the mesh materials saved my engine from destruction. The mesh is still on the car, but I'm wondering what P/N this piece is to order it.

Secondly on the passenger side cylinder head, there's some sort of ventilatorDSC_0670.JPG
That connects to that year drop flange thingy. The rubber is hard, and it connects to the valve cover
DSC_0666.JPG

As far as the previous reply, I ordered oem bump stops at the dealership, and they are a good amount stiffer than the ebay ones, so i returned those thankfully.

I also bought new brake rotors and factory brake pads.

I already have brake fluid, and now I'm debating whether to buy stainless steel brake lines as well.

Further, I'm hoping to be able to return the factory spark plugs wires components and buy a ready to drop in set... Kinda wanting a thicker gauge hot rod version, but those are like 600$ from Japan...

Still need to test the BBS wheels, hope they fit lol.
 
The oil sump rubber pickup / boot is 110-186-00-07 and doesn't include the screen.

The ventilator is 2 pieces, the rubber funnel is 119-016-01-81, the plastic bracket is 119-010-00-62.

If you want stainless brake hoses, get Deerfield Precision hoses.

Don't waste money on thicker/custom plug wires. The Japan stuff just lightens their wallets IMO. Get the Beru kit described here.

:spend:
 
There is a HOW-TO on replacing the oilpan pickup and mesh screen.

The ventilator for the passenger side cylinder head is also covered in multiple threads here on the forum, most recently in my Top-End Refresh thread from last year, in the Project Journals sub-forum.

Agree 100% with the @gsxr on getting the Beru wire set -- available via Partsgeek.com for the best price.

Also agree on the Deerfield Precision brake lines.

Everything is detailed here on the forum.
 
Hey fellas!

Some progress!!

And I plead for your assistance!

My friend has taken the engine apart, and since i didn't get the parts to split the timing chain, and my chain came as one piece, he had to remove the front cover.DSC_1035.JPG

I need to figure out what the part numbers are for the 4 o rings on this cover, and I want to replace that oil pump chain tensioner as well. The tensioners that went in had the MB star molded on them.DSC_1037.JPG
I will get slack, but I don't regret going with uro aluminum oil squirters. This is the new Timing chain and my guy is planning on doing the engine mounts at this point, since the engine is bare.. (I got oem MB from the dealership ones)DSC_1038.JPG

My guy couldn't not find where this chain guide goes. Maybe it was sent by accident?DSC_1047.JPGThe new Bilstein shocks next to the factory 200k+ mile factory shocks. Also got new pads and rotors from the dealership.

DSC_1039.JPG
DSC_1046.JPGI can't recall what spring pads I ordered, but they were more or less same height as the factory ones Installed. We will get the car on the ground and see what needs tweaking.







DSC_1041.JPG
The BBS wheels clear better than the Lorinsers, but the rub a bump on the caliper ever so slightly, so i asked my friend to ground it down and paint my calipers in black after we get the new SA brake lines. (Thanks for the info!!) I'm also thinking of awapping the lips between the lorinsers wheels and the RS's and possibly stretching factory size tires 225/55-16 tires..
 

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Looks great! The timing cover can be difficult to re-install, there are stories of people fighting with it for hours. Don't damage the head gasket... and you'll have to either cut a piece of lower pan gasket, or try to use sealant, since that is now removed in the photos.

The chain rail in your photo has a 615- part number and is incorrect for the M119 engine. If you replaced all the rails shown in the attached diagram, you're all set.

O-rings should be A6219970040 and A0049978048 per EPC screenshot below.

1636638778174.png

1636638925882.png
 

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Looks great! The timing cover can be difficult to re-install, there are stories of people fighting with it for hours. Don't damage the head gasket... and you'll have to either cut a piece of lower pan gasket, or try to use sealant, since that is now removed in the photos.

The chain rail in your photo has a 615- part number and is incorrect for the M119 engine. If you replaced all the rails shown in the attached diagram, you're all set.

O-rings should be A6219970040 and A0049978048 per EPC screenshot below.

View attachment 139965

View attachment 139967
Thanks!

I'm here at the dealership and will ask about that last remaining guide that is attached to the back of the front cover.

And hopefully they have the o rings, or can get them quickly!
 
Got the four orings ordered, and we found the last guide!
IMG_20211111_132152_01.jpg
IMG_20211111_131110_01.jpg


You guys saw what subframe mounta i had purchased, are there only three mounts or are there four? I think I'm missing the front ones.
IMG_20211111_131505_01.jpg
 

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